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Audi TT Key Fob Battery Replacement (2000 - 2006)

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CR2032 Coin Battery 🪙 you need: amzn.to/3GkOJnN
CR1632 Coin Battery 🪙 you need: amzn.to/38I2SPH
How to replace the battery in this key fob for the Audi TT 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 models.
► See the full guide at: fobbattery.com...
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►About FobBattery:
I once had to change my own key fob battery and discovered there was no central resource on key fob batteries. So, I created the FobBattery website. Check out our website for photos, free guides, and a current list of brands we have built out a database of batteries and fobs for. fobbattery.com/

Опубликовано:

23 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 9

@darrensurrey 9 месяцев назад

My TT key was proving annoying. Press the button and very often it didn't do anything. Came across your video so watched it, took apart the fob (it was really, really difficult and I've ruined some of the plastic trying to twist the screwdriver), then realised I didn't have the right battery. So, I put it all back together. And now the buttons work so well!? 🤩Any ideas why?

@user-lu8fr9hv8y 2 месяца назад

Why does mine have 2 battery’s in the fob?

@nonawolf7495 8 месяцев назад

perfect - thank you!

@ralphflores3324 8 месяцев назад

Great video, thanks.

@nicosia2 Год назад

just opened my 2001 keyfob and found two CR 1620s (one on top of the other). Tried replacing with one 1632 and that doesn't work. Tried putting two 1632s in, but they are too thick to close the cover.

@MikeInABQ 7 месяцев назад

One of my fobs has a 2032 but the other has TWO 1620, not 1632. I wonder if the 1620 are thinner than the 1632 so you can double the voltage (and probably cut the batter lifespan in half). At this moment, my fob with the TWO 1620 is not working and my battery tester shows them both to be dead but that could be a mis-reading due to the tester seeming to be designed for 2032 or smaller button cells.

@MikeInABQ 7 месяцев назад

Oh, and the two 1620 in series (stacked) create 6v whereas one 1632 (as any one Lithium batter will be) is only 3v. In garage door openers, people often stack up two batteries in a device that is built for one battery, in order to double the voltage in pursuit of more range. I think that with garage door openers, this generally works because the door openers have a lot of extra space and the part that touches the top side of the top battery is one or more flexible arms that can make good contact over a wider range of battery thickness. In your case, you were going the other way around and reducing from 6v to 3v and it's possible that the fob just won't work on 3v. Not sure why one of my 2 fobs uses a CR2032 at 3v and the other one uses TWO 1620. In all fobs and door openers that are built in this common way, if the little copper arms that are touching the batter when you reassemble the case are not putting consistent pressure on the battery, there could be unreliable results. To fix this, you could bend the little copper arms up away from their base a little more so that they press harder on the battery when you close the case. Note that the last 2 digits of the 4-digit battery configuration number refer to the thickness of the battery, so even if your device could operate on 3 volts, the fact that it is a"32" means it is not as thick as two "20" batteries. So, again, IF your device will work on only 3v, it will still be unreliable or not work at all unless you can make the copper connecting arms press into your battery with enough force to make a consistent connection.