The blocking of the rear fender was a real eye opener for me Peter. Putting a lot of the shape into the panel initially is the easiest option for me. Wheeling the whole panel including the reverse would get me in trouble. Great video again. Thanks
Excellent video Peter, Wonderful how you showed the need to stretch the reverse to take it over and keep control of the flat area going down to the joggle at the same time.. Great example of cause and affect. Amazing how you work the panel in small manageable areas one after the other keeping control of the entire panel the whole time. Very instructive. .Really helps me understand some things I have been doing wrong.
I'm a total amateur but the best piece of advice I ever got was -wheel it where it needs to be wheeled and nowhere else- from Geoff Moss here in the UK, you have said exactly the same, thanks.
Thanks for showing how to create this nice fender. I think many are interested in how you 'moved' extra material from the reverse and out to the edge, this is difficult fully understand for my part. This must be the most detailed how-to video on wheeling I've seen. Credo to the camera man as well - Top quality production!
Unique work of Peter!!! It's a complicated form of detail, but you're just fine. If possible, I would like to see the connection of the two parts of the part into one. Thank you for leading your channel, very informative.
@@ЯрославЛукьянчиков-у9ы I will do more video's in the future , there are some already available on ''vimeo on demand'' for details visit my web site www.handbuilt.net.au
@@Handbuilt1 Peter, you have golden hands, very impressive, a rare skill that is almost lost in our time of high technology!!! Cars of those times were made by the hands of such talented people as you, so they were amazing, they had a soul in them. Thank you very much for the link, I am very interested in watching and studying your work. I would really like to work with you. And most importantly, thank you for hosting the channel!!!!
Loving these videos Peter. Can you elaborate on the 'plunging' on the reverse please? I though hammering the reverse was a no-no, but you looked like you just hammered in a reverse!
Normally one does not stretch the reverse ( the like of... for example E type Jaguar Bonnet) . but in this case it's a different kind of reverse there for it needs to be stretched to make it
With a pneumatic hammer you would get close to the same finish, but you would need to right dies , or it could be done also by hand with tools only, and finish it off with 120 grid sanding paper
@@Handbuilt1 yeh mate that’s how I got where I am. I just started my Resto shop a couple of months ago. Hardest part is trying to find customers with a decent bank account so I can do the quality of work I want to produce
Some steel (depending on the temper ) is easier than hard tempered ally , 5000 series ally is OK ,...... I use 5005 H / 34 ( half hard) . ......Steel I use cold rolled CA 3
Beautiful work as always peter just curious i bought one of those e type bonnets a while back for a pretty good price was just wondering what there worth in good condition i can't seem to find any to get a starting price
All depends on How much you like to pay , new alluminium or steel ones from England , or get one lightly damage and have it repaired , depending on the damage you would be looking between $ 5000 AU onward
@@Handbuilt1 oh wow I didn't think they were that much I payed $150 for mine about a year ago it just had a big crease i needed to smooth out next to the head light im surprised how thick the steel is on them actually it was pretty tough to get out thanks for the reply
