For you foreigners who are wondering why he's on his knees, he's using a surf life saving board that Australian beach lifeguards use, it's designed for you to use your knees and they are really nice too paddle on. It's not impossible to stand up on but it's not recommended
Pretty intense how big wave surfers use water and breath holding training that militaries use on their most elite forces. These surfers do all that just so they can ride a wave. Truly admirable they put so much effort into their passion. They also show amazing respect for water.
Surferskater Fanatic It is not a kneel board it is called a clubbie board or rescue board it is what life savers use they have knee pads on it but are not 100% made for knee use you can paddle and arch waves on your belly if you want but not these waves
Did anyone else notice that the wave he "made" was neither a set wave nor was well covered by the video cameras? Like it wasn't worthy, but lent itself to the meta message of the snack bar video theme. I give him credit not on making that wave, but on the one he didn't make.
I am so stocked right now. Injured ten years ago skating, a divorce, and struggling to become successful. I started going back to the water. My body is going through a lot muscular pain. I am training for winter. I want that wave! I miss home in the water and doing my thing on the line up. I can't wait for my big session, but I want to do it right. To all the fellas, keep surfing. As my native people would say: "Las olas son Pura Vida!" Surfing makes me exceptional man.
This reminds me of Dean Mercer taking on HUGE Sandon Point, right out off the Blue hole, on his clubby board after paddling a couple of kms from Thirroul beach . That guy was nuts.
Nazares, while huge seems to break at the top and more of a roller. Most I mean,I have seen some nice barrels on videos,but most just peak at the top. Either way I wouldn't be even thinking of trying both
@The Good Guy yes, for trying and living his dream. If they filmed more, say for the next couple of months, they would see total improvement. It shows others that the goal is not out of reach for anyone.
4:41 when he surfaced I would've been a lot more out of breath than that lol Either he's ridiculously fit or they weren't actually wrestling that long, probably both
I had eaten some medicated pecan pie about 45 minutes before I started watching this. Came to and thought I was watching a paralyzed man surfing shipsterns but it was just a kneeboarder in a kayak
Oh yeah.... I’ve been training to ride a rogue wave in the North Sea. I let me buddy hit me with his car so I could get used to worst possible thing that could happen to me.
What you guys need is a compressed scuba air cartridge. You have vests with a carbon dioxide cartridge that will inflate pockets in the vest when you pull the tab. Use breathable air to inflate a pocket, with a tube hooked up to the inflated pocket, pull that tube to open the "out" or air escape valve, and breathe. One good breath could make things a lot more comfortable while you're held under.
that would be quite dangerous IMO... the changing water pressure with depth and velocity in and around the wave could result in lung over-expansion. Ie, if a full breath was taken at 3m depth and the surfer then floated to the surface, the air volume would increase by 30%. Ruptured lungs are not a good time!
@@tassiefreedivers4024 --- At least one person read my comment! From what I have gathered about scuba, 3m or 9ft is not going to make an appreciable difference in lung pressure, and breathe can be exhaled on ascent if it's uncomfortable. I'm not suggestion a direct intake of compressed breathable air from a cartridge (that might blow out a lung), just a tube to an uncompressed air pocket in the vest a surfer caught under a wave could take a suck from, good for another minute. A problem would be getting hold of it while getting rolled and smashed, but a hand close to the chest, and with the strength of a surfer, it's not impossible.
@@davesmith5656 i see where you're coming from - the issue with that is that at even at 3m the air will expand by ~30% volume by the time the surfer reaches the surface. And you can't really feel lung overexpansion - when it happens you usually don't even realise until blood starts coming out of your mouth and you feel sick. And when being thrashed about underwater it may be easy to forget to exhale, or not tp take a full breath in the first place...
@@tassiefreedivers4024--- I think I see your point. If someone takes a breath on the surface, dives to 3m, and surfaces, the air in his lungs is still at surface level compression. A breath taken at 3m depth would be at a higher compression. But how do scuba divers handle their compressed air, when surfacing? (To be humorous, "Just take a half of a breath", as you stated. I'm not expecting you to take time to go into an explanation of scuba science. I see what you're saying.) I just thought that if someone is literally dying for air ... heck, I'd breathe sewer-smelling air, and worry about after-effects later. The guy who got caught under by three successive waves (at Nazare, IIRC) did survive, but he was coughing up blood when they finally managed to rescue him floating to the surface. I think it was the trauma / stress of will negating the body's mandate to inhale, that tore lung tissue, maybe the vacuum effect caused by the diaphragm. Emergency medical got him stabilized.
At first I thought this guy was going to Kayak Shippies and I got really excited. Then I realized he was a Kneeboarder. LOL! The best part was how hyped this was.. I thought at least with all the training and cinematic music he was going to surf big shippies only to fast forward with him surfing an average wave.
Um... That wave is big it’s a knee board so you are not suppose to stand up that’s why there this thing invented called a surf board made to make you stand up.
I went for a trip to cable beach in broom WA and brang my inflatable Stand up paddle board and had a go and the swell was HUGE that day so I got wiped out by the waves. My Sup was not attached to me nether was my paddle so I got dumped by a 2-meter wave I tried to get back up the top but was hit in the head with by board the my paddle that almost cut me :(.
