I always remove the master cylinder cover to relieve pressue from the system to compress the caliper piston. Just make sure it does'nt overflow. no need to open the bleeder and the possibility of air getting in the system.
Over 90% of the time you can get away without loosening the bleeder screw. They can be really tricky to loosen anyway. The best practice is to loosen the cap on the reservoir in the engine compartment and loosen the bleeder when pushing the calipers in. This accomplishes four things: 1) You do NOT have to bleed the brakes. Gravity supplies the pressure to keep air from entering the caliper. 2) It makes it easier to push the caliper in 3) Moisture and sediment settle at the lowest points in the brake system. Removing some of this bad brake fluid at brake changes keeps the system cleaner. 4) Without loosening the bleeder, that bad fluid gets forced into the ABS module. This can cause a malfunction there if sediment enters the accumulator or clogs a passage
I bleed the system first then actually change my breaks. That way I reduce the risk of break fluid getting on my new parts and don't have to worry about pushing dirty fluid around in the system when I compress the cylinder. Brake fluid is cheap and bleeding a system is actually pretty easy as long as your patient.
It's a good idea to leave the old pad in front of the piston when using a c-clamp to force the piston back. This protects the piston and the cylinder from being damaged. I'm surprised at Autozone for not doing this.
Great Question! Answer: Reservoir Overflow... Remember, the brake pads wear down, thus requiring additional fluid added to the reservoir. Fresh Pads require the caliper piston to be pushed FURTHER apart, thus pushing EXTRA fluid back in to the reservoir. Watch the reservoir level and suction any out before it overflows all over your engine compartment.
Good basic vid, however, when I do a job like this in my garage the bolts won't come loose, I can't reach the bolts with my ratchet, the rotor is fused on , the torque wrench is at an odd angle, the caliper is seized, etc etc. I like to see videos where everything goes wrong and how a professional deals with it. But I do like Autozone and usually go there first.
I've been using autozone parts for years with no problems at all. If you buy the brakes with the lifetime warranty, you will never pay for them again. I just take them off, take them back and get a new set no questions asked and no hassle what so ever.
Opening the bleeder is recommended. It inhibits old, dirty brake fluid from bringing forced into the system. It will be replaced with clean, fresh fluid instead when you top off the master cylinder and subsequently pump the brakes. Naturally, the technique is key to ensuring that you do not permit air to enter the brake line. Look at Tip Number 8! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xJDOuZzEAQc.html
What causes the front brakes to develop a shimmy? I replaced pads and rotors on a 2001 accord and after 16000 miles, it starts to develop a shimmy when braking. I applied lubricant to the pins and back of the pads and thought that would prevent that from occurring. Thanks for the video! By the way, car is at 280,000 miles
you should use the old pad or a block of wood to put in between the C clamp and the piston when retracting it into its bore. It will help prevent any damage or scores the c clamp may make on the piston. Just a good rule to follow. Also i was taught you didn't have to open the bleeder screw as long as you open the master cylinder fill hole at the top and made sure not to over fill the cylinder.
If the bleeder screw is loosened you will have to bleed the system air will enter and the brakes will not work correctly. When the piston is pushed back into the bore the fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder and no bleeding will have to be done.
if you dont open bleeder when pushing pistons back in, remove some fluid from resovoir or its going to leak out and make a mess in engine compartment, brake fluid eats paint and also makes surfaces hard to paint afterwards so be careful. I always put clear vinyl tubing on bleeder and direct into a catch bottle
+FCFordLord Being changing brake pads for over a decade now and have never needed to open the bleeder. You can prevent it spilling over by removing some fluid from the reservoir. If you need to bleed the brakes you can do it after the brake pads have been changed.
How do you induce air into a closed brake fluid system by compressing the pistons? Every time you brake, the pistons move in and out. Very little fluid is displaced in the closed system by compressing the pistons. And the small amount that is displaced is temporarily accumulated back into the fill reservoir. Bleeding the system can create more problems. For rotors and/or pad replacement, I've never had to bleed the system. Just my opinion.
There are tire shops that don't use torque wrenches and I have seen this.Use torque stick on the impact.Look at some of the factory lug nuts,cheap chrome caps.I found this out from someone that works at a GM plant,GM pays a quarter each for the chrome cap lug nuts and dealerships sell them $3.00 a piece
@@juancamberosg.593 not at all, there is a difference between thinking you can do it and miss a step and knowing what you're doing where you can breeze through it..this video doesn't specify the car and model and these videos always miss a step..
+i have always used the c-clamp method of pushing the caliper back in without bleeding ..And I always keep the brake cap on the resevour... keeping it unessary to bleed the brakes...And remembering to pump the brakes before moving the vehicle after cclamping it..."NO BRAKES"
+kids fun 2016 Of course you can keep your rotors but you must push the caliper pistons back in. If you don't, the new pads will cause the caliper to not fit back down over the rotor.
Lol , dude took a few runs at that cal bracket bolt before filming ! Never seen one come off like that , usually involves some penetrating oil n a tourqe bar
hi Eric , is it necessary to release brake fluid value to let small amount of brake fluid to escape in order to push caliper piston back or it is OK to just use C Clamp to just push the caliper piston without releasing brake value, which method is right even for front or rear brake pads replacement? thanks
@mcmaddie This might be a dumb question, but please forgive me, I'm a beginner and wanna learn tips and tricks: Can I not remove the Bleeder Valve when pressing the Piston back in EVERY time, or after a certain amount of times of changing the Brake Disks/Pads, do I need to remove the Bleeder Valve? Or do I ONLY remove the Bleeder Valve after I've added Brake Fluid the time before?
i if you have abs breaks do you have to disconnect the abs fuse or battery terminals when pushing back the break pads as i was told if you don't it could effect the computer
@fredmar56 I noticed error in my first comment. Or course it's possible to have overflow if the brake fluid has been changed and brake fluid reservoir has been filled too full. So in that case you might need to open the bleeder valve when pressing the piston in. And you should change brake fluid more often than you need to change your brake pads/disks.
Ignore the comment left by tronik kino. You must open the brake bleeder in any car with ABS in order for you to avoid a $2500 repair. Here's why. Brake fluid (DOT 3 & 4) is a hygroscopic fluid which means it absorbs water. Water is denser than brake fluid so it will sit at the bottom of your brake system which is your calipers or wheel cylinders. Since most calipers/wheel cylinders are made of iron they will start to rust with this water. So now you have rusty watery brake fluid around your calipers and when you force this back into your brake system you force this fluid through something called an ABS module which is filled with little solenoid valves. Now solenoids generate a magnetic field to operate. Iron loves magnetic fields so all those rust flakes you just pushed next to those solenoids are seizing those solenoids up. When these solenoids become seized an ABS warning light comes on and you now have no ABS. To get this fixed your looking at a new ABS module which most of the time is a dealership only item and it may run you around $500 - $2000 in the part alone. So take the extra effort and crack your bleed screw or take it to a mechanic who knows what they're doing..
***** Thanks for the explanation Rick! So I can do it my way as i never work on cars with ABS but only classics :-), so no problem to push it back in. but this rust story makes me think that even for classics it would be better to plead then .
Frank Coineno Hi Frank ignore always the comment left by Rick Diesel God what he wrote is another story and wrong. In this case you don´t need to open the brake bleeder with car with ABS or without ABS. why? because it is a close system and if you open it the fluid absorbs water. this makes sense in this case .The truth is, if you leave this close system open for a long time one or two days it absorbs water because the system is open. this close system absorbs water after 2 years or more through the breakefluidhose the weak point in cars. look in repair manual made by car factories. You will never find his explanation in this case. The best practice is to loosen the cap on the reservoir in the engine compartment only to make the job easier.I am wondering why Autozone make such videos!!! with regards a mechatronic master and a mechanic engineer ditronik
tronik kino I don't open the bleeder... but... The real reasons why you should open the bleeder are: - So you don't damage the piston seal when you push it back. - To avoid dirty fluid into the hydraulic control unit. (avoid clog) Other reasons are over expansion of hoses. flex or metal. if the brake lines in a car are rusted they can break when you push the piston back with the bleeder closed.... if you open the bleeder you lessen the chance they will break... I still take the chance and don't open the bleeder because it can break then have fun drilling the caliper.. probably better to open the bleeder
He opens the bleeder screw because it is easier to push the piston back into the bore. The problem is air will enter the system. The brakes will not work correctly. He is using the correct tool a C clamp,just use a little extra muscle.
Hi i have camry if for some reason while putting back the sliding pin bolt original pin bolt rubber on the bottom accidentally reversed it what will happened? thanks :)
It's strange that one of the slider pins has a rubber ring on it while the other doesn't. I'm pretty sure the slider pin with the ring was on the bottom of the bracket. I replaced them how they were previously done. Although, that doesn't mean that whoever worked on them before put the pins in correctly. (I bought my Camry used.) The worst that will probably happen is that the pads will wear unevenly. Also, in my case, both slider pins without the rubber ring froze up in the bracket. Well, I'm assuming they didn't have the rubber ring. I couldn't remove them to verify. If this is the case, I don't know why they don't put the rubber ring on all four pins.
I'm trying to change my pads and rotors for the first time. I can NOT get the freaking caliper slide bolts to loosen. Is it okay to use something like WD40 to loosen them? Sorry, I'm kind of a noob at this.
I've had this happen several times and had to replace the bracket. They usually cost around $15 or $20. If they don't come with the slide pins and rubber boots, you'll have to buy the kits for that. That will be about another $15.
all that lubrication is just a looking good and feeling good about your job. you know that roads are so nasty and can splash mud, dirt, and everything you can imagine on the calipers. plus you take it to the carwash and spray wheel cleaner, tire cleaner, high pressure soap and rinse. so imagine where that lubrication goes. by the time your brake pads look corroded, you need new ones already.
quicker isnt always the best, i'd spend the extra few seconds and use the wrench, its better than stressing your studs and stripping them or worse, warping your rotor via excess tightening force applied to the rotor hat.....
well, yeah, stacking in a couple of old pads, and wedging them apart using a screw driver just might work, but then AutoZone wouldn't be able to sell you a c-clamp you will probably never use again... { I like the presentation pretty much over all, actually.}
wrong, wrong, wrong, clean mating surfaces,1.clean rotor to hub surfaces.2.CLEAN then lubricate caliper brackets. never push caliper piston in without putting something across the piston,unless you want to buy new caliper when you break the inside out.
no dude, german torque spec is getting down to the last .0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001 inch pound of torque (pretty much exact)
No it is not, any abs car has an abs valve with ball or poppet valves, pushing fluid in the opposite direction can harm these expensive valves, use an extra 10 seconds and open that bleeder. Working in your 30 year old dodge is not the same now a days bud.
***** being electronic does not mean it is "electronic" solenoids control the valves, the operation os still mechanical just like anything else, electric over mechanic. These small valves and springs will get damaged if fluid goes in backwards eventually.
You really should just flush your brake fluid first and then loosen the cap on the reservoir while you are compressing the cylinder. That way you wont have to worry about pushing dirty old fluid or air bubbles around in the system and chances are unless you are just drive hard it is well past time to flush the fluid anyway by the time you change your brakes.
Thats an arsey way to do the job innit? you dont have to bleed the caliper when you force the piston back into it, just open the resevoir cap first then syringe out the build up of excess brake fluid back to the right level, your just risking air getting into the system, The shaft of a hammer is good enough to push the piston back into its bore. Copper grease is best for brake components.
correct no need to open the system, using a c clamp or vicegrip clamp force the plunger back and install the pads.been doing it that way since I was 12...46 years ago.
Waste of brake fluid opening the bleeder valve when pressing the piston back in. Unless you've added brake fluid after installing new brake disks/pads last time there is enough room to fluid go back to reservoir without overflow.
It is like the wheelbearing manufacturers are liars,can't do damage to a wheelbearing when tightening the axle nut with an impact.Basically can't overtighten this this nut.There are spots there are no way to get a torque wrench in.With a torque wrench,can overtighten a fastner you can't catch right away.That is one reason why there are these electronic versions that can sense this,red means it is overtorqued and green is good.
+anthony tomasiello dude... ANYTHING related to working on a car can be dangerous, even a simple oil change... the vehicle could fall off the jack stand and get you hurt... besides, do you know how hot a motor gets when you're driving? a lot hotter than a drop light bulb... If what you are saying is true, the vehicle should ignite into flames as soon as it reaches proper operation temp...
