I've been doing my own basic brake maintenance my whole life, but im having trouble with the full custom system I installed on the hotrod im building. There was lots of bits of usefull info throughout this video that im glad I learned. Thank you. Most people dont give so much detail, they just tell you about whatever idea they're displaying. My car goes real fast, i really want it to stop. I don't wanna be the guy from that viral video, smashing his 800hp build on the first drive because the brakes went out...
This video reminded me of an old Freightshaker Tri-axle dump we bought at auction. It would hardly stop empty, it would have been a death trap loaded. The length adjustment was way off. Only putting 50 PSI to the chambers. A little adjustment and it would damn near put you through the windshield.
Just a thought with race car brakes being a BIG safety device, setting up authorized installers in various parts of the country? Installers properly trained to install TBM brakes.
I wouldn’t bother calling unless you have tbm brakes. I called today and was told to call the manufacturer of my calipers to see what they recommended. After that, then call back and order a master cylinder. Thanks dalton. It makes sense but the video left me with the impression that they would be able to recommend and get me into the master cylinder that I needed.
We are happy to help, but we don’t have information on piston size (even in the same caliper companies make different piston sizes), and we don’t want to cause a liability issue without having ability to be responsible for the brakes being operated
So why does the Wilwood have that hole connecting the two reservoirs? When mounted in a GM power application the fluid in the front flows into the back. WTH.
Here’s what I wanna know, how are you guy’s reading my mind!!! Lol. I’m looking to convert my car to manual brakes. And then this video popped up!!! 😮😅
Why does no one ever mention the bigger the master cylinder bore, the less the pressure. You’re trading volume for pressure ,so peddle ratio needs to be changed for this too
Master cylinder push rod is actually pretty simple. If you can put the pin in at the pedal without the aide of a torch or sledgehammer you have the length just right.
And you should probably warn people about what happens if the brake Rod is too short or the pedal doesn't have a stop as it retracts and pulls the rod completely out of the master cylinder
The wilwood style master cylinder mechanically retains the pushrod so that is not possible in that case. Most master cylinders have an retaining oring that prevents this as well. If a kit doesn’t have a retaining function for the pushrod it can definitely be dangerous
@MotionRaceworksOfficial Yeah I got one of those years ago. Had the pushrod fall out and have no brakes then another if the adjustment was a little tighter it would fall out of the pocket and jam outside of the cup and drag the brakes. The non wilwood master cylinder
Buying less than a complete kit from a brake manufacturer is nuts - unless you are using bog standard known parts. There are just too many variables for the average home builder to get such a critical system right without some professional assistance. I was a licensed A&P mechanic. I understand hydraulic braking principles. But there is no way I would just wing it and build my own brakes. Not when my life depended on it.
The purpose of these video’s is the information inside them not the perfection of the editing and the quality. If doug cared about the quality of the video he wouldn’t be doing it in the shop with a bunch of cnc machines running in the background. Be happy they are sharing their knowledge with potentially 100’s of thousands of non paying customers.
Ridley me this. Currently working on 65 Mustang with a SSBC 4 wheel disk kit, which I found...lacking in many ways. On the third MC now, bench bled, modified by having to open up mounting holes. This one bled perfectly in the vice, showing completely different characteristics than the other two. Had to cut off 3/16 off the booster push rod after running the measurements. After bleeding the entire system several times, I did get a reasonably good pedal feel at about 1 1/2 in down. However, when the engine is running, the pedal goes pretty much to the floor, and the breaking power is shit. I'm at the end of my experience and knowledge. Any ideas?
I think that you are way overthrowing this video... If the pedal is tight and no air is in it then you have no problem. It's all in the feel of the brake pedal
