AVOID Electrical Issues! - Battery Terminal to Fuse Length EXPLAINED - Car Audio

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When you install an aftermarket amplifier you need to run a power wire from the vehicle's positive battery terminal to the amplifier. Somewhere along this wire you must include an inline fuse in order to properly protect the wire. A commonly used suggestion is to keep the fuse "within 18 inches of the battery", but is this actually the best suggestion? Why does the fuse need to be close to the battery anyhow? Let's dive in!
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26 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 77

@pocket5s1 6 дней назад

fun fact, that 18" number came from competition rules way back in the day. it is an entirely arbitrary number. It just sounded like a good idea to the guy that wrote the rule. Yes the closer the better, but that 18" gave enough room for different circumstances.

@flexart174 5 дней назад

@@pocket5s1 fun fact the 18" rule was established in the mecp certification book. Mecp was started in 1991

@chuckjimenez5511 5 дней назад

@@flexart174 Fun fact, those competitions and rules were happening in the 1980’s.

@ph33lix 6 дней назад

Excellent point made at 2:50. The whole point of the guidelines (such as ABYC E-11.10.1.1.1) is to place the overcurrent protection device as close as practically possible to the power source to protect the rest of the wire run, and the maritime ABYC's (American Boat and Yacht Council) recommendation of no more than 7" is so strict since having a boat fire while out at sea can be an extremely life-endangering event. In the maritime industry, Blue Sea Systems has a product called MRBF (Marine Rated Battery Fuse) Terminal Fuse Blocks, part numbers 5191 and 2151, that make it such that the terminal you bolt your cable's lug to is itself fused, ensuring the whole cable run itself is protected. The fuse options range from 30A - 300A. The only drawback would be that you'll need a standard battery post to marine style battery stud adapter (or use marine deep cycle batteries that already have threaded stud connections), and you'll have to crimp on lugs to the cable before connecting it to the MRBF. This makes for a very robust setup that should be impervious to long term vibration exposure (either in a boat's engine room with a big diesel motor, or in a high SPL competition vehicle).

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

Preach it Mark! I'm telling people the same stuff all the time. Now I'm going to send them to this video to save myself time. Lol The only thing I want to add is that the fuse holder under the hood should be a waterproof or marine rated holder. That will ensure years and years of reliable service.

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

So glad both my batteries are in trunk, short runs are so nice to deal with. I have 300 amp fuse at alternator in front, another 300 right before battery +, another 300 after battery +, another 300 after isolator to secondary battery +. A 150 from battery + to sub amp, a 80 amp after distro on amp board for 4 channel amp for door speakers and a 40 amp after distro before tweeters amp. Relay and fuse for DSP and remote. So many fuses!

@ShibbyImpalaShibby 6 дней назад

My latest build has a battery in the trunk too. Smart plan for sure.

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

@@ShibbyImpalaShibby I had a hell of a time trying to figure out how to house my xs d3400. First barely room for it and Iwasn't going to pay 100 for a cheap xs mount or 200+ for their trays. Unbelievably Amazon had a perfect fit battery tray with gun sling type belt to secure and I self tapped it into the half boardwood/carpet door that exposes my spare tire area and starter battery. $10. Drilled a 3" hole for running power and ground wires between each battery and found a large grommet to make it look great. Almost a high doing this I might do installs on the side I think.

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

I'm assuming all of the 300 amp fuses are to protect a 1/0 size wire?

@ScottGunMag69 23 часа назад

Thanks, it’s basically common sense which isn’t always common. I may not ever do another audio system, but regardless, I enjoy learning from your channel. Thanks!

@centralcoaster33 6 дней назад

My car has a positive terminal with a few large fuses and potential mounting points in there. Even my short section is protected 👍

@jaredwoodward919 6 дней назад

I've always make a bracket that if possible straight off one of the battery tie down brackets/strap then keep the first part of the power supply lead as short as possible between the battery terminal and the major fuse for the whole system. Then always secure the cable after that fuse with stand off cable tie mounts if possible every 6 inches. Where the cable passes through bodywork or trim panels use an appropriate rubber grommet. I've been doing this since the mid 90's and have never expirienced any cable failures/ shorts.

@jdmjesus6103 2 дня назад

Safe routing and mounting is more important than how short it is. If you need to go a bit longer to avoid sharp or hot things, then do it. It is a good rule though. Extra sleeving on the un fused section is always good too.

@richeygoldberg8549 6 дней назад

Who decided on 18"? Why not 16" or 20"? The hard limit of 18" has always been a kind of made up number. You need to be as short as possible when taking the mounting location of the fuse in to consideration AND any objects that could damage the wire and short out.

@pauloparranao5534 5 дней назад

Those mosconi...🤩🤩🤩🤩 Nice topic an very importat. Tanks.

@trin929 6 дней назад

As a consideration, why not use one of KnuKonceptz fused battery terminals instead of a block fuse in line?

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

Because many of us need to connect a lot more than two connections to our positive.

@ripler16 3 дня назад

Another thing a lot of don't understand is that all wire is not constructed the same and even though the gauge may be the same the current capacities can be different.

@FOXCRF450RIDER 6 дней назад

Mounting the battery and fuse holder to the same part, as in bracket or tube is ideal. That way they vibrate together.

@TheMustachioedJames 6 дней назад

One more (minor) consideration, I try to keep the run to the inline fuse as short as possible, but you should also make it long enough to make the bends it needs to make without stressing. That extra inch or two you cut away does no one any good if you have your cable bent in a hairpin that stresses your compression fit terminal lug and/or your fuse terminal.

@J2A61 6 дней назад

18” is a lot in my opinion. The shorter you can brake that circuit the safer you car is. Some times fuses fail and terminals get hot and can go unnoticed until the point of failure the less unprotected the greater the risk of fire

@DayNNyteDJs 2 дня назад

Now I have to go look.

@Luminous.Dynamics 6 дней назад

What about a fuse holder that has one end that bolts directly to the battery terminal? Like with a copper lug straight to batt from fuse holder, no wire on that side

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

Sure, that's a great idea. Those type of fuses are called MRBF.

@motoboy37 6 дней назад

I watched quite a few of your vids for guidance in installing my basic system of a 8" powered sub, 4x50W compact amp, and four door speakers. I've heard the 18" rule from many sources. To me, it seems that 18" is an arbitrary distance. What are the calculations showing that 18" should be the maximum distance from the battery? Why not 12", 20", 27.3", 74mm, etc? Thank you for your professional and informative videos!

@renaissanceman7145 6 дней назад

In rhe video Mark said it should be "as short as possible". IMO you should make "as short as possible" the maximum length. As Mark pointed out, you can (and absolutely should) make a bracket for the fuse holder/circuit breaker that puts it inches away from the battery terminal. Why 18" for a maximum between battery and fuse? Who knows? My assumption is, some believe a number must exist and 18" wound up being the number or 18" should be plenty to reach the nearest flat spot in the average car where a fuse holder/circuit breaker could be mounted because newbies don't think about making brackets. I can't say with 100% certainty that no one has tried to claim the 18" max is due to electrical factors like voltage drop or whatever (I'll be shocked if no one replies to tell me how wrong I am and blah, blah, blaaaahhh), but, I am certain no calculations of any kind went into the 18" "rule". So, new rule, As Short As Possible. 🤏 All the best.

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

It is arbitrary.

@LilYeshua 6 дней назад

Yeah I kept fused positive wire hard mounted to a under hood panel close to the battery plus I ran a separate battery to body ground wire near the battery as well so that all that current wouldn't go through the engine to body ground and other grounds. I ran 1 gauge power and ground wires. As a side note,one time I had temporarily disconnected the separate amp ground I for mentioned until i noticed that the stereo system wasn't working right and sounded crummy. As a result of the disconnected wire the amp ground was now going through the 10 gauge engine to body ground that had a disconnect socket connector on it. The insulation was melted off of the 10 gauge wire so i repaired that and refastened my 1 gauge battery to body ground. Lesson learned

@cpzmelbs 3 дня назад

How was the amp grounded through a random wire after disconnecting the amps ground input?

@LilYeshua 3 дня назад

@@cpzmelbs if you're replying to my comment,the amps were mounted in a wooden cassette style enclosure I built for my stereo build and sat on the cargo floor behind the rear seat so the amps ground was a one gauge ground wire from the amps ground terminal to the body behind the rear seat. I had fused power and ground distribution blocks in the amps enclosure(3 amps). That ground path was going through the engine to firewall ground wire(10 gauge). Apparently I had a brain fart when I replaced the car battery and didn't think that I needed to hook up that shorty one gauge battery to body ground next to the battery. My system was 700 watts RMS

@Sweetaccord 6 дней назад

Never liked the fuse with set screws that grind into a wire. Even adding a wrap or other. Best are ring terminal style fues.

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

Maybe try solding the wire strands end before you screw it down, that's how it's supposed to be done. Love set screw inline fuse holders! So solder end, brush on liquid tape and screw it down. I only use rings if I have to, usually at a smaller amps power/ground and speaker connections. Even most of the ring type terminals I use has set screws, so much simpler and cleaner.

@jeremiahsmith6689 6 дней назад

an odd issue I had with the car in my thumbnail I had to replace my front shocks the old shock shot apart when I took the top mount bolts off shock oil everywhere. I get the shock replaced put my tools in my trunk the my 12 packs of soda I drive 3 miles and my cab fills up with smoke! I thought It was my shock oil burning off my engine, It was my brake light wire shorted out by the soda cans first burning off the wire insulation then my carpet. The fuse never blew?

@tpiguy 5 дней назад

I have seen people make the mistake of adding a second battery or capacitor for their system and not adding a second fuse at that power source.

@ch3ncerpau148 6 дней назад

Great video! Do the same rules apply to distribution blocks? My shop owner insists that you don't need a fuse at the distribution block because the main fuse protects the whole thing, but that doesn't make sense to me. TIA!

@CarAudioFabrication 6 дней назад

It depends... if there is a step down in power wire size, yes you likely need a fuse as the smaller wire probably can't handle as much current as the larger fuse feeding the whole system. I talk about this more in my electrical system design videos - www.youtube.com/@CarAudioFabrication/search?query=electrical

@dracula3811 6 дней назад

@@CarAudioFabrication imho, this is similar to house electrical systems. You have a main breaker protecting the main wires. Then at the distribution system (panel), you have a bunch of different sized breakers protecting different sized wiring going to different areas of the house. So for car audio, you'll have a main fuse protecting the main wire going to the distribution block. After that, you'll have smaller fuses protecting the smaller power wires going to the different components of your system. Is that remotely accurate or am I way off?

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

you need a fuse after the distro block. So say you're sending a 4 gauge from battery to distro on amp board and it splits into two 8 gauges going to separate amps power, you'd fuse between distro and amps, two different fuses in this scenario. The 4 gauge coming from battery + wouldn't need to fused unless it's a long run. say a 1/0 from battery + going directly into amp then that would need to always be fused no matter the length from battery to amp power.

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

@@dracula3811pretty much although no need for fuse between battery and distro, especially if you're using a fused distro, the fuses come after the distro before the amps. Maybe Mark will say any length from battery + needs to be fused to protect wire therefore protecting from shorts IDK.

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

@@dracula3811 That's spot on. 👍

@chicagorc3967 23 часа назад

Quick tip for people, DONT put your fuse block under your seat, hidden in a spot you cant see or somewhere questionable. ALWAYS put it out in clear view for ease of being seen and also if it burns it doesn't set your car on fire. If its tucked in between somewhere you may have a bad day😂

@n8_vel868 6 дней назад

Off sorta topic question. How can I isolate my amps ground so it's not being interfered with other car electronics? I've been getting high pitched sounds from my led ambient lights and the ECU of my car, wanna find the simplest way to isolate both my sub and full range amp. Appreciate the help with these videos👍

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

No need to isolate. One, get a ground block so multiple connections can be made. Two, secure that block to the chassis but make sure that spot is good, I use a digi multi meter to find a good ground spot. Three, be sure to ground your battery/batteries to that same ground block. Very important. No interference no unwanted noise. JL Audio suggests the same, they call it double grounding or something like that.

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

LEDs use a pwm signal to control their brightness and it seems whatever LED controller you're using does not have proper noise suppression filters in it.

@gorb5102 6 дней назад

Wonder when they are going to come up with an integrated fuse right in the battery terminal

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

No real point to.

@Technotranceism 6 дней назад

They have, but they could potentially create a better version.

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

Most vehicles built in the last 10 to 15 years already have that. If you mean an aftermarket supplier, it wouldn't be practical to do it because there's all kinds of different battery terminals and space around those terminals. The closest thing to it right now would be an mrbf style fuse.

@jonntischnabel 6 дней назад

Hi, im about to do an amp installation. The manual that came with the amp said it needs a 40 amp fuse, and i bought 4 metres of cable from an electrical supplier (in the uk). The cable is rated to 50 amps. Is this okay?

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

If the entire length of 4 m is rated for 50 amps, then you should be fine. Also keep in mind that most of the time you're not going to be drawing 40 amps.

@marklashta814 6 дней назад

Do the wire gages before and after the fuse need to be the same? If i want a flexible wire can I use a 6" run of 4GA, then my fuse, then a 15ft run of 0GA to my 150A amps?

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

Absolutely not. While I wouldn't do either it's less of an issue running a large wire into a smaller one then to amp, but a smaller wire to a larger is a very serious no no. Both are actually just as bad. Plus the fuse ratings would be different. And like Mark says the fuse is to protect the wire from shorting out and starting a fire, it's not there to protect the amp. You can separately fuse the amp but the power wire going to it needs to be the same gauge and the amp rating according to that wires max amp handling rating is.

@roanemccurry232 6 дней назад

Short answer is they should be the same size. Your electrical system should be designed as that: a complete system, not a mixed set of parts. Your main power wire should be sized to carry the load of your amps plus a little extra, and your main fuse at the battery should be sized to protect that wire. In your example, you would probably overheat the short section of #4 wire before blowing a fuse since #4 copper wire is only rated for about 85 amps.

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

I think you would be fine. What Roane McCurry is forgetting is that a shorter piece of wire can handle a lot more current then a longer piece. I would suggest looking at a wire resistance chart. Assuming both wires are copper, both can easily handle 150 amps. It is going to look kind of funny, though.

@strongmaster 6 дней назад

What I never understood is why don't they make fuse holder that has a positive post mounting system. No better way to fuse the system in alot of applications with a fused battery terminal.

@jeremiahsmith6689 6 дней назад

Like on the newer Nissan's and Honda's?

@strongmaster 5 дней назад

@@jeremiahsmith6689like the knuknonceptz terminal. In lots of applications it would work good. Every situation is different, but they seem the way to go if you are able too.

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

Most Vehicles built in the last 10 to 15 years have that. The one style of aftermarket fuse that comes closest would be an mrbf style fuse.

@303nitzubishi4 4 дня назад

18" is ridiculous! An arbitrary rule from the old days of car audio competition. I've always mounted the fuse on a bracket immediately adjacent to the battery and sprayed it with the same anti corrosion coating that you put on the battery terminals. Lead has never been more than 4-6 inches. I cringe when I see a long lead coming off the battery and routed up the fender along the line where the hood could close on it, and the fuse is clear up on the strut tower or something. Incredibly unsafe and inefficient

@TiHKaL42 6 дней назад

Someone need to make a battery terminal block with a built-in fuse.

@JakkiPi 6 дней назад

New cars already have them. They even have a BMS (Battery management system). Now you have to recalibrate your BMS after changing your battery in your vehicle or adding an additional load like aftermarket electronics.

@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv 6 дней назад

Boats have been using them since the 60s.

@jimmcnicolmitchell 6 дней назад

@@JakkiPi or if it's a Ford just disable it.

@stertheder 6 дней назад

The show sponsor, KnuKoncepts, has one. The KonFUSED block has two fuses built in. Not perfect, but its an option.

@mdutchy2582 5 дней назад

Car audio bugs me. Technology just never seems o reach the industry. Why do OEM head units not have a TOS out or HDMI out? Why do after market HU, AMPD DSP continue to use RCA plugs? Really need six runs of RCA in a tight space like a vehicle?? Why does car audio power and ground wires need to be the size of what you see on telephone poles while home audio is a standard plug? How is a small speaker like in soundbar or Bose or Sonos ONE able to fill a living room with decent sound yet we need massive woofers and amps and dsps and in a tiny little vehicle???? Why are vehicle doors not made with an enclosure behind the speaker hole that clears the glass ,instead of being completely hollow door? Car makers spend massive money on RnD and tech on rain sensing wipers yet they cheap out on an a couple cable leads on HU? Who the hell dont know its raining when they driving? The most popular thing to do IN a vehicle is listen to the stereo but its the least technological.

@chriscuthbertson 5 дней назад

Why don't they just build a fuse into the battery terminal?

@JasonWW2000 5 дней назад

They do. Just look at any vehicle made in the last 10 to 15 years. If you mean the aftermarket, there are simply too many different vehicles with different amounts of space around the terminals to design a fuse into the terminal. Probably the closest you can get would be a marine rated fuse called the MRBF style.

@Mostviews111 4 дня назад

I could have sworn in school they said 12.1"

@CarAudioFabrication 4 дня назад

Regardless of the value you have read, or been taught, if you listen in the video you'll learn why it's not the value that is most important

@Mostviews111 4 дня назад

It is very important youre just stating a bunch of personal experiences not actual facts or tests. If youve ever completed a real amp draw test youd know its important.@CarAudioFabrication

@hornox4life 3 дня назад

Are there people that did not understood this? 🙈

@Mostviews111 4 дня назад

Cheap aluminum wire

@CarAudioFabrication 4 дня назад

Wrong. It's silver tinned OFC. Superior to normal OFC as it has marine grade moisture resistance. But people that have never seen actually good car audio wire always get confused so happy to help you learn. 👍