AVOID the ONE MISTAKE Almost EVERYONE Makes With A Brand New Car 

I would be more concerned about the transmission lasting the life of the car than worrying about the engine. Was the trans fluid changed at 500? Also this data only shows bedding in taking place, how do you know removing the oil early hasn't adversely affected the bedding in process by removing wear particles that may assist in the bedding in. Although I suspect no difference in useful engine life by doing this, if it did make a positive difference who is benefiting? The 4th owner? The scrap yard selling the engine? More likely the rubber seals in the engine fail or that is out of date and replacing with an ev or new car makes more sense before the engine wears out if maintained correctly Lastly I wouldn't want to risk affecting the warranty of the car by changing the oil oneself. Just following the manufacturers schedule seems the best course of action.

@AK-pu2gm - I agree with you. Some manufacturers such as Honda and Ford provide guidance to their dealer network to NOT change the FF early on some models. They claim the asperities in the oil actually help accelerate the bedding process.

If you live where there is no snow the 0W16 oil will work fine, as the engine oil with 0W8 is really for cold climates, and for fuel economy, as the engine is not really much changed for the last decade, where it was fine to use 10W30 oil, but the lighter oil relates to a slightly better fuel economy in testing.

@@Godspeed931from the first video, the used oil analysis of the 0W8 FF vs the virgin oil analysis of the 0w16 looked basically identical. not sure there's anything special about the initial FF

@@AK-pu2gm I make my living machining and building engines and transmissions and I've been doing that since the late '70s. The fact is the only thing that needs to bed in is the rings and with today's prelapped rings and modern honing techniques that happens in the first few full-throttle accelerations. The piston ring manufacturer's recommended procedure to seat the rings on a new engine is to warm them up at a then do a few light load accelerations then 3-5 full throttle accelerations each time closing the throttle abruptly to scavenge the cylinder walls clean. That's what we do on the dyno and with engines that didn't see the dyno. After the break in we drop the pan to check the bearings if everything is ok we put in new oil and send it. The fact is every engine shop in the entire world will tell you to change the oil after the first 50 miles or less because that is when the engine sheds huge amounts of large particles that will damage the surfaces. That has been scientifically proven to occur. For maximum engine life on new cars, I recommend you change the oil and filter before the first 50 miles and then again at 500.

Great point!

You can pick up an engine for $800, which is what a lot of idiots on this thread seem to spend on oil every year by changing it every 1000 miles 🤣 10k is perfectly fine.

well not so cheap any more. the price of 5 liters of oil is now north of 60$ in nazi europe.

​@@motleydude73yeah and that new engine is guaranteed to be good and the work to install it is free /s

@@artemzhirkov3295 They often do come with a warranty for a certain time, and install can be done in a few hours, but needing a new engine is extremely rare. You really have to neglect it badly for a long time. Or it has inherent design faults like Hyundai and Kia do.

Excellent comment! Great advice! 👍

the last mobil 1 filter I bought had a few huge metal splinters in those threads. scary

Don't have to worry about that with Mercedes-Benz and chrystler

Great advice. Thank you sir.

Yup - literally changed my oil 10 minutes ago and this is true

Dig ding ding!

Ding ding ding!

After seeing the inside after just about every GM car in my area from the early 20 teens, none of my oil will ever see more than 5k. That's using Amsoil too.

the 10k oil changes are to satisfy the EPA environmental requirements. nothing more nothing less. if you follow the recommended oil changes from the manufacturer you are damaging your engine.

I’m a dealership Mopar parts guy. I’ve been telling customers to ignore that oil change meter for years. After break in normal use I tell customers 5-6k max with synthetic, 3k for spirited or harder use. Change after racing or hard core use like heavy towing. People really need to still treat their cars lightly during the first 500 miles. Especially performance cars. Dodge actually put it in the manual.

LOL, Thanks!

My wife would skin me alive!

I think he should have worn a tux while changing the oil.

yeah no matter how hard i try with lining up the drain pan,, there's always at least a few little splatters here and there.. I don't think in the perhaps hundred maybe even 200 oil changes i've done, there's not been at least a few splatters either on my clothes (always in garage rags) or on the floor.

hahahahaha!

I'm glad this was helpful.

They started having oil burning issues at 100 k plus AFTER they started the 10 k OCI..Forrest Gump is smarter.

Very interesting, thanks for sharing this. I have a question concerning oil in my CTS V. I get the oil changed at the dealership and they use the same Dexos 5w30 that is used in all the other GM cars. But I am concerned that with the high performance engine / heat that the supercharger might be producing if there might be a better choice for this engine. What about the oil that remains in the supercharger when the engine is cut off after driving. I’m just driving normally most of the time, nothing crazy or extreme. Thank you ! Charles Rhea MD

@@charlesrhea6810 Turbos produce a lot of heat, but superchargers shouldn't, they are using power from the belt, not from the exhaust gases, and have a heat exchanger as well.

Nothing new here. I heard all of this 55 years ago when I started working on cars.

No such thing as break in oil except on motorbikes. 40 years and you didn't know that? 🤦🤣

You are right. Break in oil is designed to be changed after a few hundred miles. Even new cars with "normal" oil should be changed within the first few hundred miles.

Some decades ago, let's say in the beginning of the nineties, modern engines did last very long even without doing an early oil change during break in. Manufacturers like Volkswagen did not advise you anymore of cautious driving during the break in period. Before that in the eighties you need to very careful break the engine in. You had a table which told you the max allowed speed for each gear (Germany) up to the first 650 miles. From then up to 1400 miles you could increasingly drive faster but still only if the engine was in operating temperature. Better manufacturing technics together with hi-tech oils have been probably the reason why they got rid of that. So for the average customer there was no need to change your break in oil earlier nor did you have to take care of certain speeds. Current engines seem to not last very long anymore. I believe that very good oil and some basic rules when driving should be sufficent. But I can imagine that more frequent oil changing intervals will have a positive effect on longevity. A friend once told me that you can feel the status of your oil when you take a drop of the dipstick and rub it between thumb and pointer finger. The less smooth it feels the more used it is. Never tried it but I believe that because the log chained molecules become more and more broken and got worn out. Hi quality oil which is above the standards given by the manufacturer could probably do a pretty good job in keeping your engine in good health.

Different oil and different engines now. Technology changes.

@@markleggett3944 No it shouldn't, what a waste. 10k first change is fine.

As a mechanic for 32 years I can attest he's talking nonsense. Absolute joke. Just telling people to waste their money and perfectly good oil. Funny how cars that have only ever been serviced as per manufacturers recommendations run perfectly fine for many decades and hundreds of thousands of miles.

Thanks for sharing your many years of experience opinion. I've been with my current employer for 40 years now, and I know for a fact there is no replacement for experience. I'm gonna change the oil on my new car next weekend. Cheers

@@deanb3033 Unless it's done 10k miles you're just wasting good oil and money.

@@motleydude73 have you been an idiot for all the 32 years or just recently, this video literally shows proof and you think it's wrong? Good job

@@motleydude73so you believe all break in materials are caught in the filter, and there’s in fact no way said materials are sustained in the oil? That’s the purpose of the video- showing proof with the analysis and giving unbiased education. I guess the only discussion would be do those materials matter if left til 10k miles….

Right on!

Right on!

Yea, engines and oils have improved somewhat since 100 years ago 🤣 No break in change is needed these days. I do first change at 10k. Never had oil related problems either. Why on earth would I?

I've drank a bottle of jack daniels with the first oil change in every car I've had. I've never had an engine oil related problem. I think the evidence speaks for itself. :p

​@@motleydude73 How long have you kept your cars doing oil change intervals like that?

@@piperpilot26 About 6 years on average. Current one for 13 years which I bought new in 2010. Been driving since 1989. Back then the normal interval was 6k when mineral oil was the main type.

LOL!

A lot of manufacturers in Europe are now specifying over 20,000 miles. That concerns me. Austin Rover were specifying 12,000 miles or 1 year back in 1980 on the Austin Metro, a vehicle with the old BMC A-Series and a gearbox inside the engine oil sump and sharing the engine oil. It's utter madness here, and has been for some time!

@@cameronwood1994 Agreed!

They last far longer than that. 200, 300,000. 400,000 miles all going by manufacturers recommendations. See them every day. Mines done 170,000 miles 14 years old, only ever had 10k mile changes from new it's perfectly fine. PCV is clean as whistle.

@@motleydude73 are you a mechanic?

Thank you!

I love how tacoma trd owners always love to mention they have a trd 😂. My cousin has a trd pro but just says tacoma

Sound like you care. I Don't@@F82_

Thanks! I'm glad it helped!

Great point!

And with such tight bearing clearances for 0w-8/16 oil it’s also very important to not ever run too thick of a viscosity oil too like for ex a 5w30 or worse yet 10-30 o,5-40,10-40,yikes!/LOL! The motor can obviously handle 16wt viscosity when the oils up to full op temp so if I owned a new car that rec ow-8 or 16 oil & lived in a warmer climate like Fl often using ac loading motor more & creating more heat I’d be running (if they make it ) 5-w-16 or slightly higher cold viscosity oil like 5w-20 & here’s why I say that. In my wife’s when new 2018 RAV4 Toyota wanted us to go 10k miles an oil change inc 1st breakin oil change ,not me! I changed oil & filter at 1k miles & again at 5k miles using m1 0-20 full syn. What alarmed me was (esp having 50yrs Exp rebuilding muscle car motors & restoring car with motor oil & its analysis being a hobby of sorts for me) was that with only 4K miles on the m1 0-20 it was pitch black & had heavy burnt order to it which wasn’t good imho. But I put more m1 0-20 full syn in it for next 5k miles to total 10k mikes on the motor & that oil looked & smelled worse with only 5k miles on it being full m1 oil. This oil seemed as though it could not handle the everyday heat & driving here in ny which aren’t that bad but with a still relatively new low mile motor the oil should not be pitch black smelling burnt. I never liked 0w oil base Wt oil in full syn & thought I better try moving to a 5w-20 m1 fully syn where it has a little better protection against heat & shear having a more robust 5w base oil. Well that did the trick because the next 5k miles on it & it never turned blk looking med tan color with no burnt smell & could still see marks on dipstick thru the oil too. Fast for word to 60k miles today changing m1 5-20 full syn oil & filters every 5K miles and the oil has never been black or smelled burnt at 5k mile changes like the 0-20 did which tells me the 0w base Wt in 0-20 & it’s additive pkg can’t handle the heat etc in 5k miles turning blk & smelling burnt where 5w-20 oil from same mfg never turned blk smelling burnt in same 5k mile oil changes in same motor in same use cond to yrs later now at 60k miles changing the oil & filter every 5k miles. Btw,this car/motor see’s mult trips from ny to fl yearly where the motors pushed hard with ac on at high speeds for hrs at a time & in fl heat in traffic with ac on & the m1 5w-20 never turns blk or smells burnt with now 60k miles on the motor at 5k Mike oil changes,motor doesn’t use or burn any oil in 5k miles too! I know I made the right call/choice to not use the m1 0w base Wt oil in our RAV4 when I saw it turn blk & smell burnt in 4-5k miles where 5w-20 never turns blk or even dark brown & never smells burnt even at 5k miles like the 0-20 always did. Yes oil analysis would have been nice to have but I was in a position where I had to change the oil on the spot with no sample kits at home at the time to collect a sample. But seeing the drastic diff in color of the 2 oils in same mileage with one smelling very burnt & the other not smelling burnt at all looking nice tan color & not blk told me with just going from 0w to 5w that the lighter 0w base Wt oil can’t handle heat & stress as well as the 5w base Wt oil could with i would assume both those oils having basic same additive pkgs past the diff in base/cold W Wt. Keep up the great work you you do on oils educating us on tech etc. Happy motoring! Scott

Even more reasons not to follow a 10k oil changing schedule.

Not necessarily…

It's really sad seeing people go 10-12k miles between oil changes on these cars. You see it all the time checking the service records on these cars. They will be (1+ quart per 1k miles) oil burners by 100 -130k on the odometer.

Thanks for sharing!

That figures.

I can attest to this also for Transmission Fluids. I rebuilt a 2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD and also a 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD both have the same transmissions (4L80E) and the 2006 called for (different) thinner fluid but I put the thicker transmission fluid as was used in the 2003 GMC. For people who say well the clearances are tighter so you need to use the thinner oil. These were the exact same transmission down to every last seal, etc. The USA CAFE standards along with these rip off companies are destroying the vehicles and getting maybe slightly better gas mileage from maybe a little less friction. Hence why they say in the manual for this Toyota to do the first oil change before 10k, if they were honest they would say 500 miles and send this video to every buyer of their product.

@@usapilot78 so true. I don’t know who started this tolerance myth but it’s been proven wrong.

Thanks!

What is a neodymium magnet and where do I put this? Thank you!

@@jb7797 Not sure if this is what he's talking about, but I've been using a FilterMag magnet that wraps around the filter. I cut open a filter after about 5k miles and found a black soot on the inside of the filter where the FilterMag was mounted. It seemed to be very fine particles that had clearly flowed through the filter element.

Harbor Freight $1

Where is the best place to place the magnet?. Thanks JohnB

Thank you!

It's pretty easy to know when the seller of a product says to maintain it less...

I just left UMMC - faculty surgery - research division - 3 years ago after going back to MS after 13 years in MO. Small world.

My pleasure!

In the meantime, check this one out: Fact or Friction? Two Things You Probably DON'T Know About Wear. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qsQYqTM93Nk.html

Right on!

Right on!

My 06 sienna is on 330 and still good

If you use good oil you can achieve that same feat in less oil changes.

Wow! I'm not as fastidious as you are, but I bet your engine is super clean.

Thanks for sharing!

Yes thanks for sharing! Good to know all this great info from everyone, info that has seemed to have been lost in this modern age of consumerism and planned obsolescence.

Not emissions propaganda, it's the cost of ownership to 36k miles (or whatever milage the writer calculates.) The second reason is factory paid maintenance. The millions of dollars extra they'd spend for an extra oil change for 125,000 vehicles if interval is dropped 2500 mi and the vehicle gets 1 or 2 more changes is big reason. I worked corporate for a manufacturer and no emissions consideration was involved. In Europe the story is different.

​@jimmyaber5920 0W-8 has to be emissions nonsense though. So thin that it's ridiculous.

Right on

@@themotoroilgeek 500 miles on a lawnmower is a long time.;) Is the 5 hours recommended on my generator (or other air cooled small engines) ok or should should it be done sooner, especially as most don't have oil filters.

@@glennfrancis9031 LOL, an hour or two is sufficient in that application.

Yes you are right. My BULLDOG zero turn states to change oil after first 5h. THEN every 15-20 or roundabouts thereafter. ALSO my Polaris states there is also break in oil change.

i brought my son a new Honda Crf 125, it does not run an oil filter so i see it absolutely necessary to change out the oil on break in as the metal debris can float around a lot easier. same with most push mowers

Glad to help!

I did my first oil change at 2000 miles. It's a 2023 Honda Civic. NO haggle at all. They never said a word. My first 2 years of oil changes are free. I'll do mine at 4000-mile intervals.

Why tf are they haggling YOU about something YOU want done? Ridiculous. And stop going to dealerships. Places like Meinike are good

if the dealership gives you hard time, GO SOMEWHERE ELSE! A mechanic wouldnt say no to getting paid. Heck, even a "handy man" wouldnt say no to a quick $30 in labor. Glad you resolved, but stick to your guns. You want the car to outlive you if possible haha

@@dbzownz12345 Unless the servicing is logged, he has receipts, or the service book is stamped he will void his new car warranty.

10k changes are perfectly fine unless you're driving it in extreme conditions.

Thanks!

Glad it helped

Thank you sir!

Pointless expense.

Being an avid car true collector of the Vintage Volkswagens and few 911 Porsches; As well as newer Toyota 4Runners, and Tacoma trucks for over 20 years has given the actual professional level of experience and a real sheepskin to know that your facetious lazy comment being just an oxymoron, whereas you MotleyDude are wrong … C’est la vie

​@motleydude73 not true....break in oil has high zinc content and should be changed at the 500mile mark on a new vehicle..after that,normal intervals is fine(5000)

@@mikekopisz1227 That's motorbikes. Absolutely no need. And 10k is fine.

​​@@motleydude73hum ,10k engine replacement or $50 oil change huummmmmmmmm I'm thinking about it.!!!!

Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience.

Same here, the thought of someone else changing my oil horrifies me. Toyota filters and Mobil 1 every 6 months or 4,000 miles for me. Oil is cheap and engines are not!

I don't trust anybody to change my oil and I'm an old man

Me too.@@timferguson8654

Thank you!

5k intervals is absolutely not “obsessive” 😂 im doing every 2500 on my gr corolla and did first oil change at 700 miles.

@@brandon9491 Yea that's ridiculously obsessive. 10k miles is fine.

@@motleydude73 10k on this motor would be considered abusive lmao, toyota recommends 5k but considering im gonna be beating on it ill just do every 2500. Easy enough and only cost me like $35.

@@brandon9491 Toyota generally recommend 10k. I work on them every day. Abusive? It's perfectly fine. You're gaining nothing by doing excessive changes. 5k is recommended for the new GR.

@@motleydude73 yes, that is why i said on my gr corolla 💀 10k interval on this motor is 100% considered abusive

Sounds great!

You should be able to go for a long time with this strategy. Doing it yourself means it will be done properly.

Should keep driving Explorer AWD SUVs. They are excellent esp w/ award winning gen2 -2.3L GTDI engine. Love our '24 Explorer AWD Timberline. Heavily updated '25 version out late this summer. Same proven engines. 💯

It's not 'ridiculous', it's specified after benchtesting the engine and oils for optimum performance and longevity. Good synthetics last a very long time these days. It's shocking some people dump it out after 2000 miles. Honestly, all these home 'mechanics' who think they know better than the engine builders 🤣 I've only ever done manufacturers OCIs never a problem. Why would there be?

That’s why the break down a lot!

@@chriscarbaugh3936 Mostly from electrical issues. Nothing wrong with that OCI.

I'm glad it was helpful!

This seems gets rid of the the metal chips left over from matching. Also should get rid of the assembly lube grease that may contaminate oil filter. I've been doing this a long time on new engines even lawn mowers.

No debate just change it as per manufacturer recommendations not taking some geeks advice on youtube! He's just costing you money and you're wasting good oil.

​@@motleydude73rather waste good oi than a good engine

@@rogerdodrill4733 Why would your engine fail? You americans are uber paranoid about oil it's laughable. Just chuck fresh stuff in every 10k miles and drive it your engine will be fine. In my 32 years in the trade I've yet to see an engine have catastrophic failure because the owner stuck to manufacturer recommendations. They built the engine they kinda know best huh.

Glad it helped!

Give liqui moly molygen a try, full synthetic and improved fuel economy, mobil 1 is notorious for oil burning no matter what car I've had

i no it has motor noise

Thanks for sharing

I've just finished my third oil change on my wife's 22 Cherokee 3.2L Pentastar engine. On my other cars I can use FilterMags on the outside of the metal oil filter can, but on this design engine I can't do that, so I installed a magnetic drain plug at first oil change at around 1300 miles. At 2nd oil change(5k odo), I was a little surprised at how much iron was picked up. At 3rd oil chg(9300 mile odo), I was even more surprised at how much iron dust has been picked up by the mag drain plug. I don't think many people are aware how much fugitive iron dust is circulating in a modern "all aluminum" DOHC engine.

Right on!

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks! We will make some videos about gasoline additives.

I pretty much have to run the Lucas fuel additive / fuel lubricant on my 1991 Nissan Maxima. Not sure if it's because of the terrible factory injectors, or if fuel is just that inconsistent here in Mexico. If I go 2 to 3 fuel tanks without it, the engine starts to missfire and runs poorly even on premium fuel. I just keep a 1l bottle of the fuel additive in my car. What is $12 every 8 to 10 months 1L for fuel additive if it keeps my car running good.

It's the fuel in Mexico. Good job on finding something that works and sticking to it. @@Brandon-uy1uv

I have heard people recommend putting a (very) small amount of ATF or 2-stroke oil in the gas as a "top lube." Not 32:1 or anything; more like 300:1 (a few fl. oz. per fill-up). I have no idea if that works, or if it's just an Old Mechanic's Tale. I do know truckers running older rigs use ATF to make up for the lower lubricity of ULSD, but they don't have cats. I do run what's left of my 2-stroke lawn gas at the end of the growing season, but that's more about me being cheap than expecting "gains" out of it.

@@JetSkiSuper7 1. 2 stroke oil is designed to be burned without ash residue. 2. ATF has a lower number of additives to foul a cat than motor oil. 3. 300:1 means about a quart of ATF or 2-stroke every 2100 miles or so. Which is less than many cars burn. (Cars with tow-tension rings can burn up to 1qt/1000 miles before it is considered "abnormal" enough to require warranty work.) 4. I probably wouldn't do this in anything new enough to monitor cat efficiency and set a code. 5. Probably not EPA legal...but if you aren't breaking the occasional law, are you really living life to the fullest?

Thanks for sharing!

Yeah ... especially with OPE - Outdoor Power Equipment ... the first oil change comes out looking like silver soup.

@@seanthompson8071 read in my comment above about my transfer case and both diffs in my Ranger? I was shocked!!

@@TheBeatenPaths Funny. At Toyota we don't do the diff oil until 60,000kms. It always comes out looking like... pink diff oil! Grey suggests water is getting in. 5000 miles? I call BS.

Thanks for sharing!

It would make sense that it's even more important with thinner oil. Like 0W-8 😂

Thanks!

I'm happy to help. The good old days of Popular Mechanics!

Right on!

Thanks for sharing!

@@themotoroilgeek 😁😊

Even if you measure out the exact width of rtv the service manual states to use there's going to be high silicone content in the oil for the first couple oil changes

@firstlast--- Speed is awesome he was spot on with the lab results! 😁😎

Silicone or silicon? Not the same thing…

Thank you

Glad it was helpful!

Lubrication is always a system that involves more than the lubricant itself. Proper lubrication can be defined as the right oil, in the right place, at the right time and in the right amount.

@@themotoroilgeek Right!

and realistically, the engine is going to outlast the rest of the car. Spending that much on changing the oil just doesnt make sense unless your an oil enthusiast and want to see whats going on with the wear.

Not huge numbers but you ran those numbers for 10k miles. If oil is breaking your bank account you shouldn't have bought the car.

@@raving_1074 do you live in the rust belt perhaps? Here the engine and suspension would fail long before the body

Glad you like them!

yes I spoke with 3 seperate Honda service managers at 3 seperate dealerships and they all advised me against a first 1,000 mile oil change and I was willing to pay for it out of pocket so I did not do it.

Yeah this video proves absolutely nothing. Changing your oil at 500 miles is absurd bologna that this guy probably remembers from the 80s back when American motors were built like total junk.

Funny that you should say that. My dad purchased a brand new Rambler in 1962 for $1800. It came without a radio. Unbelievable. @@AMT4245

Same thing I heard when I took my wife's '06 Pilot in for its first service. I had about 3k on the odometer and they sent me home until 5k.

@@katazack bullshit. take it to a lube place like Take 5 or Jiffy then... Additives or whatever is NOT gonna prevent microscopics from floating in that oil from breaking in the cylinder walls. That's where most of the metallics are coming from.

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks for sharing!

Was that in the 1970s? 🤣

@@motleydude73 It was like this through the 90s as well. And even the early 2000s. You'll need to troll a little harder 😉

@@promethbastard No it wasn't. I started my automotive apprenticeship in 1993. No cars had 'break in' changes. The first change was always at 10,000 kms. These days it's 15000. I bought a new Honda Accord in 1995 first change was due at 10000. A break in period was recommended but not early oil changes.

@@motleydude73 Interesting, although I would say "It wasn't for you" - it was pretty much a known/given thing with the people I hung around. Your experience isn't the experience of others.

Thanks!

There is no engine break in on new cars. Look it up.

@@r3games1985 don't believe everything you read.

Right on!

10k is perfectly fine. Stop wasting perfectly good oil listening to the moron in the video. Your engine isn't going to fail or blow up.

@@kimbuck2177 What for? Isn't your vehicle brand new? Don't need to worry about oil changes for another 9000 miles. Doing anything yourself will void your warranty.

@@kimbuck2177 Why not? They're experienced technicians trained to work specifically on your brand. Good luck if you need anything fixed under warranty in the next 5 years they'll laugh at you.

At 11:00

Thanks!

Yes I noticed this too!! Wow this is like my 5th comment in this vid. Lots of experience and knowledge being shared with this video. Good to see and know that "old school" gear head knowledge being preserved and passed on to alleviate the symptoms of this dealer-centric era of planned obsolescence and consumerism.

Or just use a damn funnel 🙄

Thanks!

Thanks for sharing!

I do the same exact thing on my Tacoma. My last one went over 300,000 miles with one minor repair. I use penzoil ultra platinum also.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qsQYqTM93Nk.htmlsi=cGny2Qmneg7BHrTS

Thanks for the kind words. I use the Driven DI30 in my current Porsche.