As a Certified Lubrication Specialist with over 20 years experience, The Motor Oil Geek channel delivers real data about motor oils from an expert perspective instead of speculation. Each month, I will upload a new video that either analyzes a new oil, dyno tests an oil, reveals the details about motor oil chemistry or uncovers the history of motor oil. Utilizing the same technology applied by Formula 1 teams, The Motor Oil Geek uses SPEEDiagnostix to analyze our new and used oil samples.
It's my mission to provide results that allow you to make decisions based on data, not speculation. The internet is full of people who claim to know about oil and lubrication. At The Motor Oil Geek, you get an actual industry expert with championship winning experience and the credentials to back it up.
If you know what size wrench is needed to change your oil, this channel is for you!
When you add oil to a car through the hole in the valve cover, None of that oil is filtered before going through the engine and down to the oil pump pickup. So it doesn't matter. What are u going start doing? Filtering your oil through a coffee filter before adding it to your engine? 🙄 Tsss.
I just bought a new generator as a home power back-up and I did 3 oil changes during the 5-hour break in. Each one I got the quart of oil (requires 1.5 quarts actually) turned the bottles upside down and gave them good shakes and twists for about 3 minutes, lol.
You're testing these oil additives all wrong. Old school flat tappet hydraulic motors are the way to test this and those oil additives will extend the life of the Cam and lifters. But on roller cam and lifter setups modern engines you don't really need oil additives
With today's hydraulic roller motors they're all getting well over 200,000 miles with just regular synthetic probably even conventional motor oil. No additives needed. On the other hand if it's an old school flat tap it hydraulic, and zinc or Molly are my pick
I have a very big question and nobody seems to have the right answer so I'm gonna ask you. I have a 2016 Buick Regal with a 2 liter turbo engine that I bought for my mother before she passed away. I do not drive the car very often and in the last 4 years it's only gone about 3000 miles. It says it needs dexos oil. My question is I actually use the Valvoline restore and protect and all my other vehicles and it seems okay. Can I use this oil also in that 2016 Buick Regal or should I stick with the dexos rated oil? I also do not have much experience with direct injected engines and all of the talk about carbon build up in the intake. I am wondering is the 2016 Buick Regal one of those vehicles you need to worry about carbon build up in the intake because there seems to be a senses that some cars have an issue some cars don't.
I stand by lucas. Ive always used it,and will continue too. Most of these additives arent made to prolong oil life, they have other agendas. Marvel mystery oil is also another product I've had great results with. Thanks for your opinion,
they dont recommend for many reasons. one big one is if anything happened after adding what they recommended they would be responsible for anything that might happen. its CYA. at end of day some are bad..some are good... its ur engine so ultimately it is up to the end user.
This was great, first time I've ever seen a comparison in these additives with what they can do to your engine. The older mechanics always say the same thing if you need an additive your oil is not doing its job, the other thing they would say is always use the same brand of oil the recipes are not the same and they could have different reactions with each other food for thought. Great video
most euro speced oils like A40 and MB 229.5 don't have LSPI problems, LSPI is a engine design problem. So US and Jap engines will have problems with it.
I have a Hyundai 2011 Sonata with 150K miles on it, Hyundai just put a new motor in it, I have 7K on that motor, going forward what would be best practice with the oil?
I used to work for a generator manufacturer that built diesel generators. We used Kubota diesel engines direct from Japan. I’m sure the manufacturer tested them after manufacturing because they were still oily when they arrived. But they definitely don’t run them that long. In addition to them we would run the entire product for an hour to test them. In addition to that we recommended that the owner do the first oil change at 25 hours after the engine break in. After that they could change the oil every 50 hours. 50 hours is the equivalent to like 3,000 miles.
I aint no mechanic but i changed my oil at weekend and new filter i didn't know i just popped the new filter in and away i went. But next time i do an oil change ill definitely be filling my next filter
Here in the uk 🇬🇧 after watching this. Sit thinking what's the best brand oil to use in a vauxhall corsa d car. There's that many oils some people say castrol some say mobile God knows which is the best. 😂
I think the benefits are directly correlated with filter size and mount orientation. My car has a very small filter that’s mounted horizontally so I don’t see a need to go through the hassle of pre filling it with an eighth of a quart just to dump it out when I’m screwing it on. Also, since it’s so small, it takes nearly no time for oil to circulate through it completely and back into the engine upon starting. I can definitely see a benefit for larger filters mounted vertically to avoid elongated periods of oil starvation on the initial post oil change startup while the pump is trying to fill it.
So here’s my question, most of my cars get an “annual” oil change cause they just don’t collect many miles, so which is best for a car that is driven on short trips only, or on a non frequent basis? Great video.
Devil's advocate here... my father is a master mechanic with 50+ years on the job working on everything from small engines to passenger cars to heavy equipment. Started working at Caterpillar and moved into his own business afterward. To this day his phone rings off the hook because factories, plants, businesses, etc. will have a technician show up who can't fix their machines and their machines are critical to their business. So they call him to get the job done. I have never seen him pre-fill a filter in my life. And I've never known him to have an engine go down. Not once dating back to when I was a boy hanging out in the shop back in the early 1980s. So, I do not bother pre-filling filters either. Haven't for the last 25 years. And I've never had an engine issue either.
I'm not really a mechanic guy so I am a bit confused. If i take out 5 quarts of used oil after warming, drain the oil, change the filter without pre filling, refill the engine with new oil, and start it. Sure it takes 5 seconds to get oil to pressure, but what does that have to do with new oil or oil thats in the engine particulates? This test does nothing to determine whether prefilling oil filter will cause engine damage. I guess you're assuming we all know the order the oil flows throughout the system and 5 seconds of no oil in a certain area after being drained is alarming maybe?
Excellent video! Could you test X1R in the next batch? I've been using it for a long time with positive results, but I'd like to see a deep dive to that
So I was just curious after watching several of your videos, have you done any testing on Z-max or on another one called "Microlon" and am wondering about the results.
Lake assisted me in figuring out my fuel dilution problem in my 6.7L Cummins. Lake believed my oil dilution was likely caused by dirty injectors. I did rule out ring blowby. I'm new to the diesel world and did not run a fuel additive. I had a fuel system induction service and started running Howes Diesel Fuel Treatment (Lake was brand neutral and only recommended that the product contain the PEA additive). The fuel dilution dropped immediately into the normal range, also considering residual oil remaining that was fuel diluted from the previous oil fill. This is a real world result, Lake knows what the heck he is talking about. I now add Howes every time that I fuel up. I will continually test my oil to monitor the health of my diesel engine. And no, I do not and will not use any oil additive as recommended against by Lake.
Great video for science. Honestly you are correct real data speaks louder than words or opinions carried over from decades ago. The prefilling is really up to the person. Lots of cars its not possible to do so. Do whatever make you feel more comfortable. I don't think it makes a difference in your everyday car. Another reason why I do not think it matters is because dealers don't do it. You won't see any of the lube techs prefilling the thousands of cars they change oil for.
