Good tips Tony. I see you used a clip at 2:51 from the Simply Mountain biking youtube channel which used the Brugger test. Since you used that clip , please take at look at the " Zero Friction Cycling Epic Test Fail " video starting at 8 minutes and 42 seconds ( I can't post RU-vid links ) . Essentially the only accurate test of something is in the actual usage case & SMB did not apply the test correctly. I've commented on several channels about not removing rust , especially with Citric or Acetic acid as there is a risk of Hydrogen embrittlement. People seem to fail to grasp that chain metal is being removed and pitted.
Thanks for your comments. I'm not advocating the Brugger test nor a specific bike lubricant. There are many bike lubricants on the market and each has it's die heart following. I suggest cyclist read "non-sponsered" reviews of specific bike lubricants and try a few types depending on the road and weather conditions they ride in.
Absolutely. We have some nice videos on these: Chain wear: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FzyRCcjRuu0.html Cassette wear: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g5uqTNmikro.html Chainring wear: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sXdrOQpr-Zg.html Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
Are you interested in mechanical actived disc brakes (which come standard) with Triban or hydraulic disc brakes. Mechanical disc brakes have the advantage of not worrying about brake fluid leakage, air in the brake lines, or bleeding the brakes. The advantage to full hydraulic is the stopping power. I, myself, switch out the brake system for "mechanically accentuated hydraulic" that have the best of both worlds.
Depends on the road conditions and weather. I ride in mostly dry conditions and use the quick drivetrain cleanup every 150-200 miles. If I ride in dust or wet conditions, I prefer a thorough wash and dry instead. Thanks for asking, Tony
Less then 10 minutes (scub using an old tooth brush, then rinse, wash with soap and water, rinse and wipe dry). This is from tests we performed on segments of various chains in a variety of degreasers and solvents. Good question. Thanks for asking. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Everyone has there favorites and alot depends on the conditions you ride in. Since I ride in mostly dry condition, I use Finish Line Dry Lubricant. But the choices of good lubricants are many, so ask around and try different ones until you find one that suit you. Thanks for asking and safe cycling, Tony
In our tests, Shimano was most effected turning a dark brown/black with much lesser effects on KMC and SRAM (these were the only chains tested). I still would not soak the KMC, SRAM, or other chains for more then 10 min.
See our video on Quick 2-minute Drivetrain cleanup: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0CSUVMxyy3w.html With a lot of grime/dirt build up, I occasionally remove the chain, use Simple Green and an old tooth brush to scrub, wash with soap and water, rinse and dry thoroughly. If you remove the chain, be sure to use a re-usable master link or replace a single use master link. Most of the time the 2-minute drivetrain cleanup is enough.
The quick link (master link) may be re-usable during the life span of the chain, but it wears at the same rate as the chain itself. To continue using the worn link on a new chain can lead to link failure and your chain coming off the bike. I've seen it happen more then once.
Yes, that's the way we used to shorten or remove/install chains in the old days. But remember, everytime you do this, you weaken the pin you've pushed out and back in again. Now we have re-usable master links that do a better job, povided you use them correctly.
The manufacturers comments are misleading. Maybe they think that if they suggest the extra step of removing the packing grease, they won't sell their chain or get some bad press. But that's just a guess on my part.
WD-40 Bike contains polymers in the Dry Lube formula which quickly form a dry film to protect the chain and repel dirt in arid or dusty conditions. I cannot determine the actual ingredients but it appears to be similar to other PTFE dry lubes. Is a little messy to apply from the bottle. I would not use the spay form since it may contaminate disc brake rotors and pads or rim brakes. Here's a user review: www.sevendaycyclist.com/wd40-dry-lube They also make a WD_40 Wet Lube.
You are correct. I was applying the lubricant drop by drop on each roller but sped up the video to save time. Thanks for pointing that out. Regards, Tony
@@thenewone2573 You could, but the best way to conserve lubricant and keep spillage from getting to messy is drop by drop on each roller once around. Then back pedal about 15-20 times to work the lubricant into the rollers/pins/bushings. Let it sit (depending on how much time you have) and then wipe off the excess.
Wax is a great protective coating for chains, especially in wet damp climate areas. A takes little more effort if you soak your chain in melted wax and a little less effort if you appy a liquid wax directly. If you ride in mostly dry conditions, a lubricate such as Finish Line Dry may be all you need. It's a personal choice. Thanks for your comment, Tony
Quoting Jobst Brandt "A myth that is difficult to dispel is the story that grease on a new chain, fresh out of the package, is not a lubricant but rather a preservative that must be removed. This piece of bicycling myth and lore thrives despite its illogic."
It is used by some but I do not recommend it. The fumes of Kerosene are highly toxic, must be kept in a special EPA approved container, is environmentally unfriendly and must be disposed of as a toxic waste.
The best product developed specially for chain cleaning is probably Ceramic speed UFO drivetrain cleaner. It's expensive but a 500ml bottle will strip the factory grease from a couple of dozen chains. It will also remove paraffin wax , should you ever go down that route. Also , unlike with Kerosene / Naphtha you won't risk potential genetic damage and it won't damage the environment. Of course when it has dissolved grease, the mixture has to be treated as hazardous waste.
@@dawn_rider Here's a review from Road.cc: road.cc/content/review/ufo-ceramicspeed-ufo-drivetrain-cleaner-500ml-306923 Thanks for your comment. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks for telling me about this. I have a contact that sells it so I will see what they have to say. The cheapest effective option for deep cleaning chains is several rounds of mineral turpentine / white spirit + methylated spirits OR acetone OR isopropanol to remove the last residues . For new chains that is less than a litre of solvent but it can be much more for partially used chains ( even with 100 miles of use ). This is not for everyone but much better than some really unhealthy solvents like Benzene and n-hexane in gasoline.
@@tony10speed Tony , I had a chat to my contact about the road cc article. My error was only using the product for waxed chains. I think that Ceramic speed has made a marketing error saying it works just as well on dirty oil lubed chains as the cost is high. My contact tells me that UFO Drivetrain (DT) cleaner is cost effective for cleaning the factory grease out of new chains saving having to use conventional solvents. For cleaning a used oiled chain , solvent baths are recommended followed by DT cleaner for chains to be waxed. For contaminated waxed chains, they need to be cleaned first with boiling water which replaces the solvents used when cleaning oil lubes. This melts off most of the wax and contamination. The cleaner then removes the last bit of contaminated wax and it becomes economical to use. The cleaner contains a bonding agent to help wax bond better to chain metal , hence the ' greasy feel '. The Ceramic Speed marketing material also fails to convey the above so that is a failure on their part. It is always more effective to soak clean in a container off the bike rather than do a spray on application on the bike.
I will NEVER understand the logic of trying to remove the packing grease from a brand-new chain! WTF? Install it, ride it, maybe wipe it off with a rag soaked in a bit of solvent if you worry about it attracting dirt, otherwise, JRA! Lube the thing after wiping it down when it looks dry/dirty and check for wear regularly. Chains are cheap so replace them when they show wear to the limits said to damage aluminum (not steel) cogs/chainrings. Your cogs and chainrings will last almost forever and you'll spend more time riding and less time faffing around.
There are some who would agree with you on the packing grease, but, some experts in the field would suggest removing it as I do. Obvoiusly, the choice is up to you. As far as cogs and chainrings lasting forever, if you've been around a while and have ridden a good number of years or worked in a bike shop, you'd see that cogs and chainrings do wear over time. If you keep your chain clean and lubricated, the chainrings and cogs will last (not forever) but years. Regards, Tony
