If your cars heater is broken and you can't afford to get it fixed, then a cheap 12v portable heater may sound mighty tempting! However, if I were you, I would buy a battery powered heater jacket and a 12v heated seat blanket over one of these. Why? Find out why!
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I think the 400w/600w is actually the reason why the heating elements were disconnected out of the box- I think you are supposed to screw the metal jumper plate into the correct position for your selected desired power output.
I was thinking something similar, so I went ahead and ordered one more. This second one was connected in the center position on both sides. It seems like the holes are tapped one size too big for the screw, that's why the first one was disconnected. Its interesting because the resistance is 2ohms wherever it's measured from
@@TutorialGenius That's quite interesting and quite shoddy from them indeed. I do have a suggestion for perhaps a more reputable place to get car heaters and more, if you'd like me to share it. Perhaps you could test one of their 12v heater boxes?
If you calculate for a 2’ run at 31.75 amps you can use 16 gauge wire so 14 is adequate. Would I use 14 on a 400 watt heater if I were building it? Not on your life but it is technically adequate.
Not at all, although, you would expect this to be the case. The clamps can be positioned in 3 places on each side, with each place giving a different resistance reading (I.e. A more powerful heater depending on the position.) However, each position measured at 2 ohms no matter where these were placed.
I am not quite convinced that you are right. In the Black Box, there are a total of four (4) x 2-ohm Elements. But it looked like you only measured one Element. I agree that the single Element would give you approx 79 Watts. But the Heat Output from that Black Box (all parallel - wired) should be 79 x 4 Watts = 316 Watts. The Red On/ Off switch could be changed to a 3 -position Switch, where you could switch some (or all) of the Elements to provide you with different Output Wattage combinations. When I watched your video, I was thinking that the contents of the Black Box would be a PTC arrangement - and not some ancient resistance-wire / mica all knocked together. I am not an electrician, but I have a basic understanding of electronic circuits / functions. Thanks for demonstrating just how the average guy can be ripped-off with shoddy equipment, made from chinesium, and being a little economical with the truth regarding the (claimed) 600W Heat Output. Greetings from Australia.
Somebody already left a similar comment and I addressed it on the response to that. It didn't matter which configuration it was measured in, the resistance was the same (2ohms). Normally you would move the terminals, but this wasn't the case here sadly. I bought two units (in case one was faulty), but they gave the same output.
@@TutorialGenius You had four (4) individual Heating Elements inside that Box. Each Individual Heating Element measured 2 Ohms. I would agree with you that the Heat Output from ONE single element would be 79 Watts. Your conclusion (at 16:30) was that the Power Output "was not even close" - at 79 Watts! I just cannot see how you can string four (4) Heating Elements in parallel (all consuming power) with your conclusion that it "was not even close". The total power consumption was less than the manufacturers' claim, of 400W, but my reckoning was that (with all four elements connected in a parallel circuit), the power being drawn was approx. 316 Watts. If I am wrong, then I need to go back to college.
I mean you could string everything in parallel, but I'm not about to manually do that. It should be wired that way out of the box. Usually you just move the cables like I said in my last message @peterduxbury927
