One great tip you missed out is the new, old stock that can be found. Typically from around the 1970s there are some amazing pieces to be had. Some haven't dated in their designs well, probably explaining why they have just been left in storage somewhere for so long, but others are real gems. You end up with beautifully conditional watches but with the genuine vintage tag.
I just returned from my watchmaker (with his 40 yrs experience). He said to stay away from Polerouters as they are delicate and there are no parts available. They are beautiful, though.
I always have at least one vintage watch in my collection. Right now thats a Zodiac Aerospace Jet 24 hr dial. Definitely buy the seller when it comes to vintage
I recently bought a lovely Seiko LM Automatic 23 jewels. It has day/date and its gold colour. All i know is its 47 years old and never serviced.. it still works but needs to be regularly wound/ to keep time! I love wearing it around the house and even out for coffee.. I get lots of looks and its got a very sophisticated look to it! Its also great conversation starter!
Nothing wrong with old gold plated watches, I have a few that I wear from time to time, some in original 60’s condition that I had bought from qualified watchmakers, and never seen the plat come of these, I have really nice 1964 watch that has aged beautifully with some plat loss, unsure about Seiko, Rolex and Omega are high end watches.
tip: rolex oyster/OP 34mm case are generally 42mm lug to lug..... they dont look small for most people with around 6.5 to 7inch wrist , so long your eyes get used to classical smaller male Rolex case size. only 31mm is deemed BOY or MID size by Rolex in earlier decades .
Dial lume and hand lume may not match all the time on vintage pieces. Dials and hands are not manufactured at the same time or from the same makers. From my understanding, you will never have the exact same lume mix applied to the hands as to the indices on the dial. If they develop patina at the same rate, it's a random chance.
So are we assuming all gold-plating? What about 20 micron gold-plating? Is there a cutoff in terms of which micron ratings to avoid, or is it all gold-plated?
Longines is definitely one of the best brands when it comes to affordable vintage, and they're definitely the best when it comes to securing archival information. If only their 13ZN chronographs were still undiscovered...
From own experience would like to mention that one should be careful with vintage quartz watches. I got it in writing from GP, that they are unable to service and repair my 1974 quartz watch, simply due to lack of spare parts. So I rather stick with mechanical ones instead, as they tend to live longer and have better supply of parts.
"The date window [on the Polerouter] seamlessley integrates into the dial design" ... this statement never fails to fascinate me :D I couldn't really imagine a date window that stuck out more like a sore thumb than the one on this poor watch dial... ;-) for starters, there is no detail on the dial that is trapezoidal but the date window... I still like the watch though :)
Bought two vintage watches. One just required a service, the other needed costly repairs in addition to a service, which exceeded the value of the watch (still got it done, though). I don't regret it as I ended up with two lovely watches that run well with decent accuracy, but at the same time, I wouldn't buy vintage again.
@@Chrono24Official Yeah, absolutely. I also learnt that external condition doesn't give a reliable indication of the movement's working order and condition. The one that just required a service and has been running flawlessly since looked like it'd had a somewhat hard life. However, the other one that's been sent back to my watchmaker twice after a service looked like it'd been cherished and wrapped in cotton wool. Both are mid-tier Seikos from the same era, so are comparable.
A few quibbles: 1) I don't think the Polerouter is undervalued, it's the most overhyped watch of that style out there! There are many other watches of comparable quality and interest that are massively undervalued in comparison (e.g. vintage Longines, vintage Girard Perregaux). 2) A "good" brand, as contrasted with Seiko? A vintage Grand Seiko or King Seiko is every bit the match for a vintage Omega! 3) You equate vintage Omega Constellation with the relatively late Manhattan style and ignore the classic period of the Constellation, which includes such icons as the pie-pan Connie and the Genta designed c-case... While at the same time recommending Seamasters etc. from the same era! And that "De Ville" you pictured is a Seamaster De Ville (and also, famously, that particular one is a redial). 4) Vintage watches /absolutely/ can be as accurate as modern watches, if properly serviced and regulated!
Hey! Thanks for the thorough feedback. I'll try to address each point one by one. 1) I'd say the Polerouter is still a great value given the enduring design, the Genta story, the SAS record breaking connection, and because it was a big pioneer for micro-rotor movements. That's a lot of watch for often under $2k. 2) I put "good brand" in quotation marks because that's how newcomers often ask for recommendations (e.g. something Swiss and more expensive than a Seiko). Although, we know that price is not synonymous with quality. 3) Fair point. The pie-pan Constellations are definitely worth considering for those in the market. People often overlook the Manhattan versions, so I wanted to give them some credit. 4) Absolutely. All my vintage watches are more than accurate enough for my day-to-day. But it can be helpful to manage the expectations of newcomers who may be expecting quartz-level accuracy for a vintage watch on a budget.
@@Chrono24Official Sorry, I was a little strident in my original comment and have toned it down slightly. I still think that the Polerouter gets too much attention compared to other equivalent watches of that era. Take something like a Longines Ultra-Chron for example - beautifully made in-house movement and one of the first ever to beat at 5 Hz. Some stunning designs, and from a company which at that time was one of the most prestigious of Swiss brands. And you can get them in good condition for well under $1000 if you look around..
I am 51, some of the advices are so true. Sometimes I suffer for giving to repair a 1995 18k gold plated vintage Titan watch. Most of my gold are extracted by the repairer, I gave him in good faith. He repaired it, but my gold was extracted. I have not complained about this act of his to him till now, nor shall I say anything, but I lost the faith. ( I shall never repair it any more. I shall write a 'will' and give it to my family members where I shall state about this watch to not to repair it in my old age, and simply to keep it as a collection). Watch is a very peculiar thing, when seen in a moody way it makes a man restless. The reason of becoming restless may be of three things- 1. If I repair it, I shall think as to why I had submitted the watch for repairing, as the gold are extracted. 2. Why I have gifted the vintage 1960 make watch which is already been used ( to a friend of mine in his marriage ceremony). The thing that will disturb is - why instead of buying a new watch why I had given him a used vintage watch. This thing will disturb the most. 3. Why I have nor worn it carefully as scratches have come to my watch. And why have I have not sat in my car seat properly before taking my sitting position. Why I have not alighted from the seat and then adjusted the seat, now with the watch in my hand while reclining the seat the watch got scratched badly. Such things disturbs a man most alarming in bad ways.
So I recently bought a vintage 1970 Omega Geneve with a Calibre 565 movement. It loses about -15-20 seconds per day. Is that normal for a 565 of that era?
Not even a mention of vintage soviet watches? I don't approve the current events but i got to say they had some good looking watches back then witch get you started for as little as €100 for a good looking example.
I like them too. I have a Vintage 1980s Vostok Amphibia. Has the blue dial with Soviet sub. Ukrainian seller. Less than $100.00. I love it. Wife hates it.
I don’t necessarily agree with the notion that you cannot expect a vintage watch to be accurate. If it has been serviced regularly it should be. I have a Longines from 1957 that still runs at -1.5 seconds per day!
Absolutely! It's just helpful to manage the expectations of people who turn their nose up at anything less than quartz-level accuracy, especially when shopping on a budget.
@@Chrono24Official sure, so better by from a dealer in chrono, so you can ask about the accuracy and return it if it does not have the stated tolerances
Totally disagree about gold plated watches. A dumb take without any real explanation. Check the condition of course. And maybe its not an everyday wearer but they can be great looking. Cheap. And with some precious metal. Dare to be different my friends.
How to avoid vintage problems: dont buy a vintage watch 😂 Just kidding, if thats your thing then definitely go for it. For me, i am ok with vintage inspired faithful reissues- all of the looks, but in a brand new condition😊
PR 516 is not slim and sexy but super heavy and chunky and super thick! have u ever touched these pieces you mentioned or just reading some given communication marketing information from your confused colleague somehow???? my dad passed down one to me from 1960s or 70s so i know !
I am sick of seeing that book on almost all videos a man and his watch. It is an absolute krap. Why are you advertising it . Maybe it is a coloring book
