A very helpful video indeed. The install was interesting on my end. I should have used a long 3/8" long breaker bar on The idler tensioner. Use the ratchet wrench, it got stuck and didn't want to come out. Scratched my head on that one for a bit. Uttered a few choice words.. finally got it out of a very tight space. Use a swivel head ratchet wrench to remove most of the fasteners. I recommend 13 mm deep well and standard sockets for the others who wish to DIY. Some might wish to try a 1/4" drive ratchet wrench, after the mounting bracket studs are loose. You'll have more working space that way? Again, thank you for a very helpful video. Follow the steps outlined here, you'll get the job done.
@@operationoverhaul just to be clear the plug I’m talking about isn’t the cap that’s on the top of the port. This plug Is deep inside the low side hole (about 2” down) and has clips that lock it into place inside the hole. Almost like a snap in filter or restrictor if that makes sense
@@Big_Ginge00 Oh okay, yeah I would try to put that back in and if it does not stay then I would return it and get another one from wherever you purchased it. They should get you another one.
@@operationoverhaul I got it back in.. just stumped me for like an hour because I didn’t want to put it in and install if it wasn’t supposed to be in there 🤣 thanks for the reply and the insight. Very much appreciated!
Any insight on a 2016 Ford Explorer 3.5 AWD non turbo. Number 16 fuse (AC Clutch Relay Power) 10 amp fuse blows about 5 minutes after being replaced. Within the 5 minutes the ac works great, but then obviously when it blows the fuse it stops. I’ve changed out the relay and replaced the fuse with no results. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Check the relay connections and see if any of them are grounding out and if not, check the compressor connector to see if it has ground on the power side.
I've got the same issue with my 2013 taurus blowing the fuse after 5 minutes of running, think I'm replacing the compressor because I noticed the water pump was leaking right over the compressor so it might have shorted it out.
@austinranquist9252 Just as I thought after having the water pump leak all over the ac clutch, I'm finally doing mine tomorrow morning, thanks for replying.
No, I did not have to activate the clutch because the vacuum that was applied will pull enough into the system to activate the clutch on the compressor.
It helps remove moisture and will let you know if there is a leak. If you do not have one you can still do the job. I just prefer to do use them to ensure that no leaks are present.
Great Video.. Can I ask you a question. My daughter has a 2017 ford explorer and she just had a new AC compression installed, belt and tensioner . When the car is on and in park the ac works fine( cold) and quite. However when she is driving the car is make a whining noise. do you know what the problem might be. If the ac compressor is bypassed there is no noise. The person that installed it thought maybe he new compressor was bad so he installed a second new one, we still have the problem any ideas? Thank you !
The pulley for the ac was skipped because my daughter was on a trip and the ac loocked and broke the belt. So the repair shop didn't have the compressor, so they just put on a new belt and bypassed the compressor so she could continue her trip until she got home.
So I just had my ac compressor replaced. With the Murray compressor drove it all the way to Florida from Tennessee and noticed only when the ac is turned on there is a rattling sound coming from the compressor direction any ideas?
Did you have to remove the oil that came in the new compressor to add your own oil? Was the oil that came with the compressor not adequate amount or is this a preference?
I do it because I do not know how much oil they put in the compressors from the manufacturer and I want to be sure I put the correct amount in the system.
@@YellaGator Sometimes they put how much is in them but not always. If I do not see a label with the amount then I always empty them and add the correct amount. But you are correct they do put a sticker some times.
Murray makes a service kit with all of the gaskets but it has the pag oil and drier with it. I could not find just the gaskets by themselves. MUK20003 is the part number.
I had my pressure tested and they said it was perfect. Stopped blowing cold and makes one hell of a whine, I’m pretty sure it’s the compressor as well but the dealership wants about $1200 to do this. I have all the tools, can I just get a new compressor and be back to normal?
Yeah this was a NA 3.5l and I drain the oil out of every compressor to make sure that the correct amount it in them. I have had them, actually most of the time, not have the correct amount in them. They are normally lower than what it calls for.
@operationoverhaul mine is slowly on its way out. Hasn't locked up or anything yet. Do you think I need to replace the orifice tube and other components or do you think it will be fine to do just the compressor. I wouldn't think there would be any debris in the system
@cootingram6265 as long as there is no debris in it then I would say you should be okay but if you take the compressor off, try draining some oil out of the old one to make sure there is no metal.
I did this on ramps. It provide a lot room this way actually. I know some people take the tire off to do it but you have enough room without removing the tire.
@@charlesbrown4689 I did put new ones on, just did not show them in the video. The customer actually did not want to do them but I told them that it would not be under warranty unless they changed them, then they opted to change them. I always change the expansion valves and driers not matter what, just a good practice.
Excuse me, my compressor is broken. Is it enough to change the compressor only, or is it necessary to change the air conditioner's adapter and tubes? And thanks
@@operationoverhaul I replaced with another used compressor, but its “certificated” as a in function compressor, Idk if I need a different process to install it
I would do a flush on the system if the compressor is seized and many compressors require you to do so to warranty the part. I did not do it on this one because the compressor was not seized or broken internally but rather the clutch was making noise and starting to have movement causing it to damage the compressor housing. If it was an internal failure or there was a clog somewhere I would definitely recommend a flush on the system.
I can't afford to get my air conditioner clutch/compressor replaced I have to do it myself. I don't have the vacuum. Can I take it in to have a mechanic do the rest without it costing me a lot. I just need the vacuum part done. I can do the adding the free-on myself.
If you take it somewhere they will do the vacuum and the fill at one time. So they will charge you for the freon and the labor to do so which usually is around one to two hours.