Axe geometry is such a deep pool! So many variables and so much to account for. I had a feeling that damage was going to happen. It’s been my experience too. Thinner axes pick up damage much to quick for my liking. Cool to see you fix it in the field too!! 20 degrees is about the sweet spot for most species of wood.
It is a deep pool for sure, but a fun one to dive into! I was pretty impressed how the Muller handled it and cleaned up after, good steel. I damaged the Keech on a grey gum a few weeks ago, even at 19°. But grey gum is mongrel wood! Yep for most axes a simple 20 flat is a good allrounder
The nice thing about that bevel gauge is if your table saw blade gets dull you have it as a backup lol. That thing is huge. I've definitely used axes without an apex before. Sometimes I just gotta swing it as fast as possible. The primary bevel really does do most of the work. It's not recommended for beginners because it can increase the chance of deflections but it's fun to see how it will do. You can tell how used to heavier axes you're. I enjoy going from heavy axes to smaller ones because it makes the light axe feel like a toy. I like that no name tassie a lot. Seems perfect for your needs. Soon I'll actually have to set up a tassie properly on a good handle so I can cross cut with one. Nice work here. I love axes that can be filed. Even if they're a little soft it's better than not being able to hand file.
Haha it does remind me of a saw blade. Can definitely feel the difference switching between the Muller and the tassies. I'll get that helko tuned up soon and give it a proper run!
Cheers mate! I reckon I'll thin it back down a little bit, but to get 16 to last it's gunna need a pretty substantial secondary. Grey gum is pretty tough though, my "Grinder Victim" tassie, (similar to yours on the red elm) once took damage like this at 20! I think someone had cooked the edge though
Yeah i always have a secondary bevel an yeah thin it back to a sixteen degree but just add a secondary bevel to make it stronger its always gonna be harder to maintain a sixteen but a good secondary bevel will help with that but no matter what its always gonna cop damage
Mr. Kurt, you have taken me to school yet again...and in the bush..I have some work to do. 1. Are those sap pockets hard/abrasive? 2. When stoning, did I see a "slurry", was it water or oil? 3. Cupping in the cut or deflection...I have some work to do...Excellent video sir....
Cheers Mr B! When they're dry, the sap pockets and lines crystallise and get pretty hard, similar to your northern pine resin. Yep a bit of slurry, in this case neither water or oil😉 but I'll often just have a tin cup with a bit of water if I know I'm gunna be there a while. These little Norton pocket stones come in handy, I have em scattered about everywhere 😁🪓
Thanks mate, cheers for watching! Bass season is in full swing, I hope your givin your fishin gear a workout! Crazy hot winds happenin here at the moment🥵
Bringing science to the woods - a got no excuses for my blades not cutting properly now that I've seen this What's with stooping to my level and using a chainsaw of all things lol Thank you very much for sharing 😊
Sweet video mate them first couple of swings with the Muller were butter until the edge damage. Cheers for the pointers on edge geometry and I dig the quick bush fix. The Helko is a bloody nice axe keep them coming bro.
Wow that damage at 16 degrees was extensive, but impressive field repair. I thought the 20 degrees would be less sticky than the 16 but I guess the convexity made the difference. Also, I think I love that no-name round pole Mystery Tassie. Wouldn't mind seeing more of her once you get a good edge on.
Great video Kurt! Really enjoyed hearing your thoughts on those axes. I just picked up one of those Mullers about 2 weeks ago, I have yet to tune it up. I like how thin the bit is, should be a great limber. I think Ben Scott is right to recommend the 1000g for a good first axe. A lot of people seem to go for a husky or a council tool, but personally I think those axes are too light. Having a little extra weight and a longer bit makes the muller a really nice axe. Glad to hear the steel is workable, i agree that a working axe shouldn’t be as hard as the Swedes make them. Thanks for sharing! Take care brother😁
Cheers Codi! Agree with you on the Husky thing, cost-wise they're a good axe, but when you consider the mods necessary to balance them out on the 65cm handle, the too-light weight, plus the short bit length (which requires a fair bit of accuracy to use well), something like the Muller on the 70cm handle would be a better and safer choice for a new user. Possibly the only downside of the Muller could be the upswept toe hitting the dirt occasionally, but it's advantages for limbing and longer cuts outweigh that I reckon. As you know I can't speak on Council, but this Muller or the HB Montreal 2.5 are pretty close to the ideal modern-made for a small wood or first axe. Got some Montreal use coming up soon in the next vid! Cheers mate👍👍
Interesting video Kurt! I am surprised that the 20dps flat edge did so well , considering the type of wood...not really that soft I might presume. That being said, I'm glad you like the Müller! I think I will get one as well in the near future. Greetings from Austria!
Another very informative video Kurt , gotta love E.F.Axemen’s “ pocket “angle gauge one of the most useful tools you’ll come across, angle gauge, bbq plate , hub cap, frizbee , rain cover , drum cymbal etc. Great video mate, hope you and your family have a great Xmas.
Cheers mate, same to you! 🎄 It really is a multi-tool hey! Hadn't thought of hub caps🤣🤣 Cake tray, signal mirror, disc brake, drawrvish battle shield...
Great experiment, mate. Good idea to show how geometry cuts, not necessarily the very apex. And I suspect the oldtimers were measuring with something like your scissor sticks. Gives you a thicker measurement than what the bevel gauges do. That big one is insane!
Cheers mate. It's been pretty handy having both the round EFA gauge as well as the ol' scissor sticks. The digital helps work out micro's and convexes, as well as overall cheek angles.
Thanks mate! 16 on an axe like the Muller is probably unnecessary, it's thin and hollow enough behind the bevel that for anything it'll get used for (small cordwood, limbing), a 20 is probably ideal. 20 would give a bit more splitting capability too.
Phowar! Nice vid mate, that was awesome how easy the muller took to a bush tune up! Might have to get me own one day 🤫 saying you could cook a steak on that gauge reminded me of those bloody metal slides at primary school 🔥🔥 could never sit down after recess in summer haha 🫵💪🪓
@@kurts64 no kidding if ya made it down the slide you got to land on bitumen or dead grass then go get bashed playing red rover bwhahaha built different back then 💪🇦🇺🪃
Man I forgot how much like a tank the factory Helko handle is, maybe we are supposed to use it to chop rather than use the axehead. :D I confess I never really cared or payed too much attention to grind angles, I just shape the heads based on subjective views and sharpen the edges until I'm happy with the results. Always nice to see you chop, I love your axes.
Skinny Bear! Hope your well mate. Yep you can feel the added weight in the handle when you swing it. Nice piece of timber though. Hoping to see some more vids from you!
Gidday Kurt. How ya been mate? Great to see another vid of you out in the bush. A great breakdown of the various dymanics of bevels/axes etc on the one log. 16 seems a bit extreme especially when the blunt plumb went so well. The Hytest went like a champion and I live the handle...Did you put a secondary on the Muller after you filed ut...it sure went great guns...Mate your worst notches are bettee than my best. Ps..I was waiting for the steak cookup over the fire...cooking in the bush grows great in y.t. Keep up the good work mate.🙂
Gday Peter, good thanks mate! Agreed, 16 is a bit overkill on this kind of axe. I didn't add a secondary after, the quick repair became a convexed 20. I may re-file it to 18 and a micro down the track but a 20 is a good allrounder. Mate I was wishing I had a steak!🥩🌶🤣
For all the notches you cut have you ever considered turning some of these logs into square timbers? If so you may want to get yourself a broad axe. Dan Dustin has a great video called "from tree to beam" if you're interested. I wonder if you could sell the hewed beams if you have no use for them.
Cheers for watching mate. I have done a bit of hewing over the years and have thought of a hewing vid a few times. Aussie "sleeper cutters" have been an inspiration of mine for a long time. I'll check out the Dan Dustin vid for sure, cheers for the suggestions 👍 🪓🪓
Gday Mate; Great vid. Cool experiment. I have some tassies that I'm building up the courage to take down to 20° bit bevel. They are currently from 25° to 35° We have long cold winters here at Latitude 64°North. Chopping Aspen, Balsom Poplar, Birch, White Spruce and Black Spruce. I think I will try 20° with a 25 ° micro bevel
Gday, thanks mate! It would get bloody cold up that way! Never seen low temps like that before, let alone chopped in it, but I'd guess that the tassies should handle that kind of geometry you've got planned. Stay safe up there!👍🪓
Oh man a steak would have been awesome lol. I reckon the Helko's a pretty solid buy, it's not quite the same as a vintage tas in the cheeks but it still goes well. A little bit pricey for still needing a handle- and grind- thinning, but if you enjoy doing that stuff yourself it'll turn out a pretty cool axe. Nice that it comes with a sheath too👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 Thank you. I appreciate the advice and experience. Some of Ben Scott's videos have lead me to understand that all axes have their place and that Aussie axes aren't the be all end all axe. So the hollow cheeks of the Hello should be fine. All I want to do for now is get the Hello and an Iltis Europe from Oxhead.
@@Dmoriarty1993 no worries mate. Ive not used an iltis, they're a bit hard to get here but from what I've seen I reckon they'd make an ideal pair, the helko for heavier chopping and an iltis for smaller limbing and felling.
@@kurts64 I hope you get one. It'd probably cost you fair bit by the time it arrives, but I reckon it'd be worth it. Light weight, good bite and low sticking. The only thing making be hesitate is that I forked out for a Tuatahi Working Axe about a year ago so I'm trying to gather a well rounded collection of axes without spending more than I need to.
Nice file work! What brand is the file? That Muller looks like a nice axe and the handle looks like Ash. I guess you probably don't see a lot of Ash handles down under.
Cheers Matt! The file is a 10 inch Bahco single cut, works pretty well. Yep an ash handle, the first ash handle I've used apart from one on a hatchet years ago (which I broke😏). Feels amazingly light, and has some awesome grain patterns!
Yep. It's a nice shape and a good bit of timber, but the shoulder is huge. Just from that one notch I marred up the handle from hitting the sides of the cut. Good thing is there's plenty of room to jump the head down
I love my muller it cuts oak amazing the handle comes thick had to take that down a lot and I don’t care for ash but love the axe mine is the smaller forest axe
Great vid mate i couldn't tell ya my edge geometry never measured it i just sharpen my axe so i cuts an from watchin all you axeman on utube I've picked up a few extra pointers but still dont measure it when I'm chopping the edge stays good but when im splitting the edge gets damaged but trying to learn the flick technique to prevent that
Gday mate, cheers for checkin out the vid! Yeah measuring everything's not super important, comes in handy if your trying to replicate an existing shape or your just chasing figures, but for the most part filing reasonably flat to the eye sorts the majority of head designs out. Splitting dry gum can be hard on edges for sure!
@@mattoster0994 it held up well! Was a little bit of wear but nothing major. Have taken it chopping a few times since and haven't sharpened it yet, just to see how it holds up over time, so far it's been good!
Yeah mine is the same haven't sharpened it much holds up ok Have you reshapened it yet i took the speed bump out of it an it sticks less great shape for splitting an from what I've chopped a good chopper too
@@mattoster0994 nah I haven't done anything to it yet, just been abusing it stock. It's a handy tool for sure. Hoping to get some more chopping footage this weekend if the rain lets it happen
es liegt nicht nur am anschliffwinkel und ob konvex oder nicht, oftmalss auch am stahl und der verarbeitung. was wirklich möglich ist sieht man in dem video unter extrem bedingungen (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ld0WJClPxdY.html&ab_channel=%D0%9A%D1%83%D0%B7%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%86%D0%B0%D0%A2%D0%BE%D0%BF%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%81%D0%B8%D0%B1
Ha, had to laugh at this Kurt. With subtitles turned on the chainsaw noise comes up as "Foreign" but not the axe noise. Another great video, awesome to get such a great demo of the difference preparing the bevel and handle can make. Might need to limit the foreign languages though, funny it always understand any swearing Cheers PP
