AYP Lawn Mower - Self-Propelled Transmission repair - Bad Gear 

Yeah, sorry about that. I'm sure it would have been helpful to do it that way. And yes, you do need to put grease back in the box before you reassemble it. You don't want the metal gears to rub against each other without it. It will ruin them faster than you know it.

where did you order it from?

Where to order from??

Sorry about that. The part number is now at the top of the description. Thank you.

I usually get things from 'Repair Clinic.' If they don't have it I search the internet for someone else. Sometimes I get lucky that way.

If it works I would leave it be. I added grease and oil to mine and now it no longer works

Did it spin before you assembled it back into the mower? Was the lever actually being pulled enough to engage it? 🤔

@@ElectronicsEditor It worked just fine on the deck I removed it from. Then I briefly tested it out when I transferred it to the new deck. Same Craftsman 22" decks on both mowers. I had to swap transmissions because the other one locks up for some reason when I was cutting the lawn this past week. Yet, spin pulley again by hand, start the engine and then it runs for 2 seconds once engaged and locks up again. So that is why I changed the whole assembly to my spare one. So I took the spare one from the rusted out deck that was always good. Then I put the oil and two types of grease the next day after install and now ugh....so one spins but never engages and one locks up. But it is the one I added lubricant too that messes me up. How can some grease & oil cease of something that slides or couples together?

@@tcapone1734 Well, maybe for some unknown reason when it stopped working after a couple of seconds, maybe the gears crashed and got stuck. I'm thinking you may have to take it apart to see what's going on in there.

@@ElectronicsEditor Good idea since that one is already off the mower. But first I am going to clean out the one that spins without engaging inside with Brake Klean spray. Then I will add back a couple of squirts of 00 grease. Only enough to lube. See if that works. Not opening it on that one, just spraying a jet in the hole and letting everything come out.

Things are designed differently by different companies so its hard telling why some would use oil versus grease. There might not be an oil inlet hole due to it never having to be refilled. Think of it like your car engine, you wouldn't put grease in it instead of oil, but without inspecting it myself, I couldn't say if in this case grease would work just as well. The company probably filled one half with the oil then sealed it shut, so its probably not completely full of oil, just enough to slop around to keep things lubed.

@@ElectronicsEditor Are these parts still available somewhere in Europe? Looks exactly like the stuff I got on Husqvarna Jet55 (S?). Also, haven't these got a small profiled cavity on the shaft itself that interlocks with one of these sliding parts? I could have lost a part that goes in there and locks the mechanism altogether, so regardless of whether I replace the gear, it could still not be working.

@@conceptofeverything8793 I'm not sure about availability in Europe, but I would think that "Repair Clinic" would ship the gear there. They have it in stock. I copied and pasted your jet55s into their search and it showed some parts for it. You may have to search around for your missing part or try to make it yourself if it's the little key or brass fittings. The key would be the thing that fits into the low-profile cavity you're talking about that helps hold things in place. I hope things work out for you.

@@ElectronicsEditor thank you for the hopes. i may just walk around the grass with a magnet and hope its magnetic, although the mower has so many issues I may consider switching the whole transmission to something out of an another model, and updating the wheels to any equipped with ratchets, as disengaging the drive is impossible with this model of mine, and it often that I have to pull the mower back when cutting the grass, so it'd wear off pretty quickly eithet way. The engine sounds fine, but just yesterday I got a carb issue, as it stopped drawing fuel. Mustve been a dirty funnel I filled it through. Also with the work its been doing, I had the thought of giving it some terrain wheels, something small with an innertube. The mower was brought from a dumpster years ago, so I guess it deserves some modding after temporary fixes. Cheers.

My guess would be that the gears on the wheel itself have worn down, so the wheel probably needs to be replaced.

I did some snooping around and came across this as being a replacement part for the worm gear. If you search the internet for the part number, you can find it in other places as well. I hope this helps. www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Shaft-Replaces-183863-532183863/dp/B00TD46GIO

@@ElectronicsEditor...Excellent...I ordered the worm shaft you posted...I believe with these 2 replacement parts will fix my issue....Thanks again and looking forward to your next videos.

The gears on the Chinese replacements are pressed on making it almost impossible for the DIY applications. YEA! 🎉

This mower uses a pulley wheel on the motor shaft and one attached to the transmission, and when engaged by a lever on the handle, a belt turns the transmission that in turn, turns the wheels. It only turns at one single speed according to the gear ratio. I hope this answers your question.

@@ElectronicsEditor I meant was my MTD operates the same way but has a differential that allows the wheels to turn at different speeds so the mower can turn. Was hoping that maybe there was a one way clutch inside the transmission that would allow this, at least when the transmission is not engaged, as there obviously is no differential. Looks like that gear maybe part of a one way clutch.

@@notme22 could be ratchet gears in the wheels, but Im not sure. Probably both turn, and manouvering the mower is about sliding the wheels over grass.

I believe I used regular automobile wheel-bearing grease (red). If it works at high speed and high temps in a car wheel, then it should work way better than it needs to for this application. I haven't heard anything bad from the customer about it failing. Pack it in there full and you should be good.

@@ElectronicsEditor thanks

Take a good look 👀 it’s right hand or left hand thread ?

I believe I used regular automobile wheel-bearing grease (red). If it works at high speed and high temps in a car wheel, then it should work way better than it needs to for this application. I haven't heard anything bad from the customer about it failing. Pack it in there full and you should be good.

@@ElectronicsEditor : Thanks! I found I have high-temp auto grease (red) I’d use for it.

@@ElectronicsEditor I added oil and grease including 00 grease and now it no longer works. I should have left it alone...

Yes, you don't want to have metal to metal without having lube to help the parts slide off each other. Otherwise, it will heat up and lock up.

I've noticed that too.

If you wanted to try that, I would use gear oil instead, but you probably would risk it leaking out of any crack, hole, or defect in the gearbox itself. Also, the seals around the shaft that goes in both sides of the box are not tightly sealed enough for oil. Good thought though.

The part number for my particular piece is located at about 7:03 minutes.

I never counted. 🤣😂

I apologize for my video not working out for you as you had hoped it would. Remember you can fast forward through videos to get to the information you need to hear or see. As far as removing the gearbox, the end of the video shows the reinstall, which can be followed in reverse to remove the gearbox. Stop the video at the points that you need to look at for a longer period of time. Thank you for your comment.