The "clear" kit is actually quite clever in concept I've seen it done quite nicely. The convenience of just scratching out the molded in windows its very intuitive
I'm definitely looking forward to seeing how this series turns out. Thank you for sharing your skill and talent we us, I really appreciate all the hard work and effort that goes into creating works of art and I believe you're a great modeler and it's always enjoyable to watch your video's. Take care and have a great build...👍
Can't wait to pick up those window masks! And hopefully someone will make some resin parts for the sensor arrays along the rim of the saucer too, as I'm not about to use the cheesy decals they provided.
Consider for your nacelle wiring go with a rod connection design. Where by you have a conductor setup on a rod with a conductive ring, say styrene rod and then put contacts that ride (skid) on that cylinder that are held in place with a spring. That way there is no flexing of wire. The only thing that might be a challenge is figuring out where dead center of the hinge point is.
Great start, Lou. Looking forward to this series. I've had the 1/670 Voyager model unfinished and set aside for years because I got so frustrated with how bad my windows looked cutting them out freehand. This masking technique looks it'll turn out great and better than scratching out the windows after the fact, as I've seen others doing on the new Clear Edition. Freehand just never turns out as good as you aim for, no matter how meticulous you are (at least for me).
Short but still informative and interesting. Yeah, strange they call that milky white a clear. Doesn't look clear to me either. I'm interested to see how the lighting turns out on that one.
Small electronics have all sorts of flat ribbon cables that might be perfect for the nacelle pylons. I don't know how easy they are to solder to, though.
Ribbon cables are as easy/hard to solder as any other wiring. I used a ten-pole ribbon cable for my 1:350 Enterprise to go through the stand. Works like a charm, and I can have all the electronics in an easy-to-access control box.
If you are new to this channel, Lou designs his own vinyl masks for the kits he makes on this channel, and sells them on culttvmanshop.com. I've ordered one set in the past and they worked out very well.
Im gonna half to go down in the cellar and see what scale the old Revell kit is, is the Revell kit the same size as the new Voyage thats coming ? not the 1/1000
Hi Lou, another out of the blue question: is it OK to use putty to seal a led in place, I mean so that the stuff would be in touch with the led? I'm using Mr. White Putty.
So long as it doesn't have any metal in it that could short against the wiring, go for it. LEDs don't typically generate enough heat to be a problem, so you only have to worry about shorts. Also do a burn test on the resistor. Light the LEDs for an hour or so and see if the resistor is warm. If it is, you need a beefier resistor, but also, dont bury that in the putty.
What kind of drill bit's do you use when you use them for drilling out the window's. I break so many of them that I have stopped doing light up models! Is there any better way to make the holes?
@@slighter I just hope then the make all kits clear. I have a DS9 right now that's just been sitting around after breaking about 5 bits. be nice if the molding could have pins in it or at least those section be a lot thinner.
