B-Pump Ogikubo🇯🇵 HARDEST Climbing Gym EVER 

Akiyo once said that a "perfect V4 climber" (in terms of technique) is all you need, and higher grades are just strength. Now this makes sense - she meant V4 in BO.

when they say "this is a v3 in my gym" THIS IS THE GYM.

That v0+/v1 is definitely at least like a v4 in my gym

those lower v grades are insane for what the routesetters have given them ahaha

This is the gym of everyone who comments V0 in my gym !

if a v3 looks as difficult as a v6 in my gym i cant imagine what a v10 looks like there

I have been living in Japan for twenty years, and Ogikubo B-Pump was a walk away from my house for many years (old gym and new gym.) Route-setting through all grades, including beginner grades, is fantastic, so it's a great place for beginners too. The easiest (pink tape) problems are not just ladders, but introduce necessary techniques. Moving up the grades, In my opinion, going from sending red tape to blue tape is a big jump, and then white tapes start to become seriously testing. I've seen Janja fall off a tricky blue V2/V3, so virtually no boulder is a give send if you are complacent. It's a wonderful gym, but leave your ego at the door, or it could be crushed.

That first V3-4 looks like it would be V7 in my gym lol. You’re a crusher dude and your content is very motivating! I always watch it on my rest days

There're several "rewards" by the route itself in the climbing world. In average gym, they are finger strength, upper body power, mobility, flexibility and so on. And as you can tell, precision is one of the most weighted "reward" in some Japanese climbing gym like B-pump. It literary take the game to another level.

I really want to visit the Japanese climbing gyms

Those are some of the hardest looking indoor v0-v1's I've ever seen. No wonder Japan has so many good climbers when all their setting is crazy hard/technical.

Love it dude, keep it up💪🏻

Your video is very comprehensive and you climb super strong! The part where you compared the grades you could reach at different gyms in different countries was also helpful! To give some context of Ogikubo's grading: - earlier this year, Ogikubo set a 100 routes with ascending difficulty while keeping the tapes. The red tapes (5Q = V0+ on the conversion chart) went up to 40, and white tape (3Q = V3~V4) went up to 60s. This also gave a perspective of where you are at the a 1-100 scale comparing to the frequenters at the gym (basically most people there are very strong). The world cup pro-atheletes were in the 90s range for green and black tapes, and they also need to work hard to send them. - from my personal experience, it is consistently 2~3Q ("kyu") harder than most other non-B-pump gyms in Tokyo (e.g. a B-pump 5Q could be a 2/3Q at other gyms). Most other gyms also start at lower grades (i.e. 9~10Q) so it'd give beginner climbers more routes to climb. A few other things that make Ogikubo hard: - due to limited space in Tokyo, you can find gym walls here are very packed with holds, and it requires much more precise movement. For instance, the two big black holds were definitely in your way to get your right foot onto the jib for the blue-hold-3Q route you were working on. And it's much harder to send a dyno on non-comp walls than comp walls (many more holds in your way). - Ogikubo is pretty good with getting and setting with new type of holds that you just might've just seen in a world cup. It also often sets with much more new-school style.

great videos. Going to Japan in April next year. Hoping to visit all these gyms and do some outdoor climbing

Nice to see a video where the lower grades are challenging! Definitely checking out the rest of the vids! Japanese gyms look amazing!(ly hard haha)

I think you said it perfectly, I found that the hardest thing about ogikubo is that everything feels insecure. Usually at other gyms its a bad hand or foot in ogikubo the position itself is always bad

Awesome video! Can't wait to visit this gym

Great video! Love your energy

I love your energy and positivity 😊 (and your climbing haha)

Fantastic video for one of the best gyms I have visited. So happy to see your take on the grades there. I didn't know about Shodan being the gate to mastery. New lifetime goal set!

Bro you've motivated me so much in my resting day that I can't wait for tomorrow to come to send some routes!!

Such a good video. I think you've showed me another piece of motivation to train even harder and improve way beyond what I'm capable of right now.

Love your videos more than any other climbing creator. Thanks

Loved the video! It was my honour to give you a good time as the stuff at B-Pump!! Hope to see you again in Japan!!!

This is so cool, no gym that I've been to has had routsetting this creative

Very good video! For me the boulders looked really difficult. I subscribed, thanks for the awesome content!

Loved the video! ♥

I like your Videos so much! Your style of climbing is so beatyfull to watch! Please make more 🙏

We just went in June 2023. Random weekday evening. To my left Fujii Kokoro is working a problem. Down at the comp wall Ogata Yushiyuki hanging with a buddy, who could have been a national champ for all I know - there are so many world class Japanese climbers and I only know of a handful. Their conversion chart is like he says, about 4 grades harder. And everyone in the gym was at least decent. Everyone was able to climb a US v6 or better. It was like the field of dreams. Awesome and super challenging.

I'm relatively new to climbing but I had the chance to climb in another gym in Tokyo. It was so much harder than what I was used to. I'm currently at a V3/V4 level but I only managed to climb some V0+/V1 routes in Japan. I've learned a lot though.

Excited for the part 2. Also, you should the "Thank$" button!

I've climbed extensively at Japanese gyms including B-Pump and I'm a routesetter in the US. One thing to note is that the scale at the beginning is the "official" Japanese-to-V-grade conversion chart, which applies best to outdoor bouldering. There are stiff and soft gyms in the country, with B-Pump being one of the hardest. Here's a rough chart just based on my own opinion if you want to know what grade you might climb at B-Pump: 8-kyu - VB 7-kyu - V0 6-kyu - V1 5-kyu - V2-V3+ 4-kyu - V4+ 3-kyu - V5-V6 2-kyu - V6+ 1-kyu - V7+ 1-dan - V8-9 2-dan - V10+ 3-dan - V11 and up

Awesome Video!

I think i briefly saw you at Night's game competition at Rocky akebonobashi. Looking forward for the video hopefully 😉 Ogipump still beating my ass on some 3Q, with completely impossible 2Q for me, glad you have sent some!

LLOOKING ABSOLUTELY HUMONGOUS ALSO PRETTY VIRAL VIDS LETS GOO RAAHHHH💪💪💪💪💪

Awesome video man

When the gym is 2-3 grades harder than outdoors that is wild. My gym is very hard on grading and turns V4 climbers at the other gyms in the city into V1 climbers, but it's still nowhere near the level of B-Pump. I hope to one day visit here as my hardest grade as of right now is V7 and I want to test myself more.

That W4 comp problem looks brutal on the lower back I was there the week of the Hachioji finals and could only average V3's. The post-McDonalds hits different there too

love it❤

I was thinking of checking this out when I was in Tokyo, but never got around to it. This looks awesome! If you get the chance, you may be interested in Edge & Sofa in Matsumuto. Def a hike from Tokyo and nowhere near as big as B-Pump, but really tough and creative problems there + alps!

I really enjoy your videos! It is also very interesting to see your progress, since you started at the same time as me👍 keep up the great content!

Your knowledge of the rocks you come across baffles me. What I wouldn’t give to go on a single expedition with you. Teaching myself with books and videos has only gotten me so far. Being with someone with field experience who can point out the rocks in real time would suit my learning style so much better. How did you learn so much? I would love to make a trip out to that area in the future but I wouldn’t have much success with my lack of actual agate hunting experience.

I guess the difference between b-pump and depot is that depot caters to more punters and newer climbers, b-pump always felt like it was a place where the elite train tbf. Its like going to the school room where everything on the board and spray wall is sandbagged haha

another banger

Sick video

I come from Nepal . My gym has very few space and grade are too soft then I see video like this ! My heart aches for these types of gym

Dude I relate so much with this video I live in the countryside of Brazil, and the gyms here are disconnected from the rest of the world. Besides that we still use the international V system for boulders, and its completely broken. The V3 here are way harder than the ones I usually see online. I think that happens because climbing its not a popular sport here, so must of us also climb in the rock. Anyway, I am so happy to know there are other places where the "system" doesnt apply very well too

What an awesome Video! I love your positivity :D Also, the choice of music was excellent! Sadly, there ist no list of the used songs, or is there? I would love to check out some of them ✌️

I normally climb V4/V5 in the States and I could barely climb a V1 when I visited this gym last month LOL. Climbing in Japan is not for the faint of heart!

The boulder you did at 16:05 in Arkose, Bordeaux (im climbing there and did this one) is more 6a+/6b than 7a+

very good 🙂

Heading there in 3 weeks!

Let's gooooo

A comment for the algorithm, my friend

So this is the gym people talk about when they say "V0/1 in my gym" . I'm flashing 6c consistently, but can't see myself flashing most 5's there. Holy that gym is insane. Will definitly remember it if I go to Japan next time.

Now im psyched and its 11:30pm

Great video! I am curious how the white holds on the wall at 20:27 work. Are those for when you want to use that wall as a spray wall or do they also make up problems somehow?

Going there one day is definitely a big goal of mine

So much potential for learning when they aren't afraid to put advanced moves that are strength appropriate for a lower grade. Lile that blue v3 with the toehook. However the rest of that one was sandbagged to hell and back 😂

WTF hahaha waow the boulders look insanely hard for the grade, a dynamic toe hook catch on a v2-v3 I would never see that in any gyms in my city up until V4-V5

I went to B Pump when I was in Japan!!! The other kids there are incredible!! I'll be posting the video to RU-vid also 😀

God i hope climbing continues growing in the west like it has over the last 5 years. The Japanese do everything so well

Can't wait to go there and not being able to climb anything!

Super fun video. Did you try any individual moves on any black tape climbs?

It's fun how American gyms put the grades on the boulders so high, there a v7 it's like a v3 in other countries.

They set climbs 2 grades below what they consider V0, so the grade conversion isn't simply a case of Japanese climbers being stronger (though I have no doubt that's true especially in this gym), but more-so the Japanese culture of humility. Or in general climbing culture... sandbagging :)

7:09 makes me wonder how often you work on your stretches looool, or is it just awkward positioning?

"Shodan" is like how sushi restaurant apprentices have to wash rice for 5 years before being able to do anything else lol

I climb up to 7A/7B at the moonboard as well as in my home gym. In fontainebleau although, I didn't manage to do sth harder than 6A the one time I was there. So maybe I suck at outdoors or all the gyms/ moonboard is graded to low, except this gym

When I got a 1 dan climb in Japan I celebrated.

WTF THOSE V0-V2 CLIMBS ARE INSANE. those are like v3-v6 in my gym

Japanese gyms are super sandbagged. Japanese grades are always 2 grades below overseas grades, this gym just takes it to another level.

After you climbed in B-pump, you immediately evolved

This makes me wann climb..

Everything sandbag in Japan. I used to climb v10 when I was in the US. I moved to Japan and I only climb v3/4 now

looks accurate to outdoor bouldering.

How is it compared to usa climbing gyms ? Like what’s ur average in the USA ? Awesome video we just went 2 weeks ago lol super hard

The Dan-kyu system is awesome, but I think the V-grades they're claiming are equivalent to their dan-kyu grades aren't very accurate. The V0+/V1s which are clearly causing a V10+ climber to pull hard are hilarious.

Im trying to get my second ever v5 on a paddle move and you're "v3" wall looked harder than the v5 I've been trying

Cool vid!. One question, why are ther holds inside tapped triangles?. First slab problem it look like they belong to the problem

One thing that strikes me as a european climber, is the lack of crimps. Compare these boulders to the moonboard or famous outdoors areas around europe it seems like a completely separate style

What is the song roughly @ 7:00-8:00?

sooo good

That yellow v2-3 in the beginning is a v6 in my gym

Do you wrap your wrists with tape or something else which is reusable?

Bro I’m going here in a month - scared LOL

some omega sandbaging going on in this gym

Whoever came up with the "this v0 is a v5 in my gym" meme wasn't actually joking they just came back from this gym

The grading looks like identical to bouldering in rock

This Video is the embodiment of "V0 in my gym"

no wonder japanese climbers are so good, they mark grades like 2-3 grades lower so when they get a v5 they really a v8

Why do they start with 8Q = -V2 when they convert the grades? I feel like the difficulty would feel way more accurate if they just started with 8Q = V0

the routsetters have to be joking, right? The first yellow V1 you did would be at least a V4 at my gym, or maybe even a V5

去成都玩玩，黑爆和339也非常的硬，导致这个视频居然没有对我产生过大地冲击

V0-1 basically as hard as V3-4 anywhere else In the world, lol

Your grade conversions are a little off my friend. Shodan (初段)=V7/8 Nidan (二段) =V8/9 and Sandan (三段)= V10/11. The gyms are hard all over Japan.

So hard 😅

Bro idk what v grades they’re using but it’s definitely not what the gyms I’ve been to are😭😭😭. My v4 is their v1/v2😭😭😭

Japan just has stricter grading, and 段級位制 doesn't have any standardized conversion to V grading (especially as there's no reliable standard within V grading itself). The actual routes aren't inherently more difficult as Japan doesn't have exclusive holds or climbing techniques that the rest of the world doesn't have; you're just on the wrong grade if something is substantially more difficult than expected. Though, of course, if you normally climb at, say, a gym geared for 180 cm climbers, Japan's routes will not be as suitable to your body shape or what you are used to. That's nothing specific to 荻パン though. If anything, it's just a lesson in how inconsistent grading is across all of climbing especially when going international; nothing about the gym itself is more difficult than any other gym in the world.

im not even gay but this guy is so good looking, im falling in love