Pete, I've just watched the back gutter vid again. Look mate, i think that we should make you a national treasure along with David Attenborough etc. Your voice (Charles Dickens would have heard that accent), your straightforward manner, and that rare quality to take your viewer with you to the end - my brew went cold while watching. Thanks again, its a joy to watch something that enhances a little.
we've got years of experience working with chimneys in the fireplace industry - I have never seen a chimney flashing done properly - this shows it can be done after all - thanks Peter
I fitted one of Peter's back gutters (90cm wide) using this video earlier this year. It was delivered within a few days and sorted out all the leaks. Very good quality and value. I should have bought the weathering lead also as I had to buy a full roll to use just 1.2m. I did not secure the flashing with lead wedges but used stainless steel Hall Clips, which were easier and quicker to fit. Instead of mortar pointing I used CT1 grey sealant which unlike silicon does not shrink. Thanks Peter
a clear and well explained video by an experienced craftsman , a pleasure to watch. i am slating a roof and have a parapit wall to get around , it is approx 200mm wide and so sticks up like a chimney , so am i right in saying the principle will be the same as lead flashing a chimney. i am going to buy the rear apron made to measure thanx
Nice to see someone who knows what they are talking about. I used to do loads of leadwork in the past, rarely touch it now. Loved doing lead burning too. I still have the tools though, many passed down from my father. Boxwood of course :)
@ReddNeckerson Sorry about delay (more trouble with computers that lead sheet ) Like any roof work/lead work start at the lowest point as thing lap each other in order to weather the roof. Front apron, side flashings, back gutter
For some reason I'm not getting sound on any of these videos. I've viewed them before with no audio issues but something seems to have gone wrong, and it doesn't appear to be my end. Can anybody confirm they do or do not have audio please?
them flashing pieces that are welded up do you make them yourself ... looks solid job any vids on just doing it out of standard lead and not pre fabricated... i like your videos stright to point.
When it rains I can hear water running down the chimney. The chimney breast in the room is wet. I have had three quotes from roofers, each stating different issues and repairs. I am a very much a senior living in a bungalow and I feel checking out your videos that its the back apron that is the issue. Advice would be appreciated.
A great bit of work but I think not many do it properly. What's your thoughts, as the Americans, in insulating around the base of the pot about 40mm to allow for pot expansion onto the flaunching. Sound a good idea but sealing the gap between flaunching and pot at its base is done with sealant which unless its 1200c stuff is questionable re long gevity.
great job and explanation Pete. Really, your competence in showing, and not ego tripping like so many on here, is refreshing. I wish that i'd served my time with you mate. Any chance of you doing a video of lead burning in situ? And perhaps a back gutter with tile, not slate, next time. One thing i do, FWIW, is to fix a small section tilting fillet on the board tight to the stack. AAMOI: have you seen how some American roofers use a "cricket" as a back gutter board? I think its because of heavy snow protection?
Hi peter. Are you a roofer by trade or lead worker? Im a roofer, slate, tile and flat. Could improve with lead work though. Can do valleys, soakers and step flash but not too confident in forming the gutter backs. Did i see a comment of yours saying you can buy them ready to fit? Thanks mate
Until you end up with lead poisoning. One of the first things I learned after I started working with lead, is always wear gloves while working with it. If you’re not wearing gloves then don’t smoke until you’ve washed your hands!