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Using 1/144 decals on a 1/100 kit to make it look bigger is genius! I’m definitely going to use that, along with the shading techniques, on my future builds. Bravo!
You are the only person I’ve seen do shading this way, every other time I watched a tutorial the creator was adding dark areas to light primer. This didn’t work for me at all so I figured out the way you do it by myself. It’s nice to see someone with much more talent than me doing shading the same way as me
I believe this technique is called “preshading.” My understanding is that it tends to work best for creating a darker, and more shadowy aesthetic. Some people swear by it, while others prefer to do shading and highlighting after.
Amazing craftsmanship as always, my friend! Thank you for giving us this spectacular tutorial; I've been meaning to buckle down and learn how to do this technique.
The fact that you understand color so well! I agree, just using black as the shader creates this harsh transition color that is very offputting in a lot of builds. You're using colors that work with the final color, instead of against it.
im sat here staring at my narrative, trying to decide if i wanna try this. not doubting the method, doubting my ability to successfully pull this off hahaha. thanks for the video tho, this puts me one step closer to either ruining my kit, or making it the best it's ever been!
would love to see a video on the other smaller parts and details you painted. i have narrative sitting in the box as im going to try and emulate your build here. but im scared im gonna mess up the details.
now this one is superb, and speaking of which, what other kits will you use in the next back to basics episode? i've been waiting for that for quite some time now, hahaha, i'm just asking out of curiosity though, but i still do wanna know what else will you be making in the future
That's amazing! Do you use multiple airbrushes both with different colors inside? Or do you keep switching the light grey and the purple in the same airbrush?
Definitely my favorite modeling youtuber ♡ I'm also trying to customize my own gunpla :) P.S. Can you tell me the brand of your nipper? I want to buy it too
Ok real talk, do you ever scratch the paint off by accident when you are posing the kit afterwards? I’ve painted models, applied top coat (too much sometimes) and there’s always bound to be a little scratch here and there after posing.
Unfortunately some of the psychoframe doesn’t have texture on both sides so you lose some detail painting it solid. I don’t know if it’s possible, but I would’ve tried flipping the shield psychoframe so the details are now on the top. Can’t do much about the back ankle parts, but at least they have a little bit of detail with the flat top
Hello EA, just wanted to ask what panel liner ink are you using? Since I've been recently hesitant to use my Tamiya Black due to it giving cracks on my last RG, kinda having PTSD with my recent MG's. Kinda tedious to clear coat every part and do a panel line after, then top coat for final. Really don't have the space + painting booth to do clear coat sesh and let it dry out. Trying to find alternative inks that aren't gonna eat the plastics out.
When you mean 'mist coat' do you mean putting on a gloss clear coat over each layer/step you take? Also how long do you wait to dry between each layer?
btw, i have some question. i do the paint. with airbrush. but sometime a little bump with other part chipped the paint. wht should i do? is it because i prime it too thin? or the paint are too thin?
It sounds like either the paint hasn’t cured fully, or too much force was applied. Make sure to wait at least 12 to 24 hours before reassembly, to guarantee that any deeper paint is fully cured and adhered. It could also be a lack of primer or surfacer. It helps to sand the part lightly with a relatively high grit. This will create a surface for the paints or primers to cling to. Many people prefer to do a “tacky coat” for their first coat for the same reason.
I prefer the shading painting method rather than solid painting method. It makes gunpla look more realistic. Unfortunately, it's rare now to see gunpla builders using this technique.
Wow, it looks great. 2 questions: 1. Why panel line if you are going to paint over? and 2. Was that Acrylic paint or enamel? I started painting with acrylic and the paint just looks like crap.lol obviou noob here :)
Can someone explain why he panel lined bare plastic before adding surfacer? Not only is that risky as it can break plastic but also it got completely covered by the purple basecoat didn't it?
Yeah I’m really curious about that too. My experience is even a small amount of enamel directly on the plastic without some coating in between will corrode it and result in cracking?
@@robotoyworldit only cracks plastic when it’s able to pool in between parts. If you panel line on the runner, when the parts are unassembled, or carefully when assembled you’re fine w/o a topcoat
Leave the paint cured couple of days before plawing with it. But paint scratches will happen if you move the kit too much after paint. Usually after paint and photoshoot session, i never play with the kit anymore. Put it in the shelf and display it
I was wondering this, as well... I'm sure with the right mid- and top-coat the black will show through a bit, but seems like an odd order to do things.
@@MekaRamen when I'm not painting, panel lining on bare plastic has only really caused me cracking issues on 2 of well over 200-300 kits. Scribing does seem to increase risk by exposing the inner plastic. Not sure why it matters, but it definitely has in my experience with some test parts.
But poor people like me still wouldn’t want to take my chances on kits that’s hard to get, I cracked my Aerial and forever scarred. But I understand that he panel line before assembly, that should avoid pooling. Still, I hope to hear from OP as to why he panel line before any paint job.
Probably for the color to be maintained. The panel lining will still show through, especially on airbrushing, since the coat layers are so thin. They probably went back and redid the panel accent a second time at the end.