titanium man i pulled the cam yesterday put a new one in the rocker shaft has a gruve wair the ball rides so it's not alowing it to roll over i ordered a new cam and rockerarm ""aftermarket"" it seemed to roll over by hand real easy but i have to get a new started drive gear i all so put up 3 videos 2002 polaris ranger just figured id add to the polaris ranger people thank you... ever thing you said was correct on timeing the 500 thanks again
Awesome video. Do you really get more power by replacing the camshaft? I have a 2002 Polaris Ranger 500 4x4 . Runs great. Needs couple things to get fix like a gasket between the cylinder and carburetor boot. And parking brake doesn’t work at all. I heard in RU-vid that Polaris 500 has a bad design camshaft
So all the scramblers after 1997 were supposedly H.O. and the 97 was not acording to most people. I have a 1997 and Im looking at replaceing the cam and every seller has the cams listed to fit 97-03 and some sellers have it listed as fitting every 500 model. So my question is for the people that say replacing the cam and carb will make a non H.O. into an H.O. are we sure it not just the carb that needs replaced to accomplish that? It seems to me that the cams are the same. At least they are being sold that way. I found only 1 place on amazon selling a legit 1997 scrambler only cam, and that was Caltric. Im confused, any help would be appreciated. I understand this is an older video. Thanks.
Would you post a video about the spring on the end of the camshaft and the thing that goes inside the camshaft, how it works, proper position of the spring, how to fix it if it doesn't hold tension ect ect ect. Mine doesn't hold tension and just flops around.
What was wrong with the camshaft? Can you show more accurately and specifically what you are doing and why, please? How do you fix an oil leak into the exhaust manifold and what is the cause of this situation? Kind regards, Franklin
I reshot this video because the first video was a little shaky. There was nothing wrong with the cam in this video. I had to replace the head gasket. The reason your exhaust manifold has oil in it could be 2 reasons. 1) Exhaust valve seals leaking. 2) Head gasket is leaking or oil ring on piston is bad and oil is blowing past piston and out exhaust.
When installing my cam after inspection, the compression release mechanism and spring came out of the cam. Do you have a video where you show the correct way to set the mechanism and spring?
No I don't. If the mechanism came apart I would do a visual on another that I had laying around. See if you can google a picture of it. That's what I do.
Hello, problem with my compression I have way to much, let me explain , pull start is still very hard even after changing the cam shaft redoing the timing dead center all three steps shown in your videos, would you have any idea why and what to do.
is this really all you need to change to make it an HO? I'm having issues with my motor holding an idle and it bogs and pops under acceleration. I've done some reading and have found that this is one of the more common issues with this engine. is there anyway to just inspect the cam without removing it to see if its bad or do i need to remove it and use calipers to measure lobes? thanks in advance and great video man!
As far a the cam goes. Yes. It's the only way to inspect it. Sounds like it's running lean causing it pop and backfire. Those carbs are tricky. If the airbox isn't sealed correctly or cracked carb boot, even the hoses to the box. If they are plugged or cracked it makes it run bad. Try a carb rebuild kit and check for air leaks first. I replaced the carb on another 500 I had. It solved the problem. If you go HO. I forgot to mention a bigger exhaust too. The engine would get to hot without it.
@@TitaniummanGarage I've tried with the air box and filter on and off. almost same results. i also noticed that when i would have it running and would give it throttle it would actually blow gas into the air box from the carb side, which i also heard was cam issue. so I'm kind of lost here. i know it is an aftermarket carb but I've worked with carbs on other bikes before, and i took this one apart and cleaned it and re adjusted everything and its continuing to do the same thing.
Sounds like it's a cam . Exhaust valves not opening up. Take the rocker cover off. You can see the cam from there. Did you see my video on how to replace the cam?
I have a 2013 500HO. There's a horrible rattle on the top right side of the top end of the engine. It runs pretty good, I'm the original owner, it has under 1,000 miles and like 110 hours on it. Always bene garaged and what I feel is well maintained. I've always followed the manual and used polaris oils. Any suggestions on what to check?
I would pull the recoil cover..or pull start cover off and check your starter bendix gear. they rattle when they get weak and don't retract all the way
I bought a Polaris 500, and it spits out the carb intake, pops/backfires, never runs. The cam lobes look fine, but I'm trying to verify the timing. Is there a difference between TDC and TDC on the compression stroke? I'm thinking that my timing is off, even though all the marks line up.
If you can..pull the sparkplug and put a thin screwdriver down the hole with gas tank out. move flywheel till the piston it all the way to the top. Yeah, if its spitting out the carb sounds like a timing issue. I had that problem on a magnum 500. I double checked everything and it was right on. I replaced the carb and made sure my vacuum lines to case and oil fill didn't have cracks in it(They did) and sealed the air box. those cause backfire issues. too much air to the carb. It worked.
@@TitaniummanGarage Yes, I did try the screwdriver trick, but all my vacuum lines /air box are disconnected, I'm just trying to get it running. I'll replace the lines and give it a try, thanks
Where does the oil line hose plug in at, mine was off, replaced cam and rockers, won't start popped once, hate to put it all back togather and have to pull it all back off, i cleaned my carb, ordered a new one waiting on it, i think my timing it out, but i had my marks lined up, wired my gear where the chain didnt move, the cam only goes in one way, adjusted rockers, still won't start, i was wondering if it had a extra stroke also, did the screw driver thing til it raised itself, stumped..
i think you have a few unanswerd question and i have the same question.. i all ready have good compreshion and i cant get it to go past compershion WTF .... 4 starters 4 starter drive gears 3 senolides.. this thing is pissing me off ..
Yup. I have a scrambler like that. And I just fixed a sportsman like that as well. I narrowed it down to 2 things. 1) depending on what cam you used, aftermarket? Or the rockers the decompression ball sometimes sticks. I dont use aftermarket cams. 2) I had 2 different cams. The first one I installed...still hard to pull. Smoked the starter. I pulled the cam out and checked the head. The head was warn where the cam slides into and was making the cam hard to turn. I then grabbed a used cam within its mechanic limits yet and installed it. It pulled right over with the rope easy. Started easy with the starter. So its rather the cam you put in or the head. I know that's not what you want to hear.
Also double check your valve lash and timing after it has been run. The chain could be stretched a little and will throw off the timing after you adjusted it and then ran it.
Where on ebay did you buy the cam an carb? I have a 1999 that my grandpa bought brand new the high gear clutches have vent out but it only has 2800 miles do you think this would be a worth while upgrade with a clutch kit?
If you want more speed it might be worth the clutch kit. I did this about 2 years ago. There are better camshaft kits out there now then when I did it. You just have to look around on e bay.If your installing the H.O. carb don't forget to order the right head to carb boot.
I just completed this exact thing on my 1996 Polaris sportsman 500 but now its extremely hard to pull the recoil and and electric start pauses then it starts to roll over. But when it does start it runs great. I wish I could send you the video of what it's doing but I can't seem to attach it. Thanks for any advice
I know exactly. I had 2 do that. It's the decompression ball on the cam. If it sticks or the weight on the end doesn't function properly it stays open or out. If you pull the pull rope past that.it will pull over. I would take the cam out and inspect it. The little ball on the cam should move in and out.
I inspected the new cam and that ball goes up and down. Is there a certain way I need to put that spring pin in? I may have something wrong but Im just not sure what. Would the valve adjustment have anything to do with it?
If my exhaust rocker arm has a small Groove where the decompression ball on the cam is should I replace the cam and rocker arms or is it still useable? Thank you
It depends how deep. I've gotten away with not replacing it. But it should be replaced. You might have a hard time starting it when temperatures drop down below 25 degrees.
No. You can put a H.O carb and intake boot on too. Just keep an eye on the exhaust. H.o. exhaust was bigger. So if the pipe starts turning red on long rides you might have to change the pipe. I never trail rode mine so never had an issue.
HI Thank you for the video, I just finished putting the cam in my 1999, fired it up and it runs good and idles good but knocks from under the valve/cam cover really loud, I coated the cam and rockers in oil before I installed them. I also cleaned out the little pockets of oil that was resting in the head. was I not supposed to do that? should I take the cover back off and add some oil? Thanks
No..its fine that you cleaned it up. There is a small hole by the cam that will circulate oil back up to the cam and rockers. I would take the cover off. make sure its getting oil. If there is oil in those pocket again..that's good. It means your getting oil up there. Double check your valve lash. sometimes it changes after it has been ran and the tensioner moves in more. I've heard those year sometimes the valves need to be redone. excessive wear and what not. could be a bent valve too.
@@TitaniummanGarage Thank you Sir! It's like twice the bike! I think it was a number of things, The kit I bought from ebay had the cam, rockers and the chain tensioner. I had used the original chain tensioner because the new one didn't have a new gasket. When I took it out today, I noticed the spring in the new tensioner was about an inch longer. maybe the old one was worn and shorter? Also when I took off the valve cover I noticed at TDC the intake rockers were really tight and way out of spec. I took the cam out and started over and used the new cam and exhaust rocker, but used the old intake rockers which were in great shape, Bike only has 1000 miles. Used molylube assembly grease for cam and oiled everything before putting it back together. Set the valves at .006 checked and checked them again. Spun the flywheel twice checked again! Runs like new. I would have NEVER tried this without your video. Thank you for your quality teaching, you saved me like $500 in labor! You Rock Man
@@marcmelissa8752 That's Awesome. I like hearing stories like that. Good Job. I had to do the same on one of mine. The rockers that came with the kit were made poorly. I reused the old ones with the new cam. Worked great.
Hey, I have one of these Polaris 500s and it’s really really tough to pull the start rope and when I use the starter i have to hold it and eventually it starts to turn over. Works better if I help the starter and pull the time at the same time. Do you know why it might be like that? Is there a compression relief valve anywhere?
Yes, that's your problem. It's on the cam. They are known to get stuck in the out or open position. Take the rocker cover off. You might be able to spray pb blaster or WD 40 on it to free it up..or replace the cam.
@@TitaniummanGarage If it gets stuck in the open position would it respond by giving me a crank/no start with around 40PSI compression? I am finding LOTS of people with the hard start/slow crank symptom, but i am having no issues cranking at all... Before i pull everything off and do a top end rebuild I want to find someone that can answer this question, and you seem to be the closest to an answer here
@@joshuadavidson1967 Because of the decompression ball on the cam you will only read 35 to 40 psi. If its stuck it will still start. It will be hard to crank with electric starter. Just pull the pull rope slowly till it get hard to pull. then pull it past that point.(past decompression ball) it should start. It could be your cdi giving you the issue. what year is it?
