In between waiting for your new videos weekly ive been bingeing your old builds. You have tons of talent and i like the fact that you have a humble approach. Great builds and great content!!!
They are hard to get running the CBR600 after work and sitting for while but after that first, hurdle they are great engine's, You shouldn't turn the engine with no oil, and always give a manual turn before a first start coat all the parts. Great vid yet again Chris.
even after flushing and cleaning the cooling circuit , you will have oily scum floating in the top of radiator,, could try dipping a rag in the coolant fill a number of times over a few weeks,, may help soak up some of it,,, or keep flushing the system after use when the engine is still warm...... I beleive that place your looking for is called The Freedom Factory
a few teaspoons of DAWN dish soap in the coolant (water for now) will help clean up the oil in the cooling system, run it in there, warm it up, drain it, repeat this process a few times then see if the coolant is still oily.....
I hope after all that work that you did, your fluid mixture problem is done for. I've had to time no less than 75 Yamaha 4-stroke waverunners in my career as a marine tech. and I've always used the thin wire trick to find TDC, has always worked great for me. Thanx for another great video brother and again hopefully that takes care of your problem 👍👍
Chris, the reverse trike looks so good when moving it looks like an arrow, are you going to dress it up with side panels bonnet etc? I hope you reconsider licencing it or at least put it on a track, maybe have a talk to Cleetus Mcfarland on using the freedom factory? Or maybe a drag strip? Well done Chris proud of you mate Tony from Western Australia.
@@devil6spawn I was thinking more of the circuit of the track but the drift track would work. My main preference would be put some clothes on it get it rego'd and use it as a daily driver saving his truck for when it is specifically needed .
Well the way he's truck is I would say he could do with it but he's go so many off rd stuff it is about time for something on rd yes but can you see grand hard plumbing rather b welding cars and cameras red beard all there doing a real race I know I would like to see it
Maybe said many times already but after you swap head gasket and you have had milkshake in your system, it takes few heat cycles and coolant changes to normalize. Of course there is remnants of the contaminated water in the system. Also, Please keep this street. Even consider making it street legal. Its too low and wide for off-road and you have many off-road vehicles already! And it looks so damn good when going fast past that low! :) Great episode, can't wait for more! Keep it up!
Its good to see you not being afraid of the throttle these days... That thing looks like a blast. Definitely go street legal. Your tires will do just fine on the road (brake issue). This would have great resale value if you can get it street legal. Off road isn't gong to do very well unless you rebuild those front A-arms. (I would bet that the pitted oil cooler was the problem)
Use the Crv electric power steering. It’s just power and ground that’s it. It’s the steering column no fluid needed. Or Toyota Prius has a similar setup. And no please keep it for the street everything you make is for off road.
I would like to see it stay street style. You do a lot of off road projects already and it hasn't been designed for off roading from the start. Just consider the width of the front in the woods on a trail. One idea might be to turn it into a desert / sand buggy with a paddle tire in the back. Maybe even throw some skies on the front for some winter antics.
Love watching your videos. A very talented builder, keep them coming. I wonder if you gave the valves a bit of a clean before putting the head back on. If you had water in the sump, there may have been some staining on the valve seats. Keep up the good work.
I think I know what your next mini project should be, a tow kart. something small with all the traction and all the gearing to pull your builds around so that you don't have to be pushing them around all the time.
I know your next project , grab a small atv and make it into a yard tow truck so you dont have to push and pull your projects in and out of shop , just make sure it has reverse and your good to go . Just a thought ...oh and i love that you show your mess ups , shows your just like the rest of us , we some times loose sight of that because yours skills are top notch when you build its hard to believe after all the great builds you still mess up👍👍
Set it up for street! It won’t be hard to register. Register it as the r1 the motor came off of if you have that title. Other wise copy all your receipts, take pictures of all your brakes and suspension and the serial number off the motor and send it in as a home built/ custom vehicle and they will issue a new registration for it. All they care is that it is safe to drive, you paid for all the parts, and that the engine was manufactured for on road use. It will be fine! Its coming along great, keep it up! There are several road coarse tracks that will let you drive it on regular track days, just have to have some safety equipment and pass tech.
There are many street legal classifications that you might be able to get that thing certified under but it would require things like lights and signals. When it comes to converting that thing to off-road, I think that would be more of a pain than anything else.
Looks like it goes great! I made mine off-road with a really wide rear tyre hopefully going next video! I think maybe you should get it road legal. You will be able to drive it a lot more, I don’t think I could get mine legal because the rear tyre is so wide(speedway tyre).
Have worked on a few of these. If there’s water back in the engine oil, check the water pump shaft seal behind the impeller. That’s most likely your culprit. And as others have said, doesn’t sound like it’s running on all 4. Use temp gun on the header, or spray with water bottle after warmed up for a couple min.
If you lived in the Detroit area, we could find you many places to test anything you could build. We even have an abandoned concrete velodrome. Dorais Park (Can get up to 50/60mph on it in the straights, on bikes at least) Sitting there idling higher like that, it sounds like a very quiet WRC car.
If you are very, very, very careful you can use dish soap in the cooling system to get the oil out of it. A small drop of dish soap in the radiator then leave the rad cap off and run the engine for a couple of minutes. It is going to foam a lot and will overheat the engine if you run it to long but once done the oil will be out and you should be good to go. I think all you needed to do was replace the oil cooler but not being there to see the old head gasket I could be wrong. Great fix
Use cascade dishwashing liquid to flush the cooling system. It is what we used at a Kenworth dealer I use to work at. We used a whole bottle for a 12 gallon system. So you don't need much. It does a great job of getting the oil out.
I really would like to see a workshop build soon. I feel like the one you have does not do your skills justice. and it would be fun to see a little bit of a different project
Off road vehicle would be of most use to you I reckon. Anything with decent pavement is either a race track, private land, or you need license and registration. Also maybe speak to Cleetus McFarland about a collaboration as they bought their own track?
You should definitely flush both the coolant and oil a couple of times to clean that stuff out. Also, that thing doesn't sound like it's running on all four cylinders. Might want to get a temp gun and check the temps on each header tube while it's running and see if they are all the same, or at least close to it. I'm betting you're gonna find one that isn't firing. Just a thought.
140 wide adventure style uniform tyres to the front, and 275 minimum at the back. Even with paddles, necessary for sand launches, 275 is needed to get the grip. Otherwise it's just skating in any surface. Uniform(suitable for front&back) adventure thread is best for wear, and doesn't need pulling to form grip. 140 - 165 x2 will keep the front end at float, depending on the thread pattern, even on water. +45 mph entering speed,
with tightening the head down you really want to start from the center either top or bottom row, and then work in a clockwise manner otherwise the head may not seat properly. as in it will warp the gasket/and or the head. or at least what I was taught in car maintenance course.
also there is 2 top dead centres for each piston on a 4 stroke engine, 1 is at the end of the exhaust stroke, and then the other is compression stroke. but yes it is always find top dead centre of piston 1.
also you always want to check for markings on the engine before taking the timing belt off, either that or use a marker or some chalk. and then rub it off after.
with that I mean mark both the engine block plus all the cogs that are connected to the chain. it doesn't have to be a specific location on the cogs and engine block, just as long as all the marks are in line before you remove the timing belt. and put back to exactly the same location and still inline when you have replaced the timing chain.
I tried to suggest using some sheinko dual sport tires awhile back. My son runs them on his WR250 and they have pretty good road manners , and they would look badass on it
STREET! Nothing you named takes that much work. It’ll be way worth it the first time your sitting at a light and get to quick launch. Or pulling on the freeway.. just do it! Mirrors, small windscreen, signals and lights.. super super easy!
I'm in my university's Formula SAE team. We use a 2008 CBR 600 RR engine that wasn't started up for pretty much a year and a half cause of the pandemic. Man the pain we went through to get it started again. We ended up having to replace the battery and change the spark timing on our ECU and it still runs pretty rough. It also throws some white smoke out the back, but we dont know if its a blown head gasket or if it might be burning off some debris, cause the intake valves were exposed and only covered with an old rag. Let's hope it's the latter.
Hey man, great channel! Curious thought, why don’t you set up a little station/stand where you can test these engines and fix them before you build a project around them? Seems like with every one of these build series; you have numerous undertakings to fix the engines. Might shorten the build videos by a couple installations but you could also have a videos based around the engine resto first, as a teaser for a new build and let viewers speculate. Anyway, do what works for you because it’s easy for viewers like me to scrutinize from a distance. I’ll be watching either way! Cheers!
"Next time" you're into the timing chain / gears thing, do this before you remove them: tie the chain to the camshaft gears, just one tight tie so the chain can't disengage from the gear teeth, with a zip strip or coat-hanger wire. If any gear has no hole, tie the chain together with the gear wrapped inside, again so it can't come off the teeth. Then at reinstall, when the gears are lined up on their shaft key-ways you have the timing relationship you had when you took it off.
For the tilting mechanism what if you made some knuckles that had the top hinge offset toward the back so when you stared the wheel would camber into the corner.
I wasn't first here since I was racing the complete Nurburgring (both Nordschleife and Sudschleife combined) in an electric Miura when the notification came in. But I'm here now!
get ahold of Cleetus and see if you can play on the skid pad at the freedom factory, i'm sure they'd have a hoot seeing that thing rip around the track
Watching you struggle pushing around projects or after the battery issue.. Have you considered making a Tugger or Trailer Dolly that's Motorized? If you break down you can run and get it Hook up and it can tow you back vs mini bike towing.. Also help get stuf moved around easier.
