When changing bearings pull inner seals out of bearings drill a 6:40 hole an tap for a grease fitting you get four plus times more usage being able to grease bearings yearly
Very helpful. I just did my last cut of the season with my Elite 60". This is my fourth year on this mower and I mow, weekly, a 9 acre "rough" yard. i.e. a lot of hills and bumpy ground. Halfway through the cut I noticed a droning sound coming from the deck. That is, when I disengaged the blades the sound went away. Looks like I'll finally be replacing some bearings. Great video. Thanks!
@@austinb4254 to quote Indiana Jones, it's not the year is baby, it's the miles. It currently has about 600 hours on it, and a lot of my yard is almost like bush Hogging. That is, it can be quite bumpy at times and on several occasions I've hit things like a chunk of rebar sticking out of the ground. And of course there's always the odd length of old barbed wire fence in the dirt. And I've had replaced two of those black bars that swing down from the frame to connect to the deck to keep it from moving forwards and backwards. It's because of things like sliding down a small piece of Hill and catching that on a sapling and the whole mower just stops in his tracks. That's why I now have three extra of the swing bars. Bottom line is, though this nor had a couple of problems that it shouldn't have had, one being a manufacturing defect in the other being a design defect, I don't complain because it is really held up to the kind of treatment I've given I just see this really important to keep the lube, and filters and everything like that maintained. Frankly, I think it's served me a lot better than my son's exmark has served him.
@@ReasonablySane Thank you for your explanation. I myself have a rough yard and a 2016 badboy outlaw xp. I don't need spindles yet . but may look into replaceing bearings. before needed.
hey dude ive got a bad boy zt pro with a 60 in deck ive had it 11 years and still running the same spindels i hope they keep on going to o yea im cutting 2 acers a week with her i love my BAD BOY
6206 is a common bearing 2 means 2 seals. I'll be removing blade spindles, front pivots, and wheel bearings s, popping out on seal, installing grease zerks and using synthetic grease. Sad for a $4000 mower.
My MZ used to eat bearings before l started using spanner wrench on the pulley to hold the spindle to loosen or tighten the blade. I know manual says to hold the upper bolt but it overtorqs the bearings when you do that. There are 2 holes on them pulleys for spanner and l am 100% certain thats how they assemble them in factory.
Unless the mfgr forgot to install the spacer inside the housing between the bearings' inner races, there is no way to over tighten and damage the bearing. On mine there is a big thick walled bearing spacer. The spacer is necessary to prevent pulling the bearing covers into the housing. The spindle collar set screw should only be tightened after the top pulley bolt/lock washer and Belleville washer have been tightened.
Also....do not assume your spindle uses the 6206 2RS c3 noted in the video. These are single row ball bearings. My 2009 Lightning 54" deck uses 5206 2RS, double row angular contact bearings...much beefier. Chinese bearings are OEM but pop the seals and shove that high temp bearing grease down into the space around the outside of the ball carrier until about 50% full (do not pack 100% full.....too much lube causes the ball to skid vice roll). Doesn't hurt to soak the bearings in some brake cleaner and blow out the old dried grease beforehand. Since these operate 7700 rpm and below grease. If the operation was above 7700 oil would be the preferred lubricant (Koyo bearing tech specs).
The polyurethane you keep referring to is removable and does NOT hold the Bearing together. If you wanted to make the Tower/Spindle Greaseable, you can remove the Polyurethane on the bearings and drill the Spindle/Tower housing for a Grease fitting to be used. The reason the Polyurethane is on the bearings is to keep debris from getting into the bearing. If you did in fact notice the new Bearings aren't packed with grease. For the Top Bearing remove the bottom Polyurethane covering and opposite of the Bottom Bearing. This will allow grease into the Bearings and allow you to grease the Spindles/Towers and cut down on replacing the Bearings by allowing you to grease them. All Lawn Mower Makers do this with their Bearings to make you buy parts for them. You cannot get grease into the Bearings with that Polyurethane covering on the Bearings and without the grease for the Bearings it will allow them to burn up even with little or no Hours on them.
@@bryanmontgomery4050 Yes it will keep grease from the bearings. I've fixed too many of them without grease from that dust seal. You can fill the tower/spindle full and no grease will enter the bearing with the dust covers on. Best thing to do is pack the bearings leaving the dust seal on the bottom bearing on the bottom and the top bearing on top. You want grease to be able to enter the bearings.
I am not able to find the previous video of removing the spindle. I have a 2011 PRO 27 ZT 60" and need to see that video if you could reload it would be greatly appreciated. Having problems getting the pulleys off. Please advise. Thank you
I have a Cub Cadet "Tank" with a Honda motor, on its 17th year, change oil and blades, never once had a bearing issue and I run the crap out of it cutting thick brush and grass, keeps ticking (2 acres 3x a month). My brother has a Bad Boy Elite and cuts like golf course grass, cleans it after every mow like a classic car and has had to change the spindles twice in 4 years.
If he's using water to wash it he's doing them in faster. Water is a mowers enemy. I used compressed air and a rag. If I ever had to hose it off or pressure wash it, I would start it up right after and engage the blades for a minute or so to keep water from setting anywhere. Drive it around all erratic, kinda like a wet dog shaking off. And the older mowers had grease zerks for those of us that would use them. Make a bearing last.
I know this video has been up for awhile but I added grease fittings in the spindle and removed the inner seal on the spindle bearings also look at your front wheel bearings they have a grease fitting with double seal bearings so no grease will get into the bearing
you should have removed the seal on the new bearing, they only have about a finger tip of grease on one side of the bearing. I use Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease, not sure if that is the best type of grease for these bearing but it has worked great for me for years, and never hammer on the inner race of the bearing if you are planning to reuse it or on a new bearing. a socket that fits the outer race is a great way to hammer or press it in or out.
I wasn't planning on saving those old bearings so wasn't too worried about tapping them out of place. The new bearings held up well until I sold the mower. Hopefully still going strong for the next guy.
@@msclecarcrzy if I was out shopping for another mower I would look at bad boy just as seriously as any other brand. If the feature set and price are right I wouldn't hesitate to go with one of their mowers.
Thanks again for making this video..... it seems weird that the spindle doesn't have any grease in it, and the bearings (I just got a few sets) don't really look like much, for the "force and speed" of the blade shaft spinning around so fast, but I am not an Engineer! My noises were different on each spindle - it seems to me that any noise is not a good noise, though, and will rebuild a few this winter, after I use the mower a few more times. My mower is not even a year old, and seems very solid, otherwise, but I don't know how I feel about this spindle setup. Do you know the typical (standard) life-expectancy of these little bearings?
Could you drill and tap a hole for a grease zerk in the side of that housing, I know the grease would not lube the bearings, but filling that cavity with grease might lower the housing noise level. I have a new elite 54” mower and when the blades are Turing the noise level is 94-95 decibels which I think is too high, I have to use ear plugs and (30 decibel reduction ear muffs) to comfortably run the mower, Mower has approximately 7 hours , never thought a new mower would be that loud, How loud is your mower when mowing? Good review on bearings,
pop those inner seals out drill a hole put a fitting pack the housing with grease slap it back together and youre good to go and do the same thing with the front wheel bearings they should last forever if you keep them greased.
I'd take that little plastic cover off of the inside side of the new bearings. If you don't all the grease you pump into the housing ( if you have fitting) will never get to the bearings!!!! Why depend on the small amount of cheap china grease in those sealed bearings????
@@LaidBackLawnCare I asked another question also: my two outside spindles are silver. Do they also have set screws that you need to remove. Also can you tell me how to clear the change oil code, clean filter and adjust valve codes. Thought they might clearmlike a car by disconnecting the battery but no luck. Thanks, Gary
@@garymagliocca2913 all the pullys should have the keys to keep them from spinning freely on the shaft. As far as the codes go my Maverick didn't display codes so I'm not sure how to clear them.
@michaelwillcutt2619 the common person working on the mower will have a set of sockets and a screwdriver to replace bearings that cost all of 5 bucks each. The average person isn't going to have a tap set or greasegun. It's far easier to just pop a seal off a new bearing, load a bit more grease by hand and seal it back up.
@@mikezupancic2182 harbor freight small grease gun kit with a tube of grease drill bit tap kit is cheap compared to time and parts cost Especially if you’re replacing all spindle bears