Great video. Especially the attention to correct alignment of planetary gears. 🙂 The Bafang G.320.XXX / G.32 ( oem ) frontmotor is almost identical, but easier to take apart since the motor exits the hub in the same side as the cable thru a cover.
It’s called an IPM motor,, internal permanent magnet. Very fast and powerful, efficient too. I had no idea they were being used on hub motors! Good video!
Hi guy, thank you very much for your video; it’s really helpful; I’d like to ask you where can I buy a new cable motor replacement for my SAMEBIKE 20LVXD30? Sorry for my question, cheers!
Concerning reassembly, something not mentioned in the video is that the axle can only be installed over the planet gears in 1 of 3 possible rotational orientations. If installed in the wrong orientation the flats that accept the torque arms won't align on both ends of the axle and the torque arms will be rotated in different positions making install in the dropouts impossible. When positioning the axle over the planet gears, momentarily install the torque arms on the ends if both axles and make sure they align before continuing with assembly :)
Yep, found this out the hard way as well and had to dis- and reassemble after the wheel wouldn't get back in. Here's what this looks like on the Surface 604 Shred (the golden bar mark needs to point to the Bafang logo): ibb.co/WPcBnMg .
This motor advantage is 2,5 kg - light. But it have 11to1 reduction ratio. So faster RPM, higher hysteresis losses and higher edge looses. So it max efficienty can by 83 precents.
I have a 750W bafan M155. The cable comes out opposite end of this motor. The motor cannot be removed from the hub without getting the main (big) planetary ring gear out of the hub. How do you get the big planetary main ring out of the hub?
Just assembled my 48V 500W Bafang Rear Hub motor kit but the Speedometer and Odometer are not reading on my DPC1 display. I've tried a different display 860C and it's doing the same. All connectors are intact and tight. Q: What sort of defect am I looking for on the Hall Sensor on the outer side or inner side of the hub? How do I repair it? Which colored wire should I check for a bad connection? Thanks for your help.
Hi !!! Can you say me if the case of Bafang 250 W has same size like the case of 500 w ? Can I include inside components of 500 w in the case of 250 w Bafang Motor !? Thank you
hi my Bafang RM G060.750.DC 750w rear hub motor planetary gear broke down, I can't find the exact size of them to order cause i don not know what size to order do you know what is the size of the planetary gears inside of the bafang 750w -- RM G060.750.DC 750w ? diameter thickness and number of teeth?
… assuming not everyone has a three jaw gear puller does not absolve you from explaining how one who does have one rets it on the axle on the cable side and pull the cover… right?
I assume those are DC motors. To have permanent magnets as rotating fields and the armature stationary, makes them brushless motors, i.e. no commutator or brushes required. One disadvantage for PM motors is excessive heat that could demagnetize the PM's and effect torque and power negatively.
Brushed DC motors haven' been used in ebikes in ages. I think the last model we saw was circa 2004-2005 period. Everything is BLDC and has been for almost 2 decades. And yes, too much heat from reckless use and lack of thermal rollback can cause demagnetization, softening of the adhesive, or cooking of the enamel on the stator windings. We've seen all 3. If you are pushing motors beyond their design limits, you want to take advantage of the thermistor in the motor to monitor the temp and do rollback if needed.
@@GrinTechnologies Yeah thanks for the clarification. I worked on lots of DC drives and motors up to 3000Hp, shunt field, series field, compound and brushless, all industrial. However, they're getting less and less as AC Drives/motors have mostly taken over. At least we won't have to change brushes and rework the commutator anymore.
The nylon gears do have grease on them, but if you used this Bafang motor under a heavy load for years it's possible the gears need replacing which is not a very hard job. You don't even have to delace the motor to open it up and you don't need a gear puller either. I'd say definitely open her up!
Generally none. There is a bit of grease installed at the factory and that's sufficient for the life of the motor. The nylon gears do not need grease the same way metal on metal gears do.
MXUS XF and the many other copies and clones of conventional straight cut geared motors are definitely cheaper. They perform just fine with decent efficiency but they do make a buzzing noise while they run and are a little heavier since they don't have as high a gear reduction. If your main goal is price then those motors make most sense, but if you value silky-smoothness then the premium G310/G311 models are worth it in our opinion.
I have just received a G310 motor from Grin only to discover it has an unacceptable amount of side to side play. With a normal wheel this could be easily solved with some cone spanners. But the solution is not immediately obvious (to me) with the Bafang. Is it solveable? If so, how?
In general most of these hub motors will have various thin brass 'shim' washers on the axle inside the motor assembly, and it's possible in the factory fitment on the motor that you got that the shim washer wasn't sized correctly or was omitted. Best to send us an email and quantify the the amount of play that you are seeing at the rim and at the hub itself.
@@GrinTechnologies Thanks for replying. Yes, after opening the motor myself I thought that might be the cause. My motor has only two washers inside, each a quarter of a mm thick with 15mm ID. I have bought some steel washers of various thicknesses which I will use to try and eliminate the play.
@Grin Technologies Hello, I just saw your video and I have a question , if you can help me. Recently I received an Flyer E-Bike F Series (made 2000-2003) and I wonder if you can help me with repair . It doesn't have tork but battery is perfect . The bike have mid hub motor that I can't find anywhere on internet . Regards.
Unfortunately we only deal with hub motors, not mid-drives. The old Flyer ebike (that one really is a classic!) may even be running a brushed DC motor rather than a BLDC based on that vintage. Take it apart and enjoy the learning process!
@@GrinTechnologies thanks, is it possible to lace a regular rim on a fatbike Bafang 1000w front hub motor (135mm axle) in order to fit in on a 135mm rear dropouts frame (wheeler evo 1.0 ebike) or a Stromer ebike frame no cassette, no singlespeed sprocket, no chain, no pas, just an e-moped with throttle ... like the Bird Scoot Electric Scooter Bike I dont like fatbikes, but I love that geared Bafang 1000w hub motor 😆
Dont know if anyone can help, when I turn the pedal,the chain moves the cassette, but the cassette is not latching into anything, so it just turns the cassette without turning the wheel. The motor still work, so it is moving without the cassette moving the wheel at all ...
Good question, it's actually connected to the ring gear in these motors. So the overrunning clutch is in the shell of the motor, and the inside of this clutch is the ring gear that mates with the planet assembly that you do see.
Those security torx screws on the outer shell of the g311 strip really easily it seems and don’t want to lock when you screw them back in. Am I doing something wrong?
Is it possible that you're using one size too small for the torx driver? We find that they usually disassemble and reassemble cleanly without any issues, using a lower power 12V impact driver, and have opened and reworked hundreds of motors now to pre-emptively reglue the magnets.
Grin Technologies sorry not the screws themselves but the threads in the shell where the security torx screws go in. I’m using a T20 and they get slightly tighter near where they bottom out but then don’t catch and just spin endlessly. I noticed some spiral metal shaving on the threads of the torqx screws themselves indicating to me the internal thread was stripping off. Not really sure what to do (loctite blue was my next idea). Is it possible the wrong size screws were used when the mags were glued on?
@@ihasmax Ah I see, yeah in that case it sounds like the internal shell threads are a bit damaged. Usually the best solution in these situations is to retap the hole and use a helicoil insert which will provide super strong steel threads instead of the aluminum. At our shop we keep M4, M5 and M6 helicoil kits on hand for this kind of repair.
@@GrinTechnologies Thanks, good to know that's a solution should I need it! I ended up using a slightly longer screw (8mm I believe) and was able to catch some threads enough to feel confident in the plate staying on for now.
Hi do you know where in uk I can buy a Bafang or mx front hub motor 26inch mountain bike wheel.i have my rim .my battery is Samsung 14s 5p 25r cells .53 volts max
