Очень интересно. И какое внимание к деталям тут показывает автор? Он даже не проверил ёмкость каждой банки чтобы совместить аккумуляторы. И я уже не хочу говорить о том, что автор даже не проверил напряжение. Начав паяльные работы и никелевой лентой, замкнув контакты разряженных аккумуляторов с самым заряженным, произойдёт лавинное нарастание тока как при коротком замыкании. Напряжение будет стремиться уравновесится во всей секции. И произойдёт хороший фейерверк😂 Но если аккумулятор выдержит нагрев, то внутри него сработает защитная мембрана от нагрева, чтобы аккумулятор не взорвался. И аккумулятор будет испорчен! Я откровенно не увидел внимания к электротехническим деталям. 🥱
@@EVCustoms I am trying to rebuild a battery, the cells are all good and everything, I got it from a friend who had tried to rewire it to plug into his bike but did a horrible job. I bought a new BMS and installed it doing everything you did (at least I think so) but no current is going through the BMS so I am not able to charge the battery. I checked all the leads individually on the plug going into the BMS like shown in your video and the voltage is correct across it starting at 3.** Leading up to 48.** But when I check the voltage at the charge and discharge cables it reads 0.0 Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Hi. I really enjoyed the video. I have two questions, why did you connect 6 and 12 in parallel with a nickel plate? Also, why did you solder the input wiring 3 times? I'd really appreciate it if you could answer.
Everything excellent. The only stop I would do additionally is rap the pack in gold electrical insulator tape and side insulators to prevent get damage on the battery for vibrations or friction. Also I like to add an additional active BMS. Thanks for the video.
@@EVCustoms Unless they are in bad shape, not. I will turn it on every few uses or as soon as the pack go out of balance. I like to use the smart active balancers so I can monitoring the cells on my cellphone. You can get a really nice BMS like JK ones or Daly and have built in active balancer.
Hello, thank you for sharing your knowledge through your YT channel. May I ask if the batteries should be in any particular 'state of charge' before spot welding the assembly? That is, should they be fully or partially charged? Should they be of equal charge? Thank you again.
Very Informative! I want to know how can we detect a weak cell and a weak weld in the module? If we measure the voltage across the grouped cell it would give us the normal readings (because parallel). Same with resistance. So is there any way to detect that?
Is the "rated output" of the BMS the continuous and the "max output" the peak rating? Because you have a 60A pack, so I would guess the two numbers you gave were a constant and peak discharge rating for the BMS and then your controller is probably somewhat less than that? Or equal to? Not sure if people put super powerful controllers on and just let the BMS prevent them from pulling too much but that seems like it would lead to a bad bad time to have the BMS cut off while you're climbing a hill. I guess if the controller is programmable you could limit it to match your BMS/pack.
Looks like you're using 12AWG for the main output cables? Could be 10AWG but it seems a bit thin for the load you're specing this bike at. I know 12AWG silicone is capable of much higher amperage than THHN or any PVC insulated wire but I see most builders stay conservative and give some headroom with the main discharge cables. 50A would get those pretty warm if it could be maintained for a while but even some hard riding at 30-35A would be pretty stressful for this pack. Don't get me wrong this is a very very well built pack, it is insanely clean, looks like a machine made it I just would have gone with slightly thicker nickel (but you do have 6 series connections so you'd be ok with 0.15mm which is what I think you're using) and I would have probably used some 2P nickel on the pos and neg to have the other side of the H lay on the edge of the cell holders and just solder a 10AWG to that part of the nickel. Maybe you don't intend for this pack to get pushed hard at all, its just capable of that.
Tell me you have ADHD without telling me you have ADHD😂. Super neat build though. Thats exactly how every battery manufacturer should manufacture batteries. Most of them dont pay much attention on manufacturing especially like what we see here. And thus the batteries often malfunction,or worse ,catch fire. I would trust this guy with my life . As an Electronics Engineer,this was so satisfying to watch 👍🏻
Hello...i have a question... I make also same battery pack you made and same bms, but i make only 5p.If i connect only the discharge current of the battery pack i made to my original battery pack of my scooter as parallel, this will charge the also the battery pack i make if i charge the scooter?
Good question.. this is depends from the BMS, don't look that some BMS are exactly the same, they can be completely different.. to be sure you must discharge and charge the battery and see if the board can work like same port from the C- pin of the board... (not from P- pin)
Can an escooter's controller use 14s6p 52v 20ah battery when original battery is 48v 20ah 13s6p battery? Or must series and parallels be same or something?
That would depend on the control unit and you would have to check it out (Google it!) beforehand. Without knowing that, you could potentially fry it since it's one cell higher i capacity (3.7V, 4.2V when charging). Most units would probably be able to handle a bit of overvoltage, if and when you add another cell you're pushing the threshold a bit further and it may just be enough to break it if it's only rated for 56.4V (Which is the charge voltage for 48V). As for the capacity (the "P"), you can add as many cells in parallel you want.
This means output current of the battery is 3 times the capacity of the battery, so if we have 10Ah 36V battery pack, from this pack we can take safely 30Ah at the output..
Nice visual presentation. I do like your soldering technique on those wires. .. .. but BMS isn't needed. It has nothing to do with how you wired those balance wires but in reality the use of these BMSs don't actually work as advertised or how we have been taught in science. When the cells get joined in series and parallels as a pack they all get self-balanced even without the BMS. One thing the BMS will do is to discharge the battery on the negative and positive terminals while charging. It will spend more time charging because of this. There are a ton of disadvantages using the BMS but I won't mention them here cause it would take pages to cover that. I don't mean to offend you as you make great videos and take pride of your work but really, BMS isn't needed.
Hi, thanks mate. I agree with you on some points, yes on high capacity batteries you will have good balance, but only with brand batteries like Samsung LG Panasonic, again you need something to disconnect your battery from the load on low voltage, to not destroy the battery, you know that but other people didn't know when they must to stop discharge, to control it.
I have a 20s20p battery that I've built myself for my bike. 400 Samsung 30q cells bought new from reputable dealer. I've bought the smart bms from icgogo that everyone recommends when building a pack. When it got cold outside I parked the bike with just above half a charge in my storage that is at room temperature all the time to wait for warmer days to ride. Two months later I got an itch in my ass to check the bike,so i turn the key and nothing happened. Turns out that the bms balanced my battery to death and drained it to 12v. Nothing else is connected directly to the battery besides the bms. Everything else is connected after the contactor. I've managed to bring the battery back slowly to normal voltage using a bench power supply,not tested it yet on the bike but i think everything is ok because it's sitting at the same voltage for quite some time now. And the sad part is that i didn't even need the bms, I've done 3500km of really hard riding with the bike fully discharging then charging the battery to 84v with fast charger every 80km,so that's 40-45 cycles and the cells were never out of balance,i would check vigorously over the Bluetooth to see how the pack is doing,i was paranoid because it was the first big battery pack I've built. And every time they were perfectly balanced. So the next build I'm doing will definitely not have a bms connected to the pack,ill hook it up maybe once a year to check if the pack is out of balance. And I've seen a lot of similar stories online and a lot of them ended with a dead battery pack or even a house fire. And when i look at it now it doesn't even make sense to connect 30€ of crappy chinese electronics to a 1000€+ battery. It just doesn't. I wonder why no one filled that void in the market and produced a bms that actually works. It would sell like hot cakes in diy market.
@@Americadoe it will discharge the parallel group of cells on the positive and negative terminals through the resistor on the bms. But the resistors are so tiny and they can dissipate an insignificant amount of power so they can't balance one cell while charging let alone 5 or 10 connected in parallel. The only way to balance a pack with a chinese bms is to set it to balance manually after the charging,and it probably takes ages because their balancing current is pathetic.
