Bambu heard you about the wobbly top mount and added rear feet to the Official Model. A huge cardboard box over it allowed me to print ABS successfully. AWESOME MACHINE. AWESOME FOLLOW UP by you on the higher temp materials.
@@andreaspettersson3771 No idea the max safe temp inside the enclosure. I only did it once and never measured the temperatures. It was a small Customized Fan cover for another printer and was only a 2 and half hour print. Print came out great.
@@3DandTeePrinting /r/BambuLab/comments/18qi8hf/enclosure_suggestions_for_bambu_lab_a1_combo/ Bambu Lab claims enclosure is not recommended when using A1 Combo, although they do not provide any reasoning regarding this whatsoever. For people who prefer a "less raw" look (when putting this in a communal area I share with other people), are there any suggestions on how to make it look more discrete with an enclosure that might maybe not affect perf (because I have no interest in ABS/ASA) but make it look nicer/more discrete? comment: Both of you need to know that these can be killed by putting it in a box, the board overheats. From Reddit: Bambu controller boards are very sensitive to temperature, much more so than reprap controllers. When I did a P1P to P1S conversion, I forgot to add the gcode to turn on the main board fan and burned out the board. And technically the board isn’t even directly in the build chamber. Enclosing your A1 will kill it and Bambu will look at the logs, see you burned out the board and void your warranty.
@jonathanberry1111 Long Term Heat Exposure on the mainboard yes it is not rated for it and is passively cooled. In a pinch on a short print the A1 CAN print inside an enclosure. I wouldn't go putting it in an enclosure for 5 hours or more but yes it can be done. Just because a Corvette can do 193mph doesn't mean you should but it is an option.
Understanding how the different methods of measuring temperature affects the values recorded shows that she really is a step above most reviewers regarding science. I appreciate that. The bloopers section isn’t really my thing, but never mind, someone else probably loves that too.
Thanks for the follow up information on the A1. I was split between several printers at this price point and just ordered the A1 based on your recommendation of it. Your videos were very helpful in deciding, thank you!
Just FYI those thermometers are not laser thermometers they are infrared thermometers. The laser is just a laser pointer to help you aim. The infrared thermometers are very susceptible inaccuracy on shiny or reflective surfaces as well as some specific types of materials. This is because of how those materials interact with infrared light or reflect infrared light from other things in the room.
Noticing in this video too that your cable exhibits the recall issues Bambu put out this past weekend. I wonder if that also had some impact on your uneven heat distribution on the bed?
For those interested, I built an enclosure for my Cr10 with a single panel of foam insulation from the hardware store. Used drywall screws to hold it together and a couple clear lexan sheets for double doors and 3d printed mounting hardware for it. I don't recall the cost but it was very effective and cheap to make. I think it was somewhere around the $50 range? Not very pretty but it does the job well.
Hi thanks for your well put together and impartial video but I would just like to add that thermal cameras/infrared thermometers don't play well with reflective surfaces the darker the better as fast as accuracy is concerned, when calibrating my heat bed or nozzle I use a thermocouple with a calibrated hand held reader.
Perhaps place something non reflective on top of each bed (black paper?) before measuring. Maybe that will give a fair apples-to-apples comparison between each printer.
For what it's worth, a part like that doesn't print on my x1c either using that eryone ASA. It warps and splits and I tried all different kinds of things to get it to work and never could. I ended up printing the part in PETG and it worked fine.
Thanks for the review! I can’t buy the Bambu for normal price in my country,so now I’m thinking to go with flash forge 5m (maybe pro?) or Anycubic kobra 2 pro or Creality ender 3 v3 ke, which one has a better print quality or a speed? And if the flash forge as I think is slightly better in terms of print quality can you mention the 2nd place in this comparison and how big is the difference in print quality between 2nd place and flash forge 5m ? Thanks for your reviews, they really helped me to make decision in previous year❤ P.s.: Will you make a review on flying bear ghost 6?
I'm using a glass bed on an Ender from 2019, and Never have to put anything on the bed to make the piece stick. Also I do not clean it with more than a paper towel. The PLA and ABS sticks to it so well it does not dislodge until the bed cools to room temperature. This BambuLab A1 unit appears to be affordable and superior.
very informative and I appreciate the website info also. I recently got the A1 and may now even upgrade to the X1 Carbon... fantastic printers. very happy with them. 🥰🥰🥰🥰
I wanted to love this so much, then i bought it and it broke 3 days after the 30 day warranty, it's now barely usable and I've only had automated responses from support. My p1p/s made me love printing again but the a1, and bambu's confused conflicting maintenance guides have made me want to not rely on them so much.
Once I get the printer myself I'm gonna see if it's possible but anyone know if you can retract filliment before it cuts and changes filliment, if so has anyone experimented with this and had any positive results. I'm going to do everything I can to reduce waist. I'v seen some tips IE reduce purge, but iv not seen anyone try retracting first?
There's G-Code for the X1 that actually does this. I believe it can easily be adapted to the other bamboo printers. Apparently if you combine this process with maximizing waste as infill, you can significantly reduce the overall waste.
just thought I'd give you a tip if you didn't already know, until now I've been running a1 for 4 days constantly with printing, and if there's one thing I didn't like about that printer, it's the magnetism of the textured pei that came with it,combined with the bad the way bambu lab solved the way to center the print plate. This was solved perfectly for me by taking the gold textured pei plate from my x1c printer, it’s not that strong magnetism and not that rough texture, easy’r to center and better to use for diffrent fillament
I noticed at the 3:23 time stamp that your heat bed cable at the base of your printer looks like it is damaged similar to the announcement photo from Bambu lab. Stay safe!
I seem to recall an uncle Jessie video he pulled/removed after printing light switch cover plates because PLA is not code and is a potential fire hazard. I would not be printing an electrical box unless I knew it was safe. Thoughts?
The best option would be to use self-extinguishing PETG filament (e.g. Prusament PETG V0 or PETG FRJet). It is a bit expensive but recommended for electrical enclosures.
There's no "Todaaay.." today? 😮 Merry Christmas to you and your bro, great video as always, very informative 😊 If you give up on 3D printing reviews there's a future in motorbike sound effects for movies waiting for you 😊
Reflections knock temp wild with InfraRed; Infrared radiation absorption and radiation by a surface: Infrared radiation absorption and radiation by a surface They implied a firmware fix for 100 C
If your keep the base out of the enclosure (not the bed) I would bet pretty high like 40C-50C. Ensure the base stays cool will be key as it is a passive heatsink.
I love that crate, it’s so useful! I’ve printed a couple dozen of them in different sizes (100%, 125%, 150%), both mesh and solid bottoms. Very useful for keeping project parts together when as they come of the printers. I also have them in my pantry and laundry room.
Awesome and spot on as always!! I searched for a review of the A1 to find out if I could add it to my printers. I mainly print ASA-cf and wondered if this could be a cheap option for when I need to increase production numbers; but then you answered my next question: for that, get the p1 as A1 + enclosure is almost the same price as the P1S. Thank you
I was waiting for this printer, but then i found a Creality CR-10 SE on sale for $250. I'm already using it and it's a nice machine! My next will be the Bambu A1!
The smaller chamber of the X1 and P1S also means it is much easier and quicker to preheat them, and the chamber can be brought up to higher tempereature due to the smaller volume of air. If materials like ABS or ASA are of interest I would just go with the P1S. Why go with a jank solution by encousing the A1 when the P1S is not that much more expensive and offers other benefits as well. Enclosing the A1 kind of destroys the it just works factor that the Bambu Lab machines have.
Hello. İ want to buy a 3d printer but i cant choose can you help? İ am thinking about for bambu lab A1 combo and creality k1 max. They have same price in my country.
Amazing video as always! You think is possible to print nylon and some other more specialized materials on the A1 mini? And can you maybe make a video on the A1 mini printing some specialized materials? Thanks a lot
from a manufacturing stand point, would they make separate parts that are that much more heat sensitive between the models A1 vs P1S? would it be efficient/economical?
Great video yet again Aurora! :) I really hope to some day have a full size A1 big brother to go with its little bro! I am working super hard to try and get there :D Also I just wanted to say, I LOVE your shirt! haha :P Thank you for the amazing content!
I bought the Anycubic Kobra Neo and it's a nice and simple machine that gives me almost no trouble and puts out good prints consistently. However, on the first layer it leaves a line of filament between different objects which makes the top have a line in it there as well. Do you know how to fix that?
Haven't tested our A1 yet, but checking our A1 mini yesterday with a thermal camera, both the PEI and smooth sheet gave reads up to 10C lower than the set point. I had some occasional adhesion issues on the left side in particular where that isn't over the machine, and bumping up the bed temp default seems beneficial.
A piece of matte black tape on the bed would give you a place to accurately measure the temperature with the IR thermometer. The lower emissivity of the peninsula coated steel is affecting the reading.
Quick question guys, i'v been using an ultimaker from the beginning I have ordered an A1 and very excited my last printer was the Ultimaker S3. So the question is, any one knows if there eis a way to use 2.85 filliment with the printer IE new hotend someone may sell. It's just so I can use up some old stock but I suspect it would probably just be better to sell them off and just buy new stock?
Don’t hold your breath, this machine is designed for the casual user. I seriously doubt anything will be offered to change such the fundamental function of the entire filament transfer system.
Hi Aurora. For someone who plans to print engineering material like Nylon and PA6 do you think the A1 + a DIY enclosure will be satisfactory or do you think the P1S is worth the extra investment? Really appreciate your detailed experiments!
I am thinking of buying a hobby printer, maybe I can use it for business in the future. I'm torn between the A1 combo and the p1s. If I buy the p1s I won't be able to buy an ams for a while. P1s combo is really too expensive for me. What would be your advice
Depending on what you print, if you mainly use PLA, PETG, and TPU, you don’t need to print filaments that require an enclosure; the A1 works just fine.
My garage isn't heated but I have 2 Antminer L7's in there. They produce more than enough heat for a double car garage and generate about $1400 CND /month dual mining litecoin and dogecoin. I pay 10 cents/Kwh averaged over 24 hours so profit is about $800. So free heat + $800 profit. No brainer.
This is a great follow-up review. I was wondering Aurora what your thoughts on filament brands are? I understand you are sponsored by Voxel Lab, but I was wondering how you source filament colors from different brands.
In addition to VOXELPLA, I also use SUNLU and Eryone. All of them offer reasonable prices with good quality. I haven't noticed any significant differences between these budget brands and higher-priced ones. However, I did have a poor experience with some unbranded filaments in terms of quality. Regarding colors, even different batches of the same brand may exhibit slight variations, especially if you buy the same color after a few months or a year. Don't expect them to match exactly.
Nicely narrated video. As I’m new to this, why would you enclose a 3D printer?😂 edit… just had to watch a few more minutes of the video to get my answer.
As materials and printers get better, I see less and less need for enclosed printers. However, there are still popular materials that need an enclosure to print.
