I'm a retired electrical engineer and the safety ensured by the UL/CSA double insulated devices are not just safe in your home but also safe enough for patient contact in Medical institutions like Hospitals. Use with confidence.
I won't buy anything but Wago connectors for my model railroad. I don't care for any crimp or crush connectors, and the real Wagos are perfect with no tools of any type needed for usage!! So simple, and great quality.
Just make sure to get Wago 221 originals for anything mains powered. Lot of not as good lever nut clones appearing. Wago are massively popular and proven in Europe so much better than twist on wire nuts.
LEDs tend to draw less energy than halogen bulbs, which can help you save money on your electric bill. The Barrina lights seem like a good option for large rooms or even a workshop if someone wants to use them for those applications.
It's interesting that people got concerned about the aluminum extrusion. We've been watching people hang fluorescent shop lights for decades without much concern, and those things are all steel. These appear to be far more isolated than most of the fluorescents I've had the pleasure to crack open. I remember reading the article back in the day by Allen McClelland about hanging neon lighting on the V&O and his wife getting suspicious the evening he came up early from the basement. He had touched the wrong thing and had been blown off the top of his benchwork (he liked it standable) by the high voltage of the neon power source.
Hi Larry. Thanks for all of the leg work chasing down info on the Barrina lights. I still love mine and have had no problem with them. I really like the function of the Kill-A-Watt. So much easier than a traditional meter for those applications. I will be investing in one of these for model railroad and home use. Thanks. 👍🏼👍🏼
Great share Larry cool light’s .Always enjoy how you take us through the process of installing or wiring. That’s what’s it’s all about helping us understand the way to do installations Thanks have a great rest of your day and weekend
Hi Larry, thanks for this video, it answers some of the points I raised and, because I was querying the safety of these lights rather than trying to shoot them or you down I'll draw a line under the issue, particularly as I am aware that there are differences in the US and UK/EU test standards. By the way the 'U' in the '1000 + 2U' calculation is the line voltage - 110V for you in the states.
I have used twenty LED strip lights (6500K) for about three years. Other than one or two bussing, they work very well for the cost. The do get pretty hot, so be careful what type of material the are mounted to. I use Wago for house wiring and the cheaper knock-offs for train wiring.
as regards to prior video in the past, I used your DIY stay alive circuit but added a 120 ohm resistor to the super capacitor to keep my Digitrax system from shutting down on startup - prevent inrush current to the super cap.
Brilliant explanation of the light. With getting the manufacturer to comment removes the my take and my thoughts. Great Spot on. One question. With the 3 pin cord having an earth / ground core is this earth / ground core taken from one end of the fitting to the other! If it is great and brilliant. BUT if you decide to add an additional item to the end that needs an earth / ground to be safe ! You may consider it is connected to earth / ground, but MAY not be! A simple ohm test between the ends will prove it. Keep going g its always great stuff Amacf
I use this style light, though 8' in length, in my 32x36 shop, twenty seven in fact. But I did have one that in which the aluminum casing was in contact with the electrical current. Ask me how I know! 😖
I want to divide my layout into power districts, each with a separate 5 amp booster. Do I need to total my potential amp draw and provide enough circuits to supply the load? For example eight power districts would be a potential 40 amp draw, and would need two 20amp circuits.
You first must decide whether you really need 40 amps. After all that would mean running 80 locos simultaneously. On the Piedmont Southern I am using 2 8 amp Digitrax systems for almost 400’ of mainline and currently have over 60 locos. Also a 8 amp power supply may only draw a max of 3 amps at full tilt somI can easily power my 2 8 amp units off a single 15amp household circuit. As I showed in this weeks video my system is currently only pulling a little over 2 amps so you likely will never reach 40 amps! I power my individual blocks using PSX power managers which act something like the breakers in your electrical breaker box. I bet if you added up the total amperage of all the circuits in that box they would greatly exceed the 200 amp service coming in from the utility transformer. You need to watch my videos on power management and also on using the PSX devices.
Google is your friend. Amazon has several vendors. Daisy chain modular self install system, been around as a fluo version for decades. Other brands are also available, just may not be interchangeable.
