Hey, I read the manual about the numbering for the journals. Are you sure you didn't say it backwards? 🤔 I may be wrong, but if we look at the crankshaft as it is on the video, isn't the correct order from left to right 1-2-1-2?
You are right I said it backwards. That's why the number 4 green was the correct size on the plasti-gauge because the journal was a 1 not a 2 like a I stated. Also important why you verify it with the plasti gauge. Good catch 1 is on the left when the engine is right side up. 😅
@@DeWoodysShop Phew, good to hear I wasn't in the woods, as I'm building an 4C8 engine at the moment for my R1 RN19 "scratch" build 😅 I will make a series of it and will guide people to your videos. 🤙🏻
I have to say I searched youtube for a proper yamaha r1 engine rebuild and this is the best one, very detailed and going over everything. This series you can learn how to build a yamaha r1 engine from top to bottom without ever rebuilding any engine before...like me. I successfully rebuilt my 2007 yamaha r1 engine only thanks to this video. I had a spun bearing and buying a used engine was too expensive. I grinded and polished the crank myself at home using the shoelace method as well to fix the scratches on crank, but got a new rod since it was black from the heat. I then used this series to build the engine up. Thank you
Great job man 🙌 i have a 05 r1 in my garage well its my uncles bike he launched and tore up 1st gear plus snaped the chain and craked the block its got a 2"x3" access hole 😢 Am thinking on taking on this project so thats the reason i just watch all 10 rebuild videos i feel confident know since its a really detailed series thanks for taking ur time showing step by step 💪🙌 bike only had 16k 😢
Hello, Thank you for this tutorial. It was a huge help when I was changing bearings. I have a question: do you know what the big number 4 stands for in the crank? Can be seen at 3 minute mark on this video. Previous owner has erased and regrooved number on that place in my engine.
Hello, good job, it is helping me a lot but I have a question. When you put the new screws on the connecting rod and you have to tighten them to 15 nw and then to 29 nw, I don't see that you do the 29 nw. That is the procedure correct before installing the connecting rod on the crankshaft definitely? thanks for your help.
Yes on the 04-08 r1 the rod bolts are supposed to be replaced each time they get torqued down. But generally i will check it will the old bolts the finally assembly with the new ones.
I can't remember exactly, but looks like about 10$ all in now by the time you ship a few. I order everything from partzilla for oem stuff. www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5VY-11654-01-00?ref=da0ca0c28ac9f2d572e2c0072b1924ea1646763c
Usually I start with least invasive repairs and work my way through troubleshooting. Unless there is a physical hole in the block. Then the problem is pretty obvious.
Watched ur videos, completely rebuilt my r1, sounds good fixed my issue but has a rough idle now and it didnt beforw and also my oil and coolant are mixing, is there any way you cna help figure out what is going on???
My guesses would be one of the o rings from the water/oil pump is leaking or one of the O-rings on the water pipe that goes through the case from the water pipe. Could also be a head gasket. But if it's only water in the oil and not the cylinders I would be checking the pipes coming and going from the oil/water pumps
@DeWoody's Shop also feels like it's striking something when it's idling but when I had it all apart it didn't show any signs of it hitting valves and the timing is correct
Im currently rebuilding my 2005 r1. The main bearing to journal clearance is .0015” for all five. The spec in the manual is .0006”-.0015.” Would you be comfortable re using them? They have a few small scratches and small brown coloring from possible lack of oil? Thanks! Nice vid
I’ve installed new bearings since this comment. Still measuring out at .0015” purchased black because my # on the case is 5 and the # on my crank is 2 so 5-2-1=2 black. Since the limit is .0039” i feel comfortable with that. Just wish they were a little tighter
Thanks, and I’m sorry if you stated this in the video already. But can I reuse my rod bolts just to measure plastigage? And then if they measure out replace them with the new ones?
Well if it's that cheap its probably worth it. Worst case you can just sell the parts. The 2002 is nothing like these though at all. It's basically a. Fuel injected 98-01 r1 engine. 02-03 only are like this. I would probably buy it personally if it were mostly complete. But that might not be the best decision for everyone
@@DeWoodysShop this would be the second bike I buy the has an electrical problems first one I bought it for like 200 but it was a 1988 yamaha 1000cc carburetor and it was in pieces only bought it to learn took me couple months to get running as it needed a whole wiring harness rebuilt which was a painful task for me due to audated schematics got it running and sold it for a profit never cleaned it up just got it running and I got no projects so that's just why I am looking into buying it just to have something to keep my hands occupied
@@DeWoodysShop hey how are you ? Turns out I need main bearings I order a set took 4 weeks to get them and sadly it can’t fit can you help me fine the correct ones please
@@toddneckles5922 message me on Facebook if you would. Same name. There is a bit of a procedure. You will need to know the numbers on the crank and rod to calculate the size.
What? It does not matter where you start long as you turn it 150 degrees after the first torque number. That's what the degree wheel is for so I don't have to start in a specific spot. You can start anywhere.
