Hey man, just want to say a really big thank you for this video serie, you're trully a life saver. I've got the same R1 that is always in need of work and I can't say how many times I've came back to watch your videos, it helps a beginner like me in mecanic to prepare and not stress as much when doing engine work. Thanks a lot again 🙌
Been following this build from the start. Very helpful. Can’t wait to see it running when finished. Then I’ll probably start on mine using this as a guide.
Awesome video! just some friendly advice, you only need two cylinder head studs installed to help guide the cylinder down over the pistons and rings, the studs are in your way. you can install the rest of the studs afterwards. Again this is a great video.
Cool series, I think I’d definitely prefer connecting pistons to rods and coming into cylinders using the ring compressor.. Earlier vid I watched and thought, wait, what.. ?? Seemed a bit off but but I was distracted by the degree-torquing method. Was definitely extremely concerning since it looked like the degree wheel was rotating with the tool. With that clip technique I was a bit shocked you didn’t blanket the hole so it would be impossible to drop a clip in.. Completely remove the possibility of the Really bad day you mentioned! Talk about an understatement. I didn’t really think about it a lot when I was jumping around your series and saw you connecting big end rods with NO pistons attached. Lol.. obviously you made it Wk. It sounded like it was fine in the end. Good on ya! 👍👍 I’d HAVE to have the tool keeping everything from rotating. And Or at least a 2nd pair of hands for the torquing procedure. Curious if you would do it the same sequence or the other way now?
The degree wheel was attached to the socket not the tool. So you can still use the ratchet. That seems to upset a lot of people apparently since the ratchet is free to move. The degree wheel is static on the socket though and that's what I'm measuring not the wrench angle. The reason I did it like this was because I only did one rod. If you remove the rods you must buy new rod bolts. So in this case I only needed two. The frusting side effect of that is you end up having to put the pistons in the cylinders that way. If it was a clean build with all 4 I would have put the cylinders on and done it that way with the ring compressor. Yeah dropping the clip in is a problem but that's mostly for better visibility on camera and is a great tip to prevent that if you do need to do it this way.
If you plan to do it that way yes probably. But you would have to plan to build it that way and take all the rods off the crank, and that would mean all new bolts also. For me it was just easier to do it this way. In real time it did not take more than 15-20min to install the cylinders. The unedited footage was around an hour to do what was im this video while filming.
@@DeWoodysShop That's a really good point you bring up. My plan is to swap the internals from a broken engine case to an undamaged case. Didn't even think about removing the crank with the pistons and rods to save me on the bolts. Then I would only have to replace the journal bearings. Pretty clever!
Doesnt the manual say to install the pistons into the cylinder first with the connecting rods attached, and then from there sliding each rod over the crank journal to torque it up? I guess both ways work right
No, you can't get to them all from the bottom. The rods need to be on the crank when you put the bottom case together. Then you put the pistons on then the cylinders then the head.
On page 5-90 in my manual it shows a picture of them installing the cylinder with the pistons and rods already in the cylinders. And then from there guiding the rods on the journals, torquing them up, and then from there putting cases together and whole bottom end. Basically backwards idk in my opinion that seems easier. I saw partzilla doing it with an r6 but im not sure if thats the same as an r1
@@frankiemarchese2978 yeah either way like that would work fine, long as the case is joined last. Its just a pain to move it around for filming or see anything upside-down. The only thing to be cautious about doing it that way when you are torturing down the rod caps not to move the crank and nick the crank or the main bearing in the case half since they are torqued pretty high.
Yes for me but either way I think is ok .. You helped me building my 07 R1 engine watching your video series ,very professional..thanks bro . I support your channel .
@@DeWoodysShop ok cause I looked for it on ebay. The books that was offered was mainly for maintenance purposes.. I'm trying to install the piston rods but can't the block to separate. Would the fly wheel/ stator keep it from separating? Its loose around the other section of the block...🤔
No. I literally spend time talking about the ring orientation. Get a bigger screen mate. This bike was finished over a year ago. Spoiler alert it does not smoke or burn oil... you can see the ring orientation chart around 4 min.....
