Bass Boat Electronics Wiring - Powering Your Fishing Electronics 

Thanks! I appreciate that. You want to make sure you are using stranded tinned marine wire. Best place to buy is dependant on your location. Amazon is typically a good spot to order from however, Radioworld carry’s everything you need and there is no second guessing if you’re ordering the right component. www.radioworld.ca/rigging-accessories/z-fif-ra

Awesome info thanks

So at the back of your boat at the cut off switch, where's all the negative wires connected to? Are all the negative wires tied together and ground to the negative terminal on the battery?

@@patrickzajdel from the breaker to the fuse box, do you have a fuse in between somewhere? Or is the 6 gauge running straight to the fuse box?

@@Blag0522 a 30amp breaker or maxi fuse on the switch side will suffice

Won’t argue that it’s overkill, but why not 🤷🏽‍♂️

The Echomap units for Garmin for instance have a design input voltage of 10-30 volts meaning they graph will operate between those limits with 10 being the minimum before having issues. With any electrical run (dc or ac) there will be an increase in resistance due to several factors including type of conductor. This why AC power tools drawing high amps needs a larger gauge cord at 100 than it does at 25 feet. You can run the AC tool but it will burn up or run at reduced hp. As for DC, if you have 24 volts at the battery and check the end of the wire 20 feet away with a small gauge wire of 14, it will be slightly less because of internal wire resistance (wire resistance), across connectors. The voyage drop is proportional to power available to be converted for use. At any rate, to deep to explain but please read up on voltage drop and wire sizes. Yea, it’s a great idea to have a separate wire and battery to power your units to avoid electrical feedback interference from other devices or voltage spikes when starting you motor and the devices are powered by the cranking battery. Whatever you do, don’t cut the inline fuses off near the device and rely on the blade type fuses. They are fast blow type fuses and they are always located in or within close proximity of the sensitive device. It protects the device where as the blade type fuse protects the wire. Another well known electronic installer stated they cut off the inline fuse. Noooo!