your attention to detail always amazes me and is great. it’s always nice to see people paying attention to correct towing standards as well. Nice work!
Visited Marty this week and saw both the trailer and the 3 engine boat. You really can’t appreciate his engineering and fabrication skills until you see them in person. Unbelievable.
Another great video. I have a old Harbor Freight 1 ton tilt bed trailer, that works with my 14 foot flat backed canoe, I used a 3/4" X 4' X 8' sheet of plywood on it, the front of my canoe runs almost to the hitch, to get a good tongue weight.
Hey Marty. When your attacking your chains to your truck make sure you cross them under the tongue. That way if the trailer pops off the ball it’ll catch the tongue. Awesome trailer!
I love the attention to detail. Sanding rough edges and painting for appearance....superb.... Love the wall to wall carpeting on the trailer deck.... you could rent it out to sunbathing babes while you are fishing.... Add a good power wench (cable) to the tongue....
I live in snow country and love all things winter and have never really been into boating but your videos make me see why people love the water so much. Keep up the great content!
When you drill through steel like that make a pilot hole first (maybe 1/4in) and use oil. Then run the final bit through. Saves your bits and its much easier
I was impressed with you scrutinizing tongue weight. When you tested gravity down the ramp....that was priceless!😂 Sweet build! Do you think the weight of the motors bouncing down the road will cause problems with the transom?
Hi there I have a little experience with trailers and a kayak is just way too light and a horrible driving experience. It will just bounce around and be annoying
@@Artoconnell Because adding weight increases the GVM, which impacts everything else. And here's a tip to you and anyone else who thinks just adding weight to the front is ok. If you aren't willing to build it correctly, don't build it at all.
hi Zoffinger i wanted to say you should get a thick piece of rubber that you can bend and connect the plate . to the trailer so when you hit the water it will bend so you don't bend you plate.
You could flip the hinges for extra support across the frame. I'm sure it's solid already with the 4x4 and 2x6 but it was just a thought if it starts to sag.
Dude i freaking love your videos and all of your creations it gives me really good ideas of things to create and a good idea of how to do it. and i love the fact that you casually drive a stick too. i love my 5 speed f150.
Cool project, only issue i see is the higher the trailer the further into the water you have to go. Luckily the boat is light so its not much of a problem..
Wow Zoff with those three gas-sipping gph small-hp engines, you can go really all day very far. Running one at a time, going for long day outing and trolling too.
One suggestion. Make sure you keep the wheel bearings greased on those harbor freight trailers or replace them with better bearings. I built the same trailer into a boat trailer for my little 9 foot boat and the wheel bearings come with it are horrible. I also put bearing buddies on the hubs. Easier to grease.
And, exactly why I need to leangthen the tounge on my trailer and move my boat ahead 2 foot. I bought my boat for 250 bucks and put 6k into it to restore her, it's on the trailer that it came on still. It's a 1977 Regal Royal 240. 24' cabin cruiser powered by a 351w sbf and pre Alfa out drive. Factory spec sheet says she weighs 5500lbs with no gas or equipment. Add 90 gallons of gas, 3 marine batteries ,all your fishing gear,coolers and what not,plus I put a large teak swim platform on and the boat weighs in at around 6700lbs with no one on board. The trailer weighs around 1000 empty. So, I have 7700lbs as it sits,and you can walk over and lift the tounge up ,I'd say maybe 120lbs tounge weight tops, luckily I pull her behind a 96 f350 quad cab dually, so it doesn't really effect how the truck handles,but it's hard on the hull with 3' of the stern hanging past the rear most rollers. My problem is that whomever had the boat before replaced the trailer with one that's only for about a 20' hull. No big deal to fix it though, cut the tounge, sleeve it and add a longer tube,weld and done.
Don't worry about painting the porous wood. That cheap chinese steel will rot away long before that wood after a few dunks in the salt water. I might have looked for a cheap used little galvanized jet ski trailer. Nice job on the construction though.
The boat build and trailer build were rad! And the first run on the lake was really great. But I sure was hoping to see more content on this boat!! Do you have other videos were it you were using it?
With that flat long plywood surface, and the air trapped under it - with passing trucks and cars throwing an air wake, that whole boat and trailer could easily fly going down the highway. Think proper load would be 60% of load weight in front of the axle, but yeah, 10 - 15% is usually spoken on regular cheapo ball hitch type trailer hitches.
Did you forget a trolling motor? Maybe you don't need one. I just saw the mounting place on the front of the boat and thought the motor and battery could take care of the tongue weight you needed.
Hey Marty, first off I love this project! Audacious, over the top, and SO MUCH FUN! I have a semi-unrelated question though. When you were strapping the boat down to the trailer I saw you had cleats on the raised side of the boat. How did you secure those so they wouldn’t possibly be torn out? I just bought a similar boat and am stumped on how to do it without cutting a bunch of big holes in my boat to wedge an aluminum bracket up under there. Cheers, Nikole
Hey Marty, great project as always! One question though. I didnt see any transom savers under the outboards. Wouldn't they be necessary, especially with a plastic boat?
