For starters, whenever possible, hold the tip of the rod on the ground or a rock or pc of wood, anything like that, and you will get a better shower of sparks, that will be closer to your tinder, and it will light better. Also, there are basically 2 types of ferro rods, harder ones, and softer ones. The harder ones have a higher iron content, and shower sparks pretty good, but just sparks. The softer ones have lower iron and higher magnesium, and will throw gobs of metal, that will continue to burn. They are easier for use for people who hold the rod up and away from the tinder like you are doing in this video. The pros and cons are, the harder one will last you longer, the softer one is easier, but will wear out faster. Hope that helps.
I take those magnesium blocks, drill a bunch of holes in it, break off the striker, and keep the shavings and striker in a waterproof container. Just got a bayite a few weeks ago and love it. Good video man!
I had the exact same issue.i also purchased a bayite 6-1/2 ferro rod(its made a big difference)the softer and bigger the ferro rod,the better and easier it is to get good sparks.i would recommend a bayite to anyone having the same problems.
I usually pin my tinder down with the rod and go with a hard forceful, but slightly slower strike and it's much more effective and takes a lot less strikes than holding way off
Excellent video. I thought that I was the only one with these type of issues. Practice makes the master, which I don’t do enough. Simple fluffed out dry cotton balls, makes it so much easier.
I have had these in my cart at amazon for quite awhile . Only thing thats made me not pull the trigger yet is I got a pile of ferro rods and magnesium firestarters. My oldest ones are over 45 years old now and well used . I will pull the trigger soon . Thank you for making this video .
The grooves can be sanded out. If you scrape on a 45° angle or hold the ferro rod at 45° , you usually won't get the grooves and bumps. Hope this helps.
Yeah, I think the knife I was using had a spine that wasn't sharp enough...I used it quite a bit and sort of rounded out the spine...so it wasn't biting as hard into the ferro rod as I would have liked. Other blades spines are working better...but I have been able to work around the grooves just fine at this point. Thanks for watching!
It may also help to have a sharper spine on the knife or striker. As I tend to beat the snot out of my knife, my spine can get dull. I use a dedicated striker attacked to the rod with blaze orange paracord. Those ridges are a bugger, but improving technique and tools can make a difference. Good video. Thank you for your time!
Better yet hold your knife down by your tinder and draw back on the ferrocirum rod and keep your knife still.. I find that way my knifes never hit the tinder.. idk works for me
A sharp spine on what ever you decide to use as a striker is key, I love my Bayite, have the same one reviewed, with the mora garberg, I can light kindling on the ground while standing up.
Short ones work too. Having proper tinder prepared with progressively larger fuel and keeping the rod close to the tinder when igniting is going to give you better results.
I agree completely about preparing the tinder. That is make or break often times...more so than the quality of the ferro rod/scraper. If the rod and scraper can make a spark, the right tinder can take it.
I've had one of these badboys in my Amazon wishlist for a whole year, but I've been weary on the quality, but it looks like a pretty good deal, thanks for making the vid it'll be my next ferro rod for sure!
In your demonstration for comparison, I noted that you hold it up to far away from your target (tinder) to be effective with any of those rods. There should be very little gap between the rod and what you are trying to light, unless it's liquid fuel.
I am no expert in ferrocerium rods but what I do know I consider worth knowing. The ferrocerium rod formulas can be separated into two categories. Hard formulas and soft formulas. Hard formulas throw hot sparks and last a long time (Think the igniter on many lighters), while soft ferrocerium can throw sparks but are designed to sling hot molten metal and unfortunately do not last as long as the hard counterpart. Unfortunately Hard and soft ferrocerium rod formulas are often not disclosed, fortunately there is a rule of thumb (Fat rods are soft formulas while the skinny rods are hard formulas). This is my personal opinion but I think soft ferrocerium rods are better served in the bush-craft scene (They can focus more heat into the target).
I was looking at the Bayite ferro rods on Amazon. They seem like they may be a softer rod which I understand to be a better kind to get. Thanks for the review 👍
Nice video! I've got the same problem with grooves on one of my cheaper ferro rods. I suggest you to file or sand it down. It helps a lot. My all time favourite ferro rod is the lightmyfire army 2.0. The sparks aren't really large, but they are flying really controlled and ignite a fire with the second strike for most time.
Some of the issues you're having is technique. It works better if you strike farther back on the knife you have more controll and leverage. With any Ferro rod, steady pressure is key, so it also helps if you plant the tip of your rod into whatever tinder you have chosen and strike down from there with your knife blade. You get much better control and can control the pressure better because you have 2 anchor points instead of one. Just a suggestion. Hope this helps
I find a simple lightweight scraper effective, but I don't have experience with other heavier scrapers like a high speed steel scraper. This is our hobby, let's enjoy the journey.
Good review on just how different sparks fly from different Ferro rods. Sometimes it's the first sparks & sometimes I have been scraping for a while ! I will look into that brand for sure.
I struggle...as foolishly simple as it should be, sometimes it's difficult to get the technique right, or locate the perfect pocket of sparks. I find that the more time I spend in preparation the better my results...really processing wood down small enough and getting to the dry stuff. I'm often impatient....that's my own fault, not the rod!
A couple things if I may. I think most of the problem is the tinder is too far away and too wildly thrown sparks. Don't be afraid to get up in there and concentrate your efforts. Could try pin-and push or hold your knife right against where your tinder is and pull the rod. The little rods can work fine - look up Paul Kirtley's ferro rod video. It'll make your head 🤯. Life changing. As for bumps, keep more a 45° angle with your striker on the rod and see if that helps. Looks too square. They say it's uneven pressure too that causes them (I get em - still learning). Dan from Coalcracker Bushcraft has a good video on fixing it with a file. But that Kirtley method a makes none of that matter. Only real legit critique is you seem to present the info as if from a place of expertise or as a teacher, but it ain't there yet with this, with all due respect.
Clean the grooves on your ferro rod up with a metal file. Just move slowly and turn it at an angle while you file the rod. That will remove the ridges and freshen up your ferro rod.
Instead of pushing the knife towards the tinder bundle spraying the sparks everywhere, you should put the knife close to and above the tinder bundle, then pull the ferro rod back and away from the tinder bundle thus allowing all the sparks to be concentrated at the tinder bundle.
@@outerlimitless Not cool, dude. Bob G. was just intimating your technique could use a lot of improvement esp if your intent is to try to instruct others. Just saying . . .
Awesome...welcome aboard!!! Glad to have you!! Yeah, that ferro rod is definitely solid...you will be happy with it. I've had great luck with it and it has gotten better with time and a little wear in once the coating is gone. Also, my knife spine was a bit dull in that video...a really sharp spine, or dedicated striker works even better.
Thanks! I carry a #8 Opinel on my belt and it has a high-carbon blade as well as a nicely angled spine to strike my Ferro rods. Appreciate the tips! :)
Opinels have to be seen to be believed ... razor-sharp edge and very lightweight. Easily sharpened, as well. Because mine are "high carbon", the blade has a tendency to stain (unless meticulously kept polished, which I don't do). Very reasonably priced, in my opinion, for the value they deliver.
General rules: Check to make sure the spine of your knife is damn sharp 90 degree; make sure blade is HC steel; Love the Bayiye, have several of those 6"... Put a sweet leather snake knot lanyard on them, fills the hand and works like a blow torch on tinder.
I think my spine was rounded out after considerable use...it needs to be squared off a bit more. other spines seem to shower a bit better at this point. I love the snake knot...such a solid knot technique!
Try holding the knife stationary over your tinder and pulling the ferro rod towards you, it will help get the sparks where you want them instead of them shooting all over. As always practice practice and then practice some more.
I'm no expert but I've never had grooves or bumps in my ferro rods before. When I'm striking I hold my blade at roughly a 45° angle (or with most edge and little surface area touching the rod) and I use my index finger as a platform under the rod while i'm striking to make sure the rod doesn't bounce when I pull or push. When pulling or pushing I go just fast enough to generate the friction to get a spark, give it a Slow and Deliberate push or pull. you don't need to rip it across like a jet fighter, it just lowers accuracy and leads to bouncing or reduced surface contact in my opinion. for me I pull the rod with the knife on top of my nest/tinder if I need a lot of control. I push my knife spine if i need a wider area of sparks or if I have room (or i'm playing). one dumb trick/gimmick? i use is an old steel canning funnel with magnesium (mostly on the harder cheap blocks where you just get fine dust instead of nice wide slivers) + ferro sparks works pretty darn good to force the marriage and keep the sparks from bouncing off target once they hit the tinder. Anyway that is my 2 pennies. Thanks for the review! :)
I definitely struggled a bit in that video, but I found my knife spine was kinda rounded out. Although my technique wasn't great, the fire steel performs much better now that it doesn't have the coating on it which is kinda normal. But you described a solid technique that I will definitely try. Thanks for watching and great advice!
I like how you are still reading your comments and open to learning things from your viewers after all this time. This reply alone just earned you my sub.
Looks like a winner there, good size for sure. Shame Amazon won't ship these outside the US though, if you know of anywhere else I can purchase it would be handy. Thanks again for the review....proving once again that size does matter!
Oh, bummer, really?? That is a total bummer...what do you do without Amazon?? Don't tell me you go to an actual Store!! Hahaha...dude, I seriously would die without Amazon.
@@outerlimitless don't they all lol You can sand the speed bumps down to salvage the rod. Belt sander makes quick work of it and a fun show. Lol Thanks for sharing, I've enjoyed a few of your videos. New subscriber.
Some of the problem with your technique is holding the ferro rod. As well as ferro rod density as you mentioned. With the shorter rods brace them against a stick. That way when you strike them you get even pressure throughout the strike. This also resolves the issue of aiming the Sparks.
Use the spine of the knife that's closer to the handle. Not the point. It bounces because there's not enough downward pressure on the rod. Hope this helps.
I hope after three years your technique has gotten better but just a quick suggestion if not. Use the part of the spine closer to your handle. Better control. Just my experience. Take it for what it's worth. Hope you've improved.
It has improved, but that video was intended as a basic discussion...not so much technique driven. It was to show the Bayite against other options. But yes, I understand your point.
Just bought the bayite, but with armhair like that, you should be able to start a fire anywhere. Btw, hairy arms are a sign of a successful person in some cultures.
The arm hair provides temperature control. Shade in the summer and insulation in the winter. I also have plenty of tinder to start my fire. If it means success I can't imagine what it takes to become rich...haha, I have more than enough already!
I have practiced quite a bit with this rod since that video. I think my knife spine was a bit rounded out and combine that with uneven pressure I got bad waves in it. I've done a bit better since then paying closer attention to my technique. Thanks for watching!
Get yourself a tungsten carbide sharpener, they make fantastic strikers & throw massive showers of sparks, the corona carbide sharpeners are like $5 online.
I know this was 4 years ago. Groves start to emerge when you slide a scraper at a slant and not rotate the ferro after a while and continue to scrap one side. You scrap the scraper back and not both the ferro and the scraper. We have human reaction to scrap ferro like we are widdling a wooden stick.
I just wrote a little guide for starting a fire for you guys. I hope you'll like it :) PREPARATION The key to start a fire is like with everything else: a good preparation. So let's talk about it.... The best natural fire starter is birch bark. Some think it's because it's very dry but it's not. In fact the birch bark is full of oil and that's what it makes it so good. To check this take an empty metallic can and put some birch bark in and lite it. Then take a metallic snare and put it over the flame just for few seconds and.. TADA! It'll be blackened within seconds. That's the fume from the oil. So get LOTS of birch bark if available. The best is to take the bark from a standing tree. The same apply to small and bigger branches as well as logs. A dead standing tree will always be drier than a fallen one. You can also use pine resin, fat wood, punk wood, etc... After the birch bark comes the small dead branches from any resinous tree. Those makes excellent tinder. Then get bigger branches and logs that you will split into small pieces then finally full logs. So you should have: - fire starter: birch bark, bird's nest, pine resin, fatwood, punk wood, etc. - tinder: very small branches - pencil size branches - small pieces of splitted logs - logs And make sure you have tons of it. You already have? Good, then go get some more!!! Now you need to clear the ground from any branches, leaves, etc that could ignite. Also dig a little into the ground to check if there's many roots. Did you knew that many wild forest fires starts because of fire spreading by the roots? Yup, this is very true! So be careful at all time! Once the ground clear, the best is to make a base from small logs. This is even more true during winter and cold or wet days. It helps a lot because the cold and dampness will make your fire harder to start. Always make sure to have everything within hands reach! The rest is easy. You use the birch bark or any other fire starter material you have and you're on your way to a nice and cozy fire :) BTW, did you knew that the lint from your dryer at home makes an excellent tinder? If stuck into the woods with not birch or no other fire starter around you can use your blade to scrape over your pants to make some lint. There are also cotton ball soaked into petroleum gelly and many other household or commercial products. I hope this will help :)
You're moving the wrong hand. 1. Hold the rod stationary and pull the ferro rod. *Don't move the knife* 2. Keep it close to the tinder. 3. This way *the knife doesn't come forward* to control your spark location and you possibly hit your tinder. Good review. Thank you.
This just covered a comparison of the different ferro rods...I wasn't sparking any tinder, rather demonstrating the spark pattern and hardness of the different rods.
Hey! I just saw this video and I appreciate your honesty for saying that you're on a learning curve. So let me offer you some advices. It's not free tho! You'll owe me a coffee for that lol OK let's start.. HARD AND SOFT There are two ,aim types of ferro rods. Hard and Soft. The hard ones will last longer and will have less ridges due to the scraping. But they will produce less sparks. Many are using the Light My Fire ones and what you need to know is that they have two main ones. The regular ones you'll find in most stores and the army one a bit more difficult to find. The army is the exact same but bigger. The softer ferro rod are because they contain more magnesium. Thus, producing more sparks. The down side is that they wear out much faster and ridges will appear almost 100% sure. The trick is to put lessees sure when striking. THE TECHNIQUE I've noticed that you hold the rod freely in the air. This causes the sparks to fly all over so you waste most of the "ignition". There are two ways to do it right. The first is to put your wrist holding the rod on your shoe to make it stand still then use the scraper (or back edge of your knife) to strike. The second way, the one I use, is to put your ferro rod directly in the center of what you want to lite and apply a pressure to make sure it stays put. You can either scrap downward or both ways for each techniques. It will depend on what you want to lite. For example one or two strikes at the most are needed to start a fire with dry birch bark. Single strikes will produce less ridges on a softer ferro rod. If doing it right, you will start a fire easy with any ferro rod without the need to spend more money. The rod producing lots of sparkles are best for people with less skills. The harder rods are better on the long run because they last longer. It's also a question of weight. Every items adds to the weight you'll carry and you'll be amazed on how much weight you'll remove if you use the proper items. For example a small hard ferro rod weight probably 1/4 of the weight of a big smooth ferro rod. Also you can keep the pots' lids at home and use aluminum foil as a cover instead. This too will save weights. Do this for everything you can and you will not only start a fire easily but also save tons of weight. When looking back at it, I'm always wondering how I managed to carry all that weight on my back before making the little changes LOL
Some great info there. Yeah, I never shy away from admitting where I need improvement...everyone learns everyday about different things, but so many people won't admit what there not good at. By me admitting what I'm not good at, people, such as yourself, offer advice to help me improve and I get the best of other people's experience. I'll give your technique a try the next time I'm out there...thanks for writing!
You're absolutely right. Some people have too much of an ego sometimes. The reality is that we ALL can learn things. This is even more true when it comes to nature/wilderness/outdoors. The subjects and knowledge are infinite. Sometimes I'm in the forest, I look at the nature and I tell myself with a *sigh* "Boy, I wish I knew everything it is to know there". There are probably tons of medicine and healthy stuff that we don't know yet and it's right there in front of our eyes. The most important is to go out and try...... safely tho LOL. Cheers! (btw, I've subscribed).
Get yourself a corona 5 inch carbide tool sharpener and it'll throw mondo Sparks for you and you just attach it to the rod with shock cord. Also it'll never dull out on a ferro rod.
@@outerlimitless no problem!!! It opens your options for knives too since you don't have to have a hard or sharp spine if a carbide scraper is attached to your ferro rod.
I think my technique isn't perfect...like for example even with solid pressure, if the knife spine isn't super sharp it will skip. Or uneven pressure might also cause a skip. I have found that with improved technique and also continuing to wear down the rod has fixed some of the grooving.
Yea that’s fuckin stupid paying that price for that my bayite at the same size for $12 is excellent and never failed making a fire there’s nothing that could justify the extra money unless the firesteel brand comes with a blow job
Honestly, I get the 6"x1/2" bayite for abt $8 USD and it works amazingly IF you use a good scraper, n zero groovesor bumps IF you strike on a 45° angle, (Nathan the ferro rod maker taught me that). $40 is just not necessary, a bayite w a good scraper, the right tinder, the right kindling and you can get a fire going in any conditions. Bless you and have a joyful Holiday season.
I can attest to this. I can scrape with less force and more control while keeping my ferro rod pressed on top of my tinder. I use a small Exotac rod and have no issues solely because of my Leatherman saw.
Your knife does not seem to have a real sharp 90 degree spine.....and that is part of the reason why you are getting those grooves. The edge slips over the surface of the ferro rod. I have the same Bayite Ferro Rod and have been using it for over a year....no grooves have appeared on it so far.
hey man i have a question, I was wondering if you would be interested in selling or possibly tradeing your Tops BOB? just wondering im really interested in getting a Tops blade
put the ferro back by your thumb then strike or if you don't have a good spine get a dmt diamond stone the green one or the grit you want and sand the back of your knife to get rid of the ridges on the ferro rod use emery cloth and sand I always carry 100% cotton it catches sparks like a catchers mitt I want a fire find out what works best for you you gotta know how to use your rod boss that was funny I have several ferro rods and start a fire real easy with all of them hope this helps kenny
The groves are a sign of poor technique and not using enough pressure. You need to strike the ferro rod right next to the handle and stabilize the rod on the top of your foot using the back of your hand or place the tip of the rod on the ground.
Your Ferro Rod should be not moving around you should have it directly on the ground next to your Tinder and then you strike down and with some good pressure on the Ferro rod you have to have control shooting the Sparks directly into your Tinder what you're doing is wasting a lot of your Sparks and they're cooling down before they hit the Tinder
All the rods are working OK, its you that's not working correctly. Hold the rod near the tinder and keep the knife still, then pull the rod backwards. The spark will hit right where it should as apposed to you sending sparks every wear but the right place.Mke shore the knife as a nice flat sharp edge.
Firesteel.com very affordable I got the Gob Spark and I also have many other Ferro rods including the 6 in by 1/2 in made in China. They all work okay but the one from firesteel.com throws out so much spark it's almost scary
Say heah, I find using down to the tip and start lower than higher you won't waist your ferro rod's. I must have a softer one. I bought my 6" from Eugeme on RU-vid he makes the ace holster's, Infact I also bought a very well made leather holster for my ferro rod. I also have a Grizzly Magnisium Rod/Ferro Rod Combo. Grizzly guarantees theirs for life.,,.
Paul'ie 4X I do the exact same thing with my rods and my magnesium block and ferro rod combo. People are wasting so much of their ferro rod's. More tinder or magnesium =less striking! GRIZZLYs are lifetime guaranteed I have to get me one
I hope you have gotten yourself a Nathan4071 ferro rod, if not you should get one. He has the best on the market and his ferro rods are demanded by folk all over the world, anything else is garbage and you are wasting your money !!!
I have not yet gotten one, but I have had a ton of people recommend one to me. That is quickly landing on my short list of gear to get my hands on. I'll definitely be looking into it. It will make for an awesome comparison video too! Thanks for watching!
Lots of video producers get paid for "product placement" or have sponsors whose goods the frequently plug. I don't condemn them for maximizing income, but reputable RU-vidrs post it when they are compensated to present merchandise, and other do not. I just wanted to know which kind of recommendation yours is, paid or unpaid..
@@tomjeffersonwasright2288 haha, I got your point, but believe me, I'm a little small to be getting paid by under armour for product placement. I get RU-vid monetization and that's about it. I've probably made $8.00 on this video. Believe me... it doesn't sway my beliefs. Maybe watch some more of my channel and gauge if I'm getting paid for product placement?
Thanks! I have some more practice with this ferro rod and have better success with it now. Worth the investment for a large ferro rod...easier to handle and strike.
People who know what they are doing don’t usually have the saw teeth, need a 90° spine for ferro rods, shavings, and so you don’t chew your baton too fast