Bearded Dragon Enclosure Build: Step-by-step guide… Limited tools and expertise needed! 

Thanks for the kind words. However if you take it step by step anyone can do it. 😊

Wow, thanks soo much for taking the time to write this and for the kind words. I'm so glad the video is helpful. That's amazing that you and your wife are improving your Beardie boys life with your own builds. Great stuff 👏 ☺️

Thanks for the kind words!

Thanks soo much for the kind words! Goodluck with your build, and well done for putting in the effort to improve your scaly pets life 🙂🙏

Aww thanks soo much for that comment ☺️ soo glad you enjoyed the video!

Wow! Thanks soo much for choosing our videos to binge watch! 😃🙏 Who doesn't love a good binge!

Thanks for taking the time to write those kind words! No worries 😊 I'm soo glad this video is helpful 🦎

Thanks soo much for the kind words and supporting the channel 🙏 😀

Thanks for the positive feedback and kind words, it's greatly appreciated 🙏

Haha I'm glad I'm not the only one. Thanks 😊🙏

The lights look intimidating to me 😩😂😂

Thanks soo much for the kind words 🙏 😊

Thanks!!! 🙏☺️

Thanks for taking the time to comment. Soo glad the video proved useful!

Thanks for the kind words 😊🙏

Thanks soo much for the kind words. I'm so glad you liked the enclosure design 🙏

Thanks! 🙏😊

Thanks 😊🙏

Thanks soo much for taking the time to comment and for the kind words 🙏 I'm glad the videos are proving useful. Goodluck with all your future builds. Thanks for supporting the channel 😀

Thanks for the kind words. However it is a very simple design. Takes time, but not difficult 🙂

Thanks for the kind words!

Thanks soo much 😊🙏

Thanks for that comment. That's great to hear as this was the goal of creating this video, to get people inspired to build!

@@ReptileWay It's definitely inspiring!!! I actually love the fact that no big power tools are needed! It makes me feel like I could actually achieve this. I hope to make something like this someday but not any day soon. 😂 I am going to start off small.. with the help of your content! I've been binging your videos so I'd like to say a huge THANK YOU!! ❤️

@AnonymousAmyMakes I'm glad hear. That is a good plan. Starting off small to build confidence and skills is great! Goodluck with your builds 😊

1. I wipe down the entire enclosure with a wet cloth dipped in water with a bit of earth dish washing liquid (natural product/not harmful to reptiles/grey water safe/does not strip waterproofing) in the water. However the enclosure is checked daily for poos and is cleaned up if there is one. 2. I only remove the sand to do a full enclosure clean every 4 to 6 months as the thorough spot cleans daily (removing poo, dropped food etc) keeps the substrate in somewhat of an immaculate condition. I remove sand using a dust pan and brush. 3. Pooping on ramps or any part of grouted structure can be easily cleaned as the waterproofing (Crommelin clear pond sealer) creates almost like a fibreglass/smooth texture. The more layers of waterproofing you do, the smoother and fibreglassy texture it creates. Making it easy to wipe up poos using a damp soft cloth. Hope that helps 🙏

Thanks so much for the kind words 🙏 😊

@@ReptileWay you’re very welcome. I’m building something similar right now but for tree frogs . I don’t think I can film the entire process like you did . Once again great work and I look forward to future videos from you

@MichaelEugenio wow, Goodluck with your build! Thanks 🙏

Great tip! Thanks 🙏

Thanks soo much for the kind words! I'm so glad the video helped. I'm slighty confused as to what you mean with your question, but I'll try to answer it as best I can. When applying layers of grout, wait for each layer to completely dry before you apply another layer. The layers at the start, you may see some cracks due to the grout being of thicker consistency. No need to worry as this will get filled in as you apply the thinner layers of grout. Some people's concreting and grouting strategies, after applying their layer, they will slightly spray it with water a few times over the drying/curing period to I think reduce chances of cracks appearing. But it's time consuming because each layer takes longer to dry and personally I don't use that technique for time management reasons. Hope that somewhat helps!

Thank you! Yes, that helps

Thanks soo much for taking the time to comment and for the kind words ☺️ 🙏

That makes me so happy, you are happy 😊 😃

Thanks for taking the time to comment! The struggle is real 🤣 However with a bit of brain power there is always a way! Goodluck with your future builds!

@@ReptileWay I have ADHD, and tend to be excited and jump in and then get stuck halfway through and have to rethink things😅 I'm Canadian so don't have the same brands, but I really appreciate that you have the full item lists, it makes it way easier to not miss things😅

@@Codeexcited check out the Serpa design channel. They should hopefully use products you can get. All the best!

Unfortunately they have quite a bit of bend to them, so as they are, quite a few species of snakes could escape.

@@ReptileWay Thank you for letting me know, I had a feeling that might be the case

This is a bit of a tricky one to answer. From a basic care perspective, you are meeting the enclosure size requirements. And you should be able to raise a healthy animal in such an enclosure. However, the enclosures I design and build look at more than just basic care. They are built around enrichment and encouraging the animals to do natural behaviours by incorporating elements that mimic their wild environment. That's why I have included the textures of wood, rock and sand, it being a Central Bearded dragon. Another aspect that I think is important is maximising Surface area. This can be seen in the design by it being able to access the floor space underneath ramps as well as the ramps. These guys can be amazing sprinters over short distances and I again want to encourage such behaviours. All these elements assist the animal to express those natural behaviours, such as running, climbing, jumping, exploring. I have spent quite alot of time observing these guys out in the wild and that's why I'm quite passionate with regards to mimicking their natural environments. Another positive to this enclosure design is that all the different textures are great to assist your animal to shed. Lastly the one thing I was amazed at was that this enclosure allowed me to create quite a large temperature gradient, and the fact that the animal has to climb up higher to get warmer and can pick so many different heights to bask at to assist with thermoregulation. Again mimicking natural environments with the large temperature gradients. So to answer your question in a very long winded manner, I think an enclosure like this is definitely beneficial, and provides more enrichment than 120 gallon tank 😊

Hi! Thanks for the message, unfortunately I have moved to Victoria with all the Reptiles. Lizzy is now apart of a breeding program. But she will not be breeding this season due to the move. So I don't have any animals available for sale. Sorry I couldn't be of more help 😔

Great tip!

Thanks for the kind words 🙏 So glad you found the video useful

Thanks so much for the kind words! It is tricky to say as I think I had a few builds on the go. I would say about 1 however could be slightly over. So for me if I were to do this build again, the pond sealer can sometimes sell out, so if you have the funds and you might be doing other builds, maybe go with 2 and then you will definitely have enough 😀

@@ReptileWaythank you so much!!! Can’t wait to see more videos from you.

@user-of7bd9ld4o I have a few builds on the go, one build is finished, I just need to put it into a video. So stay tuned!

Thanks for your comment. Once the building materials have cured (most products used in this build take 7 days to cure), builds like this can comfortably withstand temperatures up to 49 degrees Celsius. Heat of this magnitude does not cause a reactions in these building materials. That's why they are a popular choice within the Reptile building community. Hope that helps 🙏

The best way of doing it is waiting until you get the light. The power cord can be disconnected from the light, allowing you to make somewhat of a smallish hole and then threading cord through the hole and connecting it back into the light. You really should measure cord yourself and drill holes according to that incase light dimensions change. Goodluck 👍

@@ReptileWay awesome! What about the T5 cords like the Arcadia ones that can’t be pulled apart (well I don’t think they can!)

@@thingamabobby The light in this video is a T5 Arcadia and can

@thingamabobby this link shows it can be pulled apart ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-85Wd6d44rQc.htmlsi=V-HvTJaod8ugRQoQ

@@ReptileWay not quite what I was after - the actual cord ends are the parts that need to fit through small holes in a melamine enclosure. But thank you!

Hi! I only build reptile products for my local area, Victoria Australia. However as of right now I am booked for the next 3+ months with builds for the RU-vid channel and my own personal collection. I think Bioactive have alot of benefits for reptiles and I've had some in the past. A great RU-vid channel to gain a wealth of knowledge in this area is SerpaDesign, as this is a big focus of the channel. I have personally made a few Bioactive enclosure for Blue-tongue Lizards and Green tree python's, however this is meant for animals in more tropical and humid environments.

@@ReptileWay Thanks for the response :) I live in Mernda Melbourne and Im in no rush to acquire an enclosure just yet so 3+ months might work for me! PS Serpadesign has awesome videos.

It's not glass as the price of glass this size is astronomical. It is clear Acrylic sheet (some refer to it as plexiglass). This is fine for Bearded dragons and some other lizard. However, I would not recommend it if you're doing a build for snakes, as this material has slight bendiness to it, which enables some snakes to escape. Here is a link to the product I used: www.bunnings.com.au/suntuf-900-x-600-x-5mm-clear-acrylic-sheet-clear_p1010490?store=6400&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhIS0BhBqEiwADAUhc8BT-8YsyekYlmTIpTpgm01kUrz1-dd_THLCzusN4WBHs23jrN6_mBoCmCoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks so much for the very kind words 😊 🙏

The normal Drylok, SerpaDesign on RU-vid uses it quite a bit, it's almost like the grout and pond sealer in one product

You have to be really careful with those groups and I do not even partake in alot of the groups besides the Australian Reptile groups. As I'm finding there is alot of misinformation about our native Australian reptiles. This style enclosure does cater to the length needed for Bearded dragons, as it is advised 120cm or more. But also these reptiles are climbing reptiles. In the wild you see them climbing fence posts, shrubs and trees, hence physical features such as long claws for climbing. You want to make sure it's not to high that it can cause physical harm and high vet bills, that's why I have stuck to this height. Even though they climb greater heights than this out in the wild. A good way to know if you are on the right track, look at scientific papers, their natural habitat, behaviours, physiology, temperature and weather in the areas they are naturally found. Another aspect people don't talk about is temperature gradient. This enclosure mimics similar temperature gradients that they would experience out in the wild. I know this, because I lived in the areas these guys are found and I conducted temperature testing in their natural habitat. An enclosure like this can give you a temperature gradient of the cool spot being 26 degrees celsius and a basking spot of 47+ degrees Celsius and has every temperature in between that, depending on where the Bearded dragon positions itself in the enclosure. In essence facilitating thermoregulation perfectly and close to wild/natural weather conditions Alot of deaths for Bearded dragons are caused by incorrect heating and lighting. I'm unaware of any deaths or animals being unhealthy or suffering from preventable diseases being due to the dimensions of enclosure like this 🤣 There comes a time when one has to realise, just because something becomes the norm , does not mean it right, or the only way of doing something. In essence there are multiple styles of reptile enclosure that can allow your reptile to thrive. Hope that helps, and gives you your sanity back 🤣

@ReptileWay Haha, it does and thank you, I appreciate the response. I argued back with a lot of them that I was giving her more space and more enrichment then just her flat 120 gallon. She's 5 years old and just doesn't seem happy in it but the few minutes I had her in the new one while testing our size dimensions for the things I was making she seemed 1. Much less stressed to be approached 2. She didn't black beard my fiance, and she almost ALWAYS black beards him when he's near her current enclosure. 3. She was more active then she usually is in her 120, though this could be from it being something new. The one I got was about 3 inches bigger all around then the one you made. I'm probably going to scrap the background I attempted to make to go for something more similar to this. It's my first time making a false background and it just didn't come out the way I had hoped, which stinks because I've worked 20 hours so far on just the foam, lol. I initially wanted something I could remove from her enclosure, but yeah, not sure it's gonna work that way 😂 I noticed that she loves to climb from the little wall she has in her current enclosure and her little building in it she climbs up all the time. I also think this design of yours is much better for temp. Gradients then mine is.

If you are talking about the grouting stage over the foam I would say yes for longevity reasons, as well as for sanitary reasons. It can take anywhere from 3 to 6 layers of grout, to make sure there is no exposed foam or holes.

Ok thanks

Nope they are fake ones from Spotlight in Australia

Good question. Because you have put waterproofing over the top of the paint work and rock work, it makes for easy cleaning. Water and a soft cloth for general cleaning. Or soapy water (I personally use earth dish washing liquid: natural based product we get in Australia, grey water safe, it does not contain nasty toxic chemicals, safe for reptiles and lots of other animals) for stuck food, it even makes for easy cleaning when it comes to a disgusting Bearded dragon poo. The waterproofing also creates a fibreglass texture, which adds to the ease of cleaning. I would avoid harsh chemicals and alcohol based cleaners as this may have a high liklihood of striping the waterproofing. Hope that helps!

No it should not be flaking off. The reasons for the flaking probably have nothing to do with the waterproofing. Something has happened earlier in the build most likely. Reasons as to why it might be flaking off: - Not carving off the shiny top layer of the spray foam off. This results in the grout not being able to adhere/stick to the surface of the sprayfoam, which results in flaking. - Using a poor quality grout/concrete or not mixing is sufficiently. - If all the layers of grout/concrete were all of a thick consistency, there will be cracks that could result in flaking. You need to start off having a thick pancake consistency of grout and as you progress through the layers of grout the grout consistency gets thinner until there are no cracks on the piece. This can take anywhere between 3 to 7 layers of grout to achieve this. Generally if you follow the simple process of: Spray foam, carve the spray foam, apply thick grout consistency for first layers, as layers progress the grout will be runnier. No cracks appear in the grout then you can move on to next steps. Which is carving into grout (optional), adding paint detailing (optional) then finally waterproofing. I hope this helps a little bit. Sometimes building can be trial and error. Goodluck 👍

@@ReptileWay thanks I sanded all the foam so maybe I put to much paint or grout on there I’ll have to restart I used the poly blend grout 3 coats and polyurethane waterproofing the top didn’t crack up the bottom. I may not of got it as good

Here's a little trick, type this into google... Example: "600mm to inches" and it gives you the answer "23.622inches" Feel free to do that for all the measurements you would like to know 🙂

For aesthetics reasons I just ordered online the arcadia lamp guard pro online. However it is somewhat pricey, so you could shop around for a different brand that would fit your light, or you could even DIY your own 😊

I ordered mine from Aquatic supplies, the one that I bought was 960mm at $84.95 (Australian dollars) plus postage. I chose this online store because it's in Australia and so am I, so it works well for me. Here's a link to where I bought mine: www.aquaticsupplies.com.au/products/arcadia-lamp-guard-pro?currency=AUD&variant=39402450780207&Google%20Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqs6lBhCxARIsAG8YcDjY4a5CXSq4tJjg-OmSlHnYMV3gQscebnFJkA0WA5RumxPAdIZplpoaAoFMEALw_wcB

It was quite a bit of time ago when I did this build, so I can't really remember 🤣 But you can search all the products on the bunnings website and you can get a better estimate.

These are fake plants

@@ReptileWay Thanks 🙏

If you did have live plants then chemical fertilizers would be a bad idea, but nutrient rich soil, and compost if needed shouldn't harm the animal.

She has a food dish it just wasn't in the video. And she has a small water dish on the bottom of the enclosure