I love this guy's videos. I was chasing intermittent lockout (once every couple days) on a beckett AFG for over 2 years. Did all the stuff, filter, screen, nozzle, electrodes, transformer. Motor replacement finally resolved the issue. I think someone with more experience than me would have gone to the motor quicker, because it was making a funny buzzing sound when it started up. New one doesn't do that and the burner starts up a lot quicker too.
Had 4 or 5 service calls because boiler would shut down every few days. We finally realized that if you hit the motor with a wrench, it would kick right on. Thanks to this video, I changed the motor, squirrel cage & coupler myself. Cost about $125. Thanks Steve!
Thanks, I learn a lot from your vids and you have a quirky sense of humor that I appreciate. Mine was a damper getting hung up- used some sandpaper to clean around the bottom of the damper vent and then it worked fine. The damper was getting hung up on rust or debris. Over time the hinge pins of the damper wore down the holes on each side because of movement of the damper plate ,it touched the bottom of the vent pipe. I sanded the bottom edge of the plate a little too with some 80 grit paper so it moved freely. There's enough clearance now and it's running fine. I'm sure this isn't always the case, but it may help someone if that's what's causing it to shut down.
Steve - you were right. I checked the pump again by jumping out the FF and verifying the flow. My flow was ok for a few seconds and then dropped significantly. I proceeded to take the filter apart and check the flow at the shut off valve, it was minimal. I used a CO2 gun to blast air back toured the tank. I reopen the shut off valve and found the flow to be a lot stronger. I put everything back together and bled the pump. The system has been running fine since about 3:45pm today. Thanks again for your help, I truly enjoy your videos and learn a lot.
STEVEN THANKS FOR WAHT YOU DOYOUR DOING A GOOD THING HERE. I have a basic af-10 beckett's oil burner with the same issue. I get oil from the pump, have changed out the controller and the cad cell. Ignighter looks good and electrodes also look good. I ordered a new motor to try next. I am in Maine retired from the military grew up in new bedford MA> Seen some familiar sights from you windshield in the videos. Thanks Bud
Hey Steve, I have a Gilbert &Barco oil fired hot air furnace that has been in operation since 1952. Same old burner assy. I rebuilt the fire pot once and rewelded parts of the rear a few years ago.. but it's still running.
This past week, my snowbird in-laws 1996 Miller hot air unit with Beckett was tripping out when no one was around. They had 'a guy' come and clean it. He seemed knowledgeable. Same problem came back, so he said the motor was making noise and was too buys to come back soon. I looked at it and figured I could change it, and the oil pump was definitely squealing, so I changed that instead along with the filters and nozzle. Squealing went away, but same problem shutting off, so I changed both the motor and primary- I put on a Carlin- very nice unit, and also new transformer and electrodes. I even put 2 bottles of hotshot in and recirculated the oil in the tank with a pump. The primary would flash green for a little bit, then go solid and run. But the same problem came back, would run all night the off again in the morning. Turns out the f*cking guy who cleaned it opened the air setting way to far- almost all the way, and was blowing out the fire. I had no Idea as to how much that made a difference. What a f*cking $nightmare$. But I sure learned a lot- try the free adjustment stuff first!!
Oddly comforting to listen to you breath through your nose while you’re working. Reminds me of being beside my FATHA when I was a kid while he was fixing something or OTHA.
Im not sure if anyone said this yet but when checking the spark make absolutely certain the handle doesn't have any cracks. I got blasted by a transformer due to a hairline crack. There is more than enough voltage to kill you dead right there. Luckily for me i was using a screwdriver intended for high voltage work.
Thanks for sharing. I had an intermittent problem like this, and it kept tripping out. I checked the spark and it had decent spark at the transformer. But ultimately it was one of the newer digital style transformers that would work on and off. Also I had my thermostat programmed so temps went down at night, burner wouldn't fire much until morning, and it would lockout over night. Sometimes it would happen in a few days, weeks, and months. I replaced with an iron core / non-solid state style transformer as I think steve has suggested in other videos.
Paul Lesogor Yeah the intermittent spark cant blaze through small inconstancy in oil flow. Might have a small vac leak or other crud. A tiger loop is a fine addition when converting to an intermittent spark.
I have gotten the same issue going on and it's like below zero all this week up here in Maine and it looks like my furnace needs a motor to hopefully it's not too costly thanks for the video this to help me a lot now I know what the issue is I've taken apart my furnace before and cleaned it it might be the tip but by looking at my motor it looks like it's really old
I've gone through many burner maintenance companies over the years. The first one (an oil dealer) was trying to sell the business, and, to boost profits (to get a higher price for the business) went through the neighborhood and told each homeowner that his burner was about to fail due to cracks in the combustion chamber. ["It'll burn your house down! You need a new boiler/furnace."] I got a second opinion and was shown that the liner had lots of crud built up, and the crud had cracks. The liner and combustion chamber/box were fine. Solution: do nothing or line the chamber. This was about 30 years ago. Boiler is still fine. Many neighbors have had maintainers who like to "soup-up" the burners, usually by replacing the nozzle with one with different specs. from the original. Many would fail to light intermittently after the modification. My latest problem is that the maintainer likes to use the modern electrode adjustment specs. from the manufacturer (Wayne), which are different from the specs. printed on the burner. When adjusted according to what's on the burner, the burner lights reliably, at least until the electrodes are burned down pretty far (longer than the interval between tune-ups). When adjusted according to modern specs., it'll fail to light within a day or two. [I contacted Wayne; they said, "If the old specs. work, use them. -Can we sell you a new burner?"] I considered getting one of those jigs for adjusting the electrodes, but it isn't clear what specs. they implement. [After the latest tune-up (several months ago), when the burner failed to light (multiple times in three days), I just adjusted the electrodes myself with a steel rule. It's been running fine since.]
Hi folks, had same issue, reset would trip once or twice per day. When I press the reset, the transformer would whine, def had the spark, felt the motor and noticed it was getting hot on one side. Next time this happened, I spun the blade then pressed the reset, no more whine and motor starter spinning. So no I knew the motor was the problem (original motor). Of course, I already changed all the filters, screen filter in the pump, checked flow, cleaned electrodes and spray nozzle.
I've been a hvac service tech for 20 years now. 95% of the time when the burner trips out once a day or so at random times, change the transformer/ igniter & electrodes and takes care of it every single time. Except that tiny 5% lol. But that aside, I do like the videos you've done, at least someone on here seems like a real service tech. Thank you again.
Had a similar issue. It has an oil heater on the nozzle assembly unit. The wires for it were partially obscuring the view of the photocell that looks for fire.
Im sericing mine own heater and the money I save just trying to figure it out. So far switch and nozzle and it ran fine for 24 hours now it shit off faster. Motor looks easy enough plus my brother does this kind of work and I just have him on what's app t see what I'm doing. Great video I have been telling him that the motor sounds like the fins are worn.
good video,, sort of like when you take your car with a squeak to the mechanic and when you get it there it dont squeak no more. hope you got it ,, good job good vid bet you like the challenge of diagnosing those "hidden problems"
steven lavimoniere let’s be honest, it was because of the replaced coupler and not the motor. Motor had a manual reset overload. If that were intermittently overheating like you suspected. That would trip. Not the primary control
Hi Steven, I certainly appreciate what your doing with your videos. I have learned how to check a transformer and have replaced that. My parents have an old Heil oil burner that I am trying to get running for them. The have been space heating for the past few years and with a large house that just not enough. When I turn on the breaker the Furnace will fire right up and run a whole cycle bringing the house up to temperature. When the thermostat triggers it to start again it will turn on the blower for the burn chamber and fuel but no ignition. Every time I allow the heater to go 20 mins or so without any electric and then turn the breaker back on it fires perfect. What should I look at next
I am taking the tank out of the ground, the new tank will be a gravity flow system to the burner, should I have a one way valve between the tank and the burner in case I have a leak so it won't drain all the fuel out of the tank in my garage? If I do what kind of valve and where are they sold?
Enjoy watching your videos. I have a question to ask you. Can a fuel pressure gauge be installed permanently on the the fuel pump? One could simply tell a glance as to the output pressure anytime.
Mine tripped b/c the start/run capacitor blew so when the burner started , the load line set temperatures kicked in and told the unit to shut off, as the main fan wasnt running. I could start the fan by hand when a load line run temp allowed it. Was a beast to troubleshoot, the oil tech company set out changed filter, cad cell, oil nozzle, ait filter, was starting to look like parts cannon fixing. So after watching some videos it was the blown capacitor.
I only know enough to be dangerous but wouldn't checking the flame sensor and igniter control box be before changing the motor? I would have guessed a flame sensor or fouled probes..
I notice you do not use the gasket provided with the Allanson transformer, I once forgot to install it and lived with a low level hum for a few days. It actually resonated through the house.
We have same oil burner type unit. It works when the tech is here then after he leaves and temperature gets up then it shuts off after it tries coming back on it won’t light. What could be the problem
Yeah the newer style "solid state" ignition transformers are a pain in the ass because they get intermittent... Like they work then they dont and usually 95% of the time it's a intermittent transformer. We have a F3 Beckette model with the 51771U ignition transformers get intermittent with our furnace. We have had to replace them every 5-10 years. We have gotten now so we always keep a spare on hand since they go up so frequently.
I can’t get my copper fuel line from the pump to the burner to stop leaking fuel at the burner, where it screws into the igniter. Tried tightening it leak got better but still there, think I need to replace the copper line?
My fuel oil is coming out frothy. Pump is a year old. Tank is above boiler. Can't figure out why fuel is doing this. Checked flare nut at tank appears good( out of top of tank). Would sludge do this? Wondering if I should blow the line back to tank.
So, repairing forced air oil furnaces is just like being a doctor. Keep replacing parts and trying different things until you hit the one that works. Thanks for the videos.
I have the same problem right now, good oil flow, cleaned the screen in the pump, checked cumtomers replacement of fuel filter.. power to transformer but no spark and no psi on water, feed and backflow dead. 1st visit new transformer, nozzel, and water feed, fixed the customers' shotty install of new electrodes. Second visit replaced the controller to new smart controller from old. 3rd visit to be seen but I'm going flipping crazy over hear. Already eating 170.00... 😢
Great job Steve. I've been reading the comments here and people blame the electronic igniters. the older callin electronic igniters had a built in thermal overload that would trip than it would reset itself.
I too have a similar system. My tank is outside and i believe that because there is a lot of sludge in my tank and my tank is under the ground. Is there any cleaning solution that i can use perhaps once a month that i can pour into my tank outside?
Did the motor swap actually fix this issue? I don’t see an update. Was it off on safety or just fail to start? Primary control with intermittent issues can be a challenging cause to diagnose too
my blast tube get oil and it drips down to bottom of the burner and motor. I did all, replaced the nozzle, set the electrode, but keep seeing oil at the beginning of blast tube. I can't really tell where the oil's come from, but I do see it. Any suggestion?
Steve ... would a bad themastat cause such issues ... intermitent ? .. had service callls .. replaced pump nossle etc .. last thing they replaced was the digital themastat... no issue after that ...
I had this issue. Turns out it was caused by my burners power vent system. An overgrown shrub was interferring with the vent exhaust flow and intermittently tripping the safety and shutting down the burner. Trimming back the bush fixed the issue.
I just had my furnace cleaned. Told the guy it tripped once. He tested the transformer with a screwdriver said it was good. That was a few weeks ago. Now it tripped 2 more times & he wants another service call. I have a relay on the pump the control is a Honeywell R8184G4009 which is old. When I press the reset button it clicks fast the furnace will run & stay running for weeks. The motor is 11 years old. Any ideas?
Old motor uses a start capacitor with a set of contacts that open, dropping the cap out once it gets up to speed. New motor is the revised PSC style that’s supposed to be more efficient, and doesn’t have contacts to jam, or wear out.
That`s probably got it. I have had a few cracked F3 burner heads that would give intermittent lock out. Some old burners are just enough off spec on every thing they should be set upon with a hammer and put out of their misery. Enjoyed the video.
Mines doing the same thing, I get a hard lockout and reads TT Closed Limit Closed. I replace the transformer, cad eye, and primary control. It runs for a day and lock out then I have to reset it. The motor sounds fine but could it be bad and is that the problem?
All the parts of my burner are new the pump the transformer the electros the nozze line the controller the cad cell and my burner still ahuts off after 50 sec what could be the problem??
Hi Steve I've been without heat for several days, I have a Beckett similar to this one on the video. My oil furnace trips out every 1-4 minutes. I have had done a tune up, new pump, in 2017 got a new tranformer, nozzle system have been cleaned, cad cell looks clean and reads well, lines have been bleed, it come out good and red I even placed a new reset box, but still trips out. The only thing I see that is left it's my motor. My motor starts and burner flames right away. My motor reset button popped out once but continued to start after I pressed the reset. However seeing this video it seemed like the motor started aswell and still the motor was bad. I need help not sure what to do, I even hard wired the motor for approx 2 min, to see if it tripped out and it didn't dont know if I should of hard wired for longer, but however I NEED HELP!!! Love your videos Steve il wait your response. Thanks God bless!!
My system was just tuned up a month ago. The last couple days I have to hit the reset button to get it to fire up... It runs fine... Later when it cools back down it doesn't kick on automatically like it should via the thermostat... So I gotta go hit the button again... Again, runs fine after this... What is my problem??
Maybe that's wrong with mine. Sometimes I run a week before it wont start in the morning and trips out. Lately its like everyday. Usually once reset it fine for a while. I wouldn't mind but I don't have inside access to the basement lol .
I use to work on oil fired boilers years ago. We had one that would go off several times. Man we were stumped as to what might be happening? Finally after running it off and on several times, the safety control was tripping like a minute after the unit shut down, like it was thinking the burner was running with no fire, then trip out.
I bet the primary was shot, possible electric surge or power outage corrupts the primaries circuits and if you ohm test the cad cell FF terminals and it jumps to 1600 and above it kills itself thinking there’s no fire seen by the cad cell eye. Unfortunately there’s a few things that can be the issue so it can be frustrating to narrow down which one. Been there done that.
@@oharedwa7792 some times the ohms and amp draw is normal. But a bearing starting to go bad can heat up and cause drag on the motor. Once that happens, amps will rise, but you need to be there to catch it. That will cause the motor to over heat and shut down. Once everything cools down and the OL resets, all is normal again for a little while. Although I agree checking amperage draw and ohms is standard procedure, it won't ALWAYS reveal an intermittent problem.
I don't understand why the motor is bad yet still runs. My burner flames on and burns well, but after about 30 minutes the reset button pops out. If I wait a few minutes, it restarts and then runs for less time and then the button pops out again. I changed out a faulty oil pump and now that works well. The spark is strong and there is a new nozzle. So it comes down to three issues: the motor, the reset controller or maybe the aquastat attached to the boiler. Any ideas?
If oil filter and screen filter in oil pump are clean, check/change electrodes, clean/ change nozzel, clean/change eye cell, if all that fails --> change out reset controller, I would do motor last.
Poor me..I've been running my AC for over a month LOL. NOW...... The flood waters are a pain in the ass here in Houston :>} 40 days and 40 nights of rain
Hi Steve, my burner is tripping out every ten minutes. The pump is working (plenty of flow), I replaced the transformer, nozzle and electrodes along with doing the annual cleaning this summer. What do you think is kicking out the the burner? From this video it seems like it might be the motor...
+Carlos Umana what it and see what it does could be a pump. sometimes its running to lean can do that . every 10 minites i would have to be there looking at it to make a ruling on it
