You for got to mention Ascorbic acid, I have followed the advice from Genus Brewing and have been putting 5g in my mash on every beer I have brewed in the last year. I didn't notice a tremendous difference in all the beers but definitely it helped preserve shelf life of my hoppy beers flavor! I believe you can use it at packaging as well but haven't tried that yet. Great video, cheers!
I was thinking the same thing. I've been doing the same after watching that Genus Brewing video. I was hoping Martin would have covered that. And yes JimFosterVO 5gm per 5 gallon batch. I just crush mine up and dump it in the mash with my salt additions.
Charlie Papazian recommended putting cinnamon in the mash as an antioxidant in a Basic Brewing Radio podcast. I have been putting a half teaspoon in the mash for 25 liter batches and I have had great results about 80 batches in. No, you can't taste the cinnamon!
I tried 0.3g potassium metabisulphite into 4.4 gallons at packaging with a Two Hearted clone IPA recipe and ended up with a rotten-egg bomb. It took several weeks of CO2 scrubbing and letting the beer sit to finally get rid of it. I have not been brave enough to try it again.
Thanks for the video. Brewtan B used the mash and boil is more about leaving "stuff" behind at each stage than final beer clarity. This results in very clear wort throughout the brewing process which helps will shelf stability and staling. Since SMB is on topic, why not put it in the mash (strike water) and go towards low oxygen? I believe it would help more than in the keg.
The half a campden tablet is a no brainer. Never considered acidifying as a way to preserve beer. Never even heard of the last thingy. I may use all three in my next NEIPA. As a matter of fact I’ve been avoiding the style because of oxidation problems in the past. Hmmm…
Great video. What about ascorbic acid? I always add some before bottling and it does a great job at improving the shelf life. I made heavily hopped IPAs that I bottled (no close transfer) and I never got any signs of oxidation. I would be very curious to know what think. Thanks!
My struggle is because I do closed transfers I can't decide between doing campden/ascorbic and CO2 purge or full keg starsan with a CO2 purge. Because CO2 and O2 are highly mixable, I have read its actually very hard to fully remove O2 if you don't fill with a denser (water) solution. So, I am trying to really understand if one method is objectively better than the other.
Please warn people if you are going to be putting metabisulfites in your beer! I had one at a home brew exchange and went all itchy and blotchy, then found out the guy had put either camden or some other kind in there. I was fine after an antihistamine but for an asthmatic it could be really bad. Not sure if he put too much in or what. I feel itchy now just remembering it.
I've just started using it. 1/8 tsp with any late dry hops and/or at kegging. It seems to have made a difference. I no longer get "oxidized" checked off on my competition score sheets.
@@RadoGG I haven't tried, but it should. Ascorbic acid is an antioxidant that shouldn't affect the yeast while bottle carbonating. Potassium sorbate or potassium metabisulfate would cause issues though
@@ridley8340 Should be, but noone specifies and the cheapo pH pens (which are already inaccurate) do not temp correct., so new brewers go to pH adjust and kick the pH too low, as at mash temp the correction is around +0.3pH (compared to room temp)
@@Dinie09 Indeed but the answer is always measure at room temperature, ATC is fine if your wort is at 23C instead of 20C for example but if you measure at mash temperature then you are just going to screw your bulb sooner or later. If people use cheap pH meters then they get what they pay for unfortunately.
This is the struggle. You COULD do a syringe with it in solution I guess. Like any finer. But, yes... this is what I am been trying to decide on... doing campden/ascrobic vs a full keg purge.
I've seen people use a plastic bottle (like a 2-liter soda bottle) with a gas post attachment cap, then put on a short length of beer line with a gas attachment on either end, so they can squeeze liquid from the bottle into the keg. You'll want to mix up way more solution of whatever you're adding so as to not squeeze air into the keg.
Martin, could you test if there is any difference within the same batch of beer when one part of it is transfered to keg with closed transfer and the other one that isnt? (simply racked through the open lid and later purged 2-3times). I wonder if there is any noticeble difference for regular pilsner, pale ales etc.
