There's a relatively new company that I've heard makes the best oil and gas treatments, it's called ATS out of New Mexico, US. You should check it out sometime and maybe do a comparison video. Thanks
Used this on my Volkswagen Jetta and noticed a difference. It feels more responsive and feels like the idle smoothed out completely almost like an electric car. 10/10 product
@@notsureyou I'm guessing the intended audience here are those interested or are on the receiving end of the problem. Or maybe newbie DIY'ers, I'm pretty glad we've got this expanding community of those trying a decent brand, just for science.
Have just bought a VW GOLF TDI that has only done 3000 miles in four years. It is at the 102.000 on the mileage & is in need of a cam belt as it has not been replace from new. Have a couple of recalls to take care of & will get the all done before do the same thing as you have done. I might d9 1x Sludge removal & the a straight forward engine flush. This all depends on how she drives after the first sludge removal. If zero difference then as you have just done throw another sludge remover in to the engine. Thanks for the before and after pictures
I would allow gradual engine cleaning using Mobil Super 5000 on those Toyotas if you can get it and change every 3000-5000 km. Otherwise the best Mobil Super you can get, like the 2000 stuff you have. This allows any seals that have been covered up by sludge to gradually come into contact with fresh oil and the normal amount of seal sweller in it. Always when it comes time to change the oil, only after a good 15 minute plus highway run. All sorts of stuff just falls out at drain time that otherwise may be hung up on things above.
I have had a failure of all 4 rod bearings in a 1ZZ at 64K miles because the pickup was clogged. This happened because of excessive RTV use. The oil light didn't come on once. You need to take the pan off to be 100% sure there is no clog. The oil light doesn't come on until the pressure is under 4psi - meaning damage can easily be done without it turning on at basically anything beyond idle.
You may use Pro Line Engine flush next time. Its results are far better than it. I used that in my Volkswagen Tiguan 2.0 TSI 2019 Model. Believe me. I'm feeling like i have a new Engine in my car. And don't forget to add the liquid Moly Ceratec in your new Engine oil after flush. It will help Engine to get ride on flush effects
You do not have to do the flushes every change. You will be fine so as long as you change your oil every 5k miles. Do the flushes every 30K miles. That's the recommendations I get from most mechanics and it is what I use myself.
i don't udnerstand why ppl using flushes oil basicaly is for changing oil brand that u use flush in first place* if u never change oil u don't need flush at all and the engine would not go break as they tho in first place they have wrong idea about flush product LUL
I idled the car for a total of 70 minutes. I also DID rev the engine about 6 times, a few seconds at a time to make sure the oil is getting where it needs to get in order to clean. I also changed the oil filter before I began the process.
My 2000 Camry has 456k miles on her engine I've never had the engine flushed before or. I've owned the car since she only had 700 miles So I've been doing the same Oil change maintenance things So I know the car has never skipped a change And is in excellent mechanical shape. Driving back and forth on the Florida turnpike which is where she has gotten a majority of a miles from I still get get North of 35MPG even with luggage packed in the Trone way and an entire paycheck worth of Costco coming the other way I still get awesome gas mileage and she still is as smooth as silk but I probably should get an engine oil flash right ??
Not really. Won't fix it if it's not broken, plus your car seems to have enjoyed mostly highway miles; that's totally different to a car driven mainly city. Personally, I won't flush.
Good question. I think it depends on the history of the car. I won't just do it for the sake of it, however if you have sludge already, the engine will surely die if you don't do anything about it. Just a question of time. Doing something can also include gentle cleaning with better motor oil and shorter oil change intervals. The decision has to be taken on a case by case basis.
One thing I would do differently is use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic oil. It has better detergents than Mobil 1 and it will make your engine run smoother and quieter than the Mobil 1.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I agree with bdtaylor1979. I too, highly recommend the Platinum Synthetic with pure plus technology from Pennzoil. I mostly drive older japanese cars with high mileage. In 2020, I bought an '02 camry with 200k mi. Fortunately, it didn't have any leaking or sludge, and it didn't burn any oil. But I could tell that previous owners had neglected the car by going past the oil change interval reguarly when I changed the valve cover gasket. I used a new filter & clean cheap oil with a flushing solution just to make sure. When I changed the oil again after the flush, I used the Pure plus High Mileage synthetic(aka: Platinum synthetic) with a Wix Xp filter, and the car ran so much smoother, and even regained some power! I also ran the same high mileage synthetic in my '95 accord ex for the 3yrs I owned it. The accord had 350k mi., and It was one of the first cars to have VTEC, But it was only on the intake side since it was a SOHC. I took it to a mechanic friend to make sure the VTEC was in proper adjustment since I was using the accord as a delivery vehicle at the time, and was averaging 100-150mi./day. Shortly after dropping off the car at his shop, my friend called me demanding to know what oil I had been running. In his decades of turning wrenches as a professional mechanic, He had never seen an engine with such high mileage that had a valvetrain that still looked so new & unworn. I found out that the Ultra Platinum/Pure Plus technology synthetic line from pennzoil has natural gas as a base instead of crude oil like the other synthetics, so not only is the detergent additives really good, and even the vapors generated from driving around have cleaning properties. In the 3yrs I daily driven the accord, I never touched the PCV valve, or flushed the engine. When I went to pick up the accord, my mechanic friend showed me pictures of the valvetrain, the PCV valve, and the inside of the valve cover. All of them looked spotless & new. Since then, that's the only oil I've ran in all my cars, and my family members cars with excellent results. I never go past 5k mi. with my change intervals. I used to run mobil1 synthetic, but it never got the same improvements in performance results as the Pure Plus synthetics from Pennzoil. I was thinking about tying out the Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit from BG in one of my other cars. You can find it on amazon for $300(USD) which I agree, is very expensive. I've heard really promising results. I also found out from Ford Boss Me that the 'rinse oil' from the restoration kit comes in smaller cans of flush called 'EPR', and is actually the more aggressive cleaners between the 2 flushes in BG's restoration kit. And am interested in seeing for myself how well it works for another old toyota I drive. Thanks for the videos, DIY!!
I went into some of those details in the update video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BgMrUhZPOSk.htmlsi=5OYjjtJgCF0nYyqt Largely, low oil and a stuck pcv valve.
Great improvement. Beggars belief that some car owners allow their vehicle to get into this state. Saying that, like most people eat junk food and wonder why they feel awful and become fat, a car needs regular maintenance with healthy ingredients to keep it running smoothly. 😅
I did this on my 2006 Lancer but ended up spending too much on Liqui Moly, Engine oil and all. It was cheaper to remove the top cover and oil drain pan. Clean what you can by hand. We ended up overhauling the engine anyway and it looks super clean compared to 2023 cars now. Looks brand new. Aluminum color can be seen. No signs of oil sludge whatsoever. For my 2020 Hyundai Accent, I am no longer buying a Liqui Moly flush and just changing the oil more often now. We have a cheaper engine oil flush solution. After 1000km, I will just have the oil changed after pouring the cheap engine flush that isn't Liqui Moly. Usually after about 3 engine flushes, the oil always comes out clean.
It's Gr8 what you have done, however, there is no substitute for proper maintenance and regular oil and filter changes. Doing this you don't need engine flushes, the detergents in quality oils takes care of sludge and deposits.
Old fella taught me this... Drain the oil out, fill with diesel, crank the engine without starting, drain the diesel, repeat until clear. Then let the engine drain, new oil filter, net oil and presto, for a low cost
@@Kris-82 nope. You don't start the engine, you just want to rotate it. Easier to use the starter than doing this by hand on a Scania V8 me thinks. Also, diesel is a surprisingly decent lubricant at low temps.
Thank you will try the engine flush in my next service. Please guy I request you can i try 5W20 Liqui moly engine oil for refil or buy standard Ford Motorcraft 5W20 engine oil. Which engine oil better for Ford edge 2014 Limited 3.5L V6
Yes. The procedure was done twice. The first one I did not inspect the valvetrain, the 2nd time is what I showed in the video. 1st LM went in before doing an oil with all the sludge. This video was 4500miles after that first one.
What happens when this sludge has drooped down in the pan and cylinder head passages that you can’t see with the naked eye working its way into oil filter and you not knowing it hard to belive it’s just breaking down and disappearing
So drain the old oil. Put new oil and filter in and add engine flush. Then drain new oil and change filter again and put new oil? So do an oil change twice? On the bottle it just says to add it before an oil change, nothint about doing it twice
I did change my oil twice I know it seems like a waste but I wanting to get the detergents out of the engine so they would not eat gaskets away and cause leaks I couldn't believe the fresh oil I put in after the flush just running for 20 minutes look like it had been in the car for 5000 miles
@robertgarlinger9688 Yea, I've seen some do this as well. Always good to do something you believe isln as long as there's a science to it. E.g. Me changing the oil filter before the flush. I likely won't do it next time except if the car has some heavy sludge.
So for me, I've used old filter, flush in, idle 30 mins, drain let it drain 30min, new cheap oil, idle 30 mins, drain 30min, new filter, new sump, new crush, new good oil. This is expensive. But next flush, I'll just change new oil once, but use a good pump really suck out all residue oil.
Thanks for sharing. It's best to go with the manufacturers recommendation though, so won't try raised RPM is Liqui Moly is saying to leave it to idle. Might lead to wear.
You're right, especially on older cars. I can't say I've noticed any new oil leaks, save for the power steering leak it has, which isn't as a result of the flush.
It all depends on the state of the engine. In an engine experiencing oil burning from sticky or stuck piston oil control rings, cleaning sludge will help reduce or stop oil burning. In an abused engine that is worn, oil use should increase if sludge was sealing off some oil consumption.
If I’m flushing my car that has an oil stabiliser additive already in the oil (Lucas oil stabiliser), should I add more flush additive then usual or let it run longer? The stabiliser additive is very thick so not sure if this would effect the capabilities of the Liqui moly flush plus…
Pre filling the oil filter is a waste of time, unless its a massive truck filter. I usually stick to a good oil like Mannol, Eni, Liqui Moly and service as per schedule 10k-15k KM depending on the quality of oil. Mannol oil is excellent and is PAO Ester based at least with my VW 504/507, in my area Australia it is cheaper than competition if bought online and especially bulk.
I don’t have TOYOTA but friend of mine got this problem and asking me to do something, I’m not a mechanic > Poured 500ml Liqui Moly PRO-LINE , idling for 15 minutes, drained, changed filter, filled up with fully synthetic oil, PLUS I filled up 25ml LM again, asked him to drive normally ‘till 3K and change the oil pls ! it’s worked😂& he’s happy too
Solvent based flush should be avoided. Solvents degrade the oils lubrication which is why they say to only idle the engine. A detergent based flush with added zinc is best and you can drive around for 10 minutes with these. Solvents also harden rubber seals which is another reason to avoid
Definitely agree it dilutes the lubricity of oils, but well-made solvents don't degrade rubber seals. This one specifically says it won't affect rubber seals. I'm not sure how much wear this can cause in a hot engine considering it idles for the said 15mins. But point taken.
I’m afraid to try and remove the sludge in my car because in case all of it doesn’t break down and a chunk gets into a passage and basically my engine is screwed :( idk what to do
If you're scared, you could go the gentle route. Get a very good oil with high detergent activity. Valvoline restore and protect claims to remove 100% or carbon with repeated use. Maybe try that.
I have a 2005 honda accord, i have been using 20W50 engine oil, i have been changing the oil on regular bases .the engine does not have any sludge , i was thinking of changing to a lower grade of oil like 10W40 what brand or spec will u recomend i use t thanks
I think any good brand with the US API starburst symbol should be good. Through time I've used different brands: Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol, STP, Pennzoil etc.
@abdulahiusman5519 One step at a time. If you have 10w-40 conventional or even 10w-30, I'd start with that for the next 2 oil changes and see if you have any increased oil consumption. After that you can try semi-synthetic of the same weight, while checking for leaks etc.
Try a non-synthetic-oil with AUTO RX and a rinse cycle; slow gentle cleaning, and it works. That is some gentle "sludge" in your video; in the 80's cars and trucks had 'coked up' oil, oil that was baked, on top of the head - it was gritty - and there was/is no way to get it back into solution so that it can drain out; some heads will 'sludge' and some will not ... and some will coke-up; of course, oil was Quaker state that year (1980s) and you could coke it in a cast iron skillet over a big propane burner, it was that bad; these are good times for oil - enjoy the good times;
You can put a Can of Wynn`s Lifter Concentrate on every new oil and one Can - 300 miles before oil change. After 3 oil changes and interval between them was 3000 miles, my engine looks more cleaner.
Been a minute as I've been away for a while, but still you never fail to disappoint. Video is clear and concise, no beating around the bush. Ps. I honestly think LiquiMoly has the best engine performance and care products in the market (at least the Nigeran market).
is this considered risky considering it can clean a sludge that prevented a leak..is this the same as a professional flush or is that a totally different method?..because they warn about any flushes.
Sludge is not good for an engine. If, after flushing you notice a leak, get it fixed. Regularly removing carbon and or sludge will give you many more years of happy motoring 👍😀
The jury is definitely out on flushes - the 2 schools of thought; For vs Against. As you can tell, I'm in the 'For' camp. Sludge if left will eventually starve critical components of lubrication/hydraulic pressure, leading to engine wear and failure. As @BandiMasha states, I'd rather fix the leak. However if its a car you want to ride out till its death, then probably no need to flush.
@DIYAutoworksNG my main concern is that the sludge bigger chunks will get stuck in places causing issues. I was thinking about to doing this to my 3.8 gm motor but I've been a little hesitant. It's not a vvt tho so I'm less worried. What's your opinion? Thanks for the video.
I actually have a video on when I eventually pulled the VVT for cleaning. It wasn't that bad, but I think that's because the flush worked well and I continued to do serial flushes, also the sludge wasn't the black caked-on type.
nice vid. only thing i would do different is after using engine flush i would change oil twice cuz its impossible to drain all oil and 200-500ml are left in engine. would run cheaper oil for 30min again with new cheaper filter and drain again. would not use flush every oil change cuz it eats gaskets and just change oil every 4k miles/6months(5months if driving in cold conditions and short distances) if engine condition was like this before.
Nice perspective. The decision to do multiple flushes is just because Liqui Moly clearly states that the product does not attack seals. If I were using diesel or kerosene, I wouldn't do it regularly. Totally agree with everything else.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Never knew they stated that it doesnt eat seals, just heard from couple bmw owners that it eats seals, but maybe its just bmw thing they always leak, never tested flush product and kinda scared to put it in my 15year old 1zzfe engine cuz just changed clutch and didnt take flywheel off to change rear main seal so i dont want again to go in all that costly pain to remove transmission.
Let me ask about the sct oil filter. I had used one before without any issues, but do you use them? If yes please tell me your opinion. Thanks in advance :)
With an engine that sludgy, it pays to first drain the old oil, add the cheapest oil and filter you can find and then do the engine flush. I did that on my car. First I did a normal oil and filter change with very cheap stuff. I drove the car for 100km and added the oil flush to the hot engine. After 10 minutes the once new oil was very black.
штука хорошоая, пользовался мягкой промывкой на 200км самый лучший результат по капельным пробам, сравнивал с лавром и хайгир, но сейчас она очень дорогая, смысла нет в старый движек такое заливать
@@YomAlwa3eed yeah kinda. The flush thinned out the new oil I put in cause u can't get it all out. Had to change soon after when I heard my motor start clunking. (Old and worn car and you might not notice that the oil is bad in a new car.)
Good video overall, but i would really recommend against prefilling your oil filter. You are creating an unnecessary risk of having foreign debris on the output side of your filter (meaning it hasnt been filtered), which can potentially go straight to your main bearings (crank bearings), causing increased wear, clogging/restricted flow, both of which can cause premature failure. While I havent personally seen this happen (I NEVER prefill my filters), I have heard of it from colleagues I trust. If you want to prime the filter before starting the car in question, I would either disconnect the fuel electronically (injectors or high pressure fuel pump), or simple just press the accelerator all he way to the floor, to enable anti-flood mode, which will disable the fuel system, and allow you to prime the engine, without having the engine running. Thats my take on it anyway 😊 Best regards A fully educated mechanic and educated Nissan technician
Perfect way: 1- Drain old oil and remove filter 2- Put cheap oil in + flush + new filter and run idle for about 20 minutes 3- Drain again and fill up with cheap oil + filter 4- Drain again and Fill up with Quality oil + Filter
@@uchechukwuajalam Option 1 is to do regular oil changes using quality a engine oil (and filter) and prevent this situation from happening in the first place. Option 2 is to not do that, which leads to option A or B Option A do the flush in a way that will be the most effective, Option B is to do the flush in the most cost effective way. At the end of the day, each to their own :-)
@@DIYAutoworksNG I'll agree on bad designs but it is more likely or not increased by not doing timely oil and filter changes, some people go 10,000 - 15,000 miles between oil changes and their engines usually fail by 50,000 miles and are sludge pots.
Yeah, but not everyone buys their car new, most people on the road are in used cars they bought after 50k miles or so. Almost all used cars don’t even all their service records.
Leaving the sludge in there will clog those and even lead to spun bearings. I'd say with a flush, the oil becomes noticeably thinner and should be able to do a better job of getting stuff out of there. There's a reason sludge was called the black death back in the day.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Saw it happen at a Ford/ Mercury dealership I worked at. customer had an engine flush done, week later he was in for an engine. Ran the bearings out big time. Light will go out with about seven lbs pressure. Probably would be ok in town, at highway speed, things go bad.
Great video that definitely deserve more view and likes. h Btw how do u feel about the engine, its' performance, noise, vibration after the engine flush plus treatment?
Engine feels quite fine. No smoking from the exhaust, no visible wear on camshaft lobes. It could be a tad quieter though. Not like it got noisier after the flush. I'll keep flushing it as mentioned till its spanking clean. It should have less noise then.
Weldone sir. Good info video u have just dished out & its certain, LIGUI MOLY is clear. However, i am more on the engine oil u used as seen in the video. MOBIL SUPER 2000 5W30. I've heard people discourage others from making use of such engine oil because of the cheap nature & not up to standard with MOBIL 1. They claimed it forms sludge in the engines but seeing u use it is giving me different opinion. Will like u to plz, educate me on the points i highlighted. THANKS.
Thanks for the compliment! The oil weight and certification are more important factors than brand in some sense. Also Exxon Mobil is a leading global brand so I won't really be worried about product quality. I'll be flushing and changing the oil in the car at around every 3000 miles until all sludge is gone, so the choice of oil makes sense to me. No doubt that full synthetic oil is better, but don't simply buy Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w-40 when your car calls for 5w-30 or 0w-20.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks for the reply as it really means a lot to me. However, i on see this particular brand with the oil weight of 5w30 which is against the 5w20 honda accord 2006 recommend. Though, i was in a fix at a point & i had no choice but to make use of 5w30 from another brand. My question is, can i just safely use this 5w30 from mobil for my car? Though, i want to play safe by using a cheaper engine oil due to the harsh realities we are experiencing in the country now & i fill Exxon mobil being a reputable company as u say will do it for me without regrets.
It is a good oil, in fact it is Mobil's best non-full synthetic oil. It is actually semi-synthetic. It is cheap because it is manufactured here in Nigeria, hence it is very easy to get the original one. The synthetic oils you see in the market are much more expensive because they are imported & you may also be buying a fake product. A genuine Mobil 1 in the US is almost two times cheaper than what it sells for down here. Don't let any half-baked mechanic tell you nonsense, most of them just repeat the falsehoods they have been told without proper research and knowledge.
With that much sludge I’d be tempted to first if all scoop it out and then hit it with brake cleaner. Definitely clean up the valve cover before putting it back on. Then maybe pour a bunch of diesel through there. Then I’d drain out the old oil and put a new filter. I’d put new cheap oil with the valve cover off and pour it all over the top end. I’d turn the engine over by hand a number of times to get the oil into the bearing surfaces. Drain and put new cheap oil. Turn over by hand again. Then I’d do the engine flush. Really though I’d just stay away from that engjne unless they’re selling the car for scrap price.
The sludge isn't too bad, but I will advice him to change the camshaft solenoid valve filter or at least clean it with petrol. Toyota's 1zz-fe engine is a beast, but has always had sludge buildup issues.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I heard it's not advised in a VVT or VTEC? engine like a 2010 Honda Accord 2.4 L 4cyl b/c the loose floating sludge can clog the really small openings in the screen?...Any truth to this?..thanks
you will also destroy the catalytic converter or significantly reduce its life if using diesel oil in a a gasoline/petrol engine. The additives in diesel oil are not friendly to gas/petrol catalysts.
Given the previous lack of oil changes...... It isn't surprising that the owner didn't want to pay for the flush to be done in the most effective way.......
Never used engine flush, my valve cover and camshafts are never been in this shape and with this slime... Maybe because I change oil regularly never do more than 7k miles between changes. On what oil or how often you need to change oil to get this stage of shit in engine... My god.
Very fair points. However, a number of things can come together and make you have sludge even in a 5000 mile oil change schedule. For this car it was an oil leak plus a clogged PCV valve. Also note that some engines are prone to sludge due to poor design. See www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/car-parts-and-accessories/engine-sludge/index.htm
if for any reason you think an engine needs an engine flush. it's alrready too late. you shouldnt flush it. you take the rocker cover off and sump pan of and manually clean it yourself - put the sttuff back in, put good new oil amnd drive it for 3-4000 miles. then repeat the step. Why? modern engines have tiny nozzles and tubes throughout the engine, have pickup tubes with mesh on one end. those tubes can get clogged if you use an engine flush and loosen clumps of sludge from whereever theyve been hiding in the engine.
Sieht danach immer noch bescheiden aus. 😢 Wie kann man einen Motor aber auch nur so vergammeln lassen?! Ich würde 2 bis 3 Ölwechsel hinereinander mit Billigöl machen und jeweils dazwischen ein paar Hundert km fahren, am Anfang weniger, nachher mehr. Vor dem Ölwechsel jeweils 500 ml Diesel in den Motor, 10 Minuten warmlaufen lassen, dann Öl ablassen. Kerosin geht auch, ist günstiger als so manche Oilflush-Produkte. Zum Schluss gutes Markenöl einfüllen und spätestens alle 12...15 Tausend km wechseln.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I think this goes for anything . Higher operating temperature, Direct injection, diesel , turbo, stop start, city driving. It all takes a toll on an engines internals. Look after the engine and it will look after your hip pocket.
That's a good observation, though my sane mind won't risk it. I know a friend who has sludge in his 2002 Toyota Camry V6. He keeps up with oil changes both before and after noticing the sludge. No more than 5k mikes. He uses semi-sythetic 5w-30 both prior and after the sludge, yet it has remained through multiple oil changes. In fact there's now some metallic noise coming from the motor. I suspect a spun bearing. He's just decided to ride it to the death while looking for a new car. All this is just to say that, except it's minimal sludge, I think a cleaner is necessary in my opinion. Something like my friends car isn't also a good candidate for a cleaner because the sludge may be what's holding that motor together if you know what I mean.
I wish manufacturers quit telling people you can go like 8-10k miles without changing synthetic oil for example I drive a new ford truck on the ford pass app it says I can drive 8500 miles on this synthetic oil before I have to change it ya nope not falling for that I have a twin turbo engine which requires clean fresh oil all the time to run properly
That was a very bad idea to use high mileage oil because this type of oil has low levels of detergents, which will help create sludge. And Mobil 2000... Please use at least API SN oils....
Wow. Never tried that. The delicate balance is to clean it without thinning the oil too much and cause engine wear. I don't know how much protection cooking oil would give.
