Fantastic video. I have a a safety tip. Don't ever wear a ring or jewellery when working on power electronics. If your ring ever shorts out a circuit you could lose your finger. When you step up to higher voltages you should consider using electrical insulated gloves. Keep up the great work.
Hello! I'm going to buy a Tesla motor off of a selling and I wanna do a quick test just to make sure the motor spins, can I hook up two 13 volt batteries in series straight to the motor?
So Many Questions! You didnt explain why I need the open inverter board. Is this only to perform this low voltage test? ie: If I was willing to throw the full 400V at it then I can hook everything up as you did and just test it that way? You didnt show the settings for the board? Links would be helpful to the products you used. I did manage to find the MS3 center harness but Im worried if I link it here my comment will get flagged and be stuck in spam Where did you find the connection diagram for everything to hook up to that inverter board? It seems like with the setup you have here if we added more batteries we would essentially have a running/driving car (if it was mounted in a car), so we could skip all the other computer boards, tablets, and expensive stuff and stick with a bare bones setup like this if we wanted? Do you have the ability to setup dynamic braking and such with this setup, or do you need to get a canbus controller to program those functions? Ill be doing my 66 Chev C10 Tesla conversion on my channel soon. Just getting the parts I need to make this all happen
The open inverter board allows you to communicate with the tesla inverter. All his controls (throttle, forward/reverse direction, start button) are effectively communicating with the open inverter board, which is then communicating with the tesla inverter. Without the open inverter board (using the original factory tesla board) you would need to somehow send it the right combination of special Tesla canbus commands.
I have a Tesla LDU that I'm wanting to bench test but not sure of which parameters need to be changed. Wondering if you could give me the parameters you changed in order to bench test your motor.
What kind of encoder is on this motor? Do you have the ability to align the encoder to the rotor in the case of opening the motor and reassembling? Any software available or necessary to do that?
Yeah it's bigger batteries and high voltage; 24V will make a motor spin but it won't be nearly enough torque to push a car forward at any speed. The full setup will be 250-350V
If I understood you're question the answer is yes, I'm not talking for personal experience but I've been warching a yt channel called 'Electric classic cars', he does what you're asking in LR defender to have 4wheel drive, check some of his video, especially the one where he talks about a ready to go kit for defenders where he shows the positioning with also the shafts
@@whysoserious.5723 That is incorrect, it's 1400A max - and that's for the highest tier "luidicrous" version. The regular sport can take 1150A max and the base model of large drive unit is just 900A max.
