The 3D Printing Course is Complete. I will link it here - it's 100% free (you can use the link, sign up, take the course, cancel membership, you wont get charged). With this link you also have access to my courses on using Fusion 360 (to learn how to design for 3D Printing) and How to Set Up and Etsy Shop (in case you want to sell 3D Prints), again, all free. skl.sh/3IBseeE
I was recently offered a new job within my facility as a 3D printer operator. I was going into this with almost zero knowledge. Thank you for this, it gives me a slight foothold on the promotion ❤️
Would love to see you make a show on how to calibrate a printer for accuracy, i.e filament flow, driver steps etc. Having problems with holes lining up and parts fitting together as well as consistancy. I find your shows really clear and easy to understand good job👍😎🇬🇧👏
Lots of videos of that on RU-vid. But even after you do that… these things are not a cnc machine. It’s a hot glue gun on a plasma table with a Z axis… it will never be machine perfect.
I live in Yazd,IRAN🇮🇷 and it is basically a dry desert. I have been printing with ABS and PLA for like 3 or 4 years now since first time I got interested in 3D printing, I have never used any kind of filament dryer and I never had major problems caused by wet filament like too much stringing. Pros of living in a dry desert city ✌😎
@1:30 lol I wish you said this before saying you should shift your X,Y and Z parts. Luckily mine hasn't even been plugged in yet, so I hope I didn't fuck it.
I'm gonna be the person that says you don't need adhesive. I spend 20 bucks on a marked up glue stick and then bought a pei sheet and have never needed it since lol
I wish I would of found this video before starting my test print >< Thanks so much for taking the time to upload this video. It's been extremely informative and helpful. I've been using a resin printing for 6+ months but FDM feels a bit more complicated and intimidating in comparison...so far. As you said, this should all get easier in time hopefully.
About PLA on car parts, I'm using PLA a whole time I'm using 3D printer, some cosmetics on car/in car in black or green, in summer on 40°C so I can say these materials on/in car are around 60°C and no melting, still as new, except the color, color is shading away to more white, so from neon green I have white to green-ish :D
Finding some problems with this video too. I've yet to find other filaments that aren't PLA cheaper than PLA. PLA is always the cheapest. Also, it's sandable alright.
I've often found myself stymied by 3D printing way too often. I started out quite a few years back with a simple Monoprice Maker Select V2, and I mostly had issues with corner adhesion. Every time I'd go to level the bed, I could never get it properly leveled either. When I tore the machine apart, I found that its carriage plate was a fairly thin piece of metal that was anything but level. The issues with that printer caused me to stop for a few years, but eventually, I decided that I'd put a bit more money into my next printer(s) to ensure that I got something a bit nicer. (In other words, hopefully with less issues.) Right now, I've got a Creality CR10S Pro V2 and an FLSUN Super Racer. With the Creality, I keep having issues with the left Z-axis side drooping (likely due to the extruder motor being on that side) causing difficulty in leveling the bed. I'm not entirely sure if that suggests that I need to just tighten the V-rollers a bit or if it just needs to be checked ever so often to ensure proper alignment between the two sides. ...or just convert to direct drive and drop the bowden! 😋 I also think it's disabling the heated bed at some point during printing, which is causing some lifting off the bed. The FLSUN is my newer printer, and I ran into a bit of bad luck there as the LCD's touch functionality refuses to work. Fortunately, I have a Raspberry Pi lying around, so I can just upgrade it to Klipper and ignore the malfunctioning hardware. Moral of the story? Spending more money won't guarantee a lack of issues!
Very, very informative video. I've got 3 FDM printers (use only the Creality 3 v2), and 1 Creality SLA printer (had it a year and I'm afraid to use it!!). Thank you for this video, subscribed.
Great guide, thanks for sharing. I am really interested in the in depth course! I ordered a Prusa i3 MK3S+ and i am in the process of learning all the basics and more.
Thanks for vid. Some observations though: PLA isnt affected by moisture, its been tested over and over in several channels. Like Makers Muse for instance. Vinyl however is absorbing water alot :) Bed Adhesive aint good to apply to all kinds of beds. For instance Creality Ender 3 that i have, it will ruin it to apply something like a gluestick or whatever. Much better just to clean it with a tissue with water or ethanol/isopropanol to remove fat :)
@@fl1289 that should work good. Remember to clean it well afterwards. And do note that if the filament isn't sticking it can be because of several causes. For instance 2 low temp for nozzle or heatbed, or misaligned bedlevel. Or even due to bad PLA which shrinks/warps a lot. And sometimes using a 1cm brim helps it stick also. Glue is only one tool in the toolbox :)
18:50 the Y & T example is okay but not okay, people have to use their brain and print the T upside-down lol. Ideally you want to avoid as much support as possible but dont cut cheap when its clearly needed. Turn your T into ꓕ and save money
All due respect Mr. Hartley but you speak like you’re a professor Just checking off boxes of what information you have to get across to your ignorant students. Like you’ve done it so many times and it is just totally boring to you. Sorry, but this is what I think.
Can you recommend a good 3d printer for beginners who are looking to exclusively use PET FILAMENT? (that means the nozzle needs to get up to 270°C). No I'm not talking about PETG
I hate PETG. It is smeary, blobby and ugly everytime when I try to print it. And strings everywhere. I have no idea about the settings at all and which I have to manipulate for better results. Obviously Im using a prusa mini with the printing profile for it. Totally beginner : D PLA comes out fine, but now my spool is empty and Im left with my second spool which is PETG. X D
Lots of good information, but a bit lazy near the end: you could have actually shown the leveling process instead of just describing it 🙂 Actually, I think lots of the information could have been shown practically instead of just explained. Nevertheless thank you for the information.
this video is great and has a ton of information in it! good job bro! not to be a debby down but there are a few over-extruded lines on your model, and in the thumbnail (over the doorway, on the top right.) but all in all its a damn good benchy!
haha I was waiting for someone to point that out ! It's definitely not perfect :p It was just standard profile and with the timelapse it's pretty much never perfect. Thanks Technivorous !
Bed leveling is aligning the x and y plane with your bed. It has nothing to do with actual bubble level. Dont worry about making your bed level if the table its on has a slight slope. The key is that the nozzel is the same distance above the bed as it moves from corner to corner and everywhere in between. Remember your first layer is the most important and it is super thin. So the bed needs to be in plane, or the same distance to the nozzle at all points. Usually within .02mm
@@deedend no they don’t, if you have a 0.2mm layer being put on a bed that’s leveled to a tolerance of +-0.2mm then you will have areas where it’s floating and areas where you have zero extrusion as you’re touching the bed with the nozzle.
Talk talk talk no more talk all the same talk talk talk show us how to download and what files to use all everyone does is talk talk talk and never showing how to really do anything but put the stupid printer together I can do that easy enough without reading the manual. How about a step by step for those who can't use a computer that well. Would be nice instead of talk talk talk All the same. Stop talking and have a computer in front of you so we can all follow So we who are not computer smart can pause and follow you.
I second this. Background muzak is not appropriate for instructional videos. We want to concentrate fully on the information, without being distracted.
I have a ender 3 pro with a mirror bed. If I use any type of glue stick my prints WON'T STICK! I even spent $20 for this stuff called Nano Adhesive and it DON'T work. But if I just clean my bed with soap and water then pass a alcohol pad on it then it sticks fine. So NO!! Glue sticks don't always work
Dude what is the best pla you recommend, I have been trying a few brand so are okay and some suck. I also am having some under extruding only in some areas, and the wall in that area is pretty much missing, and I have been testing to fix this but nothing has worked.
Hey! I'd like to do some small scale manufacturing out of my home of a product. What 3D printer would you recommend for printing with regular and flexible filament for under $2,000? Thanks for your time!
Great to see you post in 2022! This is really helpful for people who want to get started. Question tho: I've been printing a rocket it has a cylinder shape, but it's been leaning towards one side when I stack the 2 cylinder parts together, do you know what could be the causes for leaning prints? do I have to reassemble my printer I may have made a mistake while assembling? ender 3v2 printer
Hopefully will be posting much more in 2022 ! Could be a few things ! Definitely make sure there is no lifting off the bed during the print, adhesive is always good. If the cylinder is hollow there might not be a lot of surface area on the print bed, adding a 5 - 10 mm brim might help. It likely isnt the machine axis. To check. Take a ruler and measure the distance between the X axis at the top and bottom of the machine and see if they are significantly different. Sometimes over-tightening of screws can throw this off, but I dont think that would be the case for this instance.
I got a second printer a CR10 S5 and use simplified 3D, they don't list this printer so I used the software for the S4 which is a smaller build area so I set it to the S5 area, my question is can this confuse the printer or the slicer software because everything I tried the model printing infill is soft and outer layer isn't sticking to the infill. The test model on the SD card printed perfect, I don't know what I'm missing!!!
I am using Anycubic M3 max for Chem Printing. I am having issues with areas of the Object Files in Chitubox coming over from Blender geting walls, and or areas that are not on the model, but for some reason the slicer is adding them in there.
I have an Ender 3. I am having difficulty with leveling. The stepper motor (Y) behind the table is tilted in a counterclockwise direction. This causes the table to hit the stepper motor. I'm looking for a way to adjust the stepper motor.
Have you done printing on PC? I am trying to make functional parts for an industrial machine using PETG or PC depending on which is better. I tried PLA and ABS, both the finish and strength was lacking. I believe PETG is good for functional parts...any tips? We are using Prusa i3 Mk3 S+
Im surprised you say PETG and ABS is cheap whereas PLA isnt. In the UK its very much the opposite. PLA is almost always cheaper than the other 2, even the fancy silk rainbow types are cheaper than basic ABS. Even PVB is cheaper than ABS for the most part.
So. I just bought a Elegoo Neptune 3 FDM printer. I should say, I have been doing SLA (resin) printing for over a year now and have they down pretty well. When I went to this new printer I thoguht I could just use the same software and files would be just like the resin slicing software... well, it isn't. so a total noob question... does the FDM printer only require the GCODE file to print or does it need the SLA as well? I have several files that I regularly print on my Elegoo Saturn that I want to try on the Neptune but they are completely different formats (.ctb) so i guess I have to go back to the STL file and recreate them for the GCODE file... or is there a direct way to convert them?
What graphicd card is good enough for 3d modeling and sculpting models for 3d printing in 2022? Not rendering just be able to work with out lag problems.
1:35 The amount of current you could generate from simply moving the bed is negligible, and most motherboards have protection in place for reverse current. Stop inducing fear where it doesn't exist.
I don't have a filament dryer, but I have an old food saver laying around, so if I won't be using a spool for longer than a day or two I'll vacuum seal it with the desiccant it came with.
What graphicd card is good enough for 3d modeling and sculpting models for 3d printing in 2022? Not rendering just be able to work with out lag problems
I see a Tesla battery charger on your wall. Charging a battery in your house can set your house on fire that cannot even be put out, it just keeps reigniting. Very dangerous
If you have not 3d printed before would it be a idea to practice on pla before trying to use abs, also if there's no programming for what you want how do you go about creating your design for slicing? Would abs be better for slicing in mid air as it can be cleaned up?
Hi there, just recently bought an ender 3 neo, however on cura, there is no ender 3 neo standard settings, how important is it or can I just use the ender 3 standard settings?
Great video! I love that it's straight and to the point without any filler. I just ordered a Prusa Mini last night so now it's time to study up and figure out how to use it! :)
I am a teenager and started a 3d design class a few months ago. I have been really loving it and wanted to know where to start and what printer buy if i want to print at home
im a n00b and want to print dive watch bezels for vintage watches. these will need a small ridge on the inside to clip onto the watch case and will need indented numerals and markings. what material would you recommend for a flat finish and would you print them flat, at an angle or vertically for the best result?
Why would having the power on effect the electricity generated from the stepper motor being moved? it still sends the electricity? Maybe I'm wrong but there has got to be diodes protecting the other components? idk
Loving these vids! We have a Prusa on order and are ready to start into the world of 3d printing. I checked out Fusion 360 and it has a fairly high overhead just to get started. Is there something else you recommend? I'm looking at Blender, but it seems to be a bit overkill for what we're trying to achieve... Unless I make a movie. Lol!
@@AustenHartley Thanks for the info! I got in touch with Autodesk and they referred me to the free Hobby version. Any idea when the course will start up?
I am in about the same place as you are, also have a Prusa on order. On the recommendation of a friend, I have been using Alibre Atom3d for a few days now. 20 odd years ago I was drawing some stuff in 2d Autocad; sometimes that helps me, sometimes I think it holds me back since I think I know how to do something but the 3d software wants me to do it differently from how I remember. Getting it figured out and I will have some of my own design parts to print by the time the Prusa finally arrives. Alibre costs more than free personal use Fusion360 but once you buy it, it's yours and no cloud storage, so you don't have to worry about Autodesk changing their terms or now having to buy a subscription for the software you spent a bunch of time learning if you decide to turn pro. Although Alibre did manage to piss me off right away; morning after I registered, their customer support called me out of the blue to see how it was going, with no regard for time zones... Living in Alaska and working a swing shift, I had a hard time remaining semi-civil at being woken up early.
