View a beginner's guide for how to easily install a door in minutes. Fast and easy Instructional door installation. www.homedepot.com/p/Express-P... Buy $5
Great product! would recommend! Great tutorial helped me do 9 doors super fast. The brackets cost me $50 at Lowe's for 9 doors vs $5 for wooden shims but well worth it.
Nice video. There are a lot of videos available for this hanging system. You addressed the floor being level a little late in the video. This is extremely important.
I am installing on existing floor. The hinge side for some reason sits lower than the door open side so door handle notch not lining up perfectly. Going to shim up door hinge side till top is level. This should line up door handle to hole in trim. Bottom-line, make sure top is level when first installing to see if one side need shimming up under door frame. hope you follow.
Contact benjefferson53@gmail.com and +1 623 295 9776 on wattapp he use to work for YKK AP America inc. Product line Vinyl windows and sliding patio doors; metal curtain wall, storefronts and entrances; sun control products including sunshades, grilles and louvres; glass window walls, architectural windows and balcony doors. repairs , installation and sales of quality doors
What if you have a door which you want to keep, and need to replace a damaged frame? Is it easier to put the door into the frame first, or put in the frame, then put the door in?
Rely on just those flimsy brackets to support a door frame? No. I like the idea of setting the door frame using the brackets but it's not done until the jamb is secured to the frame using shims and/or screws/nails through the jamb into the frame front and back. Don't rely on MDF door casing to secure the jamb. The mitered joint will never stay together.
I normally install all doors, base and casing before the drywall is completed. I've actually done it before the framing is in place so other workers don't have to work around me. Standard practice is best.
What happens when the walls are not plumb??? Specially the hinge side?? How do you adjust that?? We definitely don't want a door that closes or opens up by itself right??
Y'all wish me luck I am trash at fixings things but with the kid on the way I figured fuck it I might as well get ahead of the curve and save some mula.
Leave extra time, replace everything if you're already in there (toilet running? Replace water line, flap at the bottom and the mechanism. Don't try to save cheap parts if they're clearly not working. If anyone has to go to the bathroom, might as well do that before you shut the water off. Because once you do that and pull the water line, whatever's in the tank will be on the floor. Also, often worth the monely to have a licensed worker show you how. They often have faster ways. Worst one I tried so far is the kitchen faucet. Trying to crank it on when you can't get to it (it's behind the sink), made my back hurt 3 days. Never fool with old stuff if you don't know what it is. Lead is a big one. Especially since you have kids around. Won't hurt adults over 25 as much. Houses built before 1978 in US are assumed to have lead in paint. You'll find asbestos in very old linoleum flooring. Don't mess with it until you know what it is. Get it tested. And don't assume if it doesn't have it, it's safe to breathe. It's not. Keep it damp (keeps dust down; also NEVER FORGET--ALL dust is flammable! Keep it away from sparks and flame, even pilot lights for stove/furnace and water heater. You can shut those off.) and use full respirator and haz mat suit so you don't track it all over, whatever it is. Cement/mortar is full of glass bits. Mix it outside, gently, and don't bring clothing into the house (tyvek suit/respirator again) or buy premix. Keep lid shut when you have some out. It'll crack if it's dry and you can't just re-wet it. Library has the old Time Life home repair books, too. Some things might have changed (building codes) but library should have newer editions. You can request and have it sent to any branch. Never take advice from people who don't have a license. Lots of licensed guys like side jobs for cash. Just get a receipt for taxes. And you meant moolah/moola, btw.
In many remodels the drywall has already been panted and textured, sometimes several times over. This increases the thickness of the jam opening. Therefore, when flushed to the rock on one side, the other side will be shy of the rock. With shims I can split the difference, but with these I would not be able to do that. Make sense? How do you solve this when using these in a similar remodel?
Rich Williams no problem with these at 3:00 into the video you can see the averaging of corners out for out of plane walls. The same technique works if you need to shift the entire frame into or out of the wall to average the jamb in the wall. Instead of just doing 2 or so corners you will be doing all bracket locations.
One of the problems of using this method is the bottom left side of the door. The jamb is warped, and the installer didn't accommodate for it when he installed it. It would've been a good teaching point to show how to fix it while using this system. Granted, professional installers know this, but keeping the spacing on the jamb is tricky in any job. Good tool. I'm going to try it!
Pretty cool idea though I see a few problems... if the frame (rough opening) is out of square or as mentioned in the video, needs to be moved, shimming is needed to hold door in its correct position. Also, the new jam can move or tip out of position with the weight of the door until casing attached... and you're relying on the casting to hold it together... which mostly these days is mdf material... not the most stable stuff. I can see this as a quick install tool but not a good quality install... though combined with shims, I do agree it looks like a quicker way to do the job... I'll give it a try on the next job! 😎🚪🔨📐🪚🪛
So if the door is installed after drywall, per this video the door jamb isnt secured to any stud or header? How long were the screws the went into the drywall, 1.5"?
Which should be more than enough, especially after trim is nailed both into the jamb and the wall... They used to "case hang" doors using only the trim nails
scott- o if you use a long hinge screw the power of the screw can “suck” the jamb/frame into the wall if you tighten to much. Throwing a shim behind there first simply stops this from happening.
On hollow-core doors, nothing else is needed. On heavy/Solid-core doors we recommend removing the center screw from each hinge and replacing with a longer screw that will go through the hinge, through the bracket's clearance hole, and into the wall. This is a common practice that most builders will do on any door install wether hollow or solid core. (its recommended you put a shim behind the hinge when you do this, to keep the jamb/frame from getting sucked into the wall by the screws). Remember all the hard work of getting the door perfect will already be done by the brackets, you are simply taking 1 extra minute to reinforce your install.
Hi, thank you for good teaching, With your permission, I would like to upload your video with Korean subtitle at my channel. I am sure I will mention your channel for original footage.
MY comments for the clip manufacturer. the R.O. has to be perfect for the clips to work. The side to side adjustment is'nt enough. And the video does not show a close up of the reveal of casing. Its hard to believe there is no gap from the clip and the screw. Pushing the trim out away from the jamb.
It’s a nice product, but for remodeling jobs I wouldn’t suggest it to someone that dosent know how to hang doors. There’s a lot more to it and all openings are different.
Hi Ken, we have 1000s of reviews (can be seen on homedepot.com) from DIYs as well as pro builders. We have found a person of nearly any skill can properly install a door with this system. Thanks for posting.
Quick Door Hanger (Official Channel) ok best to you. It certainly won’t affect my business. It’s nice tool, but door installation is far more than this.
Split-jamb doors are only available in roughly 30% of the country, mostly east coast (and most builders/homeowners don't prefer them because they have cheap looking trim/casing). For all the rest, Flat-Jambs (such as the example in this video) are the only types of doors available.
LOL, Its a fake wall built in a studio for demonstration purposes, we felt actually mudding was a little overkill. But thank you for pointing it out, that could be confusing for some DIYs.
That exact issue can be seen at 2:43 seconds into the video. You basically have the ability to average corners in/out of the wall as needed to accomodate Out-of-Plane. Thanks for your question.
The only issue i see is your doors will bind if you dont shim behind hinges and give space and a reveal. you want an even reveal around all three sides. Other than that this looks like a great product i will have to try and see for myself
If you case the door out, then use that as your installation guide, you would very often get a door that swings shut/open on its own because your relying on the wall being perfectly plumb, which is very often not the case. With this you can see you get the door perfect, then adjust for bad walls (can be seen at 2:43 into the video). This gets your door absolutely perfect, then you can finish with the trimming. Hope this answered your question. Thanks
I work at Lowe's. It is full of Republicans and Democrats workers and customers. They just want your $$$ and care less about a person's political choices.
@@rickvaughn9919 Lowe's new CEO came from HD. All major corporations only care about the bottom line. Spend your money at local mom and pop stores where they know YOU not your bank account.
