Went and bought a couple today after several reviews. Having said that , you review was excellent, and thankyou for your good work . I replaced my BerhingerB300's. They sound great. Thanks .
I have both models of the 12 inch version, and though I do like the handles and the stackability of the 2 series, The newer 1 series(112) cabinet is ported better and gives a more complete spectrum of range, using analysis provided by full range digital frequency meters inside a special acoustically neutral room. And My eras agree as well. The 2 )older) series has a certain point where it just cannot be flattened out any more. That's my 2 cents
Thanks. This is a great straight forward review. I am surprised with the overall size difference between the 212 and 210. Probably because of the bigger tweeter and probably a more powerful poweramp in the 212. Curious to find out what the Link connection actually does? Can you hook up a passive speaker to the Link connection to drive a second speaker?
Well, for what it's worth, I ended up buying a pair of the 112Ds to use with a Behringer X2442, and it has been a GREAT decision. The 112s are easy for this 70 year old body to get up onto the stands, and for my gigs with a 10 piece mini big band and a 20 piece big band, they give us plenty of power for almost every situation. The only thing that needs more is large outdoor venues, and the producers usually provide the sound for that. All in all, the combination of 112s and X2442 has been one of the best gear investments I've ever made.
Finally... a reasonable, common-sense, real world description of these speakers. The only question left for me is how easy are the various sizes and models to handle and lift onto stands. Thanks!
They have a solid and stable grip when grabbing the handles, so I guess that would come down to the weight of them for some people. I pop the 112s on and off standard tri-pod stands with ease and don't have anything negative to say in that regard. I tested out the B115D model and decided against it. It was just too big and the sound was not as tight as the 112, a bit muddy, so it didn't make sense for my uses. An example of use: I would say to use four 112s instead of two 115s. You get all the crisp/clear highs and plenty of surface area for pushing air, and it will be tight bass. If you need more bass, use dedicated subs. The 112/212 models are a sweet spot in general, hard to beat the value. Hope that gives you an idea at least. : )
Great information - thanks. I guess I'm just gonna have to go to a store and pick up both of them and lift them up to speaker height to see if I want to go with the 112/212 vs the 10". We mostly do jazz and need a PA to mic horns and jazz vocals in smaller venues. We only occasionally do larger venues or outdoor jazz concerts, which would probably need the extra power and throw of the 12" models. So hands-on judgement will probably be required. Thanks again.
The 210s are no slouch if you need lighter weight/smaller. But they were most definitely not as powerful for sound/energy as the 112/212, as you would expect. I will tell you that I tested them extensively with different types of music, including classical and modern christian music, which is heavily reliant on vocals morese than pop music. I personally love rock/metal/techno more, so I tested that as wel for my uses, lol. I was doing some of the testing for my mom, who plays organ/piano and runs the choir at her church, so it was important to be able to sound clear and project for that type of music. She also wanted it to sound good for just using a mic for talking or singing directly into it, and it will be moved around alot. So that should give you an idea of my considerations for sound/use. : )
Well either way, they're a great value. I'm going to visit a nearby Sam Ash later next week and make a decision. Thanks again for all your input. Cheers!!
As a cheaper speaker the B112 is what I went with for my pyrotechnics stuff. I got the blue tooth version tho. I paired it with. Behringer sub. Right and left pair.
For what it's worth, the B210D is listed as 200W and the B212 is listed as 550W. Woofer sizes aside, that may explain why the B212 sounded louder before distortion.
For the money and value, it's definitely good for a practice studio. It's also good for a gig depending on the size. It's just a good value in general. "Value" is the key word. There are certainly much higher quality systems out there. And a lot worse quality as well. It's all about how much money you pay for what you're getting. You will likely pay multiple times more money for a fraction of performance improvement. If you really need that fractional performance improvement, then that's a decision each person has to make for their application. : )
Connecting 8 of these together should work fine, though each speaker in the chain will of course add more interference. As for distance, this really depends on the quality of cables and the amount of interference in the lines. High quality cables kept away from power cables can go over 100m.
HELLO SCOTT! I noticed that one of my EUROLIVE Powered speakers only had sound coming out of the Woofer so I ordered and installed a new Tweeter Diaphragm but when I powered the unit up it's squealed!!! I took it back apart double checked all the wiring everything is in the correct place! Tweeter is mounted in the correct position! There's no smell or anything burning from the Amplifier section! The Woofer works fine! Can you tell me what that could possibly be wrong!
Without being able to troubleshoot in person, I would say to look at the old tweeter and verify that the impedance is the same with your new replacement tweeter. The DSP in the system was designed for each of the drivers to be a specific impedance in the circuit. If your impedance is matching properly on the tweeter, and you're positive that the tweeter is functioning properly (Don't assume that because the tweeter is new that it is running perfectly, try to verify on another system maybe?), then the issue may be with the DSP or built-in amplifier? I know it's probably obvious, but the only way to determine bad components is to verify which ones you KNOW are working to try to isolate the bad ones. If you have two of the same systems, you could try to start swapping components between them to figure out which one is not working properly?
Everybody in that sized venue should hear perfectly fine. It's all about projection distance, though. The best way to find out for yourself is to play music on the speaker that is similar to what you would be playing, and walk around to the edges of the venue size at which you might be playing. That way you can hear what the audience would be hearing. That's really the only way to know for sure. The acoustics of the room or being outside plays a major part in how speakers sound.
Hi, could I know the real power differenze, in hearing, between b112d and b212d? The specs talk about 1000w peak Vs 550w peak, and it should mean 500w Rms Vs 280w Rms.. IS it True? Or IS different?
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Paul Djete It will definitely be enough to project loudness and clarity and mid range bass to 30 people inside a house. Whether it's enough bass or not really depends on how much bass you want, lol. You would have to experiment with just the one speaker and see what you think I guess. Then add a sub if you need it?
@@smonsterj thanks for fast reply. I will buy one in a week hopefully it will be enough for my needs, I supose it doesnt have rich deep bass, but just wanna make sure it doesnt lack in upper/mid range bass department I wanna feel punch coming out of it.
@@pauldjete7108 Plenty of punch coming out of the 12 inch Behringers. It's quite sufficient unless you are into Hip-Hop or EDM and need more bass. You can def feel them
Hi. I am going to buy B112D , i think they have 600W rms, am i right? The thing is how much stuff to put Through preserving pristine sound and power for the vocals, wich is the main reason for the purchase. I think of Vocals, bass, and bass drum For a band where we have two guitars, bass, drums and two vocals, i will only pass through speakers vocals and bass drum. Any advise? please!
Learned people say to put the entire band through the PA, and balance everything at the mixer. Bass amp and guitar amp are essentially monitors for their players. That is what EVERYBODY says, I've never really done live sound, but I have played a bit, and it has been tricky monitoring. But if you really are providing the PA for a band, I think you will need a lot of power for your speakers, AND a sub or two to cover the bass and kick (and low end in everything else, like guitar, synth/keys, voice). If you are playing venues, they should have a sound system, so you shouldn't really need a PA at all. But if you're throwing your own parties and your band is playing, you will have to invest a bit more than you think. Think: 1. Mixer 2. fx like compression and eq at a minimum for most or all active channels, check ACP-88 (mixer likely has eq, but low end mixers suck for eq, have to buy up market $$$, but can do used, just check every function on every channel) 3. Speakers 4. Subs 5. Rigging - how you're going to place your subs and speakers where you want/need them. 6. Cabling, lots and lots of cabling. It is heavy and expensive. 7. POWER - where is the juice coming from, how is it being distributed to the mix, fx, amps, speakers, subs. 8. Prolly gonna need lighting too, and power, rigging, wiring and control for them too. Better to get better at music and then have venues host your band, unless you're on a special kind of mission. All the best!
@@angelcastellanosmartinez2412 Just played our first gig with this new band project we're doing. At soundcheck tried to just do voice in pa, and live percussion just live, guitar through 120w 4x12, bass through 500w head and 4x10, and listening to that, definitely needed bass and guitar in the pa, just a little to smooth out and balance the mix. The guitar and bass were too much point sources of sound and did not blend in at all with the stereo pa voice. So we di'ed out of the bass and guitar head (nice feature on a guitar head) and mixed them in with the voice. We were not blasting them at all, but it helped to smooth the mix out! So, the learned people really are right, you need to run everything into the pa!
DJ Jon yep, that's one of the nice features of these speakers. Each single speaker has a 2-channel mixer so you can put a stereo signal into ONE speaker and it will mix it down into a single waveform output. If you tried to do that with a reverse y-splitter cable (without mixing/summing) then you would get constructive and deconstructive wave patterns and your output would sound weird. You can only use a reverse y-splitter cable if your L and R signals are exactly the same, which is not the case usually with stereo. The 112D allows you to control the gain on each Channel for one speaker. Obviously you can use two speakers and split L and R like normal as well.
JET studios - scott jaster my concern is I have a DJ Controller and have a L and R out put, xlr. If I only purchased one of 112d that has the 2 inputs, would it be ok to input those 2 xlr cables into the one speaker? Mainly cause I’m on a budget and might not be able to afford 2 at once. Thoughts? Please
DJ Jon yes, you can use just one speaker for that. Your L and R would both go into the single speaker, into the separate channels of the built-in mixer, nothing extra for you to buy, all you need is the speaker and power cable. Then you can control the gain on each Channel, like if you wanted L to be quieter than R for some reason. Or make them the same or whatever. On the 212D, there is no mixer so you could not do that. If you wanted to put separate L and R signals into the 212, you would need an external mixing or summing device before running a single line into the speaker. You will be good to go with a single 112 for now, with no signal degradation, and you can get another one later if you wanted to get more sound.
Banana- I'm assuming you are asking how to play your ipod through a SINGLE B112D. That depends on the signal you inject into the speaker. There are a few ways to do this, but the easiest way that will not cause signal interference is to use both inputs on the speaker, and split your audio signal from your source device. If your source device (your phone or ipod or whatever) is stereo, and you try to combine them into a single output, you will likely produce issues as the left and right tracks interfere with eachother, so you must use a summing device, not a splitter in reverse like many people try to do. You can ONLY use a splitter the way it's intended, which is to separate the left and right stereo tracks into two outputs, or if you have mono signal, then the splitter will simply have the same mono signal on both outputs. In that regard, you need to use a summing device (or a mixer) if you want to send a stereo signal into ONE speaker. The B112D is perfect for this because it has a mixer built into the back of it. For the B112D, all you need is a TRS adapter that splits a single standard headphone cable plug (3.5mm or 1/8"). Here are a couple links if you want an example of this: www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1501930462&sr=8-12&keywords=trs+to+3.5mm+adapter or www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMP-434-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B0010D0HO0/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1501931026&sr=8-26&keywords=trs+to+3.5mm+adapter You can also use these adapters to split your left and right signals out into TWO speakers, meaning you would run the left TRS into one speaker, and the right TRS into the other, which would be mono signals to each speaker. I hope that makes and helps a bit.
Just wondering JET Studios, since i live in australia, would something like this work? www.storedj.com.au/hosa-stp-201-1-4-trs-to-dual-1-4-ts-insert-cable-1m And yes ill be only using one speaker. Thanks mate :) Subbed
Banana, that cable will allow you to split your signal, but you still need a way to adapt your iPod's output to the single 1/4" plug on that cable. If you want a single cable that does the trick, it would be exactly like the one you just showed, but the end that goes in your iPod needs to be 1/8" or 3.5 mm.
Jeffrey Roxas Those wattage values are very subjective. I did not open up the speaker and look at the amps inside, but there's no way it is 1000 Watts RMS, lol. Those numbers are normally just for selling and marketing. The wattage values for speakers depend on a number of factors, so industry normally uses a standard of around 1000Hz to minimize variables when giving specs, or other constants. I didn't see any such specific specifications from Behringer. So my opinions on them were based on comparing the audio with my ears and varying the type of signals I was putting through them.
Yes, it will definitely play any sound that you want to come out of it. But just like with all speakers, you don't want to have multiple dynamic signal inputs at the same time (such as acoustic guitar, distorted guitar, vocals, etc...), because then you can get constructive wave patterns which will push the speakers past clipping, which sounds bad in will also damage the voice coils. That's just a general rule, though. You either want to have one source going into each speaker or make sure multiple sources are properly mixed so they have their own frequency bands (bass and highs, etc...).
Should i buy an cable with two xlr to one 3.5mm jack or an cable with one xlr to one 3.5mm jack. I mean there in cables with two xlr to 3.5 mm jack and cables with only one xlr to 3.5mm stereo jack. What should to buy. Thanks
I bought the B210D instead of the B212D because size and weight was the concern for me. I do a lot of mobile dj gigs and I needed a portable, lightweight monitor for my dj rig that didn't take up much space. The 210 fits the bill perfectly!
Call me crazy but but I have been using the b112d . Thought I'd upgrade to qsc k12 2 I swear there beringer sounds better to me . I'm sure people will say I'm nuts
I like the b112d bass and treble knobs, easy to fine tune to the room. Not sure on the qsc k12 2 but many high end speakers have only specific EQ settings or contour buttons and I never like any. I am tweeter fussy and with my B108d I like the tweeter knob set just a tick less than 3/4.
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The Truth Speaker well, you'd have to define "better", lol. you could compare the weight of the magnets, the way the materials appear, the electrical efficiency... but the best way is simply how things sound. That's what it all comes down to in the end.
JET studios - scott jaster If you do a search for replacement woofer for the b 112 and b 212 it shows two different woofers the b 112 has a smaller magnet; peak watts 800 with no mention of continuous watts and b212 has a larger magnet rated at 1000 watts and it mentions 250 continuous watts. When you purchase speakers most times the company will not mention which woofers or tweeters they use. You are correct my friend it is simply how the music sounds with that said I do believe that with better quality tweeters and woofers the music would sound that much better. God bless
Based on review I bought a pair of B210d for use in a 24x20 garage/open rafters placed on shelves near wall. 23db peak at 125hz, very sharp drop below 100hz and 20db down at 70hz. Pathetic response curve.
That's not bad for 10in PA speakers. It's not a dedicated subwoofer, LOL. They are also considered "low-cost" PA speakers, so there are certainly going to be engineering trade-offs with components. Did you record a frequency response map that you can post here? That would be more data to help people.
That depends on how far you want to project. The increased surface area of the 15s will certainly allow further projection, but don’t expect a lot more bass out of them. They are full range drivers. You would still want to pair them with subs. what size venue are you thinking?
@@molotowop then that’s what you should get! : ) You don’t want to have buyer's remorse later. I would still recommend getting a dedicated sub to pair it with if you want that deep and thick bass response. If you’re looking for what I think is the best value on the market right now for crazy loud and powerful party music that you can crank to the max of the speakers without blowing things up, I would recommend spending a bit more money and going with the ElectroVoice ELX200-12P paired with either the ETX15SP or ETX18SP sub.
@@molotowop not sure I know exactly what you mean. Are you saying you have the power plugged in but no signal cable? And when you turn it on it makes some kind of popping or crackling noise? Or is it a single pop noise? Or do you have a signal cable plugged in but you don’t have any music turned on and it’s making a noise? The sound of a slight popping noise as it’s turned on is not abnormal, but if you have some kind of low hum noise that is steady, it could be a ground fault loop from your power source, or there could be some kind of signal getting onto your signal cable, or the speaker amplifier could be damaged. If both speakers are doing that, it’s likely not a damaged amplifier… Try unplugging the signal wire, and only having the power wire and see if it still makes that noise. If it does, then it could be a ground fault loop and you need to make sure you have cleaner power, or use a power filter before the speakers. If it only happens when you plug in the signal cable, then it could be your equipment? Just have to troubleshoot a bit it sounds like.
