THankyou! hope all been well yalls way! I knwo there are couple more hog vids i gotta catch up on yet on yalls end, things got busy for me and fell way behind on watching alot of channels unfortunately, but things finally started calming down past couple days at work to try and get caught up on some things lol. Take care and hope yall have good weekend!
I use a siml240 Snap-On socket to cage the brake chamber or brake can and a 15/16 ratcheting wrench and 5/16 Craftsman universal socket 1/4 driver works great for the slack adjuster
These dont have slack adjusters unlike regular air brake systems, but have used regular deep 3/4 inch socket in past to cage brakes then tighten rest of way with ratcheting wrench, but when you have 8 cans to do in a day that got old so picked up a sunex extra deep impact socket off amazon for 14 or so bucks, made things go way faster and easier lol. on regular air brake systems like our trailers and couple of diesels use you can usually get to can mounting bolts with impact, but way these line up on the calipers a 15/16 ratcheting wrench is too thick to get around nuts. thank you for watching and input on this vid!
Great video thanks brother. I like the explanation on the disc brakes. I have never had to do any yet but could in the future. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
THanks Scott! yeah like you said europe they have been in use quite bit longer, especially from what i have seen on Land Rover Tool Box Videos' channel (over in UK), even on their trailers. Glad I was able to put a little bit of info out there. Take care hope that engine build going good for yall!
Good info. I'm glad I never had to change mine on my busses and had brake prob with both buses. But no more if I get another big ride I want a motor home to live in or travel before this pain gets much worst. Which it's so bad right now. But good vidoe thanks for the showing how to change. God bless
Bearded Seabee82 yea glad I never had to work on them. As for Dr they don't care if I hurt or not. Guess I'll have to be like why they don't give enough pain meds and start buying my own. Sad I mean I understand there's a prob with liers not needing and wanting and getting. But when you have x-rays and papers showing your in pain they should help better. I swear I'm ready to try weed and if it helps start selling my stuff and becomeing a pot head. Lol. You have a good weekend God bless
If you are pulling any air can, release with the air and cage it before you do anything else. Not caging is sloppy and hazardous to your health. It wouldn't be as dangerous as replacing the parking brake diaphragm (old days I changed a lot of them) but you could get badly hurt and I'm allergic to pain. Good video, we just got our first disc brake truck and I'm looking for info Before I have to work on it. Thanks cbmech 74 MCB4
Well thats gonna be a hella lot of time using a ratcheting wrench to try and get in there to change cans since wont be able to get in there with impact due to how they face dividers, and better keep heavy hammer and longer prybar at hand doin it that way, just tryin to give ya heads up for alot simpler way to do it without straining shit out of your kidneys wrenchin all day
That's a different brake can than the ones I've done, the ones I touched had a 15/16 bolt on and if would just cage with the impact to do the brakes and mating bolts were 15/16 as well I would put a wrench and 4lb hammer to break them free, after that it was a 1 3/16 bolt for the calipers
All the air disc brakes by bendix we have take these k132352 chambers, both the 2015s as well as the 2020, and 2021 trucks, mounted with 5/8 nut (15/16 wrench size). I dont cage them going off as they usually help separate themselves from caliper unless spring is broken bad. The newer calipers instead of being soc-cap bolts like 2015/16 trucks we have use the large side mounting bolts (32mm socket).
You can swap out the piggy backs if you have them on hand, but we buy brake cans for these by pallet once every so often and just do all 4 drives when 1 goes bad unless roadside of course (company procedure) thanks for watching
I have a caliper brake on my truck. It doesn't have a shear pin, so the shop asked me to get a new one.that caliper made it like that. I'm not what I can do.
So when you showed the top view of the can you said to take air lines off an then take nuts off an it has a little pressure on it an will shoot off. Did you not cage the can before you took the can off. I work on car haulers so I don’t have the pleasure off working from above. I have to work under the truck. So would you suggest caging the can before pulling it? How much pressure does it have?
For the disc chambers that are accessibly from top, unles the spring inside are badly broken, after you smack them off the caliper, they have enough inerstia to skid to the duals on opposite side of axle across concrete. If my only option was from underneath then yes i would cage them mostly or access via taking wheels off (if it was necessary, i.e. can and caliper went bad and burnt up a.rotor or wheel seal etc). Good question, thanks.for watching
Cool video, thanks for explaining. I like the no cutting rods to length lol and not fighting with seized up pins. So are the auto adjusters? U ever have to adj them as pads get 1/2 way thru life? If they are auto adj, and they stop adj on they're own, can u rebuild the adjuster? Or u just throw on a new caliper? Thanks for the info, always like learning stuff before we end up with something that has that stuff
They auto adjust on their own, however the adjusting mechanism is chain drive in bendix, geared in meritor. If the adjuster fails, i.e. you shear 2 of those shear pins/sockets in row on same caliper trying to adjust bavk (wheel seal etc) bulletin says to replace caliper.... pricey i know. Most parts kits for them ive seen is more the boots for pistons etc to keep shit out. Meritor reps been goin around lately to dealerships to hold intro courses (wound up with a free lunch at my freightliner couple weeks ago lol) so keep eye out for that too
Caliper, rotor and brake pad set if done like in case of one displayed lookin at about 1200 give or take 100 i think (rotor is barely 200 i want to say, caliper is spendy part)
Bearded Seabee82 WOW! wonder what the life difference would be on a Vocational truck, rather then mostly hwy. That's pricey, I'll have to try to drive a truck with them loaded to see how much better they stop when they get heated up. Usually we get around 100-120k on the tandems and front axle on a tri axle dump truck. Tag axle we end up doing usually in middle of 2nd brake job, cause the shoes are usually falling apart
wow, yeah the heavy dumps and heavy haul trucks are definitely a different animal, especially when you have upwards 2 steer axles and multiple tag axles would be interesting to see. as far as OTR goes, air consumption for actuation is way lower, only have 2 small tanks (13"wx24"L) the next truck we are getting ready to do pads and drive tires on has about 700k miles (maybe bit more, hard to keep track some days when you have 70 of these cngs) on the original pads yet. The few diesels we have left we got about 800k miles on shoes and drums typically unless somethings happens (alot of open highway) Penske we saw alot less on a number of lease trucks (typically 250k-300k miles) on shoes, drums, and clutch. alot of it driver habits and what truck was used for.
Your "shear pin" is an indicator to diagnose a faulty auto adjuster of the SAF(knorr) disc brake caliper. Also prevents idiots from destroying a good one for that. A ratchet spanner is good when working fast. The only difference is that pre-adjusting i only do 2 ticks, not 3. But i dont think thats so relevant. I'll have to ask the next time i see a SAF engineer which is very rare.
Spanner? Are you in the UK? And yes, shear pin breaks off supposedly around 28ft lbs ish and if you break 2, replace caliper, as for SAF, well, we use bendix on our trucks. As for click preference we just do the 3 per bendix, but will take truck several goes around the lot to warm up brakes and run them in a little
@@BeardedSeabee82 The ratchet spanner is a tool. Im sure you Americans have such. Not UK, but Finland. i have never seen bendix calipers or such brakes ever. But haldex we do have.
@@2Str0k3 span and spanner are terms i have heard before but only from my freinds in uk, austrailia. Here it is just wrench or ratchet in US. All good though. Haldex brakes we have, but only on some of our trucks with drum brakes and trailers with drum brakes and their slack adjusters as far as our fleet goes. Meritor is another brand here in US as well with kind of similar set up for their disc brakes as bendix, but adjuster is much different set up on those however.
Im familiar with older air brake systems with drums. However the bus company i work for just got a brand new bus with disk air brakes and they look totally different from what I'm used too. My question is, do Bendix disk brakes have slack adjusters? Because call me an idiot, but for the life of me i can't seem to find them. The brake can just connects directly into the caliper and it appears as though there are no slack adjusters. Maybe they are there and i just can't see them? I only ask because part of the pre trip inspection involves checking all the brake components so it's important to know what all is there.
Not a problem. I cant remember if it was somrwhere in the part 1 vid of that or the part 2, where i showed the internal adjuster on the caliper. But on the disc brakes there is no slack adjuster. Basic components for inspection would be as follows: air lines and fittings to brake chamber, brake chamber visible condition, chamber mounting bolts nuts and mating surface to caliper, caliper, caliper looking mounted secure to axle. Also, a little hint on checking wheel seals on these, if it is relatively dry out or most of your rotors are dry and you have one rotor that looks like it is wet around the outer flanges the wheel seal could be going out. Any other questions just feel free to ask
You have to either pry them off or break them free by smacking them with a hammer. And since these are from disc brakes, not drum, they face towards center of truck, not towards back end of truck
Well shit once I watched this video and actually went and changed the cans on my truck out and pads I was kinda like why in the hell do we even still have drum brakes because I know these disc brakes do a whole heap bunch better. I got them in truck and trailer to haha
