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I recently got back into the hobby after taking a few years off, i'm glad I found your channel as you have a way of delivering information very directly, with no fluff or BS. Good work sir 👍
Excellent video! Clears up a lot of beginner misconceptions. I have moved tanks several times where I had to break it down and set it up again with a full load of fish on the other side and all I had to do was keep the filters wet in a tub or running in it if it took a long time. Never lost a fish. One thing to keep in mind though if you are going to do very big water changes is that your tap water's parameters should be more or less the same as the water in your tank.
Thank you so much. The 25 percent water changes just are not enough to get clear water, but I thought it would kill my fish to do a bigger change. This is such a relief because I just put up another tank. Now I cave clean waters.
I have a new tank with a cartridge filter. I put some Seachem Matrix in the filter, as well as in a flow baffle below it, so hopefully there should still be enough surface area for beneficial bacteria even when I replace the cartridge
Thank you bro! Glad you're finding the channel helpful! 😁💪 BTW, you should check out my new Aquarium Keeping APP designed for beginners! - aquabuildr.com
No problem. add your new filtration while keeping the old one running for about 2 weeks. The bacteria will grow on the new media. Then you can remove the old filter with the cartridges 😁
My pleasure bro! Glad you're finding the channel helpful. 😊 BTW, you should check out my new Aquarium Keeping APP designed for beginners! - aquabuildr.com
Always informative and straight to the point. This video came out just at the right time for me Kev. I made room to upgrade to a bigger tank. All my questions were answered. All of your tanks are looking great! Those Discus!😍 Another Great video! Enjoyed watching as i always do!❤😊
@@KaveManAquaticsThanks Kev! Nothing drastic. From 55 to a 75 gallon. My two Goldfish are healthy and want to give them alittle more room. It's been just about 8 year's I've had them! I wouldn't have gone that far without you Kev!❤
You are 100% correct. I use to use a cartridge filter. The tank water was actually clear and feeling like I'm doing everything right. I did a filter change and everything went downhill from there. I eventually switched to a sponge filter, balanced the tank and things picked back up from there. Took me a while to figure out that was the main problem.
Just FYI, there are nitrifying bacteria that live in the water column. I can’t remember the name of it from the paper I read but a specific species was actually found in comparable numbers in the water column as another was in the substrate. This was a wild environment mind you, and I couldn’t tell you what the flow rate was. As a general rule though surface area will always be the king
Those are heterotrophic bacteria which cause the milky cloudy bacterial bloom we all hate at the beginning of a new tank setup. - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-46fcHvoellI.html
Thanks Kev. I’m new to the aquarium community. Wish I would have started watching your videos before I started. But you’ve been a great help learning. And you were right I should’ve started bigger. 30 gallons is my 1st and the MTS is starting to effect me lol
Thank you for another great video! Over the years I've had freshwater and even tried saltwater without much success. Now, years later, knowing so much more about the hobby than I did back then. I feel confident in getting back into the hobby! Thanks again!!
what you say is 100% correct about doing 100% WC, but only if your tap water match almost completely your water tank parameters (especially KH and then pH). If you have active soil (like tropica aquasoil) that reduce your tank water alkalinity (by a lot) and you do 100% with your tap water (example, tank water sit a kh2 and tap is 8), you end killing your livestock (or serious harming it) due to osmotic regulation shock (maybe fish are more resilient, but shrimp will be all dead)
Can you explain why in the early part of a cycle your get a whitish bacteria bloom in the water if it's doesn't come into the water column ? And if bacteria does not enter the water column how does it use ammonia and nitrite that are in the water column? I know why it is but I'm asking you
Bacteria does enter the water column but settles and reproduces on surface area. All water touches all surface area. The whitish bloom is heterotrophic bacteria which does circulate in the water column and feeds on dissolved organics. Watch this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-46fcHvoellI.htmlsi=git4-96PC5DHpnPX
Newbie, I have a 50 gallon Tank running a 307 Fluval filter system, my tank been up running for about 6 weeks, have 1 rainbow shark 4 tiger bars I have algae, starting to show up on the glass and the water is getting cloudy,I also have what look like rust color forming on all my decor, and on the heater, and glass, not really sure what to do to alleviate the problem
That is the difficulty with keeping live plants! You have to make slight adjustments until you find the sweet spot...I'm still playing with my settings to this day!
Question? If i have a 75 gallon tank thatz been running for about a year,an i wanna move all the fish from it to a 125 gallon, would it be safe to move them immediately,if i put new sand in the 125,but the same decor, sponge filter,and hang on the back filter to the 125? Would that be enough to cylce the 125 immediately? An safe to put fish in? The same everything from tha 75 to the 125,only thing be different would be the sand and adding a Fx6
Should I start my 29Gallon with "Activ∙Flora" substrate? It says "instant cycling" and it contains "LIVE Heterotropic bacteria". I have one 16lb bag of this "planted aquarium" substrate. It recommends 2 lbs of substrate per 1 Gallon of water. Would it be safe to start my tank with just one bag and cap it off with gravel then add my plants. I have Windelov Java Fern, water lilly (bulb), water onion (bulb), and 2 Aponogeton (bulbs). I plan on going for Guppies when the tank settles and cycles for a few weeks.
So i have a 20 gallon and have a hanging back filter that i replace when dirty what should i do since i am now realizing im taking good bacteria out? And water is stil cloudy
tell that to my manager she believes that we have to make sure no bacteria grow at all when its literally what needs to happen>> not all bacteria are bad and im glad that theres videos like this that help educate about it
@@KaveManAquatics I'm glad I did, as I'm new to the hobby and have been doing as much research that I can on the science behind it, it really fascinates me
Hi, I thought, there are many invisible tiny dust particles from substrate and other sources, invisible to eyes which are present in water even with best filtration. Can't they act as surface for beneficial bacteria growth.
Hey man, quick question, I have a 55 gallon with a 110 aqua clear hang on back filter. Noticed that the water was stagnant on one side so I got one of the wave makers you suggested. I'm just curious if it's too much for my fish. I've got rainbows, black skirt, tetras, rummy, nose and some danios. The only reason I ask is all my fish are hanging on the other side of the tank opposite from the wave maker. Just let me know your response. Appreciate it
Those fish may not like the constant current. I would suggest an airstone on the other side instead of the wavemaker. It'll supply great water movement and surface agitation.
Many different tactics. Easiest one is less feeding and less light. But my book covers it all. It's short, to the point, and covers all the causes and solutions for cloudy water. Comes in eBook and Paperback. I promise you won't be disappointed! Check it out here - bit.ly/clearH2O
Sir i have a doubt... So basically any medicine which treats fungal or bacterial diseases is methylene blue?? Or if not so. Can i use laboratory prepared methylene blue!?
There are many more than just methylene blue which is a very strong anti-bacterial. Watch this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nQJqxfjF1J0.html
I wouldnt for multiple reasons. I have a free webinar training on African Cichlids, you should check it out! - event.webinarjam.com/channel/KaveMan-Aquatics
I see arowanas with african cichlids and discus. I have an all african cichlid tank and would like arowana. as I see its doable but not recommended? any thoughts?
Exactly what you've heard. Doable but not recommended. I've seen success and I've also heard horror stories. All depends on the individual tank and fish.
How would that affect other water parameters like hardness, pH, etc, would this mislead people thinking it's safe to do a massive water change and it would be safe for fish?
How would 100% water change effect parameters? It wouldnt if you keep your tank stable and equivalent to your source water parameters. If you have to manipulate your tanks parameters like when keeping African Cichlids, then you have to pre-treat your source water with whatever you use to reach those parameters before adding the fish. Great question!
@@KaveManAquatics he’s sadly got a lot wrong with him! Fin rot, eye clouding and budging, swollen bum I’m really trying here the way I received him was very sad!
Love you channel by the way. I have a quick question regarding water parameters. I have well water north of NYC. I have high nitrates out of the tap around 60 ppm. I recently installed an RODI to make my water. I know you don’t have a well living in the LI area but do you know anything about African cichlids and RODI water? What shot I treat my water with? What should my TDS be in my holding tank before adding it to my 125 gallon peach cock hap mbuna tank ? What should I add Seachem wise?
When using RODI water you need to remineralize the water. Seachem Equilibrium will get that done for you. Then the Africans will need Malawi Buffer to raise the PH even higher, Seachem Cichlid Lake salt to harden the water.
putting cycled media in a new tank is NOT an instant cycle, it is an instant jump start. if you have more than a few fish because you have lost all the bacteria not in the filter it still has to re populate to handle the bioload. you have to watch your levels and do water changes more often till the bacteria can handle the fish you have. there is absolutely no such thing ever is an instant 100% cycle.
Not true. I've done this several times. The last time I did this I put 25 adult African Cichlids in the tank the day after setting up new tank with used filters. Two weeks later I put 25 more. No spikes no illness no loss.
So if you have healthy seeded media of nitrifying bacteria, that is essentially a tanks cycle. It is that very bacteria that consumed the ammonia, converting it to nitrite and on to nitrate, which again is the tanks cycle. In order to complete that cycle you need the ammonia. Ammonia is food for the bacteria and in order to keep that colony of bacteria alive and well in a tank, you need waste producing the ammonia either in the form of decaying food or fishes waste. This is why if you had a well seeded media to a new tank its called and instant cycle and it absolutely works, because the media has the bacteria needed, and introducing the fish to the tank to produce waste that makes the ammonia so the bacteria can consume it is actually the completion of the cycle in reverse order. So yes there is a such thing as an instant cycle with media from an established tank. theres
Hi Kevin, loving your videos bro, what type of filter are you running in your discus tank? How much percentage and how regular are you doing water changes? I'm running a fx6 filter do you recommend additional filter like sponge filter aswel? Thanks bro
Discus tank has a 50 Gallon sump. That tank gets 50-80% water change bi-weekly...for now. As I add more fish and plants, that will most likely change. Dont know what size tank and how many fish you have to recommend more than an FX6. But if you wanted to add more filtration a sponge filter will definitely be beneficial.
Kev you hero can you do me a big favour, can you please do a API master ammonia and nitrate test on Wednesday then do your water change then wait till Sunday do you Sunday water change which is your big one then the Wednesday after do another ammonia and nitrate test before your water change to show people that there's a cycle that way noone can argue cheers bud
Do you think I'm going to mess up my beneficial bacteria? I have a 225 gallon aquarium with 4 FX6's On it packed with biomedia and sponges and I only clean them about once every 8 to 9 months if I do it any sooner than that it Doesn't seem worth it they're barely dirty If I dig out all of my 4 inches of substrate because I don't like the way it looks any more and I wanna try something new am I going to mess up my beneficial bacteria. I know people like father fish and Cory from aquarium Co-op would say this is a huge no no. They thrive and totally believe on 4 to 7 inches of substrate. But they don't keep a big fish and in my opinion. They don't keep "fish tanks" They keep "plant tanks" They're all filled with Nano fish that you can barely see. And barely produce any waste that's why the plants have an easy time on maintaining the aquarium. I was curious on your opinion because you and I keep a lot of the same fish.
Great video! I have a question though, I have both API quick start and Prime by seachem. Will these have the beneficial bacteria that will jump start the cycle? Thanks!
Hi. Thank you for the video 😊. I have one question, I will next week upgrade to a new tank. The tank is another brand and the old filters/sponges will not fit into the new one. Should I leave the filters inside the new tank for a while or what is the best way to do it? I hope my question is clear.
Not sure what you mean by old filter/sponges…are you using a sponge filter? Try to use the old media in the new tank as much as you can. Dosing with Seachem prime and stability daily until you can confirm a cycled tank will also help.
Kev, Been a while for a video. You are always delivering the goods and straight to the point. Some people even believe that the bacteria in a bottle is false and a misconception
Seachem STABILITY is several types of Bacteria Spores, essentially "Eggs that Hatch" after being added to the Aquarium. Seachem STABILITY needs to be Shaken WELL before measuring and dispensing because the Liquid stratifys when it sits.
@@KaveManAquatics Seachem STABILITY doesn't need to be Shaken violently, softly for about 30 or 40 Seconds will mix it well, especially so with a new Full Bottle. (Think how Salad Dressing separates when it sits)
CLOSE ! , the free floating bacteria is what makes water look white and cloudy, and even green depending on the type. Problem with free floating bacteria is that it will compete for resources with your beneficial bacteria (this is the part everyone leaves out) , keeping the BfB population down much lower than it should be otherwise. This is why running UV is important, it eliminates free-floating bacteria allowing the beneficial bacteria to populate to the correct levels. The problem is free floating bacteria is its not nearly as stable as beneficial bacteria, so when too much FFB is populating your tank, you are indeed at higher risk of a random ammonia spike, as the FFB can easily have a sudden die off for a number of reasons, and your existing lowered population BFB can't replace it fast enough to avoid a spike.
First, BFB does not replace FFB, nor would you want it to. Second, UV light is very "NON-important". It helps, yes, but there's nothing important or necessary about it. I've run all my freshwater tanks for years with crystal clear water without ever needing a UV light. Trust when I tell you, you don't need it! Third, every other correct statement you made is addressed in my full bacterial bloom video here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-46fcHvoellI.html
@@KaveManAquatics I didn't say anything is replaced, I said FFB out competes BFB for resources, keeping the BFB population far lower than it should be. This is the truth of the matter you fail to comprehend, and it's the reason you have been having the problems you have had for the last several months. I know all your smaller tanks can cope with your usual methods, I understand that. you have never had a tank this big, and you NEED to adapt. It's going to keep happening for as long as you remain locked into your current mindset. I do enjoy your youthful vigor though . Have you ever watch your son making a mistake, and then listened to his youthful vigor explain to you how you are so wrong ? Just curious ...
Sorry to hear that, but it could have been due to many reasons. Chlorine, ammonia, nitrite, temperature, PH....I highly suggest you check out my playlist for beginners. It'll be very helpful for you 😁 - ru-vid.com/group/PLP5OXTIIDO8NYvhUHAmwAd54WFmS4d8er AND, you should check out my new Aquarium Keeping APP designed for beginners! - aquabuildr.com
Good informative video, but I still hesitate to do bigger than 50% water change. There's an old saying between the elder aquarists of this world. "If the water is too clean, fish cannot live in it". And if I do 50% that is when there is something very nasty in the water, more likely to do 25 or 30% per week, that is healthy.
lets say that your tank does not have gravel, but has a flat slate rock in its place.. is this better then gravel because crap cant get into its crevices ?.. IS THE SLATE PLATE BETTER THEN GRAVEL ?@@KaveManAquatics
1:13 yes beneficial bacteria doesn't live in the water column but it does need water to live. doing a 100% water change will definitely kill almost all of your beneficial bacteria in your tank. All the bacteria that lives on the surfaces in your tank would die very quickly when not kept underwater, not to mention the little amount of bacteria that might survive would then just die when you fill up your tank with tap water even if you use a de-chlorinator like prime before filling up, its not going to get rid of the chlorine quick enough, so whatever bacteria is exposed to the chlorine would just die. the only way u could possibly get away with it is if you have an established canister running on the tank so you have back up beneficial bacteria, but if you only have sponge filters, internal filters or hang on back filters all bacteria will die and you'd be recycling your tank. yeah I be yappin
First, chlorine doesn’t kill bacteria instantly. Second, doing a 100% water change doesn’t mean changing the water in your filter, where 99% of the bacteria live. Third, I just used it as an example to explain the point, stop reaching.
The bacteria has to be exposed to chlorine for hours for it to kill it. From day one I have always cleaned my media in chlorinated tap water because I didn’t believe the nonsense. There’s plenty of info and videos to prove it.
@@KaveManAquatics you were only talking about the bacteria living inside of your tank in context to your 100% water change hypothetical. with that in mind regardless of chlorine not killing all your bacteria instantly it still would take a toll on the bacteria inside the tank. obviously if u have a canister than its not an issue but you didn't mention that for this example, so new fish hobbyist that may not have a canister could apply same method and accidently restart there nitrogen cycle. I get it was an example, but it was a bad example.
Bruh depending on certain factors like tank sizes and what fish you’re putting in an un-established tank, you’re gonna have ammonia and potentially lose fish if you don’t use other chemicals and products. Moving a filter to a new tank isn’t enough in some cases. Have fun with ammonia/nitrite spikes and stressed/dead fish. Sometimes you gotta be patient otherwise pay the money for bottled bacteria etc. I like watching this channel to learn what not to do with my tanks. Vague ahh information. You can’t fully stock a new tank with just a filter transfer. You will most likely have issues.
You have a lot to learn. You must not be watching enough. Literally everything you said you can’t do, IVE DONE! But you keep hating from the couch. I’ll keep growing! 💪
Moving a filter to a new tank with the same stock as the old tank IS ABSOLUTELY ENOUGH! Bacteria doesn’t care what tank it’s in, it cares about the BIO-LOAD! Do some research before commenting, it will help you not look so silly!
@@KaveManAquatics dawg I’ve done more research than you guaranteed idgaf about who has more views. Nitrifying bacteria is in the substrate not just the filter media. Keep paying for bottled bacteria, your tank isn’t cycled just cause u dose it with all kinds of products. U can’t full stock a tank with just swapping some media over to a new tank. U look silly with that hairdo I wouldn’t talk about silly lmao. Read some papers on the nitrogen cycle and educate yourself. Idc if you look up random opinions on quora or Reddit that doesn’t make them accurate. U pay for lots of products to dose then misinform the public. As I said before. I follow this channel so I can see what not to do lmao. Inexperienced fish murderer, how many fish have u lost do to haste and impatience? Lmao tf outta here with that receding hairline
Well! About 100% water change I did it accidentally I switched my pump off revived a call without removing the pump out of my tank. The syphoning effect continued till it almost emptied the whole tank. I just just refilled the tank no problem! The moral of the story is yes bacteria don't live in the water! And don't get distracted while doing multiple water changes😂😂😂😂