Hi Joe i came across your video as i, am at a cross road deciding whether or not to use benjamin moore scuff x eggshell or Jonos AG satin white on all my wood work. ? I was wondering about scuff x eggshell white ? Vs Aqua guard , Which would be whiter and more durable? AG satin white or BM scuff-x Eggshell ? Also a professional painter - Phile Beckwith, he told me to always stick to the same brands when using UN & TC Adhesion wise. However, Johnstone's Trade Joncryl Water Based Primer Undercoat doesn't sell to me. Adhesion is Blockwork / Brickwork Cement render Concrete Plaster Softwood Wood. Caparol Haftprimer, Adhesion for bare and existing paint coatings, enamel coats, wood, zinc/galvanised surfaces, unplasticised (rigid) PVC, aluminium, copper and many other problematical substrates before applying acrylic enamels(PU-Matt/Satins/Gloss) How long have you been using Caparol Haftprimer under Aqua guard ? I have spent hours & days sanding off old yellowed gloss from x 4 doors x 3 windows. I want to try your system, Caparol Haftprimer under Aqua guard. But I fear if the Adhesion doesn't last ? Please let me know how long have you been using this system ? outta 10 ? for trustworthy & durable ?
Hi, the old scuff x and Aqua guard debate aye?..lol......well ....first of all , shortly after I made this video ppg brought out the Aqua guard satinwood and I tested it straight away. In fact I had the opportunity to try it before it hit the shelves and I was converted straight away and I've been using it ever since. I have actually tested them both side by side, but what converted me instantly was the fact Aqua guard was,a much brighter white....id noticed that scuff x was looking off white compared to some wall's I'd painted in brilliant white Acrylic durable matt and isomat premium. In the tests I did, the durability of the aqua guard was better, and it held up to hand grease better than scuff x. Aqua guard also had similar adhesion going straight on, although I prefer a 3 coat system over old oil. I did use caparol haftprimer for a few years under it but have recently started using the new Aqua guard primer/undercoat....which is just as good but find even better on new work. I do like the finish on the scuff x eggshell....but actually now use isomat if I require eggshell as its much better value for money. All.in all, the Aqua guard system is superior in so many ways....value for money, finish, durability and opacity.......people think scuff x has,amazing opacity....but that's only because they only do off white colours.....I tested Aqua guard in both super white and cgantilly lace , and both were better opacity than the scuff x imo. I've also used the new Aqua guard matt on a couple of jobs and that's really good gear too 👍🏻 The only advantage for anyone thinking of using scuff x , is that it's foolmproof to apply...its more like a diy product ...non drip ect......and if someone wants to bodge a job in just two coats....the self priming marketing phrase used can give some people the confidence to get away with it....lol....
@@JoeProDecor my local paint outlet hasn't yet got the new Aqua guard primer/undercoat.. this was the one I wanted not the Joncryl . I am now facing a decision to use Everal 40 which has great reviews, but i'm unsure about the white. from pictures the white seems dull. it' The whites are a vague selection in everal 40. The more I research the best paint to use, I keep coming back to AG . AG has no negative comments yet Vs all the other paints. If I can't get my hands on the new Aqua guard primer/undercoat. I may go for a half primer instead. Your reply was very helpful. You obviously have tried and tested and reviewed paints. you know your paints ! thanks for the help 🤩
A good alternative to those who are not familiar with 2k primers is Fleetwoods Terminator shellac primer. A lot more tougher and coarser than its BIN equivalent which I found to more brittle on any lacquered or varnished wood. You get a good hard solid coat providing you leave it to cure properly and your surface has been cleaned, sanded and tacked properly which is essential when painting any kitchen. I sprayed Scuff x through my wagner sf 23 pro at 950psi on solid and laminate kitchens with no need to thin and it sprayed better than any lacquer or paint I've ever used. I was blown away by the finish it left, eggshell sheen level was beautiful. Cleaned out of the hooper quicker than any other paint as well. When painting laminate doors if you can remove the laminate with a heat gun you basically have a raw new surface which will provide better absorption and adhesion for most decent primers.
Hi mate, what other paints have you used instead of Scuff X? Just trying to gauge whether or not its worth me investing, just because im struggling to get a nice finish with other paints (Helmi 10 mainly)
Hi there, I currently use Johnstones trade Aqua guard satinwood....I couldn't recommend it enough tbh. Been usingbit now for a couple of year's. It is tough , probably slightly tougher than scuff x on the few tedts I've done side by side, the cost is obviously better value for money compared to scuff x because there are is no import tax added to the price...Aqua guard is also in brilliant white, which scuff x isn't.....the only slight downfall to Aqua guard compared to scuff x is it applies more like oil based and is prone to runs ....but after using it a few times you soon learn how to apply it. I always use an adhesion primer first over old oil and use it as a three coat system unless I'm going over water based. It is a misconception that scuff x has better opacity also.......if I need an eggshell finish now, I use isomat eggshell....again its brilliant white and better value for money than scuff x ........scuff x would be great if it was manufactured here in the UK and at a similar price point.......or for me its more of a luxury diy paint for people that want something easy to apply
Great review Joe. Scuff x has been my go to woodwork paint for around a year now and can't imagine putting 3 coats of paint on woodwork again. Works out cheaper for the customer too on certain jobs. Did you manage to get hold of some Aqua Guard before Johnstones closed to test? Looking forward to a review as it looks promising. I just hope it has the same adhesion and opacity as the Scuff x. Keep well mate
Hello Ben, yes the scuff x is game changer isn't it? Regarding the Johnstones Aqua Guard, I did manage to get some anx have actually used it on a small job. First impressions ardcthat I am Very impressed with it. Tried it with and without aqua undercoat, and results were pretty much the same. The satin adhered just as well as the undercoat, so with further testing I'm hoping it will generally be a 2 coat system going straight on. I am currently in the middle of some exterior work, and when I'm done I will be testing and comparing the Guard against both the original aqua satin and scuff x. I will be uploading the results on here 👍
Hi Terry, yes this gear is a 2 in 1 primer and finish, and although it does the job, I don't think you can beat the performance of a dedicated adhesion primer. The other thing to consider is do you really want to use this gear as a primer when it is so expensive? Unless of course you are only applying two coats. Because of this, I choose to apply a coat of caparol haftprimer over old oil, followed by Johnstones trade Aqua guard. I believe the aqua guard is a little tougher than scuff x , but is also a brilliant white unlike scuff x . Many decorators use this as a two coat system over old oil, but im not convinced that a two coat system over old oil is substantial enough....seems a bit of a corner cutting proccess to me.
I've just purchased some of this to try but in satin. I always use Aqua guard and have done for years but I'm intrigued in this as there's a lot of arguments on the forums which is better. Also aqua guard will go straight over old oil based if you prep it correctly so that's also a 2 coat system. Just need to be careful of runs 20 minutes later .But if the client is paying for 3 I'll use haftprimer as a grip coat. Good video 👍🏻
I personally now use Aqua guard as my goto water based satin for the following reasons:- 1- I would rather use a 3 coat system over old oil simply because I'd rather use a dedicated adhesion primer like haftprimer instead of a 2 in 1, which are ner as good at adhering to surfaces. So because of that reason, I choose Aqua guard because its much better value for money. 2- Aqua guard has come out tougher in comparisons with scuff x . 3- Aqua guard is brilliant white unlike scuff x , which has two main off white tints....one is a cream tint, the other having a grey tint. 4- I can aquire Aqua guard from over the counter in alot more places than scuff x Scuff x is undoubtedly a good product, but I realised alot of the benefits are just making it easier to apply, and potentially less coats because it claims to be a primer as,well....I see it more of a fancy retail paint, aimed at non professional painters
Hi David, it's a good product to use, and very durable for a single pack . I know others use it with good results but spraying kitchens isnt something i have delved into. For me....I just dont think a kitchen door or draw is ever going to be as durable once it's been painted...vinyl is more hard wearing which is why they are made that way...and there is a reason why solid wood kitchens were stained and varnished. I'd rather change the doors and draws if I was looking to update my kitchen...so I just have a few reservations about painting them.
Hi mate going to try this Normally use Dulux Trade oil satinwood Got a few customers asking for non yellowing paint Tried Dulux trade diamond satinwood water based but doesn’t cover that well and not as good to apply as oil Been on shaws website was wondering what white you use was it chantilly? Also have you used satin as well as eggshell Jeff
Hi Jeff, I've used both, but it was the brilliant white version on this video...the chantilly lace is not quite as brilliant white, and I was told it doesn't quite cover as well as the brilliant white/super white or whatever it's called...lol....the satin is equally as good, but with a slightly better sheen
What is your best recommendation for matt emulsion, something that is scrubbable but perhaps cheaper than scuff x for walls, also what is your none scrubbable choice of matt emulsion for walls, I would be applying via brush and roller.
My goto scrubbable matt is Johnstones trade acrylic durable matt, or Johnstones trade cleanable matt for a slightly more stain resistant matt finish...both are very good class 1 scrub ratings but cleanable is slightly more stain resistant but alot more expensive. I hardly use non durable finishes these days, but I use johnstones trade covaplus on rentals ect
Hi Joe I have quite a few bare ( unpainted ) MDF cabinet doors to do.Can i use Scuff X to do this job.And does it matter whether i use satin or semi-gloss as far as durability goes and do i need to seal the MDF first before undercoat.
Hi, the mdf needs sealing first...i usually apply a thinned primer, sand flat, apply a second slightly thinned primer, then abrade down sgain with a finer coarse paper, then a minimum of 2 finish coats....i just painted some mdf furniture using this system but applied 2 x primer, 1 x eggshell, 2 x satinwood....abrading with finer paper after each coat apart from the final 2 coats....the finish was like a spray finish
@Steve Smith Hi steve, i dont really have a favourite tbh...the last one i used was Johnstones trade MDF primer, a water based acrylic that worked great. Ive used zinsser bin in the past which worked equally as well but was recoatable quicker, but i thought the mdf primer had better opacity, so its pro's and con's like with maby other products
I have a three bedroom house, the whole house is been redecorated, all the woodwork gloss needs to be keyed up, skirting, door casing, doors, I'm using 120 gritt by hand, at the moment, feels like hard work, going to use scuff x satin brushed on as the finishing coat , but is there a better or quicker method, maybe using a detail sander or a sheet sander, or is that going to over key it?
I use an orbital.on flats and mirka sanding pads on detailed area's ....but you can't really over key old gloss as the more you sand that old gloss, the better tbh....applying water based over old oil usually takes 3 coats to get it looking a solid white...but if you decide to just apply 2 coats of scuff x then I'd recommend doing more sanding to get a better key for what is essentially a 2 in 1 paint
Hi Patrick, I'd say the sheen level very slightly less than say Johnstones aqua Guard, and Teknos 40....only very slightly though....also the Benjamin moore isnt brilliant white, they do chantilly lace and super white which are more of a white than brilliant white. Id say in keeping with what's fashionable in high end work.
Hi Paul, spraying flat doors is arguably the best finish, but other than that, I find a combination of roller and brush will give the best results. Roll using say a 6.5 inch jumbo sleeve then lay off. It's much easier to minimise brush Marks with oil based coatings because it takes longer to dry and flows better, but you can add extenders to water based coatings to slow the drying proccess to give better results...I use flowetrol, i hope this has been useful. Stay safe, Joe
What technique did you use to get so smooth ? I've applied this with a short fossa roller and then laid off with a Corona gold brush but not even close , then again I'm an amateur!
Hi, just remember to lay off smaller areas, or add a little extender in the warmer temperatures as this helps keep it open for longer. All the best, Joe
Also, the eggshell is a little more forgivingvthan satin as the smoother/shinier a paint finish is, the more it highlights the imperfections, including brush/roller marks
Have you used the satin version of this product and if so what is your opinion of it when brush painted? Eggshell hide's a lot of brush marks and imperfections , Just curious to know if the satin flows out as well as the eggshell appears to .
@@JoeProDecor thanks for taking the time to reply , think I'll place an order for some 👌. In your opinion do you think it needs any floetrol adding or is it good to go straight out the tin , if so how much would you add ? Sorry for so many questions but if I'm gonna part with £90 I want to be sure it's absolutely worth the money , I've recently painted some interior doors and Wainscott paneling with Leyland trade acrylic eggshell , after adding a few splashes of floetrol it became easy enough to apply but the brush marks (tram lines) didn't want to flow out , being an eggshell finish it does hide it nicely until the light catches it but if it had been a satin finish it wouldn't have been so forgiving . I'm not a professional decorator by any means but I strive for perfection in everything I do . Regards Peter
@@peterfido8735 Hi Peter, by adding a drop of flowetrol will always help with the flow, especially as it gets warmer. Benjamin Moore actually do their own extender also 👍 I've never added anything to it myself, and to be honest, if I felt I had to add extra to get a good enough finish...I probably wouldnt use it again as its already very expensive. If any of my clients want a finish without any brush Mark's using a water based finish...I would be inclined to spray it. Best regards, Joe
@@JoeProDecor thanks Joe , I've ordered some from Shaw paints and it will be here today , I've some 12'window sills to paint , does it have enough open time to apply by brush or would you apply with a mini roller ? I'm guessing my purdy monarch elite brush will be good enough ? Sorry for asking what may seem like silly questions .
I would use Aqua guard if they wanted satin, and scuff x if they wanted eggshell...tbh though itszall about the primer on plastic....haftprimer is my favourite. These paints are not the best option for furniture though imo, as they are not chemical resistant and dont do too well in areas that are being handled alot. I always explain this to my clients and let them decide as they are likely to needzredoing more often than if a 2k product was used
@@paulwilson1555 the issue you have with 2k is you can't really use it indoors without sufficient extraction and ventilation... but check out renner polyurethane coatings that can have an additive added to make it chemical resistant.
Hi , I need to spray a kitchen and would like a gloss finish and have 3500, would you recommend Bm advance gloss? And then scuffx for satin for this. Thanks
Hi Joe Im a painter ive just used this paint on some kitchen cabinets i put a water based undercoat on first as advised by the guys in the shop to use stix first then two coats on scuff x But the scuff x scratches off? The client is upset why wont this paint stay without it scratching off?? What more can i do? Please can you help? Steve
Hi Steve, so is it the stix that is not stable on the surface? Does it scratch off back to original surface? What surface did you apply the stix on to? Personally, i wouldn't apply anything that requires an adhesion primer on kitchens, for example if the kitchen cupboards are melamine or wrapped...i don't trust anything on plastic apart from specially made pvc 2k paints that require no seperate primer. If its on real wood, then the only time scuff x requires a primer, is if its bare or requires a blocking primer over stained wood. Out of all the water based acrylics I've tried, scuff x is the most scratch resistant....butvthat doesn't mean its completely suitable for kitchens tbh as they can get some hammer, but also keep.in mind that acrylics will take up to 8 days to fully cure as well. Cheers, Joe
@@JoeProDecor cheers joe Well its wood doors in the kitchen but i think they have a layer or coating of some sort its not any varnish. So if i paint over the doors without a primer and leave for a week or so will that do the trick? Regards Steve
@@vincepowder7321 could it be wax? Or simply some type of contamination? Have they been polished in the oast? But whatever it is really needs to come off first before priming ideally.....stixis all good and well, but those types of adhesion primers are formulated to go on smooth surfaces, i.e plastic, glass, tiles ect....all stuff that shouldn't really be painted...they dont work any better on contaminated surfaces, or surfaces that have been sanded/keyed/roughed up
Hi joe Normally use Dulux trade oil satinwood. Had a customer specify water based to stop yellowing .i used Dulux trade diamond satinwood. I hate it and it runs so much.dont know if it’s where I am used to oil.but just wondering does this scuff x run easily too
Hi Jeff, no the scuff x doesn't run as easily as the dulux diamond satinwood imo...in fact I dont recall getting any since I started using it. But the application method of water based is different to oil as I'm sure you are aware , and takes just a couple of uses to get used to it. The scuff x is recoatable after 2 hours usually, it dries with better opacity than the dulux and a separate primer isn't even recommended unless the surface is porous. Thanks for your comment
What would you recommend as the best water based compared to this. I only decorate at home and have used water based for a long time now. I get on well with it compared to oil based. I like the dulux with undercoat in it. But wondering if I have missed a brand that you might know about and would recommend. I love the sound of scuff x but out of my price range as I'm not earning on the job. I decorate average twice a year certain rooms not whole house..
@@mrbtboydify Hi barry, dulux diamond satin is ok, isomat isolac satin is ok, and teknos futura is quite good...but all these mentioned do sometimes need 3 coats either due to the opacity not being as good as oil, or the fact they need a separate primer over oil before applying the top coats
Cheers Joe. I eluded to wanting to give this a try when I saw your last video. This video has sold me on it. As I don't spray I do the usual things to try getting a brush stroke free finish but from what you said on this does it all itself nearly. I am going to order a tin and will then try and sell the idea to new customers. Have you tried the Satin and semi gloss in these? If so what is your verdict as most my clients seem to ask for a satin based finish. I believe Shaw have a good overnight delivery on the paints is that true? Cheers for this video it's been a massive help.
The satin finish is flawless like the eggshell and has the same drying times and opacity. You can easily 2 coat in the same day. Shaw paint service is excellent and is next day if you order before about 2pm.
Hi Joe cracking video.im an oil guy but looking at using this.got a big job end of month.full house wood going white.id normally do a coverstain coat.oil undercoat then oil topcoat. What woukd you do if using scuff x? Thanks for your help Derek
Hi Derek, I thoroughly sand the woodwork, and if its badly discoloured, I sand it back to the undercoat and apply the scuff x or johnstones trade Aqua guard straight on as they adhere just as well as a coverstain. I much prefer the finish and durability i get when applying two coats of the finish rather than one. Cheers, Joe
Hi Paul, yes that is possible with this gear as its classed as,a primer & finish in one...although for best results I would recommend a specialist adhesion primer as that is always going to do the job even better over old oil based that is. My preferred system currently is caparol haftprimer, then two coats of either bm scuff x or johnstones Aqua guard....Aqua guard is brilliant white as opposed to scuff x which is white or off white, both are equally as tough/durable, scuff x is slightly easier to apply(fool proof), but Aqua guard is better value for money due to no added import taxes with scuff x coming from the states.
@@JoeProDecor brilliant thank you, newbie question, when going over old gloss, do I still need to key up the area before using haftprimer, before the two top coats?, when doing a light sand in between coats, which grade of paper should be used?
@@paulwilson1555 yes its very important to key the glossy surface prior to applying any coat. These primers are specifically designed to be able to go ontop of shiny surfaces, but for best results it is always best to key first.....'preparation is key' as we say 👍 I usually use between a 220 & 320 grit inbetween coats depending on the amount of coats required and the substrate I am painting on...mdf usually needs the 220 ish on the first couple of coats
Hi there, I am yet to try the intact tbh, mainly due to many stories I heard on a well known forum. I was just holding out a little longer as it seemed to have a few issues with certain systems. I will look forward to trying it at some point but I'm currently trying out the new johnstones aqua guard which I must say seems very promising. Please look out for a video coming soon comparing it to the standard aqua and scuff x . Cheers for your comment and keep safe 👍
@@JoeProDecor Hi Joe...I know you from the forums/groups as it happens, didnt realise it was you lol..yeah, a cracking issue with Intact...not had it myself but I know a few have flagged it up. Apparently Tikurilla said they tweaked the formula and its sorted now, personally I dont beleive this as there is no 'no formula' labeling on the tins..but I have had some recently, again, with no issues. Never tried BM, the rep has said he was going to contact me a few times but never did, so........y'know lol
@@Lloyd1885 bm don't like giving samples out tbh....I had to buy a quarts to try(0.9 litres) A good idea is to go to one of their open evening events where they demo products and throw a few freebies in for you and a money off voucher for their gear
@@JoeProDecor They dont like picking up their phones and contacting people either lol...im in Wales, they dont get involved over this way. Thats the problem with a lot of these new paint firms, they rely on the internet too much for their marketing, and think because everyone bigs their paint up in the forums every deckie in the UK uses it..I'll get me hands on some one day.
@@troubleclliff Hi, yes it will do a fair job on cabinets... Its not the most durable method of course, as 2k paints are the most durable. Problem with 2k paints is you need a workshop that has extraction ect due to health & safety regulations, so scuff x is a very good single pack product that is tough when fully cured. Johnstones Aqua Guard is another one that is tough.
@@troubleclliff I personally would not use it on kitchens. I'd only go as far as say bedroom furniture orounge furniture due to the lack of chemical resistancy to these single pack products.
Would be ok imo as long as the surface is prepped and primed sufficiently, but only as long as footwear isn't used on them. It's not really meant for constant foot traffic.
@@gdpaintingdecorating5704 a couple of reasons tbh gary, firstly i dont trust the adhesion on the scuff x as much as a seperate primer like caparol haftprimer over old oil. Secondly i found scuff x wasnt quite solid enough on a couple of jobs wich had really bad yellowed woodwork, and the other being aqua guard is brilliant white which a lot of people want atm. Rather than looking for a product that can go in two coats most of the time, id prefer to go with a three coat system that is gaurunteed tbh.....i dont mind doing it this way, and ive decided now to spray the woodwork on larger jobs. Cheers, Joe
Hi Scott, I have tried it but the recoat time is too long tbh. I'm currently using johnstones Aqua guard satinwood mostly at the moment .. as it came out shortly after this video and its at a much better price
@@geoffreymeare3406 its more of a brilliant white....its tough but because its brilliant white, it sometimes requires a third coat over discoloured oil( primer & two satin)
Caparol paint is just as good in my experience and saves you getting shafted by Shaw Paints. It's cheaper than most retail dulux prices as well. Do like BM but this exclusive distribution shit just makes it unworkable.
I've used caparol pu satin ....its not a patch on Benjamin moore imo...nowhere near as durable....but I'd say the pu satin is similar to say isomat isolac satin
I agree that The pricing is frustrating though... I got sick though of having to use 3 coats of most water based paints on yellowed oil....and needing an extra adhesive primer first so I went back to oil.......until I used Benjamin moore that was.. so as long as the client is,willing to pay for it, it sometimes saves them an extra days labour compared to isomat, caparol, helmi, diamond, hmg, ect...ect
@@JoeProDecor Caparol haftprimer will cover up an axe murder in one hit. (don't ask how I know). The BM issue is compounded further, not just because it's silly money, it's not even UK size tins! US gallon/quart. For me it has to be waterbased as I won't tolerate yellowing at all, and it also has to be readily available.
@@juancornetto8243 if you watch my scratch test video.....its actually the caparol that fails...its also failed on me when sprayed so it hasn't exactly filled me with confidence tbh.
JoePro Decor that’s interesting Mostly semi gloss still here in the states specially if it’s going white Like you I would prefer a satin or a gloss personally.
@@bitTorrenter Hi, actually no thats not true...eggshell finishes on woodwork have become increasingly popular due to people not wanting a shiny finish. Eggshell is durable and wipeable, arguably not as durable as satin or gloss equivalent but still durable enough if the good stuff is purchased. 2 pack paints are available in matt or eggshell that are very durable, and this scuff x is one of the most durable single pack eggshells out there. Alot of high end work is an eggshell finish due to the extra cost of a good quality, durable eggshell finish without having a shiny finish that isn't currently that desirable. Many thanks for your question, Joe
JoePro Decor thanks joe i cant get on with other water based paints even caporol will try this is it really as close as a oil base and is there any other you can advise. Thanks
I agree its more work for sure, but with the scuff x , or johnstones aqua guard for example...the only extra work is the extra sanding which is made much faster and cleaner using a dust free system. Have to also agree about the finish with brush and roller, which is why alot are spraying water based now. Cheers for your input 👍
In most cases I agree, although I am currently now using Johnstones Aqua guard satinwood which is excellent gear if you are wanting a satin finish....the reason being that I find it just as durable as the scuff x, but without the added import tax added on, so the Aqua guard works out better value. I do still use the scuff x , but only if I require an eggshell finish....and another one to look out for is Isomat isolac for an eggshell finish . Although very good, the scuff x is an imported American paint, therfor we are having to paymuch more than what the Americans pay for it.....so in this case us in the UK don't necessarily get what we pay for
@@JoeProDecor do they do it in a gloss as im in the middle of painting a new kitchen for a client new skimed walls with new trim and they want doors glossed
😁 i had already used it Gareth and was very impressed, but I wanted more experience with it before posting a video tbh. I've not doubted its quality since the first time using it, but I just wish more of my clients would pay for it as its definitely worth paying extra for
@@JoeProDecor Tbh mate, I don't give my customers a choice. I have been 100% Benjamin Moore for about 4 years or more, very early on when Shaw Paints started. There is a price point for all my customers even on wall finishes.
@@gareththompson5269 it might get that way for me in the near future....at the moment I'm not sure I can afford to price that into every job at the moment
@@gareththompson5269 I prefer johnstones emulsion over the counter tbh....not keen on dulux trade on the whole due to it not being good value for what we are charged. I like Armstead trade also, but always go to johnstones if there is a bigger colour change
FYI: Scuff-X matte is NOT matte. I learned the hard way. It's more like an eggshell! For those looking for a matte, they lied and this will be a disappointing discovery after you did the work. I am so incredibly mad! It potential ruined a design project I specifically needed a matte for. I purchased cheaper Behr Marquee in matte for a different project a few months ago and at least it was matte as it said and a fraction of the price Scuff-X was. So MAD I spent so much money on this non-matte paint!!! Maybe they should relabel their Scuff-X and remove the word 'matte'!
Scuff x matte has 8% sheen level, its like diamond matt , or johnstones cleanable matt, and the reason for that is because they have to include a certain amount of binder to make it durable enough.
Its pretty impossible to get the desired scrubbability, and wipeability with a product unless it has a little sheen unfortunately, but i understand your frustration.
@@JoeProDecor Ya for sure..I totally do understand. I see by putting a slight sheen on it hides the scuff better, but I feel they shouldn't have called it 'matte' and the place where I bought it from could have told me that after I sent them a pic of WHY I needed matte so they can understand the context of the matte finish. Just for the hell of it, I painted a scrap piece of drywall with my Behr Marquee matte (iron black) & Scuff-X matte (black). I purposely scraped my knuckles against it to scuff to see how each would behave. They both scuffed. It was just more noticeable on the Behr because it was a true flat matte. Having a sheen on the BM was able to hide it better....but the scuffs were there. I don't feel they should call this a matte....but it is their version of it I guess. Just disappointing when i unsuspectingly paid almost $83 for it. No RU-vid videos I found beforehand said anything about the matte not being matte, but maybe they're out there. I was clearly not aware of the sheen content ( I see their angle of why they do it...clever). Thank you for your reply. I defiantly see your point. Thanks :)
@@sheriweber4506 No problem at all, and i would most definately have mentioned the matte if i had used it. Here in the UK, we are still pretty new to the scuff x , and it is very expensive here(around £95 per gallon) . We are mainly using it on woodwork az we can get much better value products for walls. Thank you for the query, as i'm sure it will come in handy for many. All the best, Joe
😂😂 yes it is actually recommended here for both woodwork and walls, and it does a very good job for a single pack paint with brush and roller. But due to the costs of this gear in the Uk, my goto water based satin is currently Johnstones Aqua Guard using a three coat system over old solvent based. Cheers, Joe
You will be amazed!! Scuff-X is the best paint for woodwork I’ve ever used. Dries fast, extremely hard finish, does not mark up very easily and if it does get dirty it cleans up remarkably well. I have used it on door frame, doors, furniture, cabinets, and walls… Really doesn’t get any better than this. You need to try it before you make your judgement.
@@JoeProDecorI agree joe, the price is the biggest hurdle for many of us...no matter how people try to justify the cost with opacity, number of coats needed and not needing a primer/undercoat it still works out to be a lot more expensive than its close rivals. And could mean the difference between winning or losing a job.
