Owner of Joseph Elwick Painting & Decorating(Joeprodecor) -based in the North West of England. Interests include everything related to the trade, and always take special interest in new innovative ideas and products entering the market. My other interests are #vanlife & travelling around the UK and abroad in my motorhome
@gulsameer2921 Hi, I cannot recommend Johnstones trade Aqua guard primer enough. Part of a fantastic Johnstones trade Aqua guard system that offers a matt, satin or gloss finish .
Just subscribed to your channel you have gave me so much important information and help can't wait to start my living room now with a bit more confidence thanks joe!
I was thinking about lifting the panels out this weekend and spraying them on the floor. Can’t help thinking it would be a much better and easier method… Am I wrong?
Ideally, you need to advise the power is switched off as I’m sure some people will use a metallic scraper or similar to feed the paper in behind the socket cover and that could be dangerous if the power is still on.
My walls were lined vertically then painted over. Parts of the wall are uneven and some of the seams have bubbled and need repasting. Must have been an amateur job. But why don’t you just paint overcoat on the walls?
Thexwalls we're lined to create even porosity for paintv to adhere consistently. All surfaces should be flat and free from nibs, bumps and contamination before lining , but this was a rental accommodation that required a budget job not a professional finish.
Hi Joe i came across your video as i, am at a cross road deciding whether or not to use benjamin moore scuff x eggshell or Jonos AG satin white on all my wood work. ? I was wondering about scuff x eggshell white ? Vs Aqua guard , Which would be whiter and more durable? AG satin white or BM scuff-x Eggshell ? Also a professional painter - Phile Beckwith, he told me to always stick to the same brands when using UN & TC Adhesion wise. However, Johnstone's Trade Joncryl Water Based Primer Undercoat doesn't sell to me. Adhesion is Blockwork / Brickwork Cement render Concrete Plaster Softwood Wood. Caparol Haftprimer, Adhesion for bare and existing paint coatings, enamel coats, wood, zinc/galvanised surfaces, unplasticised (rigid) PVC, aluminium, copper and many other problematical substrates before applying acrylic enamels(PU-Matt/Satins/Gloss) How long have you been using Caparol Haftprimer under Aqua guard ? I have spent hours & days sanding off old yellowed gloss from x 4 doors x 3 windows. I want to try your system, Caparol Haftprimer under Aqua guard. But I fear if the Adhesion doesn't last ? Please let me know how long have you been using this system ? outta 10 ? for trustworthy & durable ?
Hi, the old scuff x and Aqua guard debate aye?..lol......well ....first of all , shortly after I made this video ppg brought out the Aqua guard satinwood and I tested it straight away. In fact I had the opportunity to try it before it hit the shelves and I was converted straight away and I've been using it ever since. I have actually tested them both side by side, but what converted me instantly was the fact Aqua guard was,a much brighter white....id noticed that scuff x was looking off white compared to some wall's I'd painted in brilliant white Acrylic durable matt and isomat premium. In the tests I did, the durability of the aqua guard was better, and it held up to hand grease better than scuff x. Aqua guard also had similar adhesion going straight on, although I prefer a 3 coat system over old oil. I did use caparol haftprimer for a few years under it but have recently started using the new Aqua guard primer/undercoat....which is just as good but find even better on new work. I do like the finish on the scuff x eggshell....but actually now use isomat if I require eggshell as its much better value for money. All.in all, the Aqua guard system is superior in so many ways....value for money, finish, durability and opacity.......people think scuff x has,amazing opacity....but that's only because they only do off white colours.....I tested Aqua guard in both super white and cgantilly lace , and both were better opacity than the scuff x imo. I've also used the new Aqua guard matt on a couple of jobs and that's really good gear too 👍🏻 The only advantage for anyone thinking of using scuff x , is that it's foolmproof to apply...its more like a diy product ...non drip ect......and if someone wants to bodge a job in just two coats....the self priming marketing phrase used can give some people the confidence to get away with it....lol....
@@JoeProDecor my local paint outlet hasn't yet got the new Aqua guard primer/undercoat.. this was the one I wanted not the Joncryl . I am now facing a decision to use Everal 40 which has great reviews, but i'm unsure about the white. from pictures the white seems dull. it' The whites are a vague selection in everal 40. The more I research the best paint to use, I keep coming back to AG . AG has no negative comments yet Vs all the other paints. If I can't get my hands on the new Aqua guard primer/undercoat. I may go for a half primer instead. Your reply was very helpful. You obviously have tried and tested and reviewed paints. you know your paints ! thanks for the help 🤩
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Only video I've found comparing CS & BIN. Thanks! I'm painting cabinets. Store recommended BIN over CS, but I'm concerned about the quick drying time and your statement about 2 coats of BIN. Which primer would you use on cabinets? Thanks
Hi I've used this primer for a water leak in bedroom. I have give it 1 coat, but it does not look white is this normal? It looks the same colour as the water stain. I'm still waiting to give it top coat. Thanks
That's usually down to insufficient preparation work and lack of a good adhesion primer ontop.of old oil based paint. If the surface is cleaned and sanded, and a coat of primer is applied, it will never peel the paint off
palatine msp oil based satin and gloss best on the market all i use now interior and exterior its a pre 2010 paint cause there a very small manufacturer they didn't have to change their formulas so no early yellowing and very hardwearing no having to burn off paint on interiors which is ridiculous if you ask me shouldn't happen
Brilliant video, just what I was looking for, thank you. Can I ask, once you applied 2 coats of Coverstain to the stained area did you then apply 2 top coats of the finish paint to just the stained area or the whole ceiling?
I’m doing ceiling exactly like that but underneath the vinly there’s another thin piece of wallpaper underneath which is extremely hard to take off, any suggestions?
Bin would work but it's overkill. Really there is no need for a,stain blocking primer over old gloss, just an acrylic adhesion primer like Johnstones aqua guard primer for example. It's water based and adheres very well ready for the top coats
I personally wouldn't run anything other than water based through an airless unit. I would use conventional hvlp/lvlp or a turbine hvlp due to them being easier to clean
You can stick linkng paper to cement, but it needs to be flat and smooth . Linjng paper does not make axrough surface smooth, but sanding & filling is usually required to flatten off a surface ready for linjng. New cement would need sealing or stabilising before applying linjng paper to it
Quick tip, just use antifreeze, exactly same as pump armour, and can get 5lts for 20quid, used it for years in my impact 440 and airlessco's, can run it through those then stops any freezing issues over winter as well
Straight over with the selected finish.no need to spot prime over the stain block. As long as you get the application of the stain block right there shouldn't be any issues as in using the same nap sleeve for both applications. If the stain block has been stored in a cold room, make sure to warm it up to thin it and help flow of the product as it dries very quickly
