BenQ W1080ST DLP Projector Cleaning / Service P2 

Thankyou so much for the kind words. Congratulations to you for repairing your projector! I hope you get many more years out of it.

Excellent! Nice job!

Hi Bjorn, I also have one of these spots and would like to try fixing it. Did you just blow some air in the hatch that is opened at 11:08? Or did you open it up further? Thanks!

Nice job! glad it was helpful

Same here : ) had the exact problem he was fixing.. dirty colour wheel sensor

Nice work!

Thanks man I appreciate it!

Thank you for watching them!

Thanks for letting me know! That is the main reason I do these. It's far from rocket science and there is no reason to not help others keep their gear running and saving a few bucks in the process! I will offer to help you get a deal on a new lamp when you are ready(as long as you are in the USA since I don't have coupon codes for Europe). I only hope you change it before it explodes and ruins the work you did! Enjoy the projector and thanks so much for watching! -Frank

@@FixitFrank I'm in the UK. No worries. Thank you for your generosity though. I actually ordered a new projector before I took it apart. It's an LED with 30,000 hours life. One of those cheapish Chinese ones. It's actually really good. I got the vivibright gp100 (720p). No zoom but has a great picture. So now I have 2 projectors :)

Иван Спасибо!

You are very welcome! I am glad to hear it helped. :)

You're very welcome! thanks for watching!

Great to hear! I suspect you had some dust landing on the sensor by the description, but it could have been any one of those things. Another projector kept in service and money saved! Thank you for letting me know the video was helpful!

Those are just backup screws ;)

@@FixitFrank damn, i only had 3 backup screws ripped off

That makes me super stoked! Thanks for letting me know!

I'll have to try that. I experimented with a few chemicals but I always ended up cleaning it dry. One thing I I thought of was #9 Gun Oil. It might soak back into the oil-bronze bushing inside. The PTFE is a good idea. That will handle the heat and the force.

Hi Brian, If the back of the bulb broke off, and there was glass inside, the arc tube probably exploded. The actual "bulb" is/was a quartz tube that ran down the center. The glass bits you removed are probably what was left after it burst. If you have LED's and fans but no light, then I suspect a bad lamp. If you truly have no LED's no fans(ie it acts as if it is unplugged) there is much more going on. Make sure the lamp door is closed properly. It enables power via a safety switch. Check my video on lamps/bulbs, it shows the internals more clearly than I can describe. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3JrC_MBDeDA.html I can be a bit wordy so feel free to jump around the video to find what you need to see.

Hi Craig, compressed air is fine as long as you can lower the pressure to under 20psi or so. Otherwise cotton swabs will do it, just a little more elbow grease will be needed. Canned air can work as well buy be careful. If you spray it too hard it can freeze a surface and crack it. The concern about too high a pressure is due to the chance of scratches being made on the surface of the optics. Keep that in mind and take your time and it'll work out.

That's a tough one. Sounds kind of like a color wheel issue but it could be a few things. I'd personally try another lamp just to rule it out. Aside from that you would need to find out what is telling the projector to turn the lamp off. It could be a ballast issue as well. It might not be reporting the lamp igniting and not knowing it's working.

When you can, check your new lamp assembly. There are some cheap ones that have crappy IR filters that degrade pretty quickly. Once they degrade they can make the color wheel go nuts from being flooded by IR light that should be blocked. I have seen it quite a bit.

@@FixitFrank I bought two new ones with the red tint

Hello Robbert, You may be able to salvage the connector. Can you post a link to a picture of your cable? I believe you can purchase the cable without the entire color wheel. If you can post a video of the damage or a picture, I will be happy to help you get it up and running if its possible.

I apologize as I am not clear on your question. The fan connector will only fit one way. The pins are offset to make it so the plug cannot fit in if it is upside down. If you force the connector it might fit, but if it's inserted correctly it should slide in without any issue.

You have to take it all the way apart to get to it but it's not a bad job.

I do have some ideas! Did you buy a decent lamp? A lot (almost all) the inexpensive lamps do not have a proper Lens coating. This can prevent proper infrared filtering and flood your color wheel sensor with too much IR, causing the sensor to get flooded and shut off. One of the main symptoms is erratic color after bulb gets to full brightness. Before you buy a color wheel, remove the lamp and make sure it has an obvious reddish/blue coating on the lamp lens face. It should be pretty obvious if you hold the lamp to an angle. If it's clear or kind of greenish, it's not going to work. It has to have that coating. If your old lamps lens is still intact, you can replace the bad lens but personally I'd only do that to troubleshoot. I'd still find a supplier with the proper Lens. Now if you have a good lens and lamp, then I'd try a color wheel. I agree it seems odd that it did work until the lamp burst. I'd expect symptoms prior to the exploded lamp if the bearing had worn out.

Did you put the lamp door back on? It wont start without that. If you did and still have a solid red light and no response, it could be a power supply or mainboard issue but its hard to say which or what is causing it. Also, use the air carefully. I use it in conjunction with a vacuum. Just using air can push dust into the optics. less is more in these situations.

Thanks, Ya who knows. I just cleaned the whole thing still the red light unfortunately. @@FixitFrank

if you had the mainboard out, check the alignment of hte low voltage pins coming up from the power supply. if they are offset, this will also happen.

Hi Bill, It sounds like there is still dust in the optical path. The assembly with the DLP chip/Colorwheel has a few lenses and mirrors. The airspace inside is great for catching dust bunnies for some reason. Could you share a picture/video of what you are seeing? I am pretty sure your solution is to clean the optic block, but without seeing the symptoms I may be incorrect. Less is more with cleaning a projector. You can ruin a good unit if you mess up an optic block and the cost of replacement can be prohibitive(depending). Let me know if you can get me the pictures. I have an email listed in the profile if you want to email them rather than post them here.

Hi Frank Many thanks for your reply. After a second attempt I took more care and was successful in improving the picture quality. However I now seem to have made another problem, When the projector fans speed up for instance in 3d mode I now get a loud whirling noise, any ideas ? Thanks again

Bill Allen Sure thing. You probably have a wire leaning towards a fan or something along those lines. Id go back over your work slowly. There is something that isnt in place or pushed against somethign that is vibrating or catching on a fan/color wheel. One thing that popped into my head, check the flat wire to the color wheel. They can make a weird noise when they start fluttering from air flow or vibration

I have to admit this has been a eye opener and enjoying myself messing about for hours on end. Will do as you say and let you know the result. Thanks Frank

That does sound like a dirty/failing color wheel. The sensor may have dust causing the index mark to be detected incorrectly. Another cause is the bearing itself causing the wheel to drag and run out of sync. If cleaning resolves it, I would not worry further. If it makes no difference, then replacing the wheel would be your best course of action. Thanks for commenting!

Hi Paul, Is the lens zoomed out all the way? I know that these will show some visible distortion at the fullest? widest? Zoom setting. Other things that can affect that are the Keystone settings. It might be worth, doing a full factory reset on the image and geometry settings and starting fresh. If you want, you can email me or post a photo here of the issue and I can see if anything else seems worth checking into. My email is listed on the about page about halfway down.

Hi Michael, great job getting it this far. I suspect your lamp blower fan. Did the old lamp burst? If so, check the blower fan to see if it's stuck. A fast overheating error usually relates to a fan that isn't spinning. If the projector will run for 10-20 min before showing the overheating error if would be something else. The fan is the small squirrel cage like blower fan that dumps air into the side of the lamp. Glass bits can jam it up pretty easily.

@@FixitFrank Thank you for the response. I didn't have much time to work on it but I opened the factory menu and Fan1 Speed was 0. Hmmm... from what I found online, it looks like Fan1 is the front one and I can see it spinning. Would you recommend changing it anyway? Or is Fan1 the lamp fan? Again, thank you for your help.

It wont work without heavily modifying the projector. The lamp driver for the BenQ will destroy an LED if you try to connect it. The start up voltage can exceed 5000 volts. The running voltage will be 80-120V dc but at 2-3amps. That will also cook an LED. Another issue is the color quality of the LED. You really need an RGB LED with proper driver and the cost will exceed a new lamp for the benQ. In your case, I would look for just a bare bulb without the housing. You can source them for under 50 euro.

Hi it should let up pretty quickly. I'd say within a few hours. I actually run one of their lamps myself in my HT1075 and didnt have any issues. Does your old lamp still work? If you want a direct line to a good contact there, email support@purelandsupply.com He will help you out

is the lamp door pushing the door switch when you put the top on? that would be my first place to check.

You are very very welcome!

No worries! I'll do my best to answer. I'll start from the end and work my way back. re: dim in the corner, more likely the light tunnel isnt straight or one of the mirrors is moving. depending what optics were cleaned something else might have moved. The bulb position 'could' sort of do that but it would likely be obvious if the bare lamp isnt mounted in the housing properly or if the housing wasnt secured. I'd check the light tunnel though for sure. I dont think dust will be your issue as much as the mirror bits possibly shifting. I have some vids on light tunnels for other brands but the same theory applies here. re: thermal paste. I use generic silver stuff. Arctic silver knock off. I also like to use the heat pads if I can get them. Normal white paste is perfectly fine too. Anything is better than nothing. re: color wheel, Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com Send a picture of the old one with the number on that sticker thats on the wire. They are good. They ship DHL and take paypal. Let them know I referred you. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@FixitFrank Thanks a lot for your reply. It feels like the new lamp-house isn't "fixed" in the back like the old one were. Or more like the back is going up the more I secure the screw, causing it somewhat tilting down. Anyhow it doesn't seem reasonably that this would cause any "dimness" to a side. I will take it apart again soon to clean the tunnel and apply thermal paste. I will get some sort from my brother used for processor I hope that will do. I didn't know I could tilt the mirrors (good to know!), it's very hard to look inside the optics. I'll let you know how it goes :)

If I had to guess.. is it plugged in? I'm sorry. I had to I'd say either the thermal fuse wire isn't plugged back in or your door switch wire. I'd go back and check all your connections especially the power supply to mainboard junction. I forget the thermal fuse wire a lot myself.

Hi Edith, Are any of the other LEDs flashing or on? Is the lamp door installed? Do you have a BenQ W1080ST?

Hello Frank, thanks for responding so fast. Mine is w1070, no other led light on or flashing. It’s just red in power indicator.

I'm happy to help! Interestingly there is no mention of red power LED by itself in the service manual. I am merely guessing but I would check your wires that were unplugged. Also check the alignment of the mainboard and the connection to the power supply. You should get at least 2 LEDs when there is a red power LED issue. The lamp or temp should also be lit or flashing. I would unplug the projector and go over all your wires. I suspect you will find a wire that isnt plugged in all of the way or not at all. The keyboard wire would be my first suspicion. If it worked before it was disasembled, you only need to go over anything you unplugged while it was open. I have a nasty habit of forgetting the thermal switch on the power supply. Here is a link to the service manual. It shows the wiring. docslide.net/download/link/benq-w-1070-service-manual Interestingly I did find a reference to red power led. It can mean the unit is in a firmware download mode but for it do be in that mode, you wou ld need to hold down 2 buttons and plug the unit in while holding the buttons down.

Thanks Frank, I’ll take another look at all the wires and connections again.

You could. I would use glass cleaner over alcohol. Unless it's anhydrous. But Windex type cleaner would be fine

around 20-25 min afer turning it on

Hi Romano, it could be inside the dmd area. How old is your lamp? Sometimes when the lamp is failing, it no longer is bright enough to wash out the dust bits. If your lamp has 1500hours or, I would try a new lamp first. It's still a good idea to clean the projector but you may not have to go inside the optic assembly which is a good thing to avoid unless you have to.

@@FixitFrank Hi Frank, thanks for answering, I purchased this projector on September 13, 2016 and have barely used it, I doubt I passed the 200 hours

@@romano5785 That is very new to have dust inside that would cause that spot. I would try a gentle cleaning. Use a vacuum and have it pull air through the vents. Hopefully you can dislodge the piece enough to get it out view. It can't hurt to wipe down the lens with a damp clean cloth or paper towel(don't use cleaner). Otherwise it will involve tearing down the projector. I would still check the lamp hours and the lamp itself. If you bought it new then the hours will be correct but it you bought it refurbed or second hand, the hours may be incorrect. I keep mentioning the lamp because it would be the easiest item to replace and is the easiest to return if it doesn't solve your issue. Also it means you don't have to worry about opening the projector.

Now I got it working, but colors didn't get any better. Would you suggest replacing the color wheel or changing the lamp first?

I would change the color wheel. The fact that it seemed OK for a short period means the dust was definitely an issue but the wheel had finally worn out. Depending on the condition of the projector, 1600 hours is towards the end of the life but I would not expect it to be failing yet. Even hard run lamps can last 2000+ hours. I could replace the color wheel first. They are cheaper than lamps. Then if the color wheel works out, I would buy a new lamp. Make sure the bulb in housing is good quality, or buy the proper osram bare bulb and replace it in the housing. There are a lot of cheap junk lamps out there that will cause problems you didn't have before so be careful there.

@@FixitFrank thank you! I already ordered a new original w1070 color wheel. Next I will order a bare Osram bulb.

@@FixitFrank about 2 weeks ago I made a color wheel replacement, but it didn't help. When I turned on projector, the lamp lit up for 1-2 seconds and then turned off and Lamp indicator turned red. Today I got the bare Osram bulb and replaced it few minutes ago. I turned on projector and the lamp worked. Then I plugged signal cable and tested picture quality. It was awesome. BUT when I turned it off, mounted to ceiling and turned it on, lamp didn't lighten up and again - Lamp indicator is red. :( What should I look for now?

​@@FixitFrank Today I turned it on and it worked for ~15 minutes before light turned off and "Lamp" indicator turned red. I just found one of your other videos where HDMI chip were the problem. This could be my case. About 2 years ago I had a power surge that burned both HDMI ports of projector and HDMI port of my PC video card. However I was able to use the analog port last 2 years. Is it possible that this problem of bad HDMI chip worsened over this time? Would you suggest to remove the HDMI chip?

Hi Glenn, That sounds like a valid diagnosis by the symptoms you described. If it moves around when the projector is inverted, it means the mirrors became unglued. It's a small square tunnel made up of 4 first-surface mirrors pointing inward. It concentrates the colored light into the first set of lenses. As long as the segments haven't broken into pieces, they tend to be repairable. I posted two videos on replacing the light tunnel in an Optoma TWR1693(ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HUV3PPZoFeg.html). It is a newer yet very similar to your MP727. You can get an idea of how they work. Once it's fixed, it needs to be aligned. Fortunately there is no need for lock-wiring anything. If you want to take a crack it first I think a light tunnel repair is a good way to learn to fix them. That model is pretty standard and should be reasonably easy to open. You will break some plastic clips, the screws do all the important work. The MP720 is kind of close. It was the closest service manual I could find. elektrotanya.com/benq_mp720_docs.rar/download.html Feel free to let me know if you need help or just want to send it out.

@@FixitFrank OK.....I watched your VERY informative video on the light tunnel and felt emboldened to attempt looking into the projector to investigate. I got quite a ways into it but then chickened out after thinking that I wouldn't have any parts to fix it - so I put it back together again. I'll use the projector again this Sunday but then I'm sending it to you. So I need your shipping address please. Your videos are awesome! You can email me at: westbendnaz@gmail.com Thanks again! Glenn

The temp led makes me think you have a jammed fan. however I have also seen that with a bad mainboard. Check to see if any fan is unplugged, or jammed. If not, then there is a good chance your mainboard is bad

@@FixitFrank Found it....apparently the top cover has a metal pad that touches on the Mainboard to show that it is closed. This was bent. So, green Temp and Red Lamp means that the top cover is not in position. It's weired because this is not described as a fault on the manual....

Hi David. I do not think it's the bulb and kind of don't think its the color wheel(yet). However I do have a few question. How are you connected to the projector? VGA cable by chance? If not, how are you feeding video? I only ask because the symptom sounds a lot like a bad VGA cable. For some reason the red seems to go bad first and a violet image can be the result. That said, it could be the color wheel sensor but I would expect more color flickering if that were the case. The bulb is still nearing the end of its life but you would not lose one color if it were failing.

@@FixitFrank Thanks Frank. Im using a red, green, blue component cable. I have swapped cables but this did not help. I stripped down the the machine last night to clean the sensor but again no change. I have noticed a slight flickering in the image since putting the machine back on together.

@@Davidbrown-wh4pu Interesting. What about with no signal connected and just the menu? Do you still have the same issue? Also, how loud is the color wheel? Would it be possible to post a video of it for me to look at? The W100 is older but far from a low quality projector.

@@FixitFrank with the no signal screen i can see a little red. There is a logo with some red in it. Do you think it could be the image source that could be the issue eg TV box? Im struggling to find something else to to use as source footage to rule it out. Im heading to work now so i will video the sound tonight. Thanks for your help!

Sure thing. Id rule out the input and maybe use a video input or even the VGA. Here is a link to the service manual. They have a pretty good troubleshooting section. drive.google.com/open?id=1rJf1YNeCnZvufx_NxS8kseFQMuhSlaF3

Wow! 3500 is pretty good. It sounds like you either lost all the color wheel segments or something very unusual happened. I'm leaning towards losing the segments. You should hear them rattling about if so. As far as where to get them? I like Time Electronics. Email Crystal at gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com and she will make sure you get the right parts. They are fast shipping as well. eBay is also an option. As long as the seller has a good rating you can't go wrong.

Hi Frank! Thanks to your videos I had the courage to open and clean my projector thoroughly, everything is perfect now! I didn’t really see any dust but I suspect it was the color wheel sensor. Thanks again!

its most likely inside the optic assembly on the face of the DMD and on the back side of the main lens.

@@FixitFrank oke thank you man. Its funny when its not static black pictures you cant even see them.. if i am watching any video or anything barely you can see.. Is that possibly to clean?

that about right, it can be cleaned. Check my other benQ cleaning videos or check this one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kc1AaMTdXFA.html its pretty close to yours so the same steps should apply.

@@FixitFrank I just saw your video, nah it wasn’t the same problem. I had a bunch of white symmetrically circles, and they showed only on static black background, when I was looking some movies or anything, you cant see them they showed when its black static pictures.. ps. I completely disassembled all parts as you on this video and clean it all as i can and now its good, I didnt touch optic assemlby at all, so idk what was issue but its good now, on your video you can see clearly dust, but this was something else. However thank you man you saved me some money and time. I appreciate a lot.

Only a couple hundred hours? That is no good. I'd have to see it in a video or picture to day with any specificity, but I would first try a factory reset in case its a setting. Otherwise if you are under warranty, I would exercise that and get BenQ to fix it. It could be a mainboard issue or DLP chip and those are expensive and a hassle to deal with.

I bought the unit years ago. somewhere around 2008. the bulb needs replaced but haven't used it the projector in years. I fired it up the other day and it still has a great picture. the text is still an issue but not a deal breaker. I read in a couple reviews about the same issue others had with this unit. I thought you might of heard of this issue with this model.

the text issue usually shows up in credits at the end of a movie..

Oh ok. I see what you mean. I have not run across this myself. I would still give the reset a try. It won't hurt. Otherwise it could be a DLP or main board issue. The color wheel may have something to do with it but I doubt it since it's more pixel related of an issue. It might be worth trying different format inputs to rule out a processing compatibility issue. Best way I found is to unhook everything and see if the on screen menu has the same issue. If not then it's more likely the input.

It does it with DVD's and television (Comcast). I ordered a new screen and bulb. once it's set up I'll take a quick video to show you the issue. I will reset it it first and see what happens. it doesn't do anything with the onscreen menu, only DVD or television. I had the computer hooked up as well but don't recall if it had issues there...might of with the text to the icons on the desktop screen. it's been a while so we will see how she does...thanks for the quick response.

Hi Alex, I'll start from the end and answer back. Measuring the lamp plug voltage is not really possible. The ballast outputs varying voltage. It will start at many thousands of volts to ignite the arc, and then lower the voltage and increase the amps to sustain the arc. You can use a scope with a HV probe sometimes but it's not really needed. Your best bet is to see if you get 380DC into the ballast from the power supply. If you get that then its a good sign. Then you want to check to see if you are getting a Lamp_On signal to the ballast. If you get the 5v (or 3.3v) to the turn on circuit of the ballast and have the 380, then you might have a bad ballast. If you dont get a Lamp_On signal then something else is telling the ballast to stay off. This is what I suspect. The fan will usually start shortly after the lamp ignites so it you are not getting the fan to come on, then its normal operation if you have no lamp lighting. My guess is you still have a color wheel issue. Any idea why the old cable burned up? That is very unusual. I'd start checking around the color wheel circuit. What is your skill/comfort level here with measuring/troubleshooting?

FixitFrank I’d say medium/high level just new to projectors, will do some more trouble shooting and report back, the ribbon cable was burned where it was closest exposed to the lamp so I don’t suspect anything happening there anymore

@@Alex-jy4ps Gotcha, I'm glad to hear it was not melted from a short. Make sure that blower fan is loose and not jammed in case its trying to start and not able to. I doubt its your issue but its a simple thing to check. Next is see what you have on the CW sensor output(DC volts). You should read 3.3 or so and it should pulse when you see the wheel spin up. If the voltage on the sensor output has no change, then I would check that wire and make sure its not broken at the sensor board. I have seen that. I have to ask, but did you bypass the door sensor switch?

@@Alex-jy4ps Did you find a service manual yet? If not, try this link. elektrotanya.com/benq_w1070_w1080st_ver.00a_level3.pdf/download.html You will see the actual download link after 30seconds or so on the lower left of the page. It'll say 'processing..' for a little bit then go to Download.

FixitFrank I got around to some more testing I got 386v to the ballast and the 5 volts, have you ever tested every part on the ballast to know what’s bad? Or do you just buy a new one and call it a day

I'd suspect the lamp. Either it's wearing out or if it's new, it might be defective or not compatible. How old is the lamp?

FixitFrank the lamp has 2200hours based on counter. Second serious issue I figured is www.avsforum.com/forum/index.php/#/topics/1629409?page=36 No border light at picture - whole wall around picture highlighted

Hello Victor, I would definitely try a new lamp. For some reason the link you shared is only resolving to the home page for AVS forum. Regardless 2200 hours is worth replacing. If the inside of the lamp has any white deposits in the arc tube it would make sense.

Hi Jay. That is most probably the color wheel. Those TVs are notoriously prone for dust build up. Color wheels are pretty cheap if I recall correctly. You may get away with cleaning it, but at the worst you can replace it pretty easily. I haven't done one in a while but I do remember it not being too bad to do. Hopefully its just some dust build up on the sensor and not the wheel itself. Another smaller possibility is a capacitor failure in the power supply. Check the CQ first. Good luck!

FixitFrank ok thank you so much.

Hi, I list an email on the about page but keep in mind I do have a day job so it might be a few days before I can reply. I do try and reply to everyone though so I should see your email sooner than later.

You will need an entire color wheel if the cable is melted near the wheel. Buying OEM will be difficult. BenQ is made by many companies. Coretronic, Delta, etc. However, If you choose a seller with at least 99% feedback, you will be sure to receive a good quality replacement. I should mention color wheels are not made by the company who makes the TV/Projector. Rather they are bought by the company usually from a factory in China. I have used this seller before and had good results. www.ebay.com/itm/BenQ-W1080ST-projector-color-wheel-BenQ-W1080ST-color-wheel-BenQ-w1080-farbrad/272413494266 Good luck!

Thank you so much for your reply.... You mention I was able to find the Color Wheel around $50.00...Your link offer OEM (will go that way with your approval), however I was searching last night and found several stores, will you be so kind and let me know if are OEM for my W1080st ? Trying to save little $ but do NOT want to go with fakes (again willing to go yours if is secure and safe item I'll get..etc) Also in Image it have it as RBGTGBW ? understand W1080st is RBGRBG (am I correct?) or the image is only for illustration ? Here are several store I found from Ebay... Your the Expert ;) www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Color-Wheel-w-Flex-Cable-Tools-for-BenQ-W1080ST-Projector-ZJOT919/192655113765 www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-VERSION-ORIGINAL-BENQ-W1500-W1070-W1400-W1070-PROJECTOR-COLOR-WHEEL/172778864637 www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Projector-Color-Wheel-For-Benq-W1070-Repair-Replacement-Parts-Direct-Use/283215169757 www.ebay.com/itm/New-DLP-Projector-Color-wheel-For-BENQ-W1080ST-W1070-TH1070/222920404115 Thank you so much for your time.

Sorry for all my reply's, I'm ready to make the purchase and will appreciate your feedback. what do you think about the stores I found or they're not reliable ?

@@Rafael-pd7tj I would go with either www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-VERSION-ORIGINAL-BENQ-W1500-W1070-W1400-W1070-PROJECTOR-COLOR-WHEEL/172778864637 or www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Projector-Color-Wheel-For-Benq-W1070-Repair-Replacement-Parts-Direct-Use/283215169757. I would also message the seller to make sure it is for W1080st. I would not go by the picture. The index mark is also important. Even if the color pattern is correct, the index mark must be in the correct position.

@@Rafael-pd7tj The stores you found are probably fine. I like higher seller ratings and faster delivery. Any of the 3 would send you a good color wheel, but the company I shared, I have personally used. Any of the 3 would be OK. I see no problem with the 2 in the previous post. Happy to help you!

Just taken apart, and the wheel is not spinning as freely as in your video. Do you think thats what is making the noise and stopping the light turning on? Anything you suggest, or is it time for a new wheel?

Hi John, That could definitely be the cause. If the color wheel does not get up to speed, the lamp will not start. You could try getting some isopropyl alcohol into the hub of the wheel. It may free it up enough to test but I would still replace it. They last about 7 years on average. If you would like to post a video of the issue, I would be more than happy to confirm the noise. Thanks for watching!

@@FixitFrank Hi Frank, thanks for the reply. I have uploaded the video, and can be seen here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NnPnEg9aEl4.html. Appreciate your thoughts on it.

Were you able to get this fixed? I'm having this same issue with my w1070. Looks like the Fans come on and the color wheel spins but the lamp doesn't come on. The projector will then turn off. Not sure if I have to replace my color wheel or the bulb?

@@mambo2k06 RU-vid notifications are awful. I had no idea you posted the video. Many apologies. That is definitely a bad color wheel. It is trying to spin but it can't. That noise is telling me that it is beyond repair and needs replacement.

Hi Jim, Can you post a video or picture? My first guess would be the connection between the DLP board and the mainboard, but I would not say 100%. Is it giving white lines without any input?

Thanks! Yes, whites lines, even with no input. But you were right. I made sure all the connections between the DLP board and the motherboard were tight. White Lines are now gone. thanks!

That makers me smile! Enjoy your projector!

Do you have the lamp door attached and made 100% sure the other wires are attached? Specifically the two pin wire that goes to the heat sensor. That will cause this. But to be sure, which wired were not connected correctly? I want to make sure you didn't short out the power supply.

@@FixitFrank Thank you for your quick answer.door was 100% attached the heat sensor i will check later .

i checked the heat sensor cable is ok. this i get when i connect to power cable. ibb.co/6s5fkcG i can not turn on the projector. i think first time i connected following sockets badly power supply and mainboard. ibb.co/59JHX04 ibb.co/XS3kDrF here is the bee ibb.co/TrgvcK8

That is crazy! A true bug in the system. I think now is time to check voltages. Which pins did not line up? Power supply to mainboard? I will find the service manual with the voltages to test.

cdn.cnetcontent.com/93/aa/93aa4b38-9162-478d-8b56-9a071fef5f9b.pdf Here is the service manual. Id read over it but I think P138 is where you want to start.

Were you able to solve this? I saw your other comment and was not sure which was first.

@@FixitFrank Hi yes that is a new comment about the hc4000

Hi Marko, Can you post a video/picture of what you are seeing? Optical issues are hard to describe in my experience.

@@FixitFrank can u please give me your email or u can answer to my.. markich07@yahoo.com

@@FixitFrank because i cant put any pictures here

@@djmarkom you can upload them to imgur.com and copy/paste the link. I'm sorry but without being able to see it myself, I cannot give very useful advice. There are so many possibilities as to the cause. Could be the lamp, could be the light tunnel bracket, or one of the lenses in the optic assembly or the main lens, possibly dust or the the DLP lens might be failing. It could be an electronic problem where the DLP chip isn't getting proper data and not flipping the mirrors fully. There are so many things that can cause uneven brightness. I would hate to send you on a wild goose chase. Hopefully this gives you some direction.

@@FixitFrank here are some photos imgur.com/a/hSplyTE

Hi Karla, I'm sorry! I had to update/replace my email. I thought I moved all the messages over. Please contact me frank@fixfrank.com The old email is deleted.

I can't find it neither. It was on a hard drive that went bad on me a few years ago. I am expecting another W1080 shortly though and will make a follow up or newer version of this video. Sorry about that. If you have a particular issue, feel free to mention it here and I will see if I know what you need to look at.

@@FixitFrank It's all good, I already mailed my HT1075 to you, thanks for helping me out!

Id be leaning towards a bad color wheel. That is sight unseen of course but usually when the image goes purple its the color wheel not syncing up right. Usually when its at this point it needs to be replaced.

@@FixitFrank thanks a lot. maybe i give it another shoot to see if i can somehow fix it. otherwise im just ordering a new one. if there are still some new ones left

@@FixitFrank do you know a good source to find a new color wheel ?

@@anti_blu I do, depending on your location, eBay is a great source. There really is no "OEM" color wheels anymore. Any seller with a good rating who has them is worth using. Or, feel free to email my friend Crystal at Time Electronics. gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com is her email. I would send a picture of the old wheel so she can confirm it is what she has. They look to be about $30~ shipped from China. Here is the eBay link. www.ebay.com/itm/COMPATIBLE-COLOR-WHEEL-FOR-BENQ-W1070-W1070-HT1075-PROJECTOR/183771918111

Hello! I see your email. I will respond today. I have a lt260 in my storage and I will check.

I found information that 6 flashes of the LED indicates lamp start failure. See if the color wheel is starting. Maybe try another lamp. Ushio 230w I believe is the lamp you want. Here is the manual. www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_1842.pdf troubleshooting section has led flash codes. My guess is color wheel bearing failure, lamp is defective or maybe a ballast. I would suspect lamp or color wheel now. Color wheel is very used by now.

@@FixitFrank yes, lamp is not flashing. so i think result is clear. I will see it tomorrow morning and i am go to factory for night shift. bye.....

@@FixitFrank but, I do not think that any fault exist in color wheel, bcoz its revolving movement so nice, maybe sensor problem or other which is not comes in my mind.

Does the lamp come on? Did it work before you cleaned it? If it did, go over your connections again. It's easy to miss a wire.

@@FixitFrank if it worked, but the temperature indicator lit up. When putting the secret menu it indicated that the fan number 4 in 0 rpm

You are correct but it is only needed if there is build up dirt that wont come off easily. Dust can be removed without alcohol. I prefer to not use solvents on components unless I have to. Alcohol can damage things. Especially optical components if they are using an acrylic coating. Less is more in these situations.

Hello FixitFrank, I did post a concern in your RU-vid Channel, however did found the issue; I plug the Color Wheel backwards...lol As soon try again (carefully watching you) and try again.. Amen! is working :) Have another symptom (I guess) 1st I notice is little hard to focus and while screen image is black (loading PC) there some dots like, on screen, I think is more like dust in lens… Advice how to Clean it ? 2nd one; After few minutes Turbine Fan goes on w/heat and Power goes off (Red) and Temp green light... Why ? Lamp is Brand NEW Full OEM from B&H...>> Any Advice will be highly appreciated :) Sincerely, Rafael

@FixitFrank Hello, just to inform; I did send you a PM Email in regard the dirt in my Lens and maybe some steps to follow to resolve or narrow down where it is... Also I did answer your offer, please reply and let me know if you got my PM Email. PS: Everything you had done is Highly Appreciated.

You are very welcome! I enjoy helping folks. You have a bad color wheel with a thrown segment. One or more of the colored panels has detached from the hub and is preventing the wheel from spinning. Once it tried a few times it probably pushed the segment out of the way and spun up making that loud buzzing. I have changed many in that model. The fact that it ran this long is a testament to how well you take care of it. They usually do this after 7-8 years. A new color wheel should get you back up and running.

@@FixitFrank Do you remember how to get to the color wheel assembly? I am still trying to figure it out. Here's how my HD1000 looks like under the hood: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q1EFyAIe9Zw.html

If I recall correctly you need to remove the upper PCB assembly and work your way in. since the wheel is directly in front of the lamp area, that is your goal. I believe the lamp-well(area where the lamp sits) stays in place. I am trying to find the service manual but no luck so far.

@@FixitFrank Oh boy! I was afraid of that. This projector is tightly packed under the hood. Thanks for the tip! I'll let you know how I make out (may be a few weeks).

You can email me a sales@weezytech.com It kind of sounds like a possible powersupply or mainboard issue. I can't rule out a bad DLP chip though. I will wait to see a picture. Thank you so much for the kind words.

@@FixitFrank just sent. Tks a lot from Yen Fong

@@FixitFrank btw. Have u gotten my pic email ? Not sure if your email has a in front of sales or not. Just double check. Tks

Just wanna provide update in case others having similar issue with my case. My projector ended up replace the dmd chip and clean out the dust to repair the unit. Hope this thing going strong again for couple more years. :)

To me that looks like a dirty color wheel sensor or possibly a failing wheel bearing. The lamp looks like it's on the way out but not failing yet. The way the colors quickly shift it looks like the wheel losing sync with the dlp chip.

Hi @@FixitFrank I just did whole cleaning thing from your videos and after turning on picture is perfect and problem with colors is fixed. But now fan (or more of them) are working much louder, than before. In service menu I see temperature starting from 380 and after two minutes goes to 400, while fan speed/target goes from 3400... 3600... 3800... 4000 No alarms yet. After that I switched off device. What could be problem? I think I did everything in assembly/disassembly as in video.

@@dragansimendic1972 I would check over the fans and where wires or other parts might be blocking a fan. I like to go back over each item I touched and give some extra attention to how the pieces are sitting. I would think the lamp fan might not be in line with the duct to the lamp, or the lamp may not be seated? Unfortunately there are many possible causes. A few points to verify would be the lamp blower fan and any wires blocking the airflow into the lamp. Also lamp exhaust fan. Be sure the arrow label is pointing outward. I recall the wire being long enough to allow the fan to be reversed. Fortunately the fans and temperature were working before the projector was disassembled. That means something is probably slightly out of position or a wire is blocking the airflow into a fan. Since the issue is temperature related, check anything near the lamp and optic block to see if it needs to be adjusted or re-seated. I sometimes have to re-assemble a projector a few more times than I would prefer to chase down these type of problems. One thing I definitely recall is the optic assembly being touchy to get seated correctly. It would seat down but it would not be fully in position. If all else fails, follow the disassembly and re-assembly steps in the service manual. I have removed things out of order without realizing it and caused similar problems. With all of that said, I think the problem will end up being easy to solve.

Hello! I would try cleaning the color wheel first. The lamp is nearing the end of its useful life but it is not your root cause. The color wheel is more likely the cause by your description. If it just started, a careful cleaning may resolve it. Worst case you can replace the color wheel if the cleaning ends up not repairing the issue.

@@FixitFrank thank you! I did it yesterday and it helped! It works perfect now.