Berme REX-C100 PID Temperature Controller 

I think it's only running 12v as per the fan so his shock wouldnt be more than a tickle really. but if You were running a 240 heating element? yeah i'd steer clear of any wires lol

@@zombieprinting2670 12V cant penetrate normal skin on your hand :)

Not sure what you are asking.

Sir g kindly tell me how to remove error from xmtg 708 controllar temperature

never trust any Chinese electronics from aliexpress/ebay if you want to switch any serious power. The controller itself is fine.

did you get the answer?

I'm not sure how this is working. I have the same SSR and it does not work with DC loads. It will turn on but not turn off as per what I everyone else says about using an AC SSR with DC. I got a DC/DC SSR and it worked fine with my 12v DC fan. I just used it for my Offset Smoker over the weekend and and for the most part it was dead on and held temp at 106 to 107C for 4 hours. It did go crazy once but it was because I opened up the grill to rearrange the meat and it dropped to around 40 C. It way over shot to 130. I think there are settings to help control this.

Buy a real one from RKC Instrument Inc. in Japan and you will not have problems. Berme REX-C100 are chinese imitation controllers that can catch fire and they do not meet any of the quality specifications. These instruments are DANGEROUS AND ILLEGAL!!

SSR turn on and off with DC when they get signal on the input but they switch AC on and off ...usually mains at zero crossing to eliminate noise,arcing and overloading ....

@@ingridmeijer1578 You must be a sales rep for that company because you post the same answers all over the web.

SSRs are for AC only. Back to back SCRs or a triac. They shut off as the AC voltage passes through zero V. I don't understand why it's working for him in this video - guessing the "wall wart" must have been unfiltered DC dropping to zero every half cycle. For DC you might want an N-channel mosfet (with a 5 volt gate if that's the voltage that comes out of the controller - I haven't measured it) to switch the minus line of your heater.

It will be here tomorrow.

Same

Dear, i know a manufacturer of this temperature controller which in china wenzhou. Their website: www.controllermeter.com.

This one may but I have one with the same type of product code and I can't change it from C to F. Not all Berme PIDS are the same and no real way to know beforehand.

You can change in sl2 000 is c and 0001 is f

rimmersbryggeri Like I posted I can see that setting but on my I guess clone you can't change this value.

sl1= 1000

rimmersbryggeri same have alarms so don't. Also some have one and some have two alarms.

Bill Sierer I have same problem

I have the same problem ...do you found some solution??

No ugh

+Bill Sierer the same issue with mine - no further menu (just s1 to s4) with three digits only ;(

Sigh

The only reason your REX C100 does this is because you've bought illegal Chinese-made ones. If you buy the real ones from RKC Instruments Inc. from Japan, you'll see you will not have these problems. You can buy real ones here for instance: www.cascade.net/controllers

@@ingridmeijer1578 lol those are probably $600 a pop

@@joblessalex Well they are not that expensive.. I use crydom Solid state relays. And also make sure that you have them connected to a good heat sink Solid state relays. And also make sure that you have them connected to a good heat sink . If not they will melt on you

Just use a thermal fuse on the mains.

I think you would need to find some sort of spec sheet and come up with some sort of interface. None of the output are any kind of serial output. What exactly are you trying to do? Until I found these PID devices I had planed to make an Arduino based temp controller.

There is no way to communicate with this device so building an interface is not possible or practical. You need to start with a temperature controller that has a built in serial interface such as an Altec PC410 which is available on ebay for < $60. That is about the cheapest I've seen. Otherwise you'll be in the 100s of dollars range. You can incorporate the PID control right in the Arduino, which there are lots of sketches available, but you then need an analog input capable of connecting to a thermocouple which is not an easy task. Some thoughts to consider....

To interface a k type thermocouple to an arduino you just need the right interface module. Adafruit has 3 different ones and the sketches to support them . I was going down this route until I saw how easy it was to use a PID and bought a cheap one from China. I've already tried using it in my smoker but the SSR i have only works for AC loads. Its the same one in this video and I'm still not sure how it works here. Everything I have read said it can't work and mine also didn't work exactly how they explained it wouldn't. It doesn't turn off the SSR. It has to do with the components in the SSR. One other change is I'm not sure how well that style thermocouple would work in air. It think its a contact one and is best used for things like pots with liquid.

I'm confused by your comment about your smoker and the fact that the SSR is for AC loads. Your smoker is an AC load so an SSR will control the heating element just fine. What did you read that said it can't work? Provide a link if you can. Is your C100 the model with a "V" as the 'first control output' and then you are connecting the SSR directly to the C100? Or, is it an "M" and you've modified it to use the internal DC power supply or an external supply through the relay contacts to drive the SSR? Is the output LED on the C100 going off but the SSR does not? If yes, you probably have a bad SSR. Measure the voltage across the DC side of the SSR when the control is on and then off. Does it change? Does the LED on the SSR change with it? If yes, SSR is bad. If not, it's the C100. If it's the C100, I'd verify you have a "K" model that takes a thermocouple and that it's wired to terminals 9 (blue) and 10(red). Next I'd verify your SL1 setting is all 0's for a type K. Finally, the thermocouple will work fine in air. The only difference between the two(air vs liquid), involves some time constants in the PID algorithm. For a smoker, which is a slow responding system, it won't make a difference.

I guess this was for me but I'm using a 12v dc fan to control the air going into my charcoal smoker, not electric. Same as the creator of this video. Based on this video I assumed my AC SSR would also work with DC. Well it didn't and I now know why. I have since then bought a DC SSR and the system worked great to keep my smoker at 107 C. My main issue is that the PID I got from Banggood doesn't have a good manual and I can't find one online. Good thing it worked right out of the box. I did also get a bigger longer Thermocouple that I think was much more sensitive than the stubby one in the kit. I think the stubby one is for direct contact to a heating vessel. I'll check to see if the stubby one works as well. Just glad it worked as well as it did.

The blinking is caused by the camera.

@@rpasco9352 First time I've ever heard someone say "shut on." Definitely makes you wonder, doesn't it?

I watched almost 4 minutes and then couldn't anymore. I should've known when he started calling it a "pit controller" and "pit relay"...