You DO NOT talk to much, to those of us thirsty (lol) for knowledge at least. Ive wanted to get into home brewing for years. Your videos have given me the confidence, that if I have a problem or question, I know exactly where to come. Thank you!!
Hi George! I run a PID to control my mashing temps for beer and making mash. I like the SCR for beer boil and for running the still. Both are built based upon your how-to videos. I run 240v with a 4500W element for both systems, and I'm very happy with the results.
Hi George. I finally got off my posterior and made one of these. Many thanks for your in-depth and informative videos! I doubt I could have done it without you. Happy distilling to you!
Like them? This is my master class on distillation.... I am thrilled. I have not yet run into an instructor throughout my 70 yrs of life that has given me so much knowledge on a topic as you have sir....and I am grateful
As always Awesome Vid George, i have just built my own 5 gal 2" column still and built my own PID using this controller, tested it on a pan of boiling water and worked pretty well, held it at boiling point for 30m mins so i am looking forward to hooking it up to my still for the first time,
Hi George, I just have to give you a big thumbs up for the educational tutorials you give to us. About the SLH mode, and SLL mode, in the advanced menu, this will be your (SL)Higher and (SL)Lower working mode, I ex : If u set your SLH to 200, and your SLL to 15, your PID will only let you operate from 15c - 200c on the PID :) Another nice thing to know, is that alot of the temperature-probes are way off, so use the offset function to correct them (in my case i had to do a -4c) Cheers and happy brewing Mister G.
Thx for the wonderful and informative vids, currently awaiting delivery of my pid, you're the best George, I've learned a lot watching your series, wanted to go into distilling sooner but some people intentionally spreads wrong information to scare off newbies, you gave me the confidence to start this hobby myself and i'm loving every minute of it, thank you once again all the way from Cape Town, South Africa
Thanks for working with us in Celsius’s. One advantage of that archaic Fahrenheit system is that you get twice the amount of accuracy. I’ve learned though, that the calculation is simple enough, double it and add 32 and even I’m dumb enough to calculate that in my head. Funny story, I got evicted (due to sale) last October, so moved house, and the old place got sold. So one day a few weeks ago, I was passing by and decided to check for any mail. I poke my head around the empty house for one last look at my man cave shed where I spent MANY hours watching your videos while I ran the still, and I’ll be buggered mate, but 2 trees had fallen down and made that shed into a metal pancake. I was annoyed that I had to move house, but either me and or my still would be flat if that hadn’t happened.
Bryan Naquin well, being from “the rest of the world”, Fahrenheit is only a mathS problem, so I did ask George a while ago to accomodate us in the “rest of the world” and I was thanking him for doing that. For Distillin, Celsius is actually better, although 1/2 as precise. You need to remember 60, 80 & 100. Or on a T500 you run your heads off at 42-45 until you’re satisfied, then keep the output water at 52-65 so you dial it in at 57 and it’ll fluctuate 3 up and down, and then suddenly the good juice stops, you take your precious jug into the house and dump the wash, reset for next Sunday.
George, this vid is a lifesaver - bought a REX and the instructions were a nightmare. Can you please go into a bit of detail how/why you chose your PID parameters? I am trying to use it for an egg incubator (37.5C setpoint)...and wondering if your settings are appropriate or defaults or other would be better? Thx in advance...!
Bravo et merci pour ton travail . STP Possible avec ce REX C100 , de faire des paliers d'arrêt de chauffe avant d'atteindre des hautes temperatures ? , Merci de tes réponses
Hi George, thanks for your excellent instructional videos. Will it have an influence on the functioning or accuracy of the thermocouple if I extend the cable length. Thank you
George, you are AMAZING! I don't know ANY other person on RU-vid that puts their email address AND phone number on their page! I keep rewatching your videos, especially the beginner series. I must be stupid, because I still can't figure out how to make beer, or other spirits,. NOT your fault, it's just you can kind of confuse me. You're so passionate about doing this it gets mind boggling. Especially when you try to explain the 120/240 vac PID stuff. DON'T stop, I'll catch up someday. Thanks again, for what you do! Jayman ...
Hey george. Im a beginner to distilling all the way from south africa. Where here in lockdown and not able to buy any dada yeast. I only have bread yeast. It works fine for my rum but wil it work for a sugar wash?
Hi George, Thanks for your explaination. at my application, i would like to heat up till my set point 180C (cut out) and stop heating it. i need to start heat up again when PV lower down to 170C(cut in). how should i configure.Please kindly guide me.thanks
Hi George Dennis here, I wanted to take the time to thank you for your time and experience , I learn something new with each video of your's I watch. I also have a question and that is could a cheep wine be used in place of a mash and if so would anything special need to be done to make it work ?
I can’t wait to follow along on your trip George. That’ll be fun! Are you planning a tutorial on the PID that you built up my controller with? Inkbird I believe it is.
I got one of these a few days ago. They must have updated it, as there is a choice of C/F scales. Also seems to be an autotune function. A friend is doing a translation - slowly, as he's no idea what it is.
Hello George. I have a question. What if I don't want the off pulse to be any shorter than 10 seconds? Can this be programmed? Imagine a gas valve, I wouldn't want it to turn on and off really fast.
Hi George, I`m new to this just starting out, I`m building a PID and want to know if i cant put a scr in between the PID and the element(4500w) so I don`t use the full 4500w as it might bet a bit too much for my wiring. Realy enjoying your video`s learning alot.
Hey George mike here I have a pot still and a conductive Digital hotplate just wondering if a PID controller would be good for my set up maybe you could help me out there
Ι fix the REX C100 in a coffee machine and worked very well for 2 years, suddenly, when my coffee machine was on, started 4 red flashing zero's on the top line , what does that mean??? now my coffe machine doesn't work and the rex c100 blinking with 4 red zero's on the top line.
Is Berm manufacture? I look for it but I can't see it but when I look for the rex c100, it have many manufactures but it's not print on it, they are all the same as you have on the video! what is the manufacture of the rex100 you have on the video? thanks
How can I desable the pulse mode and make Just turn off when the temperature arrive the set point? Ask you these, because I using a contactor tô switch on the boil resistance. Sorry about my bad English, Im from Brazil
Looking forward to George on the road ! Fast question, if I got a 0-400 degree thermocouple, that SLH mode at 17:11 showing 1300 is the one I got to set to 400 to get it properly working ??
Just make sure you set the controller to match the thermocouple type. The temp range is not the issue here it is the type. These come set for a K-type. Most users find these to be adequate.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Ok Thanks. I'm waiting for parts to come home so i can get startet. And yep, i'm starting with a cheap pid (siepem rex-c100) and a 10.000 watt scr regulator.
Hi, i have been watching your videos and I want to build my own still. I am struggling to find a suitable heating element and the correct fitting to weld into my barrel. Can u advise me please
George how would your rank inkbird, mypin, rex etc ? looking for relativity i.e is inkbird best, then mypin then Rex..is inkbird "2x" as good or maybe a scale from 1-100 score for each? I don't want to save $10 on the PID controller to have a batch fail and waste $100 or more!...etc..
So George explain to me what happens to the distillate flow when the element goes off? With my Rex C100 the distillate stops, then the SSR switches on and the distillate flows, then it switches of and the distillate stops. How can this be an effective control system? My SCR stays on and distillate flows continually, I simply dial in the power I want..
Hi Goerge new here im busy building a pot still for me. but im gone use a 20l urn its a 1600watt im looking to change the tempsensers on it on the bottom but it have 2 of them in a dry temp 1 that a KSD 301 135C and a KSD 301 92C to keep the urn warm at 92c.Will it work maybe if i change the KSD 301 92c with a KSD 301 125c on the urn to make a boiler out of it.Im not sure on what tempetuer my boiler must run can you mabey give me any help on it
Hi George, I'm a big fan of your channel from Timor-Leste! Please build a continuous Still for us? I would like to build one and tried to search at your channel but couldn't fine a continuous still "how to build"! Happy Distilling
G'day George.Im in Sydney, we have tank water only.Ive made 2 sugar washes.One using tank water but it stalls after one day.Other wash using store bought bottle water which is working fine.Do you know why tank water sugar wash stalls after one day.
Check pH should be around 7. If that is ok, there might be some mineral content or Chlorine that is affecting the yeast. I use only bottled water since it is safer.
You can allow any chlorine to dissipate on its own by leaving it in an open bucket over night. Ask any pool owner and they will tell you that chlorine doesn't want to be there. That's why we spend so much money on buckets of the stuff to add every other day or so. The PH can be adjusted using a fresh lemon. A few drops will drop the PH in a 20 liter bucket from 7 to 6.6-8 easily. A half lemon is the most I have ever used. George
Maybe try a temperature controller that supports RTD probes like a PT1000 if you are looking for 0.1°C resolution. K-type probes are better suited for high and wider temperature ranges but are less accurate. I would guess that 1°C accuracy is fine for this application, but I agree that being able to see the ΔT is useful. Great videos as always!
Got 160 litres of rum brewing,found out my city's water is ph 9.2! Need to run to the store to get lemons. Added 2 cans of lemonade to comp. Fermentation is fizzing away.
Has anyone had any luck hooking up an NTC thermistor? My REX-C100 works fine with the K type thermo couple and I can get it to run "backwards" with an NTC 10K thermistor. So heat up the thermistor and the temperature display goes down, not up. Hmmmm. Does it support an NTC or do I just need to get a PT100 sensor and be done with?
Anyone see these behave strangely with the PV value jumping all over as soon as the SSR starts cycling? I’ve tried several thermocouples and two different c100 controllers. The heating element can be plugged in or disconnected and the behavior continues.
Geo. I am More into the wet chemistry of fermentation rather than the nuts, bolts, mechanics, gear-head, thermo-dynamics and electronics of same. Guess I like the old moonshine technology
C. Ruf Depends on your application (income) but my T500 has run like clockwork since day 1, I plug it in, fill it up, and it gives me a gallon at 180pr. Every time. No PIDs, just the hourly check of the output water and she gives, consistently.
I think, that is a value you can set yourself. "LCY" is technically "LCK" means LOCK, you can fix values with that not to be able to modify later until you change this menu according to the manual. They describe 0000, 0001,0011,0111 values on the bottom of the page. You can set it to 1000 value to unlock the next menu manually.
Edit: Problem solved! If you have experienced the same issue I describe, just follow the instructions on homebrewtalk linked below. Big thanks to morse! ......I have used these PID-controllers for my garage-brewery. My main complaint is the behavior you demonstrate from 12:32 When setting a new SV the PV eg. my process measured temperature changes instantly. This is of course not happening. Also the controller does not show the correct PV (temperature) when it reaches the SV, it just freezes at the SV, but if you measure with an other thermometer is clearly overshoots. (I guess you can make that stop by changing the PID parameters, but you have to measure the SV by another thermometer to get a correct reading) In sum I don´t trust it. I took your advise and upgraded to Mypin controllers, they give a trustworthy temperature reading and works wonderfully after som tinkering with the PID parameters. Thank you for the great content you keep putting out, I have learnt so much and have gained a lot of confidence and will soon move on into the art of "refining" my beer :) Cheers and Skål! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dJBjcClEjNQ.html
Gudday sir. How about i will use for cooling sir, all i need is 16-17 C means, 16C below it will turn-off and if 17C up it will turn-on. I will use as a switch(i will pluge my refrigerator) for restoring my pig semen. Thank u and God bles
I bought one on aliexpress.com and on the picture, it was a Berme and they send me a good-y! it missing #3 and#8 screw in the back. when I try to go on Luck set up, it only goes to 100, it doesn't go to 1000 like yours! also, I can't set up like yours! Anyway!!! PS: DON'T BUY ON THIS SITE! CAUSE YOU'LL GET SCREW JUST LIKE ME!
your lock down is different to ours we can leave the house to get food, or to attend medical, nothing else or you gonna get your bum smacked, and serious depletion of the bank balance.
The lock down is starting to lift in most places in the states now. Mostly limited group sizing and still a need to social distance with face masks. George shouldn't have any worries. 😀
