Berryman's B12 Chemtool vs. oil conusmption Update | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 16 

I work on cars professionally for a living, and also have personal experience with these Corollas as my mom owned a Prizm variant since new for a better part of two decades. She ended up moving on for this same reason. We just felt it wasn't worth putting new rings, pistons, and reworking the block. I tried several oil treatments and flushes, and it does work *temporarily* the issue stems in more than just dirty or worn oil rings. It has a lot to do with worn compression rings and cylinder walls as well. What happens is the more miles you put on it, the more blow by escapes past the upper rings and bakes the oil in the control rings. So while initially the flush will clean out any debris, you will just develop new sediment as the fresh oil in the control rings is baked during combustion.

!Perform this treatment at your own risk! Previous video in the series: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EG70jHiT-S0.html Next video in the series: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e9tNXr0Ynm8.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

I did exactly what you did on my 2010 Audi A4 Avant. Before the berry man treatment, i’m adding 1 liter of oil every 200miles. After the BerryMan treatment, im at 1500miles and low oil alarm hasn’t pop up yet and dips stick level is right on the middle!

You are dedicated. Thanks for all the work it has taken you to share this with us all.

Again Dave, excellent update and series. Love your attention to detail and let's hope the next B12 treatment helps it even more.

Hi Dave - enoyed your recent couple of videos on the stuck piston rings. I'm dealing with a similar issue over on my channel with the Toyota 22RE and have been having some luck using B12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner as well (a product I have loved and used for many, many years). On my motor, I have a gauge to monitor crankcase blow-by pressures in real time while driving and this has helped me narrow down which methods have worked the best to help improve piston ring sealing. I wanted to share the approach I used, which has really worked well, in case you might find it helpful or worth trying also. Here is what I do: 1. Remove spark plugs, rotate motor 90 degrees past TDC so that all pistons are 1/2 down in cylinders 2. Pour 20-30 ml of B12 chemtool injector cleaner into each cylinder 3. Rock pistons up and down a little, wait 5 minutes 4. Re-install spark plugs finger tight 5. *Slowly* rotate motor 8 full revolutions using a ratchet on the crank damper bolt - taking each cylinder through several full compression strokes 6. Wait 15-20 minutes 7. Remove spark plugs and crank engine for 10 seconds using starter, thus drawing gasoline into cylinders to help wash cylinder walls B12 fuel injector cleaner is the best at dissolving carbon (based on my tests using different chemicals to dissolve carbon on top of spare pistons I have around the shop). It takes about 20-30 minutes usually. In the method outlined above, when you put the spark plugs back in and slowly take the motor through a number of full rotations, this forces cylinder compression down past the rings - and this also helps drawing the B12 down along with it. This should prove much more effective than just allowing the B12 to soak in the chambers alone. Obviously, you have to rotate the motor by hand, not with the starter, or you risk bending a rod, etc. due to the hydro-locking effect. However, in my experience, when rotating the motor by hand, without a lot of force, the compression (and also the B12) will slip pretty readily past the piston rings without damaging anything inside the motor. Also, after doing this, the B12 ends up in the motor oil; I leave the B12 in the oil for a while and also add a full can of B12 fuel injector cleaner to the gas - I think this combination continues to hit the rings from both directions (fuel and oil). When I used this method on my 22RE, I noticed a major reduction in blow-by gases after only about 50-60 miles. Using this method, as well as just B12 in the cylinders in general, has also reduce the amount of oil showing up on my spark plugs to almost zero now. If you decide to try it yourself, I would be interested to see the results you might see on your motor (if you haven't already tried using this "push the B12 down the pistons via compression" method yet).

Already ordering mine lol thanks for your huge collection of videos dedicated to this engine and subject because it really does affect a lot of them I've owned 3 corollas now all had this problem all around the same consumption as yours. I already know you'll do another round and keep us updated. Much appreciated from Australia ❤️ Edit. Each of the oil changes and treatments followed with full fresh oil and filter will be doing their detergent thing too so I feel super positive about this 😊

Dave as you know I have been following since the beginning of this series. I love that something appears to be working looking forward to the future videos and updates! Thank you so much for doing this as you can see from the other comments viewers definitely appreciate it.

Dunno if anyone else has pointed out the fact that you can still see the crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls, but that is from the honing process, and the fact that you can still see it indicates MINIMAL cylinder wear. If the barrymans treatment can release the oil rings on those pistons, that engine will likely last you the rest of your life.

After watching your video and the posts from others who have had positive results, I decided to try this on a 2004 Highlander 4WD that we gave to our daughter for a college car. We bought the car in 2006 with 24K on it and has had regular maintenance done during its life. It has the 2AZ engine and now has 277K on the odometer and used about a quart every 400 miles. Did like the video by removing the plugs, leveling the pistons, and pouring B12 in each cylinder. Rotating engine by rachet every few hours adding more B12 each time, but did this over 2 days instead of 24 hours. In the meantime, I cleaned the plugs, PCV valve, MAFF sensor, and blew out the air filter. Ended up using 2 cans B12 (30 oz) in the cylinders which most eventually soaked thru into the crankcase. Poured another can B12 into the gas tank. At the end of the 2 days, used rolled up shop towels in the spark plug holes to soak up what I could from the cylinders and then blew out the cylinders with compressed air. Replaced the plugs, coils, etc, and top off with oil. Took it a while to start and when it did, idled rough for about 8-10 seconds, then smoothed out. Never did get a check engine light. Went for a drive using second gear (auto tranny) for about 25 minutes maintaining 5000 rpm which is about 55 mph. Didn't want to push it any harder on this old engine. Then changed the oil & filter using Penzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w30 and zeroed the trip odometer. Now after the treatment, it ran 1509 miles before we had to add any oil. MUCH improvement!! Thanks for posting these videos or I would not have discovered this treatment.

Interesting update, looking forward for another treatment. Keep up the good work!

Yessss, excellent work. Love this series. This will need the Berrymans treatment at least two more times. Then always run seafoam in the engine oil to prevent this problem returning

That's really impressive. Good to know that something actually works, thanks for uploading. My 94 Accord is only burning a quart every 2000-2500 miles so I don't really feel the need to do anything about it, but I'm glad to know I have something worth trying if it ever got worse.

Subbed at the beginning of this journey. Your videos are exceptional. Love the channel.

I really enjoy your show and how thorough you are in this process and in reporting your impressions and findings. I've been following the whole series and love it. By the way. The pistons you refer to as "clean" is because carbon deposits cant stick to oily surfaces. When oil passes the piston rings and gets on the pistons, carbon cant stick to the piston because oil is slippery. So if a piston has carbon in the center and clean around the just the outer perimeter only a small amount of oil is passing by rings but if the whole piston is clean then a crap load of oil is passing the rings.

Thank you for making this berryman series, really great measuring and video editing for us Toyota viewers!!

Wow! Remember when it was just me commenting on your videos! Way to go Dave! Grow this channel 👍

Really enjoying this series. Looking forward to seeing how much it helps.

I followed this oil burning stuff since the beginning... This one is probable my favorite one! Makes me happy when I see fathers spending time with their children. And what a great results from B12. Simply amazing!

Dave thanks for the update on the Corolla. This week I passed 3,000 miles on my prism since I did the BG EPR flush. It's used 2 quarts in 3,000 miles. Before the flush it was using 1 quart every 1,200. If my calculation is right the BG EPR improved it to a quart every 1,500 miles. In other words no where near the improvement you saw with B12. I guess I'll have to try the B12 in my engine. Also I agree with your assessment that the space between the dots is more like 1 1/4 quarts. Thanks again for sharing all of this with us.

"BG dynamic engine restoration" is normally a product only available to dealers but there is one seller on Amazon that sells the kit. It's $320 so it's not cheap. It will make that engine like new. Not only will it unstick the oil control rings it will clean the vvt system and every part of the engine that oil touches. I know a lot of people call these products snake oil and it's for good reason. I've used BG's products and they are legit. That $320 kit has saved several condemned engines for me. Run it through and scope it. Not just the cylinders but inside the rocker cover and anywhere else you can fit that scope. Do a before and after. You will be impressed.

Can't wait for your next update! I have an 11 rav4 that just started using roughly 1.25 qts every 4000, hoping I can fix the problem before it progresses! Keep up the excellent work sir 👏

Thanks for the update. I followed this method on my 09prius but I didn't run the car with the B12 in the crankcase. Oil consumption has been reduced from 0.75qt/1k mi to

Another great video DIY Dave. I love your attention to detail, and also your effort sticking with the scientific method for testing the different variables. I am really looking forward to seeing what another B12 spark plug hole and crankcase treatment does for this motor. Might I suggest something? I would also add another step into your spark plug hole B12 fluid addition (What if you used a wooden dowel through the spark plug hole, and while the B12 liquid is in the cylinder bore, hold dowel rod against piston top, and tap the opposite end of the dowel rod lightly several times with a hammer.) Please keep up the good videos!

Big difference after treatment! I'm still doing further test on my as far as using different oils. I'm around 300miles to a half quart. On first oil change. Now using high mileage to see what the results are. Then may do another treatment soon. Keep the vids coming sir!

I wish I had found your videos a year ago. I was having terrible oil burning issues on my Isuzu Trooper and tried lots of things that didn't work before giving it a similar treatment with Seafoam and getting similar results. I should have done this first.

Your oil consumption video has helped so much.. 2014 passat 1.8l turbo... about a quarter of oil every 300 miles.. I tried 3 different engine oil flushes.. no change in oil consumption! I finally gave the Berryman b12 a try... I only used 1 can and let it soak for 48 hrs... and I only rocked the pistons up and down every 4 hrs... I refilled with Rotella t6... the first 800 miles, only down half a quart.. I am so happy with the results and never would have tried this.. thank you for your help and videos!

What you are doing is very similar to a Hyundai / Kia TSB that I read recently. I am dealing with a 2015 Forte that burns around a quart every 300 miles. In the TSB, the dealership is supposed to inject several ounces of a cleaning solvent into each cylinder with a syringe, through the spark plug hole. After letting it sit overnight, they draw the solvent out to prevent hydro lock, and fire up the engine. The next steps are to repeat the process, add more solvent, then pressurize each cylinder (valves closed) to force the solvent down past the rings, removing any remaining solvent from the cylinders. Then reinstall plugs, run engine, afterwards change oil and filter.

A car burning oil is probably a great vehicle for teaching someone to being mechanically responsible for a vehicle learning to check fluid and not just drive the vehicle into the ground

Really enjoyed the travelogue nature of the vid. Also looking forward to the end results.

Never tried the B12 Chemtool, but we do a lot of BG Engine flushes at the Honda dealership I'm at. So far the results are pretty positive. Definitely seems like you'll probably need one of the treatments that you add with the oil and run the engine for ~20-30 minutes at around 3000 RPM. The heat plus the additive seems to do a good job at busting stuck rings free. I will admit I was skeptical about such products and their claims, but the results speak for themselves. Of course the best remedy for most cars with engines prone to burning oil is to change the oil much sooner before it has the chance to start burning oil. Not really feasible on these old Corollas anymore unless you find an example with only 20-30,000 miles on it (there are plenty of people here near and inside of DC who go less than 2000 miles per year, so I actually see a lot of low mileage cars at the dealership), but it would work great at preventing it in newer cars where oil burning seems to be the norm rather than the exception. Avoid going over 5000 miles between oil changes unless you drive very frequently and you do almost entirely highway driving (if you only drive periodically or mostly on a city or at low speed, change it every year or 3000 miles, whichever comes first).

Something else you could give a whirl is Castrol Ultraclean motor oil. I have an old 94 Chevy K1500 with a 350SBC, kind of a pass down truck. Anyway it had really stuck rings with a similar oil consumption rate. Mostly due to Dad just topping off with DG brand oil for 10+ years and hardly ever changing it, since he didn't daily it. I ran Berrymans as an engine flush(dumped in/ran while hot)for 10 minutes and let it sit overnight. Ran it next morning for another 10, drained it. It's my standard new to me vehicle first oil change procedure. And put in the Ultraclean oil. Drove it about 800 miles before I parked it for other issues, but it didn't hardly burn any oil, that I could see on the stick anyway. Inside the valve covers continued to look MUCH better as I drove it. It was cakey at first. The ultraclean or a thin HDEO(like Motorcraft 10w30 Diesel oil) would help clean while you run it. I would dare say with my experience with Berrymans, is eventually what you are doing will definitely continue to get the consumption down using Berrymans alone. Try doing the next treatment with the engine hot aswell, it seems to do better anytime I do something like this when it's good and warm. I'd also try just working the crankshaft back and forth a 1/4 turn or so. Using a breaker bar as opposed to spinning around a few times. Less effort and probably better results I'd imagine if you can really shake'r. Love the videos by the way, very enjoyable to watch. Quiet, calm tone without a bunch of loud, flashy and exciting nothing. But not excessively slow and boring. Great job.

Just started 1st Berryman's treatment on my vibe just this morning. Yup, one pug had a ton of oil when I pulled them. Just like my mechanic told me. Said the Saturns used to have this issue too. I put some seafoam in my crankcase as well. Im sticking with Seafoam for the crankcase since Berryman's says like 10-12 min run time on the engine before oil change while the latter says 100-300 miles. Will do berryman's in the tank as well.

I believe that the Berryman helping is what is in the crankcase from getting past the piston rings when you added it. If you just added it to the oil and drove it for a bit and then changed the oil, it would be the same benefit. As I stated, add it just before changing the oil, and run it for a bit. Interesting in that there was oil on top of the pistons. I have never seen that before on a good running engine.

Spark plug gaskets on valve cover look to be leaking, thank you for the update!

My 2000 Corolla CE is nearing 296K miles and is using some oil. But a gallon is about $22 and lasts easily 1 month. I have not had a car payment in 15 years... But this is good to know and a good product to buy...

Couple of things ... Oil expands when it is up to temperature, so you're supposed to check it when it's hot. So, between the marks when it's hot is a quart/liter. It's a moot thing though because, as you said, you've used that as a gauge throughout the experiment. Second thing, I've got an '06 Prius that was burning about a quart every 1000 miles. I did the B12 treatment in the cylinder, but instead of the liquid cans for the fuel, I used the B12 out of the aerosol cans for cleaning carbs. Over roughly 24 hours I sprayed enough to cover the pistons with enough to give them a good 1/4" or so of liquid on top of each piston. I would recheck every few hours and top off as necessary to try to keep that level for the entire 24 hours. Once 24ish hours had elapsed, I blew out the remaining and changed the oil. It now burns roughly 1/2 a quart per 5000 miles. When I get the time, I plan on doing the treatment again to see if I can improve upon that. YMMV, but it seems to be the ticket to helping the issue. BTW, this has been full synthetic 5w30 since I've owned it.

Between the 2 dots is around 1.2L for me, I have 2SZ-FE (in a Toyota Vitz). Previously I had a diesel car (Citroen Xsara Turbo D) with its between dots was around 1.2L. These 2 cars have/had oil burning issues. One I fixed by having the engine rebuilt some 13 years ago (already sold the car), the consumption had reached so much that I was putting a litre of oil every 350KM! The Vitz is the one my dad is still driving and burns a litre of oil every 5000KM. By the way thank you for making these videos.

I worked as a tech at the dealer when these were new. We found a BG or Toyota induction service every 20K along with regular oil changes worked well on these. If not, the pistons came out.

Lol just like the critical part of a cell phone conversation, the signal will drop as if on que, just like a nail gun being repeatedly fired when recording a video 😋 gotta love it.

Finally been waiting for this episode

Great video! Check the egr valve for carbon deposits from oil burning causing your idle issue. My 95 Camry had similar issue. I took it off it was packed full of carbon. I cleaned it issue was resolved.

I did an abbreviated version of your treatment, Dave, at my last oil change. Preventative maintenance.

The outakes 😂 me every day at almost everything bud lol long as we trying it's progress not perfection haha 😉

That funky running during the first few minutes of driving is a dirty/clogged idle air control valve. It's right under the throttle body, two bolts hold it in, easy to clean with some carb cleaner and a tube brush or pipe cleaner. Also check your PCV valve as a stuck one can cause oil in the cylinders that will be burned. ..

This worked for me! Thanks for the video. My vw tiguan no longer burns oil. Its been 5 months and oil level is good.

I had throttle plate sticking on a Taurus years ago. Since then I've used Berryman's B12 in all of my cars. Problem now: I can not find Chem B12 in either of the two Walmarts stores near me!!! There is every variation of SeaFoam but no Chem B12. I'm glad this has worked for you. I could go to AutoZone and pay 50% more. They do have B12 but I don't want to pay their price.

You should re route the pcv line to a oil catch can, any oil blow by will go into the catch can instead of the cylinders, you’ll get less oil and gunk on the pistons and valves. Instead of burning it in the motor you can reuse the oil or discard it.

Loving these Corolla videos!

You can still see the cross hatches on the cylinder walls so its gotta be the rings or valve stem seals !

This is awesome! A lot of Subaru engines (mostly EJ253's) burn a lot of oil due to crusty piston rings. Only problem is that since they have horizontally opposed cylinders, I don't think you could get the same effect with using Berryman's B12.... Unless you put the engine sideways and did 2 cylinders at a time. Haha. Regardless, thank you for documenting this!!! Very useful info!

On my 4.2l Vortec I6 in an ‘06 Trailblazer I run Berryman’s B-12 Chemtool as a crankcase flush at every oil change. Using 5W40 full synthetic Shell Rotella T6, the oil remains perfectly clean for 3,000 miles! I run 6,000 mile oil change intervals making two 210-mile interstate trips per week, and put a bottle of Chemtool in the fuel every third tank (21 gallons) or so. Berryman’s B-12 Chemtool is great stuff!

Just curious if on the second Berryman soak you are going to do the recommended 10-15 minute crankcase warm up then drain the oil or do plan on driving it with the Berryman in the crankcase?

Dave did you ever do a compression test on the cylinders before and after treatment?

I noticed oil around the spark plug hole. Did that run in when plug removed?

for the weird engine revs after refilling, try cleaning your idle air control valve with carb cleaner.

For sure you have to replace the valve cover gasket - you have oil in the spark plugs tightening. If you also can leave a car for at least a week and after that start the engine. If you go with a lot of blue smoke you deffinitly have bad valve stem seals. I'm dealing same issue in Mazda's 2.0 FS engine I'm watcinkg your videos from time to time and have to admit you are dedicate as hel to make those tests! Great job!

Great videos. I started watching your channel on the first Berryman treatment. Great follow up. I am currently doing oil consumption test on brand new to me 2014 Honda CRV, 155500 miles but has had decent oil changes based on Carfax. Did oil change with Penzoil Platinum high mileage and did Gumout fuel treatment at gas fill up. Yours is the best video for cheap ring decarbon. Thanks, awaiting next follow up.

The cylinder walls still look great with the cross hatching.

I would say it's the EVAP purge valve causing the wandering idle after fill up.

Thanks for documenting all this. I'm going through a similar issue with my wife's 2012 Volvo XC60. It has a known manufacturer defect in the oil rings which I believe is causing the same issue to the oil drains I believe. I've been doing seafoam treatments but going to give the B12 a shot. Unfortunately with the mileage now around 190k, Volvo won't do anything, even though they admitted it was a problem. Subscribed so I can see your next update!

great video Dave. keep us posted

Awesome results for the first treatment.

After all those chemicals, the 1ZZFE proved to be a solid engine. Attacked the deposits from all possible fronts.

We used to clean aircraft turbochargers with Berryman B12. Good stuff.

I wish you were doing MPG results at the same time of these experiments! I like these videos!

Good work dave, started following not quite long ago but went back to see all the videos in the series. I must say it's one of the most detailed and honest videos i have seen. Purely experience based. I Love DIY, But her in Nigeria, you have little little or no access to stuffs like berrryman, b12. The so called injector cleaners do nothing. I have a pontiac Vibe 05 that's started to burn oil, would love to experiment berryman b12. Before having to have the mechanics work on the piston rings( your car would most likely go from bad to worse for this here in Nigeria), i sold a 1999 camry for this. I wouldn't like to sell my Pontiac vibe just yet.

Okay I myself have used b12 for years. I also am a tech. I've learned old and new school. So that said here is an old school trick water!! Get a squirter bottle While engine running 2k-25hundred runs squirter down intake listening for engine to Bog down then stop and repeat several times do when engine is warm the shock of water breaks up all the carbon. Been doing it for years. Oh and it works. Also for glazed cylinders add Ajax (bonami) to mix. That trick is from GM it self original small blocks had cylinder glazing issues

This might be a good test for ATS 505CRO. I haven't used it but Scotty Kilmer swears by it. It was $25 for the bottle but now it looks like you have to purchase the 505CRF and 505CRO as a pair (CRF for fuel) and the price is now $65. Snake Oil? I do not know. Really enjoying you videos and have subscribed. We own a 2014 VW (2.0TSI) with only 40K miles and it is burning oil and exhaust tips are lined with soot. It was well-cared for based on the records we got with it as we bought it used. Not sure what is wrong with it but after-the-fact we read that the 2.0FSI/TSI are garbage engines. My Dad years ago, deceased now, used to only buy used cars. If he had an oil burner, he would change the oil and filter but also add Diesel fuel to the crankcase. I don't remember the ratio, however. He would then idle it for an hour or so IIRC then drain it out and it would often come out black like tar. Seemed to work well.

Dave, I enjoyed your videos of the experiment. As I mentioned before on your other video, I did the B12 pistons soak on the 2AZ-FE and the result was better than your result. Before the soaked, it burned 300-500 miles between the two dots. 1,000 miles after the soaked, it went down 29% between the dots. I soaked for 12 hrs with 4 cans and refilled/rotated whenever it drained out rather than do the 6 hrs interval. Also, I drained the oil first and soaked/drained the B12 at the same time. I just put in new oil when the B12 all drained out.

throttle position sensor can make the tac jump around like that. see if it continues after berrymans is out of tank. for reference, my cylinders are dry with carbon build-up on the crown. the engine loses oil, however that's due to the upper intake leaking. its capacity is 4.3 litres (6 cyl) but there's no way it goes through this much oil. that corolla is definitely shooting oil past the ring seal. blocked oil drain-back holes would increase compression significantly. It's also impossible for them to clog up with carbon, so the culprit would need to be varnish from the engine overheating. in my humble opinion you'd have timing issues before anything else. Your daughter complaining about it shaking suggests a fouled explosion (misfire) in the combustion chamber.

Maybe forgetting. The manual says that if at bottom dot to add a quart. It doesn’t say it’s a quart low. So when you add a quart at the bottom dot it puts you well back into the range and near the top dot without going over. So that makes sense.

It's great that your daughter can drive manual, I will teach my daughter to drive manual too when she's older.

I was amazed how long it took to start my 2009 Camry after the B-12 treatment. It was a crazy amount of smoke. I'm positive it improved oil consumption but I haven't driven enough to know how much. The engine hesitation has disappeared which is nice. I originally thought I was having a transmission problem. I'll update when I have more information.

In the first video there was oil pooled on top of the piston. The source of that oil is most likely the valve seals. You could be looking at worn valve guides and hard/worn seals.

Hi Dave - after your first video i tried this out myself, i had tried seafoam in the cylinders and it did nothing. my vehicle is a 2005 prius with 230k miles, burning about 1qt every 750 miles. I used ran an engine flush product and also used berrymans in the cylinders and rotated the engine by hand. oil use is now about .2 qt every 1000 miles! cant believe it actually worked. im still getting some blow by which seems to be worn rings, however the oil control rings seemed to have freed up

When a piston clean on the outer edges it is ring wash caused by the oil control ring being damaged or stuck. As long as the compression is good. I would say thats what was causing the oil on top.

My 2 cents - Berryman B-12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner in compression chamber: 1-drain all oil and with oil plug out put b12 in chamber & rotate compressed(up through the compression stroke or air pressururized w/ compression tester hose?) to be done with half combustion chamber size (25cc 2l engine) of b12, crank by hand with spark plug in place) collect the b12 that falls from the oil plug hole, do this to each cylinder a few times. 2-put all cylinders levelled midway and soak with b12 during night with spark plug in place. 3-next day rotate 5or6 times with 25cc b12 with spark plug in place every 5 hours. 4-Repeat step 1 at least once or every step all over again. 5-Put old oil back again run engine for 15min and then change oil and filter. Thoughts?

Dave if you haven’t done this yet I’d change the PCV valve. It’s about $15 and easy to replace. I’d also add Berryman to your gasoline

Where would you suggest getting a Makita ratchet wrench like yours?

Nice video. Got me wondering if any of those carbon chunks made their way into the exhaust and got hung up in the cats. Wanting to do this but also don't want to introduce more issues elsewhere. Not to mention, if the engines drinking oil and it's not ending up on the pavement it's most likely already being introduced into the cats (at least that's what I'm thinking) and have probably been caking up the relatively tight honeycomb like media. I guess if I decide to go ahead and try this I'll be sure to scope the cats before and after. Decisions, decisions. Again nice video.

I have my 99 corolla engine apart right now. after inspecting the piston rings, while you may loosen the rings up a bit i think it would be hard for any chemical to dissolve the 4 clogged drainback holes on each piston, i had to use a drill bit spun by hand. i then used a slightly larger bit by drill to enlarge slightly and hopefully keep it from happening again. you could be dealing with valve stem seals leaking as well not to mention the damage all of this is causing to the catalytic converter. that said, the only product i've used that actually seems to dissolve carbon is Berkebile 2+2 Instant Gum Cutter. i would spray a generous amount in the spark plug holes and leave overnight, start run repeat a few times. i do appreciate your videos as i had thought about doing similar things before i decided to tear into it.

I've been waiting for this video

Was engine restorer ever used? it helps with ring seal and compression in worn engines. didnt stop it completely but got my smoking way down on my 87 elcamino.

I just put some B-12 Chemtool in my cylinders, to see if it works for me too. I pulled and replaced the plugs, and noticed the 1st cylinder had excessive oil fowling. I swapped the coils, and now it won't start. I 'm going to buy some new coils and try again with the new plugs, coils, and B-12 in the cylinders, and oil. Thanks for the update.

Yeah, the idle fluctuations after refueling is likely a bad purge valve.

You can try water injection. Can also pull the head and oil pan, remove pistons, clean, drill additional oil drain holes in ring lands, and put back together. Also big rig companies do have one or 2 products for cleaning oil control rings but I don't remember the details.

From lower dip stick mark, you can add incremental amounts (i,e,. 2-4ox.) and measure level on dipstick. Then repeat until F mark is reached. Write everything down and you can now accurately correlate volume change with change in level position on dipstick.

Have you replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug well gaskets? I noticed some oil puddling at the bottom of where the spark plugs should seat? Well above the internal combustion chamber. I know this wouldn’t solve the oil consumption of the rings. Just something else I noticed.

My 99 camry 2.2l uses a bit of oil, but I'm religious about 5k mile oil changes so carbon doesn't build up in the first place. Now, I'm thinking about going from Pennzoil Synth made from Nat Gas to the new Valvoline made to clean your engine's carbon back to factory spec.

I just added some b12 into my 1981 truck I’m hoping it helps clear the carb and the rings. It doesn’t use much oil but it could improve. I’m hopeful in Kansas.

There was a video where a guy poured Berryman B12 slowly down the carburetor while keeping the engine running to unstick rings and stop oil consumption, but I can't find it.

Can’t wait for the next video

You may want to try pvc primer (purple) for a 2nd or 3rd round of ring soaking. It shares some of the solvents as b-12, but also has chemical found in BG EPR (109.)

I think the fuel adding is the tank valve reseating as muck can get in there. Just needs the seat cleaning on the tank intake vale.

You need a "Headlight Restore" video on this car!

I have a 1984 Mercedes 500SEL with the 5.0 MFI V8. It's been sitting since spring and I've only run it here and there backing it in and out of the garage to work on other issues. Car went from burning near zero oil to suddenly billowing clouds of semisweet oil smoke after a prolonged period of sitting. (This was immediately after a disassembly and inspection of the fuel distributor.) Upon removal of the spark plugs I discovered one cylinder on bank 1 and three on bank 2 are burning oil and running rich. I realize I need to inspect injectors and the FD again but the oil burn out of NOWHERE has be spellbound. Someone suggested stuck oil rings after multiple start/stops before reaching operating temperature and long sit time. I'm considering deep soaking the cylinders in B12 as seen here. Any suggestions? At this point I'm running out of ideas.

So I've work on a lot of different cas with similar problems. Most of the time if u have standing oil on the pistons your valve seals have failed and oil is running down the stems in the combustion chamber . This is also what happenes when u accelerate and once u let off you see plume of smoke also right after a start up.

Love these videos. Were any of the plugs wet when you pulled them? A bit hard to see, but when you were going into cylinder 1 it looked like there was oil around the spark plug hole. You may want to check the valve cover gasket, as if there’s oil in the plugs then that would run into the cylinder when you pull them out. Just a thought.

I had a grand Cherokee with a 4.7 that had stuck rings. I put a can of BG EPR in it and gave her the old Italian treatment. Highway pulls to the Rev limiter every time I drove it for weeks. It stopped using oil.