OKA FACTORY: www.oka-craft-tools.co.jp/en/ LEATHER CRAFT TOOLS: leathercrafttools.com/tools/s... All of my recommended lists are here: www.amazon.com/shop/leathertoolz
OKA FACTORY: www.oka-craft-tools.co.jp/en/ LEATHER CRAFT TOOLS: leathercrafttools.com/tools/setter/hammer/list/ All of my recommended lists are here: www.amazon.com/shop/leathertoolz
I use those vinyl stick-on floor tiles I covered my 2 meter long leather work table with. I take two of them 30 cm square and glue them together and put it on my granite block. It lasts about two years and costs about $4.
greetings from India, great advice and suggestions. however, we have been using the HDPE cutting board, with a piece of scrap leather as an interface, between the project material and the board. if the board is pierced, then the prick marks on the board are levelled off with a ball peen hammer and becomes good again. nevertheless the OKA board seems a good item to have in the "tool box/table".
What about the "beef tendon" type of cutting/punching board ? Have you ever tried it? I just ordered one from Owden leather tools. Thanks , from Canada.
Thanks for the video, I want to visit Japan one day to see their artistry. Would this wood-grain board work for hole punch tooling? I use an arbor press to punch holes in leather and the poly-board I've been using has developed divots/indentions/holes that cause the leather to slide and become off-centered when pressed. I need a firmer surface that wont also become punched and destroyed when I use the hole punch. Thanks! And I'm using punches with holes in the center, not a prick.
Hi Matt, how thick is the board you’re using? I’m using a thin ikea poly board on top of a mild steel plate with a 3 ton press and I’m wondering if there’s a better system
I have a similar hard rubber (vulcanized rubber?) board from Japan. I'm looking to get another, but I'd like to source in China. Might you know the name of the actual substance this board is made of?
Depends of where you are based. Here in Europe there are many independent stamp makers who advertise on Etsy; there are also many more overseas (even more overseas than us lol) like Hex & Hit in Thailand. Most stamp makers will need you to produce a high quality .pdf image of what you're looking for, others will need the same image converted to an Adobe Illustrator (.ai) vector file.
At leather for a few months now and by someone that has a leather shop for over 30 years told me to use veg tan and I dont see anything else replacing that.... to go 100% thru the leather makes it much easier to stitch... just save all your scraps in a side jar
Hi there, I'm just learning leatherwork and unfortunately its a bit limited here in New Zealand for access to leatherworking tools and products etc..Some of tools are available but a lot of the tools etc I see on RU-vid are just not available here. Do you have any issues with buying from Japan as far as things not turning up or lost in transit etc. I know Japanese products are usually very good quality but can be a bit pricey... would be keen to hear your thoughts Cheers, Mike..
The few times I've ordered stuff from Japan to canada, the shipping seemed to be faster than from US. The prices of some things are much cheaper in Japan, so the trade off of having to pay a bit more in shipping still works out in your favor.
I'm in the UK and have purchased a number of leatherworking products from Japan and Singapore (eg Crimson Hides products). I have never had anything go missing and am usually surprised how quickly things reach me. But I should stress that it is always worth paying a bit more for tracked/expedited shipping when you can.
The reply comments are very correct. Don't worry about missing ordering from Japan. They do proper job. Go little extra on shipping if you are worried as first time.
Nice, want one! How much shipping and extra fees or customs did you pay to get this delivered to Germany? (this or other orders arround 60€ on leathercrafttools for example) Sometimes with DHL it seems you pay twice the amount of your order...
Yo no hablo español puede utilizar el traductor de Google para inglés. el material es desconocido. Creo que es HDPE suave. es el secreto de la empresa, creo.
Not sayimg the board isnt good but the test isnt fair. One is used having cut marks all over it. Hence the marks on the leather. While the black one is new so havent been thru the work as the green one so definitely won't show
I never use a high density cutting board when laying down a stitch line. I use the soft Tandy poundo board which I have on top of my quartz slab. I am not interested in taking a risk and damaging my tools on a high density surface. Why are you punching a stitch line with the flesh side facing up?
High density will always be softer than steel. so, don't worry too much. but being extra careful like you will not hurt of course. if I glue two piece of leather before making pricking iron holes, then I need to lay down on the board to make pricking iron marks.
He was giving an example of marks that can be left on the skin side. More often than not you are punching through at least two pieces of leather. Sometime both sides that have been glued are skin sides.
I always cut/punch flesh side down, to compensate for the odd chance that the angle I'm cutting/punching art isn't right. Definitely don't want wobbly lines on the front of your piece
These guys from Oka factory are weird, they blocked me on Instagram. I commented that the pins did not look the same as the pictures. But it was just a comment.
Just got one of those but it's rubbish. It quickly became unusable after a couple minutes of hole punching and cutting. Yes, it will protect your tools, but it's too soft and every hole you punch will leave a crater. So you will need to iron it every couple minutes to keep it workable. I much prefer a cheap Ikea poly board over this!
