Best Car Scissor lift for home garage? unboxing and installation, modification and tweaks 

Thanks for watching, I’m glad it helped! :)

Thank you for watching! 🙂

Thanks for the tip, I’ll check grease on joints.

​@@AlfisGarage Hello, do you know how to set the lowering speed of the lift with a load?

@@seweryndymkowski5085 there is unfortunately just 1 setting for lowering speed - because the lift doesn’t know of there is load or not. If you set it slow while there is car on the lift, it will be really slow if the lift is empty. It is set by simple screw on the hydraulic pump that you loosen/tighten and it is regulating how fast the fluid can go thru that valve.

Thanks for watching! These seem to be fairly well made and hope they will work for years to come :)

Could dig a pit

Haha, I don’t doubt that :) we shall see how long it will hold!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! :)

Thanks for watching! :)

Thank you for watching! If you work on your cars, just go for it! :)

Szia Kristof, koszi a pozitiv visszajelzest! 😀

Thanks for watching!

Thank you for advice, I will check that 👍

Thanks for watching - not a silly question at all - I reckon I should have clarified that in the video. You can turn the lift around, but the engine needs to be at front part of the lift - there is even a warning sticker on the lift reminding of this. Reason for that is that the rear "legs" are moving towards the front when it is raised. Therefore cars which are front heavy (ie. most FWD cars) the weight needs to be at the leg which is not moving - otherwise in extreme situation, the car could fall off the lift. This is unlikely to happen as usually the weight difference between front and rear is not huge - but it is better to be safe than sorry :)

I have a simliar-ish lift and no where in any of the documentation does it say anything about the "engine end" of the lift. Does that mean you will not be able to reverse onto your lift?

@@jagster0810 well mine does have a sticker (nothing in documentation either). I'm not planning to reverse on the lift, although I think nothing would really happen. To me the sticker does make logic though even if probably it is "over-cautions" 🙂

Mine also does not say which way round😳

@@tonyford7987 fair enough - I’ll do a follow up video, will show the sticker. I think the concern applies to all scissor lifts

Thanks, indeed for my space this works fine :)

Thanks for watching! I bought it from a local eshop and the total was about 2500eur. Try to google KPN-3500 to see if there is any near you.

It has the igniter in the back, like a ball pen :)

Hi, this is Kupczyk KPN-3500. This one is "made in Poland" but I think it is just rebranded china lift. Indeed there are many types/models, so you need to check parameters and size on each one to find the one which fit your needs.

Thanks！

Thanks for watching! I bought it in local eshop - if you search for KPN-3500 you could find it. They are made in poland (or assembled in poland)

Thanks for watching! This is where I bought it from: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)

Can’t argue with that :)

You can do that too, but front of the car should be at the front of the lift due to cars are mostly front heavy and the rear section of the legs is moving towards the front when your raising the lift. Also I could extend the cable, but not the hydraulic hoses as I don’t have any means to do that.

I am sure if you import from china cable management should be a doodle

@@AlfisGarageYou still could've turned it around and parked your car reverse. that's unless something forbids you from doing that on the ceiling ofc. One of my car is rear heavy so turning it around could've worked for me anyway. For my SUV, I would have to park it reverse then.

@@ak-iy4yb if I park in reverse, drivers door would be at the wall and I couldn’t get out of the car 😃 This is the only way this would work for me. Others of course may have different situation 👍

@@AlfisGarage We all wish there was more than ample space in the garage. I feel you!

Hallo Marcus! Thank you for watching! I purchased thru local eshop: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

Yeah that’s true, I was considering the indepentent ones, but all of those are supposed to be secured to the floor, which I didn’t want to do. Surely they seem like good option too 👍

That's a good point, thankfully it's easy to change it back if ever needed 👍

I don't think he'll have to worry about that problem with a Tesla, that you mentioned. Only fools purchase Tesla "vehicles". And this man does not seem to me to be a fool.

@@johnsmith7676 haha :) I've got nothing against Tesla's, but don't see myself owning one in near future.

You can drive on to the lift from both sides but Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it. I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)

Thanks Alfie.

Scissor lifts are universal, made for front, mid, or rear engine cars.

@@xromeodelacruzx that is of course true 👍

That is correct, but the lift has front side which should be at the front of the car due to fact that most cars are front heavy. If I would turn it around I would have to reverse onto the lift. I’ll do a follow up video because the question was raised many times :)

Above all comfortable! 🤣

Good insight! Thanks! Maybe you have an issue with some seal in the pump?

​@@AlfisGarageI have life insurance...but I would be not working under that thing without a proper security bolt on lock system. Changing tires and some brakes job ok, but going underneath is a death wish for every person with common sense.

Not a stupid question at all!. There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)

Watch my follow up video where I explain turning it around was not a solution for me 👍

Sure I will! :)

Thanks for watching! This is where I bought it from: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

That's good to hear! Is there any resource online to get that confirmed?

I purchased from a local eshop in Slovakia: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

There is indeed front side of the lift and the front of car should be on the front of the lift, due to weight distribution and the way how legs are moving. I’ll do a follow up video as the question was raised many times :)

@@AlfisGarage Then just back the car in.

Mine looks very similar except mine are black and named Teclift, it is marked in instructions as you mentioned in comments, the cars heavy side ( front) must be on same side as lift cylinder. Ill do the same as you in video, thanks for the tip...

There is a screw/valve on the hydraulic pump that you either loosen or tighten to change how quickly the fluid flows. There is only 1 setting with or without load. If you set it slower while there is a load, it will be REALLY slow if there is no load.

In my case, when the car is on the lift and I want to lower it, it can be said that the car is falling and not lowering, I don't know where to look for the reason. Poland

@@seweryndymkowski5085 that was same for me :D look at my video at 5:50 you can see two “ screws” at the side of the pump - the black is a fitting for hydraulic - and behind it the silver screw is the valve. You need to tighten it a little bit - then test it.

I have one more question is there a sensor to make the lift slow down more before the end of lowering?

@@seweryndymkowski5085 no there is no such sensor and its not possible to do something like that on simple one way pumps like this.

Thanks for watching and for feedback 👍

I bought from local eshop: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

I bought it from local eshop - www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

@@AlfisGarage thank you

That would mean the lift would be backwards and you’re supposed to have the front of the car at the front of the lift, due to possible weight shift. I reckon that is unlikely to happen, but moving the hoses around wasn’t such a big task, so I rather did it to be on the safe side :)

Well most 2 post lifts that I’ve seen were about 2.8m tall so they would barely fit - but I wouldn’t be able to raise the car much higher anyway - when I raise my M5 to 1 meter with this I have about 30cm left 👍

It is pretty standard over here, all homes have 3 phase (400V) only smaller flats/apartments have usually 1 phase (230V)

@@AlfisGarage wowwww how far are we behind the world here in the UK

@@junebrooks665 BTW there are single phase versions of these lifts and they are usually even cheaper. I opted for 3 phase because my single phase breaker for garage is only 16A and the 2.2kW motor could trip that sometimes when starting (at least my compressor does)

Thanks for watching. That’s a valid point, I tested it with car and I think I left it somewhere around 1.5sec. I agree if it would be below 1 sec this could cause an issue. Having said that, the bottom tubes are synchronizers and should not allow one of the ramps go much lower than the other - but of course I never tested :) Have you experienced an issue like that?

Thanks for pointing out the timer. Never noticed it before and had some white knuckle moments hoping that the car wouldn't hit the ceiling before it went down. Going to make some adjustments. Thanks

Yes, it is from Poland, but I think it is rebranded chinese lift 😀 I’m happy to be corrected if this is actually built in Poland 👍

@@AlfisGarage The lift may be Polish, but the pump is Chinese

It is called KPN-3500

Agree and I actually did - I mentioned it in 17:45 of the video. It’s not rubber, but something similar and it really helps to keep the lift from moving around

No, this doesn't go that high :) I was sitting under the car. There are however also full height scissor lifts, underneath which you can stand

I bought it thru a local eshop: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

I bought it thru a local eshop: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

I agree about the warranty, it is a risk I’m willing to take. Yes, it must go up to release the locks, I understand the principle :)

@@AlfisGarage Could you not have turned everything 180 degree than the hoses and cables are on the other side.

@@antoinevandamme6506 you are correct, but the lift would be backwards and car should be at the front of the lift due to weight distribution. I’ll do a follow up video where I’ll explain as the same question was raised by many 👍

I hope I will never have to, but it should be doable :)

just add removable platform for center

I will do a review of the lift and its security features etc. Stay tuned! :)

The issue was that the hydraulics and cables were coming out between the two parking spots in the garage. I wanted them to come out at the wall side of the lift :)

I can sit underneath the car, while I would still need to lay on the floor under the quickjack.

Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it. I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)

Possibly yes, but if I’d turn the lift around, the front side would be at the door and I would have to backup onto the lift. The engine of the car should be at the front of the lift. Also the hose would be a bit too short to put the control panel the way I wanted.

Or turn it upside down 😂

@@micktheclick1 🤣that didn't cross my mind!

Great job.

Why not just move it to the opposite side of the garage, save yourself a headache 😂

Bonjour, of course you are correct - it is easier to work underneath a two-post lift, but that wouldn't fit in any usual home garage + I couldn't raise the car any higher anyway. Also two post lift takes up a lot more room. As you say, you could "dig a hole" but that is not an option for me :)

You can do that too, but front of the car should be at the front of the lift due to cars are mostly front heavy and the rear section of the legs is moving towards the front when your raising the lift.

I bought it from: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it. I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)

@@AlfisGarage Ok gotcha. Nice work with the transformation anyhow 🙂

There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)

The lift has a front side and the front of the car should be at the front of the lift due to weight distribution.

No, I paid about 2500 EUR and I think you can find them even cheaper. That's including taxes, shipping, etc. 4000$ should get you a Twin Busch or something similar.

Of course that would be the easiest, but I have a door to the house on that side, so it wouldn't be practical for me - and I simply wanted to have the lift exactly where it is :) BTW, changing over the lines was really simple.

I understand, thanks for the reply.@@AlfisGarage

I wish it would be that easy :) The lift has its front and back side - the way how the legs move, the front can handle more weight and that is why the front of the car should be on the front side of the lift. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift. BTW - it may seem a bigger struggle than it was, but I swapped the lines and cables in about an hour and half... and that was with filming.

There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)

Not that easy, because the lift has a front and rear side and the front is capable for more weight. Since most cars are front heavy, the car front needs to be at the front of the lift. I’m actually surprised how many people have raised this question. I’ll do a follow up video where I’ll try to explain.

There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)

Fair question, but depending on what goes wrong, cutting up the cables may or may not be related to the warranty claim. Also, i could still put everything back as it was - I didn’t do any irreversible changes.

I'm in Slovakia, most houses have 3 phase power supply and I think this is true for many countries in Europe :) Apartments/flats have usually 1 phase - but even for those you can request to have 3 phase installed.

@@AlfisGarage Interesting. It's 220 in UK and I don't think I've ever seen power adaptors for sale meant for Europe other than 220 or 240 (old UK domestic voltage) Google also seems to think that the voltage used throughout Europe has been harmonised at 230v since January 2003 (though it does state that it doesn't mean there has been a real change in the supply) Certainly in the UK 3 phase is only really found in commercial buildings such as garages/machine shops etc.

@@Nite-owl Of course we have 230V - that's the usual 1 phase voltage in any home :)... it was 220V in the past... but it has been standardized as you say to 230V now..... when you have 3 phases of 230V, across the phases you would measure 400V (in the past it was 380v)

Will try and improve on that ✌️

Because these lifts have front and rear side and the car front should be at front of the lift due to weight distribution and how the legs are moving. I’ll do a follow up video, as the question was asked many times, so stay tuned!

That’s a fair point, but it is certainly safer than jack stands and in my view safer than many other alternatives. The metal used is thick and as long as both safety locks are engaged, it is not going to collapse. 👍

Might be worth considering getting one then

@@paulnewman3406 you can always add additional layers of support/safety. I’ll share some of my ideas on additional safety options in a follow up video.

Excellent

Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it. I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)

There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)

I did, look at 17:45 👍

@@AlfisGarage Sorry didn't watch the whole thing.

I don’t know why it gets recommended 😂

@@AlfisGarage Ok, i was curious. Hope you the best with your chanel. Bye

No, actually not. The lift would be backwards.

That is fair and I would agree if it would rely only on hydraulics or electronics. However with mechanical locks, there is not much that can go wrong - the steel is thick and strong and I guess steel is a steel, regardless of where is it made :)

It depends, I didn’t do any irreversible changes, so I could put it back as it was + I didn’t do anything to any of the components or mechanics.

Fair enough 👍

Yeah, I totally get that. I watch videos on lifts to inspect other people's footwear as well.

Thanks for feedback. Any suggestion what to replace/ how to make it better?

In fact you don't know nothing about scissors lift

Ahoj, 2500eur

🤚i do 😀

@@AlfisGarageAre you insured ? ☹️

@@venenareligioest410 i am, but I still don’t want to die 🥹 I see your point and if safety would be only electronics or hydraulics, I wouldn’t trust it, but this has mechanical locks and steel is thick enough - so far it is working just fine :) I’m by no means saying everyone should buy one like this - there are surely better lifts available, but I’ve been looking at name brand lifts and I didn’t see any added value.

This one should be to up 3500kg