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Best Competition Boulderer For Men (2008~2023) 

Geek Climber
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Check out AscentStats: bit.ly/ascents...
Note that the Elo is calculated per-event for this video (and interpolated between events). In the AscentStats website, the more robust "seasonal" Elo is shown instead.
Music: "The Home Stretch" by @HenkeTooRaw
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28 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 49   
@AscentStats
@AscentStats Год назад
The Elo rating system, which was originally designed for chess, has been adapted to measure climbers' skills in competition climbing. Think of it as a game between the climber and the boulder problem. Each boulder problem has an estimated Elo rating. The harder the problem, the higher its Elo rating. Climbers, on the other hand, have Elo ratings that can go up or down depending on how they perform. When a climber tackles a problem, it's like a match. If the climber completes the problem, their Elo rating goes up. The increase is bigger if the problem was a tough one with a high Elo rating. On the other hand, if the climber doesn't manage to finish the problem, their Elo rating will go down, more if the problem was easy. So over time, a climber's Elo rating becomes a reflection of their skill level and progress. The higher their rating, the better they've been at completing difficult boulder problems. It's like a scoreboard for tracking climbers' performance in the long run. However, just like any score or rating, it doesn't tell the whole story, as there are many factors affecting a climber's performance on any given day. It also doesn't measure accomplishment, since some climbers compete in many more events, and so can get more podiums, even though they have maybe a slightly lower skill than other competitors that compete less often. For more details see: ascentstats.com/ranking-pages/ranking-2023-men.html
@GeekClimber
@GeekClimber Год назад
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation!!
@KeatonBonner
@KeatonBonner Год назад
Well we know who would win the longest neck competition.
@ArchibaldVonSkip
@ArchibaldVonSkip Год назад
For anyone wondering, top was Tomoa @2970
@ThatLaggyNoob
@ThatLaggyNoob Год назад
Tomoa is scary good when he's at his best
@alexgalays910
@alexgalays910 Год назад
@@ThatLaggyNoob He really seems to lack confidence these days :(
@sco9114
@sco9114 Год назад
Medji Shalck is the the future beast of Bouldering
@randomyogi
@randomyogi Год назад
Very curious how ELO ratings can be attributed to climbers, can’t wait for the next video!
@tjklmnop
@tjklmnop Год назад
I was shocked to see Jakob Schubert in 2009! I had to look him up after and I had no idea he’s 32. Really cool to see competitors like him and Jain Kim crushing it competitively in their 30s.
@israelscrewface345
@israelscrewface345 Год назад
Is the middle guy in the thumbnail real? His neck is long, and I mean long
@HikeMoreWorryLess
@HikeMoreWorryLess Год назад
for the future, my 2 cents on sorato and toby
@radimm5936
@radimm5936 Год назад
I'm really rooting for Toby to dominate next half of a decade or so 😁
@AS-zd9hz
@AS-zd9hz Год назад
thanks dor the upload but could you change de color selection? quite confusing
@BigShelley
@BigShelley Год назад
I forgot about Rei Sugimoto. I really liked him. He stayed near the top of the pack for a crazy long time. I also like how Meichi just kept popping in and out from the bottom until he eventually stuck in 2023. He's so good... *sometimes*. He definitely seems to struggle with consistency, but this year was a huge step up for him.
@zachcouch8654
@zachcouch8654 Год назад
The thumbnail. Look ar the middle guy’s neck compared to the top guy.
@apolloventureful
@apolloventureful Год назад
Do the colors represent anything? Interesting to see how quickly Adam fell off the list completely after having been on top for such a long time.
@AscentStats
@AscentStats Год назад
He had a very bad last event (by his standards), but I wouldn't bet against him coming back :)
@GeekClimber
@GeekClimber Год назад
The color represents the country each athletes are from. One color was chosen from their flags.
@PotatoSalad11
@PotatoSalad11 Год назад
I guess it's because Adam does so few competitions now. He didn't do any world cups from 2016-2018. He did most of them in 2019, but then only two in 2021, none in 2022, and two in 2023.
@AscentStats
@AscentStats Год назад
@@PotatoSalad11 Adam Ondra fell off the list (to 12th) this year because he performed well below his level (especially in his final event), failing to top boulders which many other top competitors succeeded in topping. Elo is a measure of performance. Based on his recent performances there are 11 climbers that are climbing better this year.
@opiniononion
@opiniononion Год назад
Is it possible to include the country they are from?
@VieuxSquid
@VieuxSquid Год назад
The color of the strips is a color sampled from the athlete's nathional flag, so it is included
@opiniononion
@opiniononion Год назад
@@VieuxSquid So if I show you a random colour you can tell me which country it is?
@VieuxSquid
@VieuxSquid Год назад
@@opiniononion Now that I've seen the video, probably. But adding the country Olympic code on the strip would be useful.
@a-j.2002
@a-j.2002 Год назад
Just assume Japan lol
@r9bina525
@r9bina525 Год назад
There are distinctions between men and women in elo, not like in chess? I understand that they have different boulders, but it would be cool to see their differences in difficulty in the form of elo.
@lukeroy5676
@lukeroy5676 Год назад
This wouldn’t really work with the elo scale, since men and women compete in separate leagues, it would be hard to measure their success against eachother
@wolololer
@wolololer Год назад
funny 10 years ago, there was no asians in climbing, and now they dominate
@stephantom8237
@stephantom8237 Год назад
Hey uh what is ELO?
@MaacAbra
@MaacAbra Год назад
Elo ziom! 😉
@Mekhel
@Mekhel Год назад
Hi, is your channel hacked again?
@sujith3639
@sujith3639 Год назад
first comment
@sujith3639
@sujith3639 Год назад
first view
@henketooraw
@henketooraw Год назад
Honored to provide the music for these videos. Can't wait to see the full breakdown!
@GeekClimber
@GeekClimber Год назад
Thanks a lot for the great music!!
@TheValinov
@TheValinov Год назад
RIP David Lama
@hvanderwolk
@hvanderwolk Год назад
Maybe first explain what elo is..
@scottyhayden8
@scottyhayden8 Год назад
WTF IS ELO???
@M3Lucky
@M3Lucky Год назад
It's a chess rating system - Google it. I don't remember the specifics
@PotatoSalad11
@PotatoSalad11 Год назад
Elo is a rating system originally used in chess, but now applied to various sports and video games, for ranking competitors against one-another.
@leoingson
@leoingson Год назад
Something may be off, or ELO may be not the perfect presentation - Jan Hojer won overall in 2014, yet ELO scores him far off. IIRC same for Jule Wurm.
@leoingson
@leoingson Год назад
Jain Kim also seemed to got ranked too low. She was very consistent over many years AFAIR.
@finray8436
@finray8436 Год назад
​@@leoingson This video only ranked the men so I'm not surprised Jain Kim isn't seen here
@AscentStats
@AscentStats Год назад
This ranking is based on every boulder problem that a climber competes on and keeps all competitors in the ranking even during events they didn’t compete in, as long as they do compete again later. The aim is to track who is the best competition climber at any one time, even if they aren’t competing in every event. Competitors like Adam Ondra don’t compete in every event or even at all in some years, but when he does compete he is usually near the top. For example, in 2014 Adam Ondra topped 88.5% of the boulder problems he competed on, while Jan Hojer competed much more but only topped 72.5% of the boulder problems he competed on.
@leoingson
@leoingson Год назад
@@finray8436 Of course I meant the previous video, regarding Jain Kim :)
@leoingson
@leoingson Год назад
@@AscentStats Thanks for the explanation. Sounds like a useful metric. But why did Jan Hojer win then, overall?
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