Best Cordless Routers: Toolsday with RR Buildings 

I just finished building the handrail on my deck ru-vid.comUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z and used this great little router to clean up the top rail before the final sanding and stain. It was light weight but packed lots of power. Either size battery didn't seem to make it top heavy and I'm a 64 yr old women so I really appreciated how easy it was to use...................... CORDLESS only way to go !!

With Ryan's ru-vid.comUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan, I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!

Great information Kyle. Not being a woodworker, you should have used a UP spiral bit for the dados you made in the test. A up spiral clears the chips from the cut as they are pulled up towards the motor and out of the way. A DOWN spiral is pushing the chips away from the motor and into the work piece. If you are cutting all the way threw your material this is fine but if you are not it clogs the dado and causes more friction.

Particularly on rough cut timber, rub some candle wax on the base of the tool. The cut will go much easier/smoother. I always carry a candle in with my tools and use it on every tool that has friction on the timber in its operation.

Have used all three but have been using the DeWalt daily since last summer. Like it don’t love it. Hate the on/off (trim routers need a comfortable momentary paddle or trigger switch IMO NOT a click on click off. The DeWalt base plate is by far the most useful of the three and the DeWalt is also the most powerful (but then it’s half again bigger than the Makita - bigger motor. But the one cool thing that sets DeWalt totally apart - the $50 corded trim router plunge base fits the cordless router. That makes the DeWalt 10x more useful IMO.

I have 2 of the DeWalt routers and they impress me everytime i use them on projects

Never bring your router backwards through the cut like that. It can so easily climb/jump out of the dado and onto your other hand. I know your a pro Kyle, but this is just for the new guys watching... bonus tip: there is a time and place to use the router in the opposite direction----- when rounding over edges of hardwoods like cherry or walnut that have changing grain patterns and are likely to blow out. One light pass (backwards) with a firm grip and then one clean up pass in the typical cutting direction.... I just wouldn't recommend going backwards in any cut like a groove or dado

Nice comparison, thank you. I have the Makita, love it.

Its great to see you give your opinion and commentary throughout the review,so many reviewers just describe the product but don't give anything useful. Well done

I bought the Dewalt and I just use the micro-adjust to set the depth it’s faster than macro-adjusting and then clipping the base on. I also like the long part of the base it makes it seem more sturdy.

The Dewalt does have a micro adjust. It's the little yellow ring on the adjust ring

Hello Kyle, Thanks for the info. Just the push I needed to pick up some more Makita tools. I found the cordless planer and the router kit packaged for $94 which included a 3 1/4" cordless planer, battery and charger at $89 with $5 shipping. I cannot complain about their 18v system and hope they keep it going as I am heavily invested in that platform. For me it is handier to switch batteries than lug a humongous one around all day. Take care. Doug

Anyone else get abit nervous cutting 1” deep in oak with a questionable bit on a 1/4” shanks?

All my routers are set to speed 4 …. Never any burning and you’re can take your time and not rush .. and the turn out is beautiful

14:47 *MIKITA DEMO* 15:46 *DEWAULT DEMO* 16:47 *MILWAUKEE* 18:00 *MilWAukee* 19:19 *Dewault* 20:59 *Mikita* 23:36 *Mikita* 24:13 *dewault* 24:43 *Milwaukee*

Great video Kyle . I’m in the market for one of these . I was pretty excited when Milwaukee came out with theirs , prolly the one I go with since that’s my heaviest platform that I have in all of my platforms. Thanks for the comparison on all 3 models. Killer job as always bro 👊🏻💥👊🏻

Thanks for the comparison Kyle! 😃👍🏻👊🏻

I ran into the problem of putting a "too big" quarter round bit in my dewalt. Fixed it by bottoming out the base, putting in the bit, turning it on, then used the bit to "bore out" that too small hole in the plate :P

I have the Milwaukee and am very pleased with it. I love having a cordless because the dragging cord was always an annoyance and when your using a precision tool like a router that moment when a cord snags can cause errant cuts more so than most cutting tools. In just hoping they come out with a more powerful one soon so I can forever ditch the cord for heavy duty routing like mortising boxes stringers like the custom alternate tread stair case I made this past summer.

I read the title and thought wireless routers and was confused when we didnt get into in home networking... I feel cheated. Good video as always Kyle!

19:25 With the DeWalt test you are going the same direction (away from you) on both sides of the dado so you are climb cutting on one of the cuts. You can hear the squeal when you do the climb cut. Not sure but when it bit into the board twice and you said "yikes" it might of been a climb cut.

Another great vid. Thanks man. Specs are like stats and can be manipulated and so many conditions and variables to consider. When a battery runs down I think we alll just swap it out and keep going. Again good job.

You missed the little gauge on the Dewalt router. Right bellow the black adjustment ring is a thin yellow one. That thin yellow one spins freely to allow a 0 setting, then you turn the black ring until it lines up with the depth setting change needed. You also misspoke about removing the base from the Dewalt. No need to spin the ring to remove, just push side clips and slide off.

I ended up going with the Makita platform over Milwaukee when I was building my shop because they had the trim router and Milwaukee didn't. The only problem was the price point if you wanted to get several accessories. I ended up buying the corded version with all the accessories for a great price and then just the tool only on the cordless. So now I have two routers for less than buying the cordless and the accessories. I think for most people, once they're in a platform, they'll stick to it.

Hey Kyle, loved the video, once again thanks for what you do!!! Looking forward to a toolsday on the new Milwaukee framer. Thanks

Braking is a nice safety feature. I use my Makita in a router table, so braking is not an issue for my use. My 30+ year old 3hp beast of a Makita 1/2” collet corded plunge router could sure use that... it’s scary!

This is a good video if you're a beginner and you're trying to decide which cordless router to buy 👍 but also you get a feel at how each brand/company build and that way you get a better idea which company would suit your working style. That is, if you're trying to commit to one platform for all your tools

Kyle, You criticized the DeWalt for not having any micro depth adjustment graduations, or reference marks, to set specific, precise depths. --> "there's no dimensions on the tool itself". "So once you get set, let's say you want to go another sixteenth of an inch deeper in your dado cut" In fact the tool does have those markings on the adjustment ring itself. If you need to go a sixteenth inch deeper, just rotate the ring one sixteenth of an inch on the ring's graduation scale. That being said, I really enjoy your projects, and your ability to communicate the ins and outs of your business. You also produce quality video and audio in adverse construction (and convention hall ) environments. Keep up the good work. Al Palmiter

Safety-wise its always best to have the router stop rotating as quick as possible after you stop applying power to minimize injury. I know because a number of years ago I forgot one of my corded routers takes a few seconds to stop rotating and I clipped my leg and ripped both my jeans and leg. Not super bad, but very painful. You really should look at better bits.

Can’t speak for the others but the Makita brushless is brilliant.

You're "taller" joke cracked me up. Well executed.

Cool. A good rule of thumb: The larger the bit diameter, the lower the rpm should be. It's about keeping the speed of the cutting edges within the optimal range across bit diameters. Also, running larger bits too fast is dangerous.

Hello Kyle. Good review but I have a safety note. I know you said you don’t use a router much.... I have been using them for 40+ years. **** Never pull the router back toward your body. That is what is causing the router to jump. When you pull it back toward yourself that is called a climb cut and is very dangerous. And as you said you would definitely want the speed square clamped down when making a dado like you did in the review. With a handheld router you always go left to right and with a router table you go right to left. You can do a climb cut (right to left) with a handheld router using your round over bit going like a 1/64” maybe a 1/32” but you need to have your material clamped down and two hands on the router. Also just an FYI the DEWALT corded unit of the same size has a plunge base available for it that also fits the 20volt motor. Ron

Did this guy even look at the dewalt before he did this video? 🤔 All sweet routers you can't go wrong with any of them!

4:46 “I’m gonna take everything off.” [attention intensifies] lol Good video, man.

This video could be of great value if you edited it and pointed out all the dangerous router techniques you used... I respect you for acknowledging them in comments.

Been waiting on this one!

Kyle, did you ever do a video on the hydraulic impact drivers? I have heard you rave about how much quieter they are and less likely to strip bits. I'd love to hear/see more. Thanks!

Exactly what I was looking for, great review!

great review, comprehensive and articulate

Very helpful information. Thank you.

I typically work at a bench in a shop doing solid surface work. Cordless has changed my trim router game. I had and liked the ryobi cordless since 2006. I now use three of the cordless makita routers and two ryobi. Ryobi are only good for roundovers, and the makita can swing any bit that is reasonable for a trim router. the ryobi is not stiff enough so I only use them with bearing bits. To sum it up... I switch routers not bits, and I don't get tangled in any cords.

Dust collection with the Makita was a big selling feature for me -- it works great

Makita !! Routes out windows with 7/16’s like a mule !! Just as powerful as corded router ! Yes battery use is fast, but, no cords is impressive ! I can route out two 6’x 6’10”sliders, two 8050’s and two 6050’s on a 80’ wall with battery to spare.

I bought the Milwaukee because I'm heavily invested in both of their platforms (but not exclusively) because they have proven to me that they are the most innovative, well built and the responsive to any issues that inevitably occur. I used the router the last 2 days for building a enclosed stringer alternating stair case. It was not able to hog out the mortises for the treads and risers in the stringers as it over heated the motor while using a 3/4" straight cutting bit for that application. But today I milled the treads and used it with a 3/4" round over bit to round over both sides of 14 treads and it performed flawlessly! It's all about using any given tool properly for the tasks they are designed for. You wouldn't surf fish with a ultra light 5' spinning rod with only 5 lb test on it right?

Good video/review - although pushing a router into a fence when you're just manually holding that fence is absurdly dangerous! Should ideally never be pushing a power tool towards your fleshy bits lol - always 100% worth it to take the time to clamp or nail/screw your fence down so you can keep that other hand some place safe

Standard practice using routers: max 5mm depth of cut. You burn less bits and save limbs and tools.

I can't wait to buy my first router. Milwaukee for sure since I'm already on that platform. Looking to do some woodworking as a hobby

I love that you have concider that people have different battery platforms. Other RU-vidrs could learn from taht. I like "the hands on" and your gut feeling. great video.

HI Kyle: To start with most Woodworkers set the depth from the bottom of the router, not from some markings on the router. If I need two or three routers to do a operation I always use the same number of routers. I just can't get back to the same setting. Router Bits. For the last twenty five years or so I have only bought Whiteside or Freud Router bits. Yes, they cost more, but they are sharper and last longer. Whiteside router Bits are made in North Carolina.

Great review, thank you.

Great impartial review! I'm definitely team makita but not one company can be the best at everything so it's important to review equally. Just thinking at the bottom of the makita router, the black base plate seems removable. I'd like to see if I could make a plexiglass clear baseplate for it with a single square edge to copy the dewalt's design? That seems to be a well thought out baseplate from dewalt there.

Nice to see these back!!!! Now where’s your 2020 tool trailer video? What’s been removed versus what gets added is the most telling tool review you can do.

The numbers on the speed adjuster are just to let you know where you are on the scale. If there were no numbers you’d have to go to the lowest to establish where the start of the speed adjustment is.

Love these blenders 😃

The Makita gets pretty good reviews on Amazon. I do woodwork at home, so I'll most likely buy a corded router when I'm not using the router insert on my table saw.

Great Video Bro!!!!!!👍🏼 Thank you for the info......

I have used a Rigid cordless trim router in the new wood shop for last 3 years. Is does round over, bevel and cove light duty work. I never use it to plow rabbets or dados. A clamped full length straight edge would of proved a more safe and better demonstration. Light duty routers like these should cut a max of 1/4 inch per pass. The chatter is telling you to much and too fast.

I have the dewalt one love it

Thanks for sharing!

Great videos. Can’t fault them. What would I look for when choosing a router for cutting out windows and doors on 18mm OSB? As always a big fat 👍🏻 from me. 🇬🇧

@17:32 you're lucky to still have fingers, close call

I think the Makita is more compact and a lot less plasticky, gimmicky. Having a smaller base let's you get closer in, in a tight space. I also loved that Makita didn't abandon their 18V line; They have the 18V x2. I think Makita has superior motor technology, as well, although the others have come a long way. I've owned cordless sets in all three of these brands, although for the last 7 years or so, it's been exclusively Makita. They totally sold me with the X2 line, I bought the 10" miter saw and dumped my corded one, the track saw and the plunge router. I don't want 3 different brands of batteries and chargers and the Makita lineup is by far the best, IMO and all of their tools have been flawless. Just my .02 Great Video, as always, Kyle!

For a power hand tool I think vibration and smoothness through the material is pretty important

Toolsday is awesome !

I use makita tools and honestly they just feel smoother than anything else which in my opinion is the most you could want from a tool..less fatigue means more productivity

7:02, yes there is, is on the large black dial you turn.

Have fun'.! All the best

I think it was ryobi who had the first cordless trim router.Old blue one with ni cad run time sucked until lithium ion batteries came out .I did a ton of laminate and round overs on fence posts and stuff just died on me after 10yrs.

Upward spiral would work better with trench cuts as it brings the material up & out. A downward pushes the material down into the hole and is best if you’re plunging and cutting all the way through your work as the waste would then end up on the floor below. Good comparisons though, liking your work!

Cordless vacuums! Do they come with a dust bag? How much crap they can pick up? How long of a run time? Thank you for the great videos.

I personally like the Rigid Cordless 18 Volt Router. They have a lifetime warranty on their batteries. 😀

what about the skid steer mix and go cement mixer attachment 1 eterra , you do a lot of that. i thought its might come in useful . i don't know if this would be cost/time saver . maybe you could look into it...

i got a makita, where i work in uk somebody has got a milwakee, which is not bad but, someone has got bosch, i am not a fun of bosch at all but, the way you can handle it makes the most difference and it really feel great . ( 12volts )

I wish you would update this video and compare the Bosch, which is famous in the router world, and include the Ryobi because it’s inexpensive and may be appropriate for the homeowner.

Nice work 👍

Can you make a comparison on brushless jigsaws? Makita, Milwaukee & Dewalt. No-one had done it yet.

The Makita will work with all the corded accessories. Benefit!

My only complaint on all 3 of these which I have used the dewalt and I have the makita, but the dewalt is kind big in diameter. But other than that it's a smooth router just like the makita which is very smooth.

Useful video. Thx buddy

Like the Milwaukee, but wish it had the DeWalt base, as it’s my fav out of all 3 tools. Does the DeWalt base fit on the Milwaukee at all? But a person just needs to with the platform their in & what their most comfortable with. Great Toolsday Video, & liked your thoughts; especially about the bits.... Cheers✌🏼

Good job Kyle

The RPM is important for the type and diameter of the bit, and sometimes the type of wood. I build fine furniture, so I would tend to see the router differently than a Carpenter. If you needed to rip a piece of 5/4 decking, and need to put a radius back on it, or to round-over the nose of a stair tread, then toss it back on the truck till the next job, anyone of those routers would work. If you are working with Maple one day, Cutting dados into prefinished ply for a built-in on another, then adding an Ogee to a Cherry table on another - you would end up having more than a dozen routers like me. ( Don't tell the wife, she thinks I only have 10 ) At that point, HP, a 1/2 shank, bearing play and maintaining constant RPM start to make a difference. But - We are in different worlds, (and I'm not criticizing yours) - My Grandfather was a Carpenter all his life, he didn't own a power tool till he was 60. I wish he were still around to see how you work - he would be amazed. We built "jib arms", and used blocks and tackle to raise timers and trusses.

I was just researching cordless routers, Dewalt it is. Thanks!

Love the content.

Awesome Review Kyle, I just ordered the Dewalt 20V with a plunge base.

The dewalt “20V max” is an 18volt battery. In Europe they are just labelled as 18V because 20V max is misleading advertising. All the batteries at 20V when fully charged and under no load

The Makita manual will tell you the speed for the number on the adjustment wheel. 10k for 1, +5k for 2-5. Probably the others do too.

Not mentioned here but DeWalt's cordless router also fits with all accessories of their corded version. Meaning you can use the same base or plunge base. So if you already have the corded version and you want the cordless router in top, no need to buy all stuff again. Just the bare unit. How about Makita and Milwaukee? Are they also compatible with their corded counterparts?

I'm not an electrical engineer, but I have heard AvE reference the inductive load that happens when you stop a motor, that is spinning, too fast. So perhaps Makita wanted to take that load out of the tool altogether by letting the tool ramp or coast to a stop rather than stopping it abruptly. It may have been done with tool life in mind or perhaps they didn't want to spend the money to add in the protection in the motor circuit to defend against the surge that would happen when you stopped the motor quickly.

Just bought the Milwaukee like it a lot only problem is getting the bit in the collet I have to keep pulling it out to get the bit inserted.

Wow ..... just Wow. If any of my staff were seen to use a router in that way they would be made to attend refresher training sessions. You are not just incompetant, you are dangerous.

Routers aren't designed to make spring cuts. With a standard bit, they're climb cut only. Secondly, 1/4" routers are trim/laminate routers. Plunging a 1/4" diameter bit one inch deep is a good way to a) snap a bit, b) have the router kick back and cut the shit out of your self. You have the plunge base, use it for the designed function. I'll stick with my Bosch corded routers.

I wish you would review the battery converters. Where u can run Milwaukee tools with dewalt batteries. It would help if you one platform, but want the triple hammer...

The Makita looks the better tool with the additional bases, especially the plunge. Game changer. Cheaper than the other two by far.

Oh look at that, I was just shopping for a cordless router. Is my Alexa sending you suggestions? [always listening]

Just a couple of things I'd like to share. When routing 1" deep through the 2x4, giving the router to cut so deep in one pass is taxing to the router, giving the router too much work at one time. I'd think most experienced users of routers, if they had to route 1" deep, they would do it in several passes. Between each pass, clean out the wood chips/shavings between passes. It'll be a lot cleaner and your tool and battery will last longer. The other thing is about safety. At 21:35 after using the Makita, the router bit is still turning when you pull it out and you say something about it being a little dangerous. Actually, I think that's very dangerous. When working with power tools, it's best to let the tool come to a complete stop Before you move the tool or the work/wood that is still in contact with the tool. Don't count 100% on safety features built into tools.

Hey can ya do a video on battery adapters to run dewalts on milfaukee or makita and so on amazon has adapters for every variation just curious if they’re anygood?

I just flattened a 100yo butcher block with a Dewalt plug in router. It chewed away for hours pushing a 1.5 inch flattening big against hard maple. Didn't heat up or slow down. Dewalt def makes some choocher tools.

You were using the wrong bit that is why it was packing the slot. You use a up spiral for slotting and a down spiral when going through the material.